P2-ES Board Support

24

Comments

  • VonSzarvas wrote: »
    there's a table describing the dip switches in the product guide- search 64000 on the Parallax shop.

    does that solve?

    Boy do I feel dumb. I don't know how I missed all the documentation on that page. Thanks!
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  • Peter JakackiPeter Jakacki Posts: 8,443
    edited 2019-01-06 - 08:48:48
    I have a couple of boot images for TAQOZ V1.1 that include VGA. Just grab the P2-ES or P2D2 version, trim the file name to _BOOT_P2.BIX and copy onto your card and the system will boot up in TAQOZ at 180MHz, 115200 baud, with VGA and PS/2 keyboard running (if you want to use them).
    P2 BOOT IMAGES

    V2.0 will have a lot more including assembler and disk utilities, so get used to using SD boot images.
    ----------------------------------------------------------------
      Parallax P2  .:.:--TAQOZ--:.:.  V2.0 'CHIP'      190104-2300
    ----------------------------------------------------------------
    TAQOZ# 
    

    BTW, TAQOZ is not involved in the boot process in the current ROM but I want TAQOZ to be invoked automatically in the new ROM if none of the other boot methods were successful.

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  • cool.

    Hopefully that explains things well enough; else please keep asking questions!

  • I have a couple of boot images for TAQOZ V1.1 that include VGA. Just grab the P2-ES or P2D2 version, trim the file name to _BOOT_P2.BIX and copy onto your card and the system will boot up in TAQOZ at 180MHz, 115200 baud, with VGA and PS/2 keyboard running (if you want to use them).
    P2 BOOT IMAGES

    V2.0 will have a lot more including assembler and disk utilities, so get used to using SD boot images.
    ----------------------------------------------------------------
      Parallax P2  .:.:--TAQOZ--:.:.  V2.0 'CHIP'      190104-2300
    ----------------------------------------------------------------
    TAQOZ# 
    

    BTW, TAQOZ is not involved in the boot process in the current ROM but I want TAQOZ to be invoked automatically in the new ROM if none of the other boot methods were successful.

    Thanks for posting this Peter. Won't have time for a few days to try it out tho - work tomorrow :(
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  • I have a couple of boot images for TAQOZ V1.1 that include VGA. Just grab the P2-ES or P2D2 version, trim the file name to _BOOT_P2.BIX and copy onto your card and the system will boot up in TAQOZ at 180MHz, 115200 baud, with VGA and PS/2 keyboard running (if you want to use them).
    P2 BOOT IMAGES

    V2.0 will have a lot more including assembler and disk utilities, so get used to using SD boot images.
    ----------------------------------------------------------------
      Parallax P2  .:.:--TAQOZ--:.:.  V2.0 'CHIP'      190104-2300
    ----------------------------------------------------------------
    TAQOZ# 
    

    BTW, TAQOZ is not involved in the boot process in the current ROM but I want TAQOZ to be invoked automatically in the new ROM if none of the other boot methods were successful.

    Tried the boot file for P2-ES. Seems to respond with SD only boot, (P59 ON). I get activity on PST and TeraTerm, but any baud-rate I try, it's unreadable. Is 115200 the default?
    Infernal Machine
  • [quote="Publison;c-1460436"
    Tried the boot file for P2-ES. Seems to respond with SD only boot, (P59 ON). I get activity on PST and TeraTerm, but any baud-rate I try, it's unreadable. Is 115200 the default?[/quote]

    Seems to work for me but just to be on the safe side I have copied some of my files from the actual SD card include _BOOT_P2.BIX into the P2-ES folder inside of the BOOT IMAGES folder.

