I have a miniature table saw from Harbor Freight with a 4" blade. I find it's very useful for cutting circuit boards, "routing" openings in plastic clamshell boxes (at the seam between the top & bottom of the box) to make an opening for switches, connectors, power jacks, etc.· The saw is also useful for a lot of other hobby tasks where you like to cut a small piece of plastic, wood, metal, etc.· I like to use it·for cutting cover plates oversize and then trimming then down with the saw to make near perfect fits.
I couldn't find a saw like that at Home Depot or Sears, so I used my diamond wet-saw...· Seems to work well, but the blade makes a fatter cut than I'd like...
Ok, got the first batch of breakout boards ready to ship!· All are individually tested for functionality by yours truly [noparse]:)[/noparse]··
(Boards on the left are the ones I'm selling, those on the right·are special for the Prop Platform board and I'm sending them to Gadget Gangster.··Prop Platform boards·have Backlight and Display On pins hardwired together·so it can simply plug into that board without worrying about pin conflicts with the Tx/Rx pins...)
Going to send out some invoices now to the first few people on the waiting list...
Ray:· Those freshly baked "cookies" from the first batch are looking tasty.· Did you bake/toast them in an oven or use a hot-plate/skillet?·
BTW:· Thanks for the pics of the stencil!· Just discovered them.· I get it:· befriend the hijacker to catch him off-guard.· Anyway, those images look just like things that I've seen online, including ones from Sparkfun that James Long suggested.·
Incidentally, I just decided that every successful thread must have a companion sub-topic running along side (a subplot, if you will, related or not...especially since you supplied the stencil pics and folks seem interested).· So on with the hijacking!· Heres a couple links:
OBC, I don't seem to have you on my list... You're scaring me though, you did get your box of displays already, right? I just checked the delivery confirmation# and it says delivered...
I believe I have now invoiced everybody who placed an order prior to last weekend...
If you were waiting and didn't get an invoice to pay yet, please email me...
Quite a few of the displays in this latest batch that I've looked at so far have screen protectors on them... I'm not sure what this means though... Perhaps never been used? Or, perhaps the original owner never took the protector off? Don't know, but I take it as a good sign [noparse]:)[/noparse]
Can't wait to see the displays. Version 1 of my MSD Oven project is basically done and will just need to modify the code to for this display. My first version will not make use of the touchpanel, but as the project evolves, I have several reasons to use it. Future versions will include a barcode scanner, RTC to automatically track baking time, and some sort of inventory system.
No one ever answered my question from 10/16, so I will try to figure it out when my displays arrive unless someone wants to take a swing at it........
On 10/16, I said...
I am reviewing the datasheet attached to the very first post and having a bit of trouble determining the proper opening size for a case. Page 27 in the PDF is the Outline Dimension DWG and there are several dimensions with abbreviations on the perimeter of the front side view (the view on the left). Here's what I have figured out for the abbreviations/dimensions by using the design guide notes on page 14/15 of the PDF (section 4.3) and the Outline Dimension DWG on page 27:
OUT SIZE = Outer dimensions of display
TSP = Touch Screen Panel
TSP V/A = Touch Screen Panel Viewing Area
C/F POL = Crystal Film Polarizer?
TSP A/A = Touch Screen Panel Active Area
It appears that the viewing area (inner bezel dimensions) as defined on page 15 should would make the width of the hole in the case 98.7mm (104.9 TSP - 3.1mm (left bezel edge) - 3.1mm (right bezel edge)). The height of the hole would be 56.5mm (64.9 TSP - 3.1mm (top bezel edge) - 5.3mm (bottom edge))
Anyone else take a hard look at the dimensions for making a case opening?
If you guys want to assemble the SMD stuff, I highly recommend a hot air gun, a dental pick, tweezers and solder paste. Makes life way easier. I avoided SMD until I learned all the tricks and won't go back. I find baking boards not good for 1 offs as it is too hot to push components around a hot plate. The hot air heats only a little area that cools quickly so is much better control.
