Brian - Sorry about the slow response. Been really busy and not on here very much. Ken was in China when I heard from him yesterday so he's not on here either. I still have some parts, but I don't think Ken has any more. We both did that first batch for everyone at a loss. I'm willing to keep supplying them for a little longer, but I'd like to at least break even on them. If you or anyone else wants some, just PM me and we'll work something out. In the mean time I'll figure out what the materials, bubble pack envelope, and postage would cost.
I'm finally getting back to finishing my ELEV-8 build and I now have a problem of where to mount the battery. I saw some pictures where people had put the battery under the PCB but my battery is too thick for that to work. Have people added longer standoffs? Is there a recommended place to mount the battery? I assume it should be in the center to avoid making the chassis off balance. Can it be mounted on the bottom? Any suggestions?
Well, I finally did it...broke a prop. Turns out that ornamental rocks and propellers don't get along well together. See attached pic. Note that the damage to the prop is fairly extensive (I highlighted the cracks in the prop with a fine-tip marker). Out of curiosity, I tried it to see if it would still fly in this condition and...it did. Not well, mind you, but controllable.
When I was first putting this thing together , I was very concerned about how finicky it might be relative to balance, prop tracking, vibration, etc. No more.
I'm having more ELEV-8 assembly trouble. First, I'm missing four 4-40 nylon insert lock nuts and none of the stores near me seem to have them. I may be able to resolve that tomorrow when a nearby hobby store is open but for the moment I've just used regular nuts in an effort to get to the testing phase of verifying that the motors turn in the correct directions. Unfortunately, I'm now blocked by the fact that the cables supplied with the ELEV-8 kit to connect the Hoverfly board with the receiver have square ends but the receiver I'm trying to use (Spektrum AR8000) seems to require cables that are rounded on one side. I suspect this is to prevent them from being plugged in backwards. Actually, on closer examination it looks like the connectors are too tall as well so they would have to be filed in that direction as well. Has anyone had any luck just filing off the cables supplied by Parallax to make them fit a receiver like this?
I didn't have to with these, but what you're describing is pretty common in general. Futaba makes their connectors with a little tab on one side that regularly needs to be filed or cut down to make them fit other receivers. It won't hurt anything as long as the connector inside is held well and still makes a good connection.
I also have an AR8000 and had the same problem. Somewhere in this thread (I think) was advice to gently round off the corners of the connectors with a file (I used a Dremel Tool). I did all of the connectors on both ends so they could be universally used. Works perfect.
I also have an AR8000 and had the same problem. Somewhere in this thread (I think) was advice to gently round off the corners of the connectors with a file (I used a Dremel Tool). I did all of the connectors on both ends so they could be universally used. Works perfect.
Okay, thanks for the advice (and Jason too). I'll get out my Dremel tool. The funny thing is that I wasn't able to find anywhere on the Spektrum site to order cables that actually fit their receivers.
Okay, thanks for the advice (and Jason too). I'll get out my Dremel tool. The funny thing is that I wasn't able to find anywhere on the Spektrum site to order cables that actually fit their receivers.
An easier way is to simply rub the edge of the cable on a piece of 240 grit sandpaper. At least that's the way I've done it - the whole process takes about 5 minutes.
Not sure why Spektrum has such a wonky fit in their receiver. What a hassle!
Unfortunately, I'm now blocked by the fact that the cables supplied with the ELEV-8 kit to connect the Hoverfly board with the receiver have square ends but the receiver I'm trying to use (Spektrum AR8000) seems to require cables that are rounded on one side. I suspect this is to prevent them from being plugged in backwards. Actually, on closer examination it looks like the connectors are too tall as well so they would have to be filed in that direction as well. Has anyone had any luck just filing off the cables supplied by Parallax to make them fit a receiver like this?
David- I ran into this as well. I filed them down to fit. Wasn't too difficult.
