I mentioned a few posts back that I was ready to start drilling the enclosure cover, which has now been completed. The machine has now been fastened to the cover and the stepper motor wires and the laser wires now pass through the cover and into the enclosure.
I must say that it is now starting to look like a real nice little machine.
Several hours ago, most of my missing parts were delivered, and all these parts pertain to the electrical system. For the next several days, I will be putting all of my focus into getting the electrical system all wired up, which entails controller board modifications, wiring up the switches, LEDs, stepper motors, and laser, as well as making provisions for two cooling fans.
At this point, I have given up on the piano hinge idea and still have no clue what I am going to do for a cover, however it is always at the back of my mind. The cover is my main hold up at this point
I will be taking a new set of photos very soon Just keep in mind that this is an experimental machine and it doesn't make any difference how well it looks, if I cannot get it to perform it's intended function.
I would imagine that I will most likely hold off on the Plum Crazy paint job and cover, until I get the machine working properly.
Makes sense to hold of on making the cover until you are sure the the equipment functions as intended. That way you can also mull over some ideas for it, The piano hinge on one side and two latches on the opposite side would work, as would four latches, but someone may come up with a better idea if you leave it until last.
Now that the machine is mounted onto the enclosure cover, enclosure cover removal is now quite cumbersome, and will most likely mar the paint job, if care is not taken. Additionally, I am also now worried about attaching a carrying handle to the machine cover, because the entire assembly is now getting quite heavy, and I fear all that weight might bend the enclosure cover, if I attach the machine cover to it with a carrying handle.
My current thoughts are to mount four round posts, with each post being in close proximity to an enclosure cover screw, and then mount a piece of square bar stock across a pair of posts, on each side, thus creating handles, for easy enclosure cover removal. The machine cover could then be mounted to these newly created handles, with threaded knobs. At which point, "I think" it "might be" safe to attach a carrying handle to the machine cover and support the weight, without bending the enclosure cover.
I would make a drawing to convey the look and idea more clearly, but I am too lazy for that at the moment
How about attaching the carrying handle on the side of the machine ? Might be more stable?
Believe I have thought about it. However, I have always been the kind of guy that likes to carry things to my side, instead of holding it up and out in front of me. That being said, it is still light enough and small enough to go either way, handles on the sides or one on top. Nothing is carved in stone at this point
No I was thinking of just one handle and transport it 90 degree tilted, while transporting the machine should sit on a 0/0 fixed position anyways and if that is then on the bottom (tilted) it should be quite save?
No I was thinking of just one handle and transport it 90 degree tilted, while transporting the machine should sit on a 0/0 fixed position anyways and if that is then on the bottom (tilted) it should be quite save?
Kind of like a suitcase?
Hmmmm.... Had not thought of that. Definitely a thought to ponder Thanks for the suggestion.
Just here to share a few thoughts about my project....
It was my intention to solder up my 20 pin SSOP MCP23008 I/O expander today, but I truly was not ready. I had to order a flux pen, as well as getting my 15 watt soldering iron back in good working condition, which included purchasing two new soldering tips and modifying them to fit my Radio Shack iron
After that, I got some much needed sleep, but now I am getting back to work on the project. Instead of working on the electronics like I intended, I have decided to do some more work on the enclosure. So tonight, I will be making the cut outs for the two fans, as well as mounting another terminal block for the AC connections. When I get done with those tasks, I will most likely solder on some leads for the pushbuttons and LEDs.
Good point. Looking at the DC Characteristics, there's no way that thing's gonna source enough current to drive an LED to maximum brightness.
Well that statement has me concerned, because as you all know, we all want our LEDs to be at their maximum brightness So I am going to take a good look at how I have the stepper drivers wired up, just to see if I can reclaim a few Propeller I/O pins, for the pushbuttons and LEDs.
And over the course of the next several days, I will be putting some more thought into Mike's suggestion about a carrying handle, as well as thinking about this handle and how it might affect my decision pertaining to the use of a piano hinge.
And over the course of the next several days, I will be putting some more thought into Mike's suggestion about a carrying handle, as well as thinking about this handle and how it might affect my decision pertaining to the use of a piano hinge.
Regardless of the piano hinge concept, I have decided to run with Mike's suggestion of mounting the handle to the side of the enclosure. In my next set of photos, this handle will most likely be mounted and visible.
Mike, thanks again for the suggestion. It was a fantastic idea.
And over the course of the next several days, I will be putting some more thought into Mike's suggestion about a carrying handle, as well as thinking about this handle and how it might affect my decision pertaining to the use of a piano hinge.
Regardless of the piano hinge concept, I have decided to run with Mike's suggestion of mounting the handle to the side of the enclosure. In my next set of photos, this handle will most likely be mounted and visible.
Mike, thanks again for the suggestion. It was a fantastic idea.
You can still use a piano hinge, and as long as the piano hinge is on the same side as the handle the enclosure will tend to stay closed when you are carrying it by the handle. I would also put a "cover shut" sense switch on the other side that would have the dual function of turning the laser off when the cover is open and latching it when shut.
PS, handle could be mounted on hinge to act as a cover stop when it is open.
As you know, it is hard to get the feel for something, unless it is in front of you, and you get to see all the minor details that might affect your suggestions, opinions, etc...
To help you understand my thought process and the problems that I face, I have altered one of the previous photographs.