You can buy a hot air gun + temp controlled soldering iron for $100 shipped on ebay (search 852D+).
Rayman shipped my units out so I will get them soon.
I sell 50W cheap laser cutters (propeller controlled soon!) so I'll make a template that's easily cut on a laser and post the drawing.
_______________
FullSpectrumEngineering.com
low cost CO2 laser cutters, inkjet pcb kits, 3d laser scanning
I received Ray's screens and one of his breakout boards.
Looking over the breakout board, the overall appearance looks good. The solder joints are nice, and the layout seems functional. One note on the traces, he did put some 90 degree bends in some of them (not necessarily a good thing), but most of those look to be touchscreen items, so they shouldn't create any problems.
There was one solder bridge on the touch controller IC, but I think those pins are not critical.
Overall, I think the board is very well done for a first forum item sold to members.
Nice job Ray. I'll have to get it wired up to play with the screen some.
Hmm... I've tried to clean up all the solder bridges... There are a lot because perhaps my technique isn't good enough for this tiny pitch...
I'm not really convinced there's any problem at all with 90-degree turns. Maybe for sub-nanosecond work it would make a difference, but I don't see them having any affect at all here...
Except, I try to avoid them because they take up more space...
But, I do test all the boards, including touch screen response. So, I'm surprised it would work with a bridge... I usually stop testing when everything works...
Looking over the breakout board, the overall appearance looks good. The solder joints are nice, and the layout seems functional. One note on the traces, he did put some 90 degree bends in some of them (not necessarily a good thing), but most of those look to be touchscreen items, so they shouldn't create any problems.
James L
I'm surprised that you even mentioned right angle traces. There has always been this aesthetic thing with angles but back in the early days of pcb fabrication there were problems with etching (undercutting) and bonding that particularly affected right angle tracks. There is is also the issue with high frequency signals because of reflections etc but they are not really an issue until you are up in the GHz range. Of course vias themselves can cause more problems than that but I haven't seen too many boards without them. High voltages will also punch through more easily on any "sharp feature" but I don't think Tesla has designed many pcbs lately [noparse]:)[/noparse]
Have you had problems with right angles yourself James?
Rayman said...
Hmm... I've tried to clean up all the solder bridges... There are a lot because perhaps my technique isn't good enough for this tiny pitch...
Hi Ray, what technique are you using for fine pitch? Usually I run a fine bead of paste across the pads and as long as you bake the board long enough then then solder draws across onto the pads, no problem.
Peter Jakacki said...
I'm surprised that you even mentioned right angle traces. There has always been this aesthetic thing with angles but back in the early days of pcb fabrication there were problems with etching (undercutting) and bonding that particularly affected right angle tracks. There is is also the issue with high frequency signals because of reflections etc but they are not really an issue until you are up in the GHz range. Of course vias themselves can cause more problems than that but I haven't seen too many boards without them. High voltages will also punch through more easily on any "sharp feature" but I don't think Tesla has designed many pcbs lately [noparse]:)[/noparse]
Have you had problems with right angles yourself James?
I've never had a problem with 90 degree angles, mainly because I've never used them. I always use a intermediate angle. You are probably right, that few problems arise from 90 angles, but they are much more esthetically pleasing.
Rayman said...
Hmm... I've tried to clean up all the solder bridges... There are a lot because perhaps my technique isn't good enough for this tiny pitch...
I'm not really convinced there's any problem at all with 90-degree turns. Maybe for sub-nanosecond work it would make a difference, but I don't see them having any affect at all here...
Except, I try to avoid them because they take up more space...
But, I do test all the boards, including touch screen response. So, I'm surprised it would work with a bridge... I usually stop testing when everything works...
Did you get it working yet?
Ray,
I haven't had time to play with it. We are busy finishing up running an assembly job, and I may not have much time until Tuesday. Yes, we do work on the weekends, especially if we are behind.
I'll fix the solder bridge, just in case.
