Well I as I said earlier, I built up yet another configuration o fthe PRC yesterday. I fnished up and tested it this afternoon. I did the following;
(1) hard wired 16 4.7K resistors on ports 8-15 and 16-23, used 8 2x3 pin headers for the 16 servo connectors
(2) put in 1.1K, 560, 270, 560 ohm resistors for pins 24-27, soldered the ends together and mounted an RCA jack
(3) used a low profile machine pin socket, open frame type with cross pieces cut off for the jumpers/resistors holes for pins 0-7
see first enclosed picture PRC2-7.jpg.
Now I took the Graphics Demo spin code and made what I thought should be the correct entry in the 'pins' variable of 'tvparams'. That was %011_0001. That got me exctly nowhere. Sp I basically ran through the 16 permutations of four bits and found %011_1100 and %011_1110 worked ... sort of ... see picture PRC2-8.jpg and you will see that I get a perfectly working demo EXCEPT I have 2-3 lines ever so slowly scrolling up the screen. OK, WHY?????
WHY #1 - why was %011_0001 wrong for pins 24-27, it seems the logical counterpart for %001_0101 for pins 12-15?
WHY #2 - why the slow scrolling lines?
tvparams long 0 'status
long 1 'enable
long %011_1100 'pins PRC 24-27 Broadcast lower nibble ????
long %0000 'mode
All you need to do to get TV object working is add the resistors and RCA jack. The logical place is pins 24-27. The values are, in order, 1.1K, 560, 270, and 560, and the code only requires the single change above in the calling routine. I will post an archive when I get it working right.
Now, again, does anyone have any idea why I get the slow scrolling lines across the display?
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cheers ... brian riley, n1bq, underhill center, vermont
See the K107 Serial LCD Controller at www.wulfden.org/k107/
Phil Pilgrim (PhiPi) said...
Try %011_0000. You want baseband on the bottom nybble, not broadcast, and nothing on the top nybble.
-Phil
Why did the original demo have %001_0101 which is broadcast.
OK, I tried the %011_0000 also ... and nada ... same output ... %011_0000, %011_1100, %011_1110 all produce the same clear, in color, graphics demo ... with 2-3 moderately crisp white lines equidistant spacing, slowly scrolling up the screen.
I then started to think, well I am using a Parallax 7.5volt wallwart to power the CPU, maybe there's something hinky there, so I switched to a 9 volt battery ... no smiles there either ... still 2-3 moderately crisp white lines equidistant spacing, very slowly scrolling up the screen.
Anyone else have any ideas ... ????
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cheers ... brian riley, n1bq, underhill center, vermont
See the K107 Serial LCD Controller at www.wulfden.org/k107/
Actually, %001_0101 is baseband on the top nybble of the A8-A15 group. I tried %011_0000 on my PropSTICK, and it worked fine — except the animation would pause every now and then. That's when I realized that A24 and A25 are used by the demo program as mouse inputs. When I changed mouse.start(24,25) to mouse.start(0,0), everything worked normally.
I'm not sure how the mouse setting could cause white lines on your system, but it might be worth altering it to see.
Actually, %001_0101 is baseband on the top nybble of the A8-A15 group. I tried %011_0000 on my PropSTICK, and it worked fine — except the animation would pause every now and then. That's when I realized that A24 and A25 are used by the demo program as mouse inputs. When I changed mouse.start(24,25) to mouse.start(0,0), everything worked normally.
I'm not sure how the mouse setting could cause white lines on your system, but it might be worth altering it to see.
-Phil
D'uh ... [noparse][[/noparse]sound of heel of palm impacting forehead] ... OK will give that a try, thank.
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cheers ... brian riley, n1bq, underhill center, vermont
See the K107 Serial LCD Controller at www.wulfden.org/k107/
Phil Pilgrim (PhiPi) said...
... ·I realized that A24 and A25 are used by the demo program as mouse inputs. When I changed mouse.start(24,25) to mouse.start(0,0),
everything worked normally.
