Just received an email about Cypress PSOC for touch screen implementation. Haven't had time to check out their website yet, but his could be an interesting way to add a touchscreen to our prop SBC's (single board computer)
▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔ Links to other interesting threads:
I have just been doing a bit more research into the display (mine is 2.4").
The ILI9325 datasheet says it has a SPI mode. Steve, did you see if this exists??? It also states that when using an 8 bit bus use the upper data pins DB8-15. Since you connected to D0-7 and it works, I wonder if I have a different ILIxxxx driver chip.
BTW: My unit has a speaker.
▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔ Links to other interesting threads:
Yes, the DP151 LCD does have a SPI interface.
It would simplify a hack considerably, but will too slow for interesting graphics.
I've already been through a SPI LCD driver for Sparkfun's Nokia Knock-off [noparse]:)[/noparse]
See here www.youtube.com/watch?v=YalcMqkdHEU
Cool, you could draw eyes on the LCD and make it talk.
Wonder how vocal-track would sound saying "Hi honey! Feeling lucky?"
For those who don't mind the performance hit, I guess with just a few cuts, jumps, and a 2 pin female header,
you could have a Serial LCD + 3.3V USB rechargable battery for your Propeller project.
If there is any interest, I would be willing to develop the code and rework these devices for forum participants.
I have just been doing a bit more research into the display (mine is 2.4").
The ILI9325 datasheet says it has a SPI mode. Steve, did you see if this exists??? It also states that when using an 8 bit bus use the upper data pins DB8-15. Since you connected to D0-7 and it works, I wonder if I have a different ILIxxxx driver chip.
jazzed said...
For those who don't mind the performance hit, I guess with just a few cuts, jumps, and a 2 pin female header,
you could have a Serial LCD + 3.3V USB rechargable battery for your Propeller project.
If there is any interest, I would be willing to develop the code and rework these devices for forum participants.
I'm very interested in a SPI interface for the display. I've actually been following this thread closely and have purchased a DP151 for hacking. I just haven't had time to hookup a prop to it.
I'm very interested in a SPI interface for the display. I've actually been following this thread closely and have purchased a DP151 for hacking. I just haven't had time to hookup a prop to it.
Hi Harrison,
I'll take a break from my current fascinating project on Monday or Tuesday and see what I can do.
The header actually needs 4 pins for VDD(3.3V out for propeller power), VSS, CLK, and D0 ....
The easiest placement for the male/female header would be on the left side top near the battery connector.
Hopefully, I can come up with some easy rework instructions that my wife would happy to follow
Harrison or others who may be expecting some DP151 SPI connection results today:
I've identified 4 cuts and 4 jumps on the board to isolate the LCD from the AX206.
SCL and DI/DO cuts are pretty easy and are on the battery side of the board.
CS* cut is on the top side and may be moderately difficult.
The function select FS3 bit is on the top side right under the flex-cable and will be hard to cut.
The FS3 will need to be soldered to the adjacent FS1 (GND) on the LCD pins.
If FS3 (+3V but not VDD) is not cut completely the end result is unknown but may be destructive.
I'll do this rework on a unit this afternoon and start adding SPI code to my existing driver.
UPDATE: well I destroyed the LCD I'll start another one fresh first thing in the morning.
Progress UPDATE: I have the device connected in "9 bit serial SPI mode" but can't get it lit.
There are notes in the data-sheet about tying some parallel control pins to VDD and pulling up extra Dbits in SPI mode which I noticed after connecting the SPI pins, but it is unclear why that should be done. All I know is that when something like that shows up in a data-sheet, it's best to do it. Tomorrow I'll try that. Wish I had better news
jazzed said...
I was trying to get something else going. Now that is kind of settled, and I should get back to the SPI DP-151 code tomorrow.
What you're doing is totally awesome and will give everyone access to a super inexpensive color lcd display. I can't wait to replace these ugly 2x16 lcds with a nice little color screen.
Ok, I've tried everything I know to do on the SPI interface with no luck.
Here's what I think is happening: The LCD flex cable only provides for parallel interface selection.
The Varitronix LCD spec show the interface type bits as IF1,IF3 with the same values on each entry of the truth table.
The Tianma LCD spec (a clone) shows the same bits as IF1,IF2 and no truth table which would mean parallel only.