I learned early that 90 degree angles can cause problems, mainly with high speed communications, so I always put intermediate angles at turns. It may be overkill, but I believe in safe, rather than sorry. I find they really do not take up more space, it's all in the way you route them.
As for the solder bridges, the problem is probably not your technique, it is probably the stencil. The apertures are probably too large, causing an excess of solder.
I hope to play with it some this week......but can't bet on it.
Thinking some more about it, there are several extraneous analog inputs to the touch chip that could be bridged with no affect on touchscreen performance...
I shall be more vigilant in the future when checking the touchscreen chip for bridges!
Thanks for catching that oversight...
Rayman said...
Thinking some more about it, there are several extraneous analog inputs to the touch chip that could be bridged with no affect on touchscreen performance...
I shall be more vigilant in the future when checking the touchscreen chip for bridges!
Thanks for catching that oversight...
Ray,
Don't worry about it. There is no such thing as 100% success rate with assembly.
I just noted it, just in case someone had a problem. I doubt anyone will, especially since you are doing pre-shipment testing.
I don't mind the bridge.....it's not a problem......... I do not consider that a negative statement. Anyone who considers that a problem hasn't done much SMT assembly.
A little solder wick and an iron will take the problem away. I will use some flux, our hot air rework station, and break the surface tension with a dental pick when it becomes molten. The easiest way to fix a problem like that (although it does take more time than a soldering iron).
I just got the Propeller Platform version of the breakout board in the mail on Saturday, and it's now available on Gadget Gangster. Here's the requisite photo:
That Propeller Platform really does make things like this plug and play...· It doesn't get any easier...
Anyway, looks like 6-bit full-screen photos are going to be possible by reading directly from the SD card!· This is a work in progress, but check out this image:
Now, I've got to get back to shipping stuff or people are going to start to get mad with me [noparse]:)[/noparse]
Got my LCDs on Saturday, but have only had a chance to look at them. (in the middle of replacing my kitchen floor). They do look like new and I can't wait to see it live. I may move to a Gadget Gangster Platform board which would make the stack up that much easier. My only concern is the total stack height as I already have an enclosure that I would like to use.
The 6 bit full screen photo is awesome. That will make later versions of my setup look more professional.
Ray,
Thanks again for your efforts and generosity in regards to marketing the displays. Many people would have jumped at the chance to make a massive profit off the displays, especially since the need/desire for them is so great. I applaud your interest in developing the Propeller community as opposed to taking advantage of it.
Thanks! I do clear a tiny profit from sales, but I've had A LOT of costs with buying prototype boards and the real boards and so forth.
But, looks like I may break even in this endeavor very soon!
There must be something wrong.... Got my breakout board wired up to a USB Protoboard and it's running perfect. This never happens for me on the 1st try. There's always something wrong like a miswired connection...or something plugged in backwards.
It fired up the first time, no smoke or anything.
I guess every once in a while even a blind squirrel finds a nut..... lol
Comments
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My Prop Info&Apps: ·http://www.rayslogic.com/propeller/propeller.htm
Diamond tip cutting whel works well.
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24 bit LCD Breakout Board coming soon. $21.99 has backlight driver and touch sensitive decoder.
I have a miniature table saw from Harbor Freight with a 4" blade. I find it's very useful for cutting circuit boards, "routing" openings in plastic clamshell boxes (at the seam between the top & bottom of the box) to make an opening for switches, connectors, power jacks, etc.· The saw is also useful for a lot of other hobby tasks where you like to cut a small piece of plastic, wood, metal, etc.· I like to use it·for cutting cover plates oversize and then trimming then down with the saw to make near perfect fits.
the saw is the:
4" Mighty-Mite Table Saw
Chicago Electric Power Tools
93211-0VGA··· $39.99
Harbor Freight link to the saw:····· http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=93211
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My Prop Info&Apps: ·http://www.rayslogic.com/propeller/propeller.htm
In your shots of the SS stencil is the stencil somehow hinged to a fixture that keeps the stencil
registered to your boards below the stencil?