    Tachyon Forth - compact, fast, forthwright and interactive
    useforthlogo-s.png
    --->CLICK THE LOGO for more links<---
    P2 +++++ TAQOZ INTRO & LINKS +++++ P2 SHORTFORM DATASHEET
    P1 +++++ Latest binary V5.4 includes EASYFILE +++++ Tachyon Forth News Blog
    Brisbane, Australia
  • Peter JakackiPeter Jakacki Posts: 8,443
    edited 2019-01-16 - 08:14:30
    Taking about board support this is about physical support, for the micro sd card itself since it sits about 0.5mm above the pcb and can snap if you push down while trying to withdraw it. On the P2D2 the card sits on the flash chip so it's not a problem so the simple solution is to place something thin enough under the card. I used glossy paper with double sided tape and now it slides in easy and i can simply push down and flick it out.
    2729 x 1441 - 534K

    Tachyon Forth - compact, fast, forthwright and interactive
    useforthlogo-s.png
    --->CLICK THE LOGO for more links<---
    P2 +++++ TAQOZ INTRO & LINKS +++++ P2 SHORTFORM DATASHEET
    P1 +++++ Latest binary V5.4 includes EASYFILE +++++ Tachyon Forth News Blog
    Brisbane, Australia
  • Can it really snap? Somebody should test that... I'd be interested to know if it does...
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  • potatoheadpotatohead Posts: 9,739
    edited 2019-01-16 - 16:30:50
    if it is cold, I bet it would. Lead free solder is surprisingly brittle below 15C
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  • You mean the connector, right? I though Peter was talking about the uSD snapping...
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  • You guys never snapped a uSD card? I'll post a photo later
  • Both. I have snapped both.
    Do not taunt Happy Fun Ball! @opengeekorg ---> Be Excellent To One Another SKYPE = acuity_doug
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  • Never snapped a uSD card, but have had the socket come off the pads.
    In science there is no authority. There is only experiment.
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  • kwinn wrote: »
    Never snapped a uSD card, but have had the socket come off the pads.
    If I snap my socket off the pads can I resolder it with lead-based solder?
  • I'd just reflow with hot air in that situation, its still going to be vulnerable with a purely SMT socket
    whatever you do, you need thru-hole sockets for physical strength. Glue a little plastic cover shield
    over the thing perhaps?
  • David Betz wrote: »
    kwinn wrote: »
    Never snapped a uSD card, but have had the socket come off the pads.
    If I snap my socket off the pads can I resolder it with lead-based solder?

    Leaded solder is what I have used, and had no problems with the re-soldering or or the sockets since.
    In science there is no authority. There is only experiment.
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  • kwinn wrote: »
    David Betz wrote: »
    kwinn wrote: »
    Never snapped a uSD card, but have had the socket come off the pads.
    If I snap my socket off the pads can I resolder it with lead-based solder?

    Leaded solder is what I have used, and had no problems with the re-soldering or or the sockets since.
    Thanks! I wasn't sure if the lead-free solder on the pads would interfere with the leaded solder.

  • All tin-based solders are going to work together, but unlikely to be eutectic by chance, so
    pastiness is expected.
  • I usually use ChipQuik to lower the temp of the lead free, and then Solderwick the old stuff off. Then use paste/solder to re-attach.
    Infernal Machine
  • Word of the day: eutectic

    relating to or denoting a mixture of substances (in fixed proportions) that melts and solidifies at a single temperature that is lower than the melting points of the separate constituents or of any other mixture of them.

    I did not know this one. Now I do.
    Do not taunt Happy Fun Ball! @opengeekorg ---> Be Excellent To One Another SKYPE = acuity_doug
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  • potatohead wrote: »
    Word of the day: eutectic

    relating to or denoting a mixture of substances (in fixed proportions) that melts and solidifies at a single temperature that is lower than the melting points of the separate constituents or of any other mixture of them.

    I did not know this one. Now I do.

    That's why the good old tin/lead solder made such nice joints. They were shiny because there was almost no plastic phase as they cooled. Now, as the lead-free formulations cool, they go through a long plastic phase, yielding a dimply finish and a weaker connection.
  • kwinnkwinn Posts: 8,251
    edited 2019-01-17 - 21:36:02
    Mark_T wrote: »
    All tin-based solders are going to work together, but unlikely to be eutectic by chance, so
    pastiness is expected.

    I use 63/37 tin/lead rosin core solder (a eutectic alloy with the lowest melting point (183 °C or 361 °F) of all the tin-lead alloys) for PCB repairs. Never had a problem with any repairs to boards that used unleaded solders, although I do have to set the iron temp a bit higher and the solder on the joint is not as shiny as when I use the leaded solder on new boards. I bought a dozen five pound rolls about 8 - 10 years ago just in case. Still working on the first two rolls, although the thinner one is almost gone.
    In science there is no authority. There is only experiment.
    Life is unpredictable. Eat dessert first.
  • I didn’t know unleaded was weaker...
    Interesting...
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  • Rayman wrote: »
    I didn’t know unleaded was weaker...
    Interesting...