I suspect that there are type-o's in the Varitronix spec and the IF1,IF3 pins are actually IF1,IF2 pins.
So, what to do with your DP151s ?
1. Hack the Propeller into the DP151 parallel interface the way I did.
2. Hack the LCD to bring the parallel interface pins out to a header for connecting to a Propeller.
3. Wait for me to make a Propeller PCB to replace the DP151s original PCB.
4. Wait for me to make an add-on Propeller PCB.
5. Wait for me to make a breakout board for connecting the LCD to Propeller.
6. Other
Making a breakout board (5) would PCB would be pretty quick and force me to make a land-pattern for the LCD.
After I get that going, I could quickly make a replacement board (3) or some other Propeller based PCB.
Hi Steve
After looking at the pictures you posted, and comparing mine to yours, it appears that I have a different revision that is probably unworkable.
Mine has what I call a "drip chip", as you see in the attached photos it is chip epoxied right to the circuit board.
If you know what to do here, please let me know.
Thanks,
Doug
I am having trouble uploading the attachments. I keep getting resets.
So... I was at Bed Bath & Beyond and saw a decent looking 1.5" photo frame for $9.99 and decided to see if I could do like jazzed...
But, this one looks much more difficult to hack. I can't find any info on the LCD and the PCB is in the shape of a C with a big hole for the battery, which doesn't leave enough room for me to put in a Prop with just a 2-layer board...
But, I was so into it that I bought a Coby 1.5" and a Coby 1.8" off Amazon for ~$10 each. I saw a post that they're now on PCB revision#7, but I'm praying that they still have the same LCD module in there.
I'm going to try to replace the PCB with a custom one with a QFN prop and FTDI chip...
If I ever get it done, I'll have a nice unit that I can take on an airplane without looking like a terrorist...
Just got the Coby keychains...
Well, the LCD in the 1.5" one has changed, it's now a 1.44" version. But, I think I have a good datasheet from the same place. I'll have to see, but I'm thinking I can use a QFP Prop and FT232RL USB chip, which makes it easier for me to prototype with...
The 1.8" one is nicer but there's a lot of problems... The screw is hidden behind an epoxy front panel. This may make it difficult make look like new again. The LCD is glued directly to the PCB and is hard to remove in one piece. Also, I can't find a datasheet for the LCD. Still, the bigger screen might make it worth the pain dealing with this one...
Ok, I'll stay here for now then.
Looking back, I don't think you ever mentioned the LCD part number.
I suppose I thought it was the same as mentioned elsewhere on the web.
Anyway, here's a scan of the LCD part# label. Is this the same as yours was?
Either way, I think you're code will work because the controller is the same. I just peeked at your code and I think you used P0..P7 for data. That was my plan too since assembly code can be faster using those pins...
Updates:
1. Just figured out that the battery is charged directly by the USB 5V supply with just a 4.7 Ohm series resistor. I'm a little surprised that works. There appear to be places on the board for a more advanced charger, but they left it out... Actually, it looks like there's a Schottky diode (labelled SL) that drops the 5.0V to 4.7V before going to the 4.7 Ohm resistor.
2. There are 2 watch crystals. One is the standard 32.something kHz for time and the other appears to be 24MHz for the clock. I think I can use the clock crystal if I can fit in a DS1307 somewhere. I don't think I can use the 24Mhz crystal.
3. I think the smt part labelled 662K is a 3.3V LDO regulator, part number LY6206A33, but I can't find a datasheet.
4. I think the smt part labelled 2TY is a pnp transistor. One of them is used to supply power to the LED backlight. There's just a 10 Ohm resistor in series to limit the LED current.
5. I think the 3.0 voltage for the LCD is simply supplied using a Schottky diode to reduce the 3.3V supply. The diode is labelled S4 and is under the flex cable.
6. Not sure about the circuit with the transistor labelled J3Y. But, I think it's some kind of power on reset circuit.
Nice work Ray. It seems those keychains are over here in Oz for $10 now. I have the larger 2" or 2.5" one but didn't do anything with it. Cannot believe it was over a year ago.
I just got a few more red ones for under $10 with free shipping. I'm set on doing this now...