Thanks,
Jack
I couldn't find a saw like that at Home Depot or Sears, so I used my diamond wet-saw...· Seems to work well, but the blade makes a fatter cut than I'd like...
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My Prop Info&Apps: ·http://www.rayslogic.com/propeller/propeller.htm
(Boards on the left are the ones I'm selling, those on the right·are special for the Prop Platform board and I'm sending them to Gadget Gangster.··Prop Platform boards·have Backlight and Display On pins hardwired together·so it can simply plug into that board without worrying about pin conflicts with the Tx/Rx pins...)
Going to send out some invoices now to the first few people on the waiting list...
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My Prop Info&Apps: ·http://www.rayslogic.com/propeller/propeller.htm
BTW:· Thanks for the pics of the stencil!· Just discovered them.· I get it:· befriend the hijacker to catch him off-guard.· Anyway, those images look just like things that I've seen online, including ones from Sparkfun that James Long suggested.·
Incidentally, I just decided that every successful thread must have a companion sub-topic running along side (a subplot, if you will, related or not...especially since you supplied the stencil pics and folks seem interested).· So on with the hijacking!· Heres a couple links:
Stencil class w/video:· ·http://www.esawdust.com/blog/EaglePCB/files/SparkfunSolderPasteStencilClass.html
Okay, folks, move along;· nothing more to see here.· Back to the main topic:· a newly minted breakout board for a cool LCD touch-panel.
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http://www.propgfx.co.uk/forum/·home of the PropGFX Lite
·
Ray, am I on your list for a couple of these?
OBC
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New to the Propeller?
Visit the: The Propeller Pages @ Warranty Void.
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My Prop Info&Apps: ·http://www.rayslogic.com/propeller/propeller.htm
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My Prop Info&Apps: ·http://www.rayslogic.com/propeller/propeller.htm
I've emailed my request.
OBC
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New to the Propeller?
Visit the: The Propeller Pages @ Warranty Void.
If you were waiting and didn't get an invoice to pay yet, please email me...
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My Prop Info&Apps: ·http://www.rayslogic.com/propeller/propeller.htm
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My Prop Info&Apps: ·http://www.rayslogic.com/propeller/propeller.htm
No one ever answered my question from 10/16, so I will try to figure it out when my displays arrive unless someone wants to take a swing at it........
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Andrew Williams
WBA Consulting
WBA-TH1M Sensirion SHT11 Module
Special Olympics Polar Bear Plunge, Mar 20, 2010
You can buy a hot air gun + temp controlled soldering iron for $100 shipped on ebay (search 852D+).
Rayman shipped my units out so I will get them soon.
I sell 50W cheap laser cutters (propeller controlled soon!) so I'll make a template that's easily cut on a laser and post the drawing.
_______________
FullSpectrumEngineering.com
low cost CO2 laser cutters, inkjet pcb kits, 3d laser scanning
Looking over the breakout board, the overall appearance looks good. The solder joints are nice, and the layout seems functional. One note on the traces, he did put some 90 degree bends in some of them (not necessarily a good thing), but most of those look to be touchscreen items, so they shouldn't create any problems.
There was one solder bridge on the touch controller IC, but I think those pins are not critical.
Overall, I think the board is very well done for a first forum item sold to members.
Nice job Ray. I'll have to get it wired up to play with the screen some.
James L
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James L
Partner/Designer
Lil Brother SMT Assembly Services
Are you addicted to technology or Micro-controllers..... then checkout the forums at Savage Circuits. Learn to build your own Gizmos!
I'm not really convinced there's any problem at all with 90-degree turns. Maybe for sub-nanosecond work it would make a difference, but I don't see them having any affect at all here...
Except, I try to avoid them because they take up more space...
But, I do test all the boards, including touch screen response. So, I'm surprised it would work with a bridge... I usually stop testing when everything works...
Did you get it working yet?