I wouldn't do it with the file or Dremel although it works. I'd opt for the sandpaper option like Ken suggested. I think you have much better control with that. As for what Ken called the "wonkey fit", just keep in mind that a little bit of a tight fit is a really good thing. It's nice to have something more than pins to keep that puppy from walking out during flight. If you have the Futaba type connectors that have the little indexing fin, I'd cut that off with wire cutters before I started sanding.
Hello,
Does anyone know what is the size of hex nut for mounting the propellers? I have ELEV-8 crash pack and I will use the nut from the crash pack but I would like to order more from McMaster-Carr. I am currently deployed to Kuwait and I just cannot run to a local hardware store.
Thank You,
Biz
I just measured those so I could order locking nuts from McMaster. They appear to be 5mm with a .8 pitch. If you go with the locking type, you probably want to stick with the nylon type since the aluminum threads wouldn't stand up well to the other types. The ones I'm going to order are at the top of this page: http://www.mcmaster.com/#metric-locknuts/=hlqxcw The specific ones I'm ordering are: # 94205A240 . Your other options can be found here: http://www.mcmaster.com/#metric-hex-nuts/=hlr20e
I assume I'm allowe to post this since my code will contain them and be open.
I have my flight code better than half ported (new pin assignments are all done, made multiple servo objects for new new pin banks, etc). I've successfully programmed the sport board, but haven't gotten debug output from it yet. I had to take last night off, but I'm hoping to get something running tonight. The physical connection order is a little odd - I'm guessing layout considerations drove the pin numbers, not coding ease.
Edit2 : Corrected a couple pin settings
Sorry to bump this ancient message but I'm working on verifying that my ELEV-8 kits is assembled correctly and it occurred to me that it would be handy to have a program that would run on the PC and let you spin up each motor one at a time to verify that they are all controlled by the correct ESC and that they are plugged into the right port on the HoverflySPORT and that they are spinning in the correct direction. One of the ESCs being on P31/30 makes that difficult though since those pins would have to be used to communicate back to the PC. Another question I have is whether the USB connection delivers enough power to run one of the motors. If not, is it acceptable to have the battery and the USB connection hooked up at the same time?
I've had my battery and USB connected at the same time with no issues, but I can't say for sure that it's "safe". My guess is that they won't interfere with each other, but that's just a guess. The USB connection isn't enough to power one of the motors. Spinning them at any speed probably needs a couple amps, and the USB connection delivers a max of 500ma if I'm not mistaken. I think max draw for a USB device is 100ma.
As for the P30/31 issue, my Sport code assumes that those aren't connected most of the time since it'd only be an octo setup that used them. If you're building an octo, you presumably know what you're doing anyway. Writing a test sequence to test each motor in sequence wouldn't be very hard.
I've had my battery and USB connected at the same time with no issues, but I can't say for sure that it's "safe". My guess is that they won't interfere with each other, but that's just a guess. The USB connection isn't enough to power one of the motors. Spinning them at any speed probably needs a couple amps, and the USB connection delivers a max of 500ma if I'm not mistaken. I think max draw for a USB device is 100ma.
As for the P30/31 issue, my Sport code assumes that those aren't connected most of the time since it'd only be an octo setup that used them. If you're building an octo, you presumably know what you're doing anyway. Writing a test sequence to test each motor in sequence wouldn't be very hard.
Thanks! I guess I was assuming that each motor took two pins and the the fourth motor would be pins P31/30. I forgot that the Hoverfly board could control more than four motors. I guess that means my motor test would work okay for the ELEV-8 and that's the only configuration I'm planning for now. Do you have a driver that will spin the motors?
David I just tested this with the Hoverfly Sport board. Download this program to the Sport board using the Propeller tool. Then before plugging in the quad's battery make sure your transmitter is on and the throttle is all the way down. Plug battery in, wait a couple of seconds and you will have throttle control of the motor(s) that is not commented out (ESC.set commands). To check each motor(s), uncomment the command for that motor(s). You can keep the USB cable hooked to the Sport board with the battery connected and if you start the Parallax serial terminal it will show the usec. output of each receiver channel. This uses the drivers Jason Dorie wrote for the Sport board. Be very carefull with the throttle control as you only want to give it just enough throttle to see it spin - NOT TO TAKE OFF.