    That's been my experience. I've seen parts pop off of boards due to minor mechanical stresses. It could often be a wetting issue.
  • Mine too.

    The new stuff is like a conglomerate, not solid, and has both lower tensile strength and higher brittleness.

    Temperature really matters too. Under, say 20C it is noticable. And it is downright bad below 0C.


    Do not taunt Happy Fun Ball! @opengeekorg ---> Be Excellent To One Another SKYPE = acuity_doug
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  • Mark_TMark_T Posts: 1,981
    edited 2019-01-17 - 23:48:38
    cgracey wrote: »
    potatohead wrote: »
    Word of the day: eutectic

    relating to or denoting a mixture of substances (in fixed proportions) that melts and solidifies at a single temperature that is lower than the melting points of the separate constituents or of any other mixture of them.

    I did not know this one. Now I do.

    That's why the good old tin/lead solder made such nice joints. They were shiny because there was almost no plastic phase as they cooled. Now, as the lead-free formulations cool, they go through a long plastic phase, yielding a dimply finish and a weaker connection.

    Not if you use a eutectic lead free solder, which you pretty much have to as the other stuff is unworkable for
    hand soldering. This means using the 4% Ag formulations, and they solder well, just a bit higher temperature.

    If you've been using the tin/copper stuff no wonder you don't like it!! All solders are supposed to be eutectic to
    be workable, the cheap stuff isnt' (I never understood the 60/40 tin lead stuff as the eutectic mix is 63/37)
  • So the problem I've had with boards is actually snapping the microSD since they are so thin and fragile and normally they are tucked away inside a device safe n snug. I've snapped around about a dozen cards in the last few years and I even snapped a 32GB the other day!

    When using these compact sockets you have to take into account even that little 0.5mm gap not only only for the card but also for the socket itself as some of you have noted. In fact on my P2D2 I have a socket mounted on the P2 side facing in so that the card slides in over the Flash but I also have a socket in parallel on the reverse side facing out. This exterior socket is only meant for development testing as it allows the card to be changed easily but I have already lifted the socket off the board so that it needs resoldering.

    The point of my original post is that we only need to put something a bit thinner than a credit card thickness under there to support it and whereas I had difficulty trying to safely remove it before, I can now just push down and rely on the raised end of the card for the grip as I flick it out. The pad also helps to guide the card in too. Funny thing was that when I was doing this the other day I was talking to Cluso99 on the phone and he was drilling an indentation in the edge of the board (which I could hear) but he was then worried about shorts through the layers. I think my way was simpler and faster :)

    Tachyon Forth - compact, fast, forthwright and interactive
    useforthlogo-s.png
    --->CLICK THE LOGO for more links<---
    P2 +++++ TAQOZ INTRO & LINKS +++++ P2 SHORTFORM DATASHEET
    P1 +++++ Latest binary V5.4 includes EASYFILE +++++ Tachyon Forth News Blog
    Brisbane, Australia
  • jmgjmg Posts: 13,618
    The point of my original post is that we only need to put something a bit thinner than a credit card thickness under there to support it ..

    SMD parts come in a wide choice of thickness, so maybe just a SMD part in the right location can solve this ?
    eg 1206 resistors look to be 0.65~0.75mm depending on vendor.

  • mindrobotsmindrobots Posts: 6,506
    edited 2019-01-18 - 22:53:21
    Heater, if you were to use leaded solder, I'm sure you would be in violation of numerous EU regulations regarding the use of leaded solder on electronic components.

    Do you feel lucky?? :0)

    Edit:
    I didn't mean to invoke heater's name in vain. David Betz made the comment about leaded solder which sparked my attempt to poke fun at EU lead free regulation...which makes no sense now knowing where David lives. We'll just blame it on the late night.
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  • Speaking of which, I haven't seen Heater posting here for months ... a quick check tells me he is still afloat and one post says he's very busy - https://forums.parallax.com/discussion/comment/1459110/#Comment_1459110

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