I'm not sure how the mouse setting could cause white lines on your system, but it might be worth altering it to see
·YUP ... that did it, when I went to the mouse.start I found mouse.start(6),· and realized I had the _old_ Graphics Demo for the 4 pin·PS2 mouse/keyboard·drivers, which explains why mine behaved differently. It took "6" as the sixth group of 4 pins, which was 24-27. It would sure be interesting to see what that looked like on a scope!
Anyway I changed the "6" to a "0" and hit F10 and _voila_ clean graphics display. So I F11-ed it and its now resident demo in the PRC. next stop beaus's 32 servo program and pare it down to 16 servos for this new baord with TV out and KB input ...
·· Thanks Phil ...
p.s. I cannot seem to find the new demo, the Graphics Demo on the Object Library is for the 4-pin PS2 drivers.
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cheers ... brian riley, n1bq, underhill center, vermont
See the K107 Serial LCD Controller at www.wulfden.org/k107/
I was browsing through the various demos to see what I could get to run on the PRC (most of· them) , OBTW·I did find the updated Demo Board code with the 2 pin PS2 Objects.
Anyway·I tried the "Graphics Palette" Demo and changed pins to %011_0000, but left mouse.start(24,25) as is. What it produced was the nomral demo, but the mouse cursor was wandering all over the screen obviously following the video output of pins 24/25 ... whenever it by chance wandered onto a color palette item it displayed the appropriate code ... It was interesting that on the Graphcs Demo it prodced the slwo scrolling set of lines ... it bolsters the arguement/idea of inter cog 'piping' or 'communications, by having· one cog read the output pins of another cog.
Is it against the law to have this much fun??????????????????
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cheers ... brian riley, n1bq, underhill center, vermont
See the K107 Serial LCD Controller at www.wulfden.org/k107/
Greetings everyone! Well, I'm back from a sweet vacation in Omaha Nebraska... it was nice... HOT... and some awesome motorcycle riding!
Now, here I sit, ready to start assembling my board, only to discover the voltage reg's aren't what's stated in the builder's notes I'v downloaded...
Can someone tell me how to identify which VREG is which?
Rob7, if your still interested, I'll make a new thread for it...
KK
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Propeller + Hardware - extra bits for the bit bucket =· 1 Coffeeless KaosKidd
·
Kaos Kidd said...
Greetings everyone! Well, I'm back from a sweet vacation in Omaha Nebraska... it was nice... HOT... and some awesome motorcycle riding!
Now, here I sit, ready to start assembling my board, only to discover the voltage reg's aren't what's stated in the builder's notes I'v downloaded...
Can someone tell me how to identify which VREG is which?
Rob7, if your still interested, I'll make a new thread for it...
KK
OOOOPPPS, ya got me on that one, Mark slipped one by me. The two VRs are labeled LF33CV and LF50CV, one is 5 volt, one is 3.3 volt and they go where they are labeled 5v and 3v on the board. As you look at the board with the battery connectors towards you, U2 is the 5V regulator to the left, and U1 is the 3.3v regulator on the right.
As for the schematic, as any GOOD Parallax customer should well know by now an LM2940 is a 5 volt regulator, and even if the schematic were'nt so labeled, by elimination, that makes the LM2937 the 3.3 volt regulator.
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cheers ... brian riley, n1bq, underhill center, vermont
See the K107 Serial LCD Controller at www.wulfden.org/k107/
Brian...
Thanks... I got the part about the 2940=5 and 2937=3.3 I was missing the lf33=3.3 and lf50=5.0...
I just DL'd the newest notes... tonight's the night.... then it's on to some custom coding for a forum member....
Again, thanks for the info!
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Propeller + Hardware - extra bits for the bit bucket =· 1 Coffeeless KaosKidd
·
Brian Riley said...
Just a quick reminder for those actually interested in purchasing the PRC board, in case you are holding off until the last minute. Tomorrow (Friday 7/21) at noon I am putting the order in to Mouser for the parts for the PRC parts kit. At that time the price per pcboard and the price per parts kit goes up $1 each ($2 total on a board and parts kit purchase).
Brian Riley said...
