Great work, Ariba!!· I have another tool to use with Ray's LCDs in learning how this mysterious SPIN stuff works.·· I tried to take a picture of the display for you, but it runs too quickly - they all came out blurred.· Is there a way to slow it down for a slower lens?
There are some wrong comments in the Driver file (just copied from a 2 bit driver and forgot to change).
So I attach a polished version. The code has not changed, only some description. If you don't want study
the driver you don't need to update it.
Eagleman
You can add the following line after the last line of PUB GraphicsDemo (same indention as k++):
waitcnt(clkfreq+cnt)
This updates the display only 1 time every second. Enough time for a photo...
I was just wondering what kind of case that would fit the lcd !
Would be nice to get a metal front-plate to this lcd (witch actually keeps the lcd in place behind it as well). As thin as possible (of course not in the nano level of thin just because it's possible ), so that the lcd's edges are click-friendly (with a finger-tip), even in the corners. Also some fixing points in that plate so that different back-ends could be used (45 degree uptilted table/kiosk mini stand, Ariba - the Pocket/PDA Prop, a Wall-mounted etc.)..
Nice to see the photos w installations (and even more graphics drivers
Metal case for the LCD, something like this fake image perhaps... and on the Prop II ? (Note that the graphics is from another existing system , just looked cool)
Yes, must be perfect for the solar car, not stealing any power at all, and does not build any weight. This lcd (and equals) + prop will hopefully bring many (now in the drawer) projects up and into the light so to say, especially those projects that really needed the observers WOW factor to "work" , not just 4 blinking led and a couple of micro switches.
Your display looks fantastic, but....· The·special box to exactly fit the display is impractical because of cost, circuitry space, fastenings (the screws on your display would go right through the display), battery space, switches and space for connectors like power, I/O, etc.· Once you try to really make everything fit together then reality sets in and the enclosure size and some other features may have to play the compromise game.· It's like looking at a picture of the dream living room with all of the necessary things like lamps, tv, phone, but you never see a power cord or cable anywhere.
McTrivia,
There is space for circuitry.· The amount of that space is dependent on things like whether the box is ordered with the 9 volt battery compartment (I had to notch the top of the battery box for LCD clearance), height and placement of tall components (had to shave a little off the box's board mountings for DB15H clearance).· The LCD fits nicely and taking the que from earlier posts, the LCD is held rather securely with double stick (cushioned) tape from Loews or Home Depot.· They also make a slightly larger box (27-S-x) with the slope from long edge to long edge that might work better.· The 4.3" LCD display is in·landscape mode which might be better suited to the #27 box than my setup.· Again, it's a compromise.· A portrait oriented font is needed for my box.
When I work out exact placements for my box, I'm going to send some boxes to neoteric for him to practice on with his new CNC machine.
I've attached a photo showing comparative sizes with and without batteries, the inverted top with the LCD securely in place, and also showing the box as I've used before with the Hill 20 key pad.
Post Edited (Eagleman) : 12/17/2009 9:37:39 PM GMT
Yes you're completely right. You have to excuse my photoshop skills and other drawing, they are out of proportions and all. I'm just a fan of the instrumentation plates/panels you see in old submarine movies and old fighter plane cockpits, nearly rusty w. old weared out screws etc. Plastic is great, but...
A thin universal metal frame for this lcd exact measurements let's one mount it on any home made "box", as small as it would allow for that particular project, I think the hard part is just near the edges around the frame, to get the feeling of "no edges" height-wise around it since it's a touch screen, perhaps there is a panel mount kit that has the right measurements already?
Here is a schematic to use 3x AT28BV16-25JC to give you 24bit color.
Requires only 6 pins.
Under normal mode you tie OE# low and WE# high.
To program set OE high and WE low. Have the prop step through each of the 64 colour combinations and for each one with another prop or dip switches feed the 24 bit colour it should represent.
A programing rig could be built to auto program and these ics can be socketed easily.
M.E.S.H.·· Take a look at··www.emachineshop.com.· It looks like just what you are looking for. I priced (roughly) what I think you are suggesting for a top plate and the price came out to be about $10.00 each for a run of 25 in inexpensive ABS plastic (more for metals).· That's more than what the box would cost.· Try the link, tho, I think you'd enjoy seeing the possibilities of doing the designing and having someone like emachineshop to the fabrication.
Ariba said...
I tried your 6 bit driver, but my SD card is to slow (a 512MB older card). I get only the half buffer filled for every
16 lines.
Ok, I've cleaned up the 6-bit demo a bit.· I should now work with slow and fast SD cards.· Also, the number of rows of image is dynamically variable.· Also, it will show you a message if the SD fails to mount or open.· Also fixed the documentation a bit.