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My Prop Info&Apps: ·http://www.rayslogic.com/propeller/propeller.htm
I'm surprised that you even mentioned right angle traces. There has always been this aesthetic thing with angles but back in the early days of pcb fabrication there were problems with etching (undercutting) and bonding that particularly affected right angle tracks. There is is also the issue with high frequency signals because of reflections etc but they are not really an issue until you are up in the GHz range. Of course vias themselves can cause more problems than that but I haven't seen too many boards without them. High voltages will also punch through more easily on any "sharp feature" but I don't think Tesla has designed many pcbs lately [noparse]:)[/noparse]
Have you had problems with right angles yourself James?
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*Peter*
Hi Ray, what technique are you using for fine pitch? Usually I run a fine bead of paste across the pads and as long as you bake the board long enough then then solder draws across onto the pads, no problem.
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*Peter*
I've never had a problem with 90 degree angles, mainly because I've never used them. I always use a intermediate angle. You are probably right, that few problems arise from 90 angles, but they are much more esthetically pleasing.
James L
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James L
Partner/Designer
Lil Brother SMT Assembly Services
Are you addicted to technology or Micro-controllers..... then checkout the forums at Savage Circuits. Learn to build your own Gizmos!
Ray,
I haven't had time to play with it. We are busy finishing up running an assembly job, and I may not have much time until Tuesday. Yes, we do work on the weekends, especially if we are behind.
I'll fix the solder bridge, just in case.
I learned early that 90 degree angles can cause problems, mainly with high speed communications, so I always put intermediate angles at turns. It may be overkill, but I believe in safe, rather than sorry. I find they really do not take up more space, it's all in the way you route them.
As for the solder bridges, the problem is probably not your technique, it is probably the stencil. The apertures are probably too large, causing an excess of solder.
I hope to play with it some this week......but can't bet on it.
James L
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James L
Partner/Designer
Lil Brother SMT Assembly Services
Are you addicted to technology or Micro-controllers..... then checkout the forums at Savage Circuits. Learn to build your own Gizmos!
I shall be more vigilant in the future when checking the touchscreen chip for bridges!
Thanks for catching that oversight...
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My Prop Info&Apps: ·http://www.rayslogic.com/propeller/propeller.htm
Ray,
Don't worry about it. There is no such thing as 100% success rate with assembly.
I just noted it, just in case someone had a problem. I doubt anyone will, especially since you are doing pre-shipment testing.
I don't mind the bridge.....it's not a problem......... I do not consider that a negative statement. Anyone who considers that a problem hasn't done much SMT assembly.
A little solder wick and an iron will take the problem away. I will use some flux, our hot air rework station, and break the surface tension with a dental pick when it becomes molten. The easiest way to fix a problem like that (although it does take more time than a soldering iron).
James L
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James L
Partner/Designer
Lil Brother SMT Assembly Services
Are you addicted to technology or Micro-controllers..... then checkout the forums at Savage Circuits. Learn to build your own Gizmos!
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Gadget Gangster - Share your Electronic Projects
Anyway, looks like 6-bit full-screen photos are going to be possible by reading directly from the SD card!· This is a work in progress, but check out this image:
Now, I've got to get back to shipping stuff or people are going to start to get mad with me [noparse]:)[/noparse]
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My Prop Info&Apps: ·http://www.rayslogic.com/propeller/propeller.htm
The 6 bit full screen photo is awesome. That will make later versions of my setup look more professional.
Ray,
Thanks again for your efforts and generosity in regards to marketing the displays. Many people would have jumped at the chance to make a massive profit off the displays, especially since the need/desire for them is so great. I applaud your interest in developing the Propeller community as opposed to taking advantage of it.
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Andrew Williams
WBA Consulting
WBA-TH1M Sensirion SHT11 Module
Special Olympics Polar Bear Plunge, Mar 20, 2010
But, looks like I may break even in this endeavor very soon!
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My Prop Info&Apps: ·http://www.rayslogic.com/propeller/propeller.htm
It fired up the first time, no smoke or anything.
I guess every once in a while even a blind squirrel finds a nut..... lol
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Jim Fouch
FOUCH SOFTWARE