David I just tested this with the Hoverfly Sport board. Download this program to the Sport board using the Propeller tool. Then before plugging in the quad's battery make sure your transmitter is on and the throttle is all the way down. Plug battery in, wait a couple of seconds and you will have throttle control of the motor(s) that is not commented out (ESC.set commands). To check each motor(s), uncomment the command for that motor(s). You can keep the USB cable hooked to the Sport board with the battery connected and if you start the Parallax serial terminal it will show the usec. output of each receiver channel. This uses the drivers Jason Dorie wrote for the Sport board. Be very carefull with the throttle control as you only want to give it just enough throttle to see it spin - NOT TO TAKE OFF.
After you are done checking things out you will need to run the Hoverfly firmware update client to restore Hoverfly's code.
Thanks! That was very helpful!
Here are my results:
1) FL CCW
2) FR CW
3) BR CCW
4) BL CW
I think that means that they are all connected correctly. That should be good news except that I was hoping two would be backwards or something since it would be easy to fix that! :-)
It's nice to know I don't have any wiring problems though. Thanks very much for your help!!!
David I had the wrong settings for the serial terminal display of the receiver channels, it is now corrected above so you can check if the rudder, aileron, and elevator channels are trimmed to as close to 1500 as you can get it.
David I had the wrong settings for the serial terminal display of the receiver channels, it is now corrected above so you can check if the rudder, aileron, and elevator channels are trimmed to as close to 1500 as you can get it.
Comments
Looks like - Right under the video is a GitHub link: https://github.com/orphu/ThurdKind
https://github.com/orphu/ThurdKind
Another perspective;
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AsATVCjmEaQ
Is there anymore standoffs available? i am building a second quad with an open board.
...Tiger
When I was first putting this thing together , I was very concerned about how finicky it might be relative to balance, prop tracking, vibration, etc. No more.
An easier way is to simply rub the edge of the cable on a piece of 240 grit sandpaper. At least that's the way I've done it - the whole process takes about 5 minutes.
Not sure why Spektrum has such a wonky fit in their receiver. What a hassle!
Ken Gracey
David- I ran into this as well. I filed them down to fit. Wasn't too difficult.
...Tiger
Does anyone know what is the size of hex nut for mounting the propellers? I have ELEV-8 crash pack and I will use the nut from the crash pack but I would like to order more from McMaster-Carr. I am currently deployed to Kuwait and I just cannot run to a local hardware store.
Thank You,
Biz
...Tiger
Thank You very much.
Biz
Sorry to bump this ancient message but I'm working on verifying that my ELEV-8 kits is assembled correctly and it occurred to me that it would be handy to have a program that would run on the PC and let you spin up each motor one at a time to verify that they are all controlled by the correct ESC and that they are plugged into the right port on the HoverflySPORT and that they are spinning in the correct direction. One of the ESCs being on P31/30 makes that difficult though since those pins would have to be used to communicate back to the PC. Another question I have is whether the USB connection delivers enough power to run one of the motors. If not, is it acceptable to have the battery and the USB connection hooked up at the same time?
As for the P30/31 issue, my Sport code assumes that those aren't connected most of the time since it'd only be an octo setup that used them. If you're building an octo, you presumably know what you're doing anyway.
Thanks,
David
Thanks! That was very helpful!
Here are my results:
1) FL CCW
2) FR CW
3) BR CCW
4) BL CW
I think that means that they are all connected correctly. That should be good news except that I was hoping two would be backwards or something since it would be easy to fix that! :-)
It's nice to know I don't have any wiring problems though. Thanks very much for your help!!!
Aileron 1500
Elevator 1500
Throttle 1000
Rudder 1500
Gear 1500
Flap 1500
Shouldn't these values change as I move the joysticks on the R/C transmitter?