Ray, You are my HERO!!· I'm learning a lot from your LCD, breakout board, your software and now you're going to provide me with a usable small font for the LCD.· What a Christmas!!········ Thanks
My first real Prop project is to modify your version of Paint3 into an on screen keyboard with touch "pickup" of keystrokes to be displayed above the keyboard image and stored into a temporary buffer.· I've done this with a PIC18F4620 and a MultiLabs· ezDisplay and it seemed to work pretty well.· Although my need is for portait format stuff, I'm doing this in landscape because it's the easiest right now.· This may have already been done or it turn out to be garbage, but it is a learning project.
Does the variables defining the LCD pins work differently Ariba's drivers compared to Rayman's? I have the PSB Paint and PSB VGA Demo working fine. I can kind of make out the spinning triangles in the graphics demo, but it is really noisy.
This is what I have it set the driver to currently. (My physical setup is set to the default of Rayman's driver)
DAT 'LCD connection and settings
sync long 0 'Sync indicator variable
basepin long 16 'CUSTOMIZE this Pin settings!!
DEpin long 26
PCLKpin long 25
DONpin long 24
BLpin long 24
Brightness long 22 '1..31
parpass long 0 'reserved for parameter passing
Also, how tolerant is the display of longer wires? I have jumper wires ~8" from the prop to the break out board.
PSB Paint, VGA Demo, and Graphics Demo are working perfect. I wired the display according to the LCD Driver vars.
I am having trouble with Arribas' driver. I had modified his driver to reflect how I have it hooked up, and the attached (crummy - sorry!) picture is what I get.
mctrivia said...
Here is a schematic to use 3x AT28BV16-25JC to give you 24bit color.
Requires only 6 pins.
Under normal mode you tie OE# low and WE# high.
To program set OE high and WE low. Have the prop step through each of the 64 colour combinations and for each one with another prop or dip switches feed the 24 bit colour it should represent.
A programing rig could be built to auto program and these ics can be socketed easily.
Interesting. So it's still 6bit to the propeller, but you are not limited by the color representation of the 6-bit, but rather you have a 6-bit pallet from a possible 24-bit library.
mctrivia said...
Here is a schematic to use 3x AT28BV16-25JC to give you 24bit color.
Requires only 6 pins.
Under normal mode you tie OE# low and WE# high.
To program set OE high and WE low. Have the prop step through each of the 64 colour combinations and for each one with another prop or dip switches feed the 24 bit colour it should represent.
A programing rig could be built to auto program and these ics can be socketed easily.
Would be interesting to see if an 'inline' programming circuit could be made with 4x 74xx595 and some way to flip between the eeproms being pinned to the lcd and set as input from the 595's. Then you could load a pallet just like GIF whenever you like without having to remove the chips from the circuit.
Comments
There are some wrong comments in the Driver file (just copied from a 2 bit driver and forgot to change).
So I attach a polished version. The code has not changed, only some description. If you don't want study
the driver you don't need to update it.
Eagleman
You can add the following line after the last line of PUB GraphicsDemo (same indention as k++):
waitcnt(clkfreq+cnt)
This updates the display only 1 time every second. Enough time for a photo...
Andy
Here is the photo of your TSD_Graphics_Demo on my 4.3" LCD.· Hope this is good enough.
Also attached is a photo·of one of Ray's TFT LCDs in a Serpac 15-S-A box from Mouser.
Post Edited (Eagleman) : 12/17/2009 2:44:30 PM GMT
Would be nice to get a metal front-plate to this lcd (witch actually keeps the lcd in place behind it as well). As thin as possible (of course not in the nano level of thin just because it's possible
Nice to see the photos w installations (and even more graphics drivers
/M.E.S.H
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24 bit LCD Breakout Board now in. $21.99 has backlight driver and touch sensitive decoder.
/M.E.S.H
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UC Berkeley '12 EECS
CalSol: Berkeley Solar Car team
www.calsol.berkeley.edu
KJ6AWU
I think psodo 24bit color could be achieved using 3 prom chips like this
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=M27W401-80B6-ND
You still only get 64 colors but they can be any 64 colors
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24 bit LCD Breakout Board now in. $21.99 has backlight driver and touch sensitive decoder.
/M.E.S.H
You can then program the prom with the 64 colors you want to use. Same idea as gif color table.
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24 bit LCD Breakout Board now in. $21.99 has backlight driver and touch sensitive decoder.
Your display looks fantastic, but....· The·special box to exactly fit the display is impractical because of cost, circuitry space, fastenings (the screws on your display would go right through the display), battery space, switches and space for connectors like power, I/O, etc.· Once you try to really make everything fit together then reality sets in and the enclosure size and some other features may have to play the compromise game.· It's like looking at a picture of the dream living room with all of the necessary things like lamps, tv, phone, but you never see a power cord or cable anywhere.