My circuit board thickness is a bit of a problem... The ExpressPCB board thickness is much more that this one. I'll have to replace the switches with lower profile ones to make it fit. But, I just looked at Digikey and I think I see something that will work...
Comments
▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
Links to other interesting threads:
· Home of the MultiBladeProps: TriBladeProp, RamBlade, TwinBlade,·SixBlade, website
· Single Board Computer:·3 Propeller ICs·and a·TriBladeProp board (ZiCog Z80 Emulator)
· Prop Tools under Development or Completed (Index)
· Emulators: Micros eg Altair, and Terminals eg VT100 (Index) ZiCog (Z80), MoCog (6809)
· Search the Propeller forums (via Google)
My cruising website is: ·www.bluemagic.biz·· MultiBladeProp is: www.bluemagic.biz/cluso.htm
The ILI9325 datasheet says it has a SPI mode. Steve, did you see if this exists??? It also states that when using an 8 bit bus use the upper data pins DB8-15. Since you connected to D0-7 and it works, I wonder if I have a different ILIxxxx driver chip.
BTW: My unit has a speaker.
▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
Links to other interesting threads:
· Home of the MultiBladeProps: TriBladeProp, RamBlade, TwinBlade,·SixBlade, website
· Single Board Computer:·3 Propeller ICs·and a·TriBladeProp board (ZiCog Z80 Emulator)
· Prop Tools under Development or Completed (Index)
· Emulators: Micros eg Altair, and Terminals eg VT100 (Index) ZiCog (Z80), MoCog (6809)
· Search the Propeller forums (via Google)
My cruising website is: ·www.bluemagic.biz·· MultiBladeProp is: www.bluemagic.biz/cluso.htm
It would simplify a hack considerably, but will too slow for interesting graphics.
I've already been through a SPI LCD driver for Sparkfun's Nokia Knock-off [noparse]:)[/noparse]
See here www.youtube.com/watch?v=YalcMqkdHEU
Cool, you could draw eyes on the LCD and make it talk.
Wonder how vocal-track would sound saying "Hi honey! Feeling lucky?"
▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
--Steve
Propalyzer: Propeller PC Logic Analyzer
http://forums.parallax.com/showthread.php?p=788230
you could have a Serial LCD + 3.3V USB rechargable battery for your Propeller project.
If there is any interest, I would be willing to develop the code and rework these devices for forum participants.
▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
--Steve
Propalyzer: Propeller PC Logic Analyzer
http://forums.parallax.com/showthread.php?p=788230
▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
Links to other interesting threads:
· Home of the MultiBladeProps: TriBladeProp, RamBlade, TwinBlade,·SixBlade, website
· Single Board Computer:·3 Propeller ICs·and a·TriBladeProp board (ZiCog Z80 Emulator)
· Prop Tools under Development or Completed (Index)
· Emulators: Micros eg Altair, and Terminals eg VT100 (Index) ZiCog (Z80), MoCog (6809)
· Search the Propeller forums (via Google)
My cruising website is: ·www.bluemagic.biz·· MultiBladeProp is: www.bluemagic.biz/cluso.htm
Thanks.
▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
Links to other interesting threads:
· Home of the MultiBladeProps: TriBladeProp, RamBlade, TwinBlade,·SixBlade, website
· Single Board Computer:·3 Propeller ICs·and a·TriBladeProp board (ZiCog Z80 Emulator)
· Prop Tools under Development or Completed (Index)
· Emulators: Micros eg Altair, and Terminals eg VT100 (Index) ZiCog (Z80), MoCog (6809)
· Search the Propeller forums (via Google)
My cruising website is: ·www.bluemagic.biz·· MultiBladeProp is: www.bluemagic.biz/cluso.htm
Microtrackball like in a blackberry... Not sure if requires other parts but nice...
http://www.sparkfun.com/commerce/product_info.php?products_id=9308
I'm very interested in a SPI interface for the display. I've actually been following this thread closely and have purchased a DP151 for hacking. I just haven't had time to hookup a prop to it.
I'll take a break from my current fascinating project on Monday or Tuesday and see what I can do.
The header actually needs 4 pins for VDD(3.3V out for propeller power), VSS, CLK, and D0 ....
The easiest placement for the male/female header would be on the left side top near the battery connector.