I have given Mark some ideas of where I would like to go with rev 2, it involves cutting back to 16 servo connectors, adding extra EEPROM in the pin 28-29 I2C buss, maybe a video connector and a One-Wire connector on pins 24-27, and both of us have been thinking along the lines of maybe chopping the board down a bit and then maybe add a header that could accept add-on boards to use pins 0-7. THAT, would cut the board cost.
I would like to see a version of the board without the breadboard that would fit into the same form factor as the Lynxmotion SSC-2 and Atom Bot Board - they have a nice little electronics carrier that fits in with their Servo Erector Set components. I would keep the servo connectors on 0 - 15 if you are going to go down to just 16. For pins you want to dedicate to a specific purpose, cound down from the high end. You might want to consider adding the hardware floating point coprocessor.
I just ordered my PRC today!
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I can handle complexity.. It's the SIMPLE things that confound me.
The Dynaplex Network http://www.thedynaplex.org
Mike Green said...
The Propeller can already do fast floating point. There's a complete IEEE floating point library in the Object Exchange.
Yes, I know about the floating point library. There are many ways of doing things. Just because the Propeller is capable of doing everything in software does not mean that is the way I would necessarily choose to use it. A little help from hardware doesn't hurt. There is always a tradeoff between hardware and software.
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I can handle complexity.. It's the SIMPLE things that confound me.
The Dynaplex Network - Home of The Octabot Project http://www.thedynaplex.org
I just got my PRC kit today. That's GREAT service Brian and thanks!
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I can handle complexity.. It's the SIMPLE things that confound me.
The Dynaplex Network - Home of The Octabot Project http://www.thedynaplex.org
I did some test fitting of parts and cutting of headers for my PRC today. Has anyone considered trying 16-Pin IC sockets in the place of 3 sections of resistor headers for the I/O pins instead of the single row header pins. The spacing of the pins looks like a 16-Pin IC socket would fit right in place of the two rows of 8 pin single headers. If this will work it could make assembly a lot easier. I also think resistors would go into the IC socket a lot easier.
Also, the holes for the two 6 pin jumper headers seems to be a bit too widely spaced.
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I can handle complexity.. It's the SIMPLE things that confound me.
The Dynaplex Network - Home of The Octabot Project http://www.thedynaplex.org
linuxgeek said...
I did some test fitting of parts and cutting of headers for my PRC today. Has anyone considered trying 16-Pin IC sockets in the place of 3 sections of resistor headers for the I/O pins instead of the single row header pins. The spacing of the pins looks like a 16-Pin IC socket would fit right in place of the two rows of 8 pin single headers. If this will work it could make assembly a lot easier. I also think resistors would go into the IC socket a lot easier.
Also, the holes for the two 6 pin jumper headers seems to be a bit too widely spaced.
(1) yes thats already been done, Russ Ferguson did it see some of hi pix earlier in this thread. and Mark originally porposed that it ciould be done.
(2) agreed, the two rows of three are too far apart to use a a 2x3 header, will fix hat in next revision if/when it happens
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cheers ... brian riley, n1bq, underhill center, vermont
See the K107 Serial LCD Controller at www.wulfden.org/k107/
Brian Riley said...
(2) agreed, the two rows of three are too far apart to use a a 2x3 header, will fix hat in next revision if/when it happens
I took a stab at soldering the board up today and I am just not going to be able to do the assembly. It's nothing to do with the board, instructions, or other stuff like that. It's me. I just don't have the right tools right now, so will have to put the Propeller into a holding pattern until I can purchase a ready to use board like the PropStick, or something else ready made, or find somebody to finish this assembly for me.
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I can handle complexity.. It's the SIMPLE things that confound me.
The Dynaplex Network - Home of The Octabot Project http://www.thedynaplex.org
Post Edited (linuxgeek) : 9/8/2006 12:57:40 AM GMT
Careful linuxgeek -- I believe the PropSTICK is a KIT (unless you purchase it from Milford Instruments in the UK, who build it for you)...
linuxgeek said...
Brian Riley said...