McTrivia,
There is space for circuitry.· The amount of that space is dependent on things like whether the box is ordered with the 9 volt battery compartment (I had to notch the top of the battery box for LCD clearance), height and placement of tall components (had to shave a little off the box's board mountings for DB15H clearance).· The LCD fits nicely and taking the que from earlier posts, the LCD is held rather securely with double stick (cushioned) tape from Loews or Home Depot.· They also make a slightly larger box (27-S-x) with the slope from long edge to long edge that might work better.· The 4.3" LCD display is in·landscape mode which might be better suited to the #27 box than my setup.· Again, it's a compromise.· A portrait oriented font is needed for my box.
When I work out exact placements for my box, I'm going to send some boxes to neoteric for him to practice on with his new CNC machine.
I've attached a photo showing comparative sizes with and without batteries, the inverted top with the LCD securely in place, and also showing the box as I've used before with the Hill 20 key pad.
Post Edited (Eagleman) : 12/17/2009 9:37:39 PM GMT
Yes you're completely right. You have to excuse my photoshop skills and other drawing, they are out of proportions and all. I'm just a fan of the instrumentation plates/panels you see in old submarine movies and old fighter plane cockpits, nearly rusty w. old weared out screws etc. Plastic is great, but...
A thin universal metal frame for this lcd exact measurements let's one mount it on any home made "box", as small as it would allow for that particular project, I think the hard part is just near the edges around the frame, to get the feeling of "no edges" height-wise around it since it's a touch screen, perhaps there is a panel mount kit that has the right measurements already?
/M.E.S.H
Requires only 6 pins.
Under normal mode you tie OE# low and WE# high.
To program set OE high and WE low. Have the prop step through each of the 64 colour combinations and for each one with another prop or dip switches feed the 24 bit colour it should represent.
A programing rig could be built to auto program and these ics can be socketed easily.
▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
24 bit LCD Breakout Board now in. $21.99 has backlight driver and touch sensitive decoder.
Thank you so much, that's -= exactly =- what I was looking for! I will download their software and give it a go!
/M.E.S.H
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My Prop Info&Apps: ·http://www.rayslogic.com/propeller/propeller.htm
http://www.frontpanelexpress.com/
Tim
I think my next driver will be for a 6x10 font like this one:
http://www.dr-hoiby.com/res/HobTiny.php
I think it looks pretty good and will give 80 columns by 27 rows!
I've already converted the font into a machine readable text file here:
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My Prop Info&Apps: ·http://www.rayslogic.com/propeller/propeller.htm
My first real Prop project is to modify your version of Paint3 into an on screen keyboard with touch "pickup" of keystrokes to be displayed above the keyboard image and stored into a temporary buffer.· I've done this with a PIC18F4620 and a MultiLabs· ezDisplay and it seemed to work pretty well.· Although my need is for portait format stuff, I'm doing this in landscape because it's the easiest right now.· This may have already been done or it turn out to be garbage, but it is a learning project.
This is what I have it set the driver to currently. (My physical setup is set to the default of Rayman's driver)
Also, how tolerant is the display of longer wires? I have jumper wires ~8" from the prop to the break out board.
Thanks!
▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
My Prop Info&Apps: ·http://www.rayslogic.com/propeller/propeller.htm
I am having trouble with Arribas' driver. I had modified his driver to reflect how I have it hooked up, and the attached (crummy - sorry!) picture is what I get.
Thanks!
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My Prop Info&Apps: ·http://www.rayslogic.com/propeller/propeller.htm
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My Prop Info&Apps: ·http://www.rayslogic.com/propeller/propeller.htm
I changed the DE and PCLK pins to 14 and 15, and now it works. Some reason it will not work with pins 24 and 25.
Thanks for all your help (and to Ariba for all your work on the driver)!
Here is this font conditioned to copy into a Spin source.
I have adapted one of my Text drivers to the font, but I am not totally convinced....
I will post first my Text Drivers which use other fonts.
Andy
Interesting. So it's still 6bit to the propeller, but you are not limited by the color representation of the 6-bit, but rather you have a 6-bit pallet from a possible 24-bit library.
It comes in soic and pdip - very nice.
Would be interesting to see if an 'inline' programming circuit could be made with 4x 74xx595 and some way to flip between the eeproms being pinned to the lcd and set as input from the 595's. Then you could load a pallet just like GIF whenever you like without having to remove the chips from the circuit.
▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
24 bit LCD Breakout Board now in. $21.99 has backlight driver and touch sensitive decoder.