Hopefully, I can come up with some easy rework instructions that my wife would happy to follow
▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
--Steve
Propalyzer: Propeller PC Logic Analyzer
http://forums.parallax.com/showthread.php?p=788230
I've identified 4 cuts and 4 jumps on the board to isolate the LCD from the AX206.
SCL and DI/DO cuts are pretty easy and are on the battery side of the board.
CS* cut is on the top side and may be moderately difficult.
The function select FS3 bit is on the top side right under the flex-cable and will be hard to cut.
The FS3 will need to be soldered to the adjacent FS1 (GND) on the LCD pins.
If FS3 (+3V but not VDD) is not cut completely the end result is unknown but may be destructive.
I'll do this rework on a unit this afternoon and start adding SPI code to my existing driver.
UPDATE: well I destroyed the LCD
▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
--Steve
Propalyzer: Propeller PC Logic Analyzer
http://forums.parallax.com/showthread.php?p=788230
Post Edited (jazzed) : 8/5/2009 12:50:41 AM GMT
There are notes in the data-sheet about tying some parallel control pins to VDD and pulling up extra Dbits in SPI mode which I noticed after connecting the SPI pins, but it is unclear why that should be done. All I know is that when something like that shows up in a data-sheet, it's best to do it. Tomorrow I'll try that. Wish I had better news
▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
--Steve
Propalyzer: Propeller PC Logic Analyzer
http://forums.parallax.com/showthread.php?p=788230
▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
Links to other interesting threads:
· Home of the MultiBladeProps: TriBladeProp, RamBlade, TwinBlade,·SixBlade, website
· Single Board Computer:·3 Propeller ICs·and a·TriBladeProp board (ZiCog Z80 Emulator)
· Prop Tools under Development or Completed (Index)
· Emulators: Micros eg Altair, and Terminals eg VT100 (Index) ZiCog (Z80), MoCog (6809)
· Search the Propeller forums (via Google)
My cruising website is: ·www.bluemagic.biz·· MultiBladeProp is: www.bluemagic.biz/cluso.htm
Thanks,
Doug
I was trying to get something else going. Now that is kind of settled, and I should get back to the SPI DP-151 code tomorrow.
▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
--Steve
Propalyzer: Propeller PC Logic Analyzer
http://forums.parallax.com/showthread.php?p=788230
Here's what I think is happening: The LCD flex cable only provides for parallel interface selection.
The Varitronix LCD spec show the interface type bits as IF1,IF3 with the same values on each entry of the truth table.
The Tianma LCD spec (a clone) shows the same bits as IF1,IF2 and no truth table which would mean parallel only.
I suspect that there are type-o's in the Varitronix spec and the IF1,IF3 pins are actually IF1,IF2 pins.
So, what to do with your DP151s ?
1. Hack the Propeller into the DP151 parallel interface the way I did.
2. Hack the LCD to bring the parallel interface pins out to a header for connecting to a Propeller.
3. Wait for me to make a Propeller PCB to replace the DP151s original PCB.
4. Wait for me to make an add-on Propeller PCB.
5. Wait for me to make a breakout board for connecting the LCD to Propeller.
6. Other
Making a breakout board (5) would PCB would be pretty quick and force me to make a land-pattern for the LCD.
After I get that going, I could quickly make a replacement board (3) or some other Propeller based PCB.
Let me know what you would like to see.
TIA
▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
--Steve
Propalyzer: Propeller PC Logic Analyzer
http://forums.parallax.com/showthread.php?p=788230
▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
Links to other interesting threads:
· Home of the MultiBladeProps: TriBladeProp, RamBlade, TwinBlade,·SixBlade, website
· Single Board Computer:·3 Propeller ICs·and a·TriBladeProp board (ZiCog Z80 Emulator)
· Prop Tools under Development or Completed (Index)
· Emulators: Micros eg Altair, and Terminals eg VT100 (Index) ZiCog (Z80), MoCog (6809)
· Search the Propeller forums (via Google)
My cruising website is: ·www.bluemagic.biz·· MultiBladeProp is: www.bluemagic.biz/cluso.htm
After looking at the pictures you posted, and comparing mine to yours, it appears that I have a different revision that is probably unworkable.