(2) agreed, the two rows of three are too far apart to use a a 2x3 header, will fix hat in next revision if/when it happens
I took a stab at soldering the board up today and I am just not going to be able to do the assembly. It's nothing to do with the board, instructions, or other stuff like that. It's me. I just don't have the right tools right now, so will have to put the Propeller into a holding pattern until I can purchase a ready to use board like the PropStick, or something else ready mmade, or find somebody to finish this assembly for me.
Brian Riley said...
(2) agreed, the two rows of three are too far apart to use a a 2x3 header, will fix hat in next revision if/when it happens
I took a stab at soldering the board up today and I am just not going to be able to do the assembly. It's nothing to do with the board, instructions, or other stuff like that. It's me. I just don't have the right tools right now, so will have to put the Propeller into a holding pattern until I can purchase a ready to use board like the PropStick, or something else ready mmade, or find somebody to finish this assembly for me.
I'll put it together for you if you pick up the shipping costs (however you want it shipped) to and from MA.
Paul Sr. said...
I'll put it together for you if you pick up the shipping costs (however you want it shipped) to and from MA.
I appreciate the offer, but I would rather find somebody local. I'll check with our local Robotic clyb soon.
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I can handle complexity.. It's the SIMPLE things that confound me.
The Dynaplex Network - Home of The Octabot Project http://www.thedynaplex.org
I can not tell which regulator is which, and can not read the part numbers because they are so small. Which is th 3.3V and which is the 5V?
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I can handle complexity.. It's the SIMPLE things that confound me.
The Dynaplex Network - Home of The Octabot Project http://www.thedynaplex.org
linuxgeek said...
I can not tell which regulator is which, and can not read the part numbers because they are so small. Which is th 3.3V and which is the 5V?
You will need a strong light and need to distnguish between the numbers 33 and 50 on them for the 3.3v and 5.0v
when held under a modest light, the 5.0v regulator backside of heat sink appears a bit 'white' versus the 3.3v regulator backsde of heatsink appears more 'silvery'
My eyes are shot as far as close up work is concerned and I wear reading glasses, but I have an illuminated round glass magnifier on a cantilevered arm I use for checking parts and fine soldering. I picked it up at a hamfest for $10. I also keep a cheap $2 magnifier glass in the top drawer of my tool chest for quick peeks.
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cheers ... brian riley, n1bq, underhill center, vermont
See the K107 Serial LCD Controller at www.wulfden.org/k107/
Brian Riley said...
You will need a strong light and need to distnguish between the numbers 33 and 50 on them for the 3.3v and 5.0v
when held under a modest light, the 5.0v regulator backside of heat sink appears a bit 'white' versus the 3.3v regulator backsde of heatsink appears more 'silvery'
Yes, I will definitely need some aid for my eyes. I didn't think my vision had gotten that bad yet, but I think it's more of a contrast problem between the dark part numbers and the dark part paclage.
Are the resistors really needed for attaching servos to the board, and if so why? While I won't normally be having the Propeller run servos, it might be nice to be able to once in awhile.
Would having the resitors in the circuit all the time affect other things like sensors in a negative way like make them not work? I have been thinking about just soldering the resistors in and not dealing with the header pins at all. I'll be using a servo controller to handle all but perhaps 4 - 8 servos in my robot.
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I can handle complexity.. It's the SIMPLE things that confound me.
The Dynaplex Network - Home of The Octabot Project http://www.thedynaplex.org
Some sensors might be affected by having the resistors always present and some might be fine. Any input pin attached to a sensor (or other device) that operates at 5V has to have a protective series resistor. If the device operates at 3.3V, you don't need the resistor. Normally you don't use a series resistor on an output pin. The problem is that the Propeller initializes with all pins as inputs. If you have a device that sometimes lets 5V appear on its input pins, then you need a protective resistor. The safest thing is to always use them unless you have a specific situation where they'll create a problem (like driving an LED or other circuit that already has its own current limiting resistors).
Mike Green said...
Some sensors might be affected by having the resistors always present and some might be fine. Any input pin attached to a sensor (or other device) that operates at 5V has to have a protective series resistor. If the device operates at 3.3V, you don't need the resistor. Normally you don't use a series resistor on an output pin. The problem is that the Propeller initializes with all pins as inputs. If you have a device that sometimes lets 5V appear on its input pins, then you need a protective resistor.
Well, as far as I can tell for my robots, I will just need inputs on the PRC board, since I will be using a servo controller for most of the servos. So, just to be safe, I decided on a compromise - I am soldering resistors to the board edge side of the Propeller and just jumpering the breadboard side resistor positions. I figure I would be most likely to want to prototype sensors, so put the jumpers on that side of the Propeller. It also made more sense to me to have any servo connections on the side of the board closest to the edge.
It will be a miracle if this board works when I am done, and I will jump for joy if it does!
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I can handle complexity.. It's the SIMPLE things that confound me.
The Dynaplex Network - Home of The Octabot Project http://www.thedynaplex.org
Am I supposed to aquire my own EEPROM? There was not one in my kit. Everything else is there as far as I can tell. I got the complete kit.
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I can handle complexity.. It's the SIMPLE things that confound me.
The Dynaplex Network - Home of The Octabot Project http://www.thedynaplex.org
Comments
(1) hard wired 16 4.7K resistors on ports 8-15 and 16-23, used 8 2x3 pin headers for the 16 servo connectors
(2) put in 1.1K, 560, 270, 560 ohm resistors for pins 24-27, soldered the ends together and mounted an RCA jack
(3) used a low profile machine pin socket, open frame type with cross pieces cut off for the jumpers/resistors holes for pins 0-7
see first enclosed picture PRC2-7.jpg.
Now I took the Graphics Demo spin code and made what I thought should be the correct entry in the 'pins' variable of 'tvparams'. That was %011_0001. That got me exctly nowhere. Sp I basically ran through the 16 permutations of four bits and found %011_1100 and %011_1110 worked ... sort of ... see picture PRC2-8.jpg and you will see that I get a perfectly working demo EXCEPT I have 2-3 lines ever so slowly scrolling up the screen. OK, WHY?????
WHY #1 - why was %011_0001 wrong for pins 24-27, it seems the logical counterpart for %001_0101 for pins 12-15?
WHY #2 - why the slow scrolling lines?
tvparams long 0 'status long 1 'enable long %011_1100 'pins PRC 24-27 Broadcast lower nibble ???? long %0000 'modeAll you need to do to get TV object working is add the resistors and RCA jack. The logical place is pins 24-27. The values are, in order, 1.1K, 560, 270, and 560, and the code only requires the single change above in the calling routine. I will post an archive when I get it working right.
Now, again, does anyone have any idea why I get the slow scrolling lines across the display?
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cheers ... brian riley, n1bq, underhill center, vermont
See the K107 Serial LCD Controller at
www.wulfden.org/k107/
-Phil
Why did the original demo have %001_0101 which is broadcast.
OK, I tried the %011_0000 also ... and nada ... same output ... %011_0000, %011_1100, %011_1110 all produce the same clear, in color, graphics demo ... with 2-3 moderately crisp white lines equidistant spacing, slowly scrolling up the screen.
I then started to think, well I am using a Parallax 7.5volt wallwart to power the CPU, maybe there's something hinky there, so I switched to a 9 volt battery ... no smiles there either ... still 2-3 moderately crisp white lines equidistant spacing, very slowly scrolling up the screen.
Anyone else have any ideas ... ????
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cheers ... brian riley, n1bq, underhill center, vermont
See the K107 Serial LCD Controller at
www.wulfden.org/k107/
Actually, %001_0101 is baseband on the top nybble of the A8-A15 group. I tried %011_0000 on my PropSTICK, and it worked fine — except the animation would pause every now and then. That's when I realized that A24 and A25 are used by the demo program as mouse inputs. When I changed mouse.start(24,25) to mouse.start(0,0), everything worked normally.
I'm not sure how the mouse setting could cause white lines on your system, but it might be worth altering it to see.