Mine has what I call a "drip chip", as you see in the attached photos it is chip epoxied right to the circuit board.
If you know what to do here, please let me know.
Thanks,
Doug
I am having trouble uploading the attachments. I keep getting resets.
Post Edited (hinv) : 8/9/2009 2:36:15 PM GMT
www.google.com/search?hl=en&rlz=1C1CHMQ_enUS308US312&q=dp+151+hack&aq=f&oq=&aqi=
▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
--Steve
Propalyzer: Propeller PC Logic Analyzer
http://forums.parallax.com/showthread.php?p=788230
But, this one looks much more difficult to hack. I can't find any info on the LCD and the PCB is in the shape of a C with a big hole for the battery, which doesn't leave enough room for me to put in a Prop with just a 2-layer board...
But, I was so into it that I bought a Coby 1.5" and a Coby 1.8" off Amazon for ~$10 each. I saw a post that they're now on PCB revision#7, but I'm praying that they still have the same LCD module in there.
I'm going to try to replace the PCB with a custom one with a QFN prop and FTDI chip...
If I ever get it done, I'll have a nice unit that I can take on an airplane without looking like a terrorist...
I've attached the latest code here for you. The code is pretty old and could use some optimizations and clean up. Pardon the mess.
Good luck on the plane. Just don't call it C5
For some reason I can't get BST to make a good .zip with the files. Here are the files uploaded separately.
Well, the LCD in the 1.5" one has changed, it's now a 1.44" version. But, I think I have a good datasheet from the same place. I'll have to see, but I'm thinking I can use a QFP Prop and FT232RL USB chip, which makes it easier for me to prototype with...
The 1.8" one is nicer but there's a lot of problems... The screw is hidden behind an epoxy front panel. This may make it difficult make look like new again. The LCD is glued directly to the PCB and is hard to remove in one piece. Also, I can't find a datasheet for the LCD. Still, the bigger screen might make it worth the pain dealing with this one...
Here are scans of the top and bottom of the board.
I think there are only minor changes to the one jazzed had before.
So far, it looks to be very easy, no show stoppers. The LCD wiring looks to match the datasheet I have for the -04 version.
I'll reuse a lot of parts, especially the 8 Mbit SPI flash chip, battery, usb connector and switches.
So, I suppose I should start a new thread so as not to offend...
I don't mind at all. Just give me a little credit for blazing the trail.
So how different is the LCD anyway? It looks identical to the ones I have.
Looking back, I don't think you ever mentioned the LCD part number.
I suppose I thought it was the same as mentioned elsewhere on the web.
Anyway, here's a scan of the LCD part# label. Is this the same as yours was?
Either way, I think you're code will work because the controller is the same. I just peeked at your code and I think you used P0..P7 for data. That was my plan too since assembly code can be faster using those pins...
Updates:
1. Just figured out that the battery is charged directly by the USB 5V supply with just a 4.7 Ohm series resistor. I'm a little surprised that works. There appear to be places on the board for a more advanced charger, but they left it out... Actually, it looks like there's a Schottky diode (labelled SL) that drops the 5.0V to 4.7V before going to the 4.7 Ohm resistor.
2. There are 2 watch crystals. One is the standard 32.something kHz for time and the other appears to be 24MHz for the clock. I think I can use the clock crystal if I can fit in a DS1307 somewhere. I don't think I can use the 24Mhz crystal.
3. I think the smt part labelled 662K is a 3.3V LDO regulator, part number LY6206A33, but I can't find a datasheet.
4. I think the smt part labelled 2TY is a pnp transistor. One of them is used to supply power to the LED backlight. There's just a 10 Ohm resistor in series to limit the LED current.
5. I think the 3.0 voltage for the LCD is simply supplied using a Schottky diode to reduce the 3.3V supply. The diode is labelled S4 and is under the flex cable.
6. Not sure about the circuit with the transistor labelled J3Y. But, I think it's some kind of power on reset circuit.
You'll enjoy these attachments. I've also included the controller, Flash, and AX203 docs.
My circuit board thickness is a bit of a problem... The ExpressPCB board thickness is much more that this one. I'll have to replace the switches with lower profile ones to make it fit. But, I just looked at Digikey and I think I see something that will work...