-Phil
D'uh ... [noparse][[/noparse]sound of heel of palm impacting forehead] ... OK will give that a try, thank.
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cheers ... brian riley, n1bq, underhill center, vermont
See the K107 Serial LCD Controller at
www.wulfden.org/k107/
Anyway I changed the "6" to a "0" and hit F10 and _voila_ clean graphics display. So I F11-ed it and its now resident demo in the PRC. next stop beaus's 32 servo program and pare it down to 16 servos for this new baord with TV out and KB input ...
·· Thanks Phil ...
p.s. I cannot seem to find the new demo, the Graphics Demo on the Object Library is for the 4-pin PS2 drivers.
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cheers ... brian riley, n1bq, underhill center, vermont
See the K107 Serial LCD Controller at
www.wulfden.org/k107/
Anyway·I tried the "Graphics Palette" Demo and changed pins to %011_0000, but left mouse.start(24,25) as is. What it produced was the nomral demo, but the mouse cursor was wandering all over the screen obviously following the video output of pins 24/25 ... whenever it by chance wandered onto a color palette item it displayed the appropriate code ... It was interesting that on the Graphcs Demo it prodced the slwo scrolling set of lines ... it bolsters the arguement/idea of inter cog 'piping' or 'communications, by having· one cog read the output pins of another cog.
Is it against the law to have this much fun??????????????????
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cheers ... brian riley, n1bq, underhill center, vermont
See the K107 Serial LCD Controller at
www.wulfden.org/k107/
Now, here I sit, ready to start assembling my board, only to discover the voltage reg's aren't what's stated in the builder's notes I'v downloaded...
Can someone tell me how to identify which VREG is which?
Rob7, if your still interested, I'll make a new thread for it...
KK
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Propeller + Hardware - extra bits for the bit bucket =· 1 Coffeeless KaosKidd
·
OOOOPPPS, ya got me on that one, Mark slipped one by me. The two VRs are labeled LF33CV and LF50CV, one is 5 volt, one is 3.3 volt and they go where they are labeled 5v and 3v on the board. As you look at the board with the battery connectors towards you, U2 is the 5V regulator to the left, and U1 is the 3.3v regulator on the right.
As for the schematic, as any GOOD Parallax customer should well know by now an LM2940 is a 5 volt regulator, and even if the schematic were'nt so labeled, by elimination, that makes the LM2937 the 3.3 volt regulator.
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cheers ... brian riley, n1bq, underhill center, vermont
See the K107 Serial LCD Controller at
www.wulfden.org/k107/
Thanks... I got the part about the 2940=5 and 2937=3.3 I was missing the lf33=3.3 and lf50=5.0...
I just DL'd the newest notes... tonight's the night.... then it's on to some custom coding for a forum member....
Again, thanks for the info!
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Propeller + Hardware - extra bits for the bit bucket =· 1 Coffeeless KaosKidd
·
"Yes I am"
Rob7
You've done great work here! I'll be ordering one in a couple of days.
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I can handle complexity.. It's the SIMPLE things that confound me.
The Dynaplex Network
http://www.thedynaplex.org
I would like to see a version of the board without the breadboard that would fit into the same form factor as the Lynxmotion SSC-2 and Atom Bot Board - they have a nice little electronics carrier that fits in with their Servo Erector Set components. I would keep the servo connectors on 0 - 15 if you are going to go down to just 16. For pins you want to dedicate to a specific purpose, cound down from the high end. You might want to consider adding the hardware floating point coprocessor.
I just ordered my PRC today!
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I can handle complexity.. It's the SIMPLE things that confound me.
The Dynaplex Network
http://www.thedynaplex.org
Yes, I know about the floating point library. There are many ways of doing things. Just because the Propeller is capable of doing everything in software does not mean that is the way I would necessarily choose to use it.
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I can handle complexity.. It's the SIMPLE things that confound me.
The Dynaplex Network - Home of The Octabot Project
http://www.thedynaplex.org
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I can handle complexity.. It's the SIMPLE things that confound me.
The Dynaplex Network - Home of The Octabot Project
http://www.thedynaplex.org
Also, the holes for the two 6 pin jumper headers seems to be a bit too widely spaced.
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I can handle complexity.. It's the SIMPLE things that confound me.
The Dynaplex Network - Home of The Octabot Project
http://www.thedynaplex.org
(1) yes thats already been done, Russ Ferguson did it see some of hi pix earlier in this thread. and Mark originally porposed that it ciould be done.
(2) agreed, the two rows of three are too far apart to use a a 2x3 header, will fix hat in next revision if/when it happens
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cheers ... brian riley, n1bq, underhill center, vermont
See the K107 Serial LCD Controller at
www.wulfden.org/k107/
I took a stab at soldering the board up today and I am just not going to be able to do the assembly. It's nothing to do with the board, instructions, or other stuff like that. It's me. I just don't have the right tools right now, so will have to put the Propeller into a holding pattern until I can purchase a ready to use board like the PropStick, or something else ready made, or find somebody to finish this assembly for me.
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I can handle complexity.. It's the SIMPLE things that confound me.
The Dynaplex Network - Home of The Octabot Project
http://www.thedynaplex.org
Post Edited (linuxgeek) : 9/8/2006 12:57:40 AM GMT
Cheers,
Simon
I'll put it together for you if you pick up the shipping costs (however you want it shipped) to and from MA.
I appreciate the offer, but I would rather find somebody local. I'll check with our local Robotic clyb soon.
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I can handle complexity.. It's the SIMPLE things that confound me.
The Dynaplex Network - Home of The Octabot Project
http://www.thedynaplex.org
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I can handle complexity.. It's the SIMPLE things that confound me.
The Dynaplex Network - Home of The Octabot Project
http://www.thedynaplex.org
You will need a strong light and need to distnguish between the numbers 33 and 50 on them for the 3.3v and 5.0v
when held under a modest light, the 5.0v regulator backside of heat sink appears a bit 'white' versus the 3.3v regulator backsde of heatsink appears more 'silvery'
My eyes are shot as far as close up work is concerned and I wear reading glasses, but I have an illuminated round glass magnifier on a cantilevered arm I use for checking parts and fine soldering. I picked it up at a hamfest for $10. I also keep a cheap $2 magnifier glass in the top drawer of my tool chest for quick peeks.
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cheers ... brian riley, n1bq, underhill center, vermont
See the K107 Serial LCD Controller at
www.wulfden.org/k107/
Yes, I will definitely need some aid for my eyes. I didn't think my vision had gotten that bad yet, but I think it's more of a contrast problem between the dark part numbers and the dark part paclage.
Are the resistors really needed for attaching servos to the board, and if so why? While I won't normally be having the Propeller run servos, it might be nice to be able to once in awhile.
Would having the resitors in the circuit all the time affect other things like sensors in a negative way like make them not work? I have been thinking about just soldering the resistors in and not dealing with the header pins at all. I'll be using a servo controller to handle all but perhaps 4 - 8 servos in my robot.
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I can handle complexity.. It's the SIMPLE things that confound me.
The Dynaplex Network - Home of The Octabot Project
http://www.thedynaplex.org
Post Edited (linuxgeek) : 9/8/2006 7:55:08 PM GMT
Well, as far as I can tell for my robots, I will just need inputs on the PRC board, since I will be using a servo controller for most of the servos. So, just to be safe, I decided on a compromise - I am soldering resistors to the board edge side of the Propeller and just jumpering the breadboard side resistor positions. I figure I would be most likely to want to prototype sensors, so put the jumpers on that side of the Propeller. It also made more sense to me to have any servo connections on the side of the board closest to the edge.
It will be a miracle if this board works when I am done, and I will jump for joy if it does!
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I can handle complexity.. It's the SIMPLE things that confound me.
The Dynaplex Network - Home of The Octabot Project
http://www.thedynaplex.org
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I can handle complexity.. It's the SIMPLE things that confound me.
The Dynaplex Network - Home of The Octabot Project
http://www.thedynaplex.org
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Who says you have to have knowledge to use it?
I've killed a fly with my bare mind.
James L