First consider that the project board is just about in the middle of the enclosure. The X axis motor and laser wires come down through the cover on the right side of the enclosure, at just about midpoint of the enclosure, so the Y axis motor has been rotated to direct the wires towards the X axis motor and laser wires, so all wires on the underside of the enclosure cover is represented by the blue dot. To make all these wires as short as possible, I would want my piano hinge on the right side of the enclosure, which is represented by the red rectangle. As long as there is enough slop in the wire length, I should be able to open the cover on a hinge with no problems, provided I put the handle (represented by the light gray) on the left side of the enclosure. If I were to put the handle on the same side as the hinge, my X axis motor (represented by a yellow circle) would hit the handle, unless I added unnecessary wire length to the motors and laser, and rerouted them to the other side of the enclosure, which I do not want to do. As shown and described, I should be able to lift the cover with a hinge, and rest the main structure upon a terminal block cover, which is represented by a fuchsia circle.
Please note that from a top view, there will be very little clearance between the X axis motor mount and the piano hinge, but there is a enough for a cover to fit between them. I have not yet determined the exact clearance between these two items, but it is tight. So my current intentions are to create a rectangular aluminum cover for the main structure, with a view window, and another piano hinge at the rear of the main structure cover, which would attach to the enclosure cover, and latch at the front of the enclosure cover, indicated by the green line. Of course, at this point, unless the main structure cover was removed, and the enclosure cover was opened, the resting point would then become the main structure cover, instead of the terminal block cover.
I hope I presented that in a manner in which people can understand my thoughts
We have a somewhat different perspective on how to mount things. I thought the metal cover the motors and carriage were mounted on would be screwed to the base using the mounting holes that were already there, and that the safety enclosure would be a rectangular box shape that would be held in place by the hinge to allow it to be flipped open for access to the work area. With the handle and hinge on the same side the safety enclosure would naturally tend to be closed when transported, and using an inexpensive fixed handle would provide a stop for the safety enclosure when it is opened.
We have a somewhat different perspective on how to mount things.
One way or another, I have definitely put a lot of thought into this small machine. Please remember that I try to have a purpose for all machining that I commit myself to, and before rushing into anything, I attempt to think it all the way through, looking at both the pros and the cons.
Very shortly, I will provide a rendition which will show the end of my design and the use of Mike's suggestion.
I am hopeful that everyone can appreciate my vision in the upcoming image
Alrighty folks... Here is my complete vision and a rendition of what the machine will look like when it is finished.
The enclosure cover will not be hinged, but the main structure cover, which is shown in phantom, as well as the cover knob, will be hinged at the rear of the machine.
As bad luck would have it, I have been searching high and low for a cover solution, when in fact, I had ready access and documentation for it, but overlooked it, therefore I could not include it within my planning and drawings.
Now that I have found my cover solution, I regret placing my machine on the enclosure cover, in it's current location. With the cover solution, the machine needs to be moved forward and a new motor mount needs to be made for the X axis, as well as making a new part for this motor mount to bolt up to. Basically this means that I need to repair all the holes that I have made in the enclosure cover, because a replacement cover is unavailable and I am unwilling to buy a whole new enclosure, just for the cover
However, on the bright side of things, I now know how to finish off the machine and main structure, with readily available parts.
Basically this means that I need to repair all the holes that I have made in the enclosure cover, because a replacement cover is unavailable and I am unwilling to buy a whole new enclosure, just for the cover
Effit
I have just decided to buy a whole new enclosure with the cover that I need
EDIT: On the bright side, I will have a new enclosure bottom and a cover that needs to be repaired for another Mini LDI
Well folks, it has been a very long and stressful day for me, with lots of figuring, altering, and drawing. Determined as the end result, and as previously indicated, a new motor mount needs to be made, a new upright support for the X axis needs to be made, the main structure needs to be moved slightly to the left and slightly forward, and a new cover has been purchased.
A couple posts back, I attached a front view image of what the machine should look like when I am finished, and it is fairly accurate, with minor discrepancies. Now I am providing a top view image, of what the machine will look like, with the main structure cover shown in phantom once again.
Between these two images, those folks that are mechanically inclined and drawing savvy, should have a good understanding of what the machine will look like when it is complete.
At this point, I still have a lot of work to do, before I can start testing.
EDIT: I still need to come up with a good spot to store the detachable cord, and I suppose the most logical place will be inside the main structure cover.
I received quite a few of my missing parts today and the cover for the main structure of the machine should be showing up Tuesday. As for the other enclosure that I ordered, just to replace the cover that I drilled inappropriately, well that is currently on back order, like the last time. Hopefully I will get that enclosure within 1-1/2 to 2 weeks. In the meantime, while I wait, I will be attempting to finish up all the little odds and ends, that prevent me from painting and final assembly.
I know I have said this before, but I will say it again, it won't be long before I can test this machine.
I believe this is the window that I will be using for the machine, although not 100% certain. I will have to consult with them before making a purchase.
The main structure cover should be showing up shortly (1 minute ~ 3 hours) and of course, I am looking forward to the arrival of that part.
My progress has been slow over the last several days, but I still keep pushing forward.
I should have the carrying handle finished sometime tonight, as well as the new motor mount and new carriage support.
Although probably not the most time consuming, the two cover handles worry me the most, which definitely will not be done tonight These handles will each have four bends, and two threads per handle. Per handle, there will be two bends at ninety degrees and two bends at forty-five degree angles, and will most likely have two 8-32 internal threads, but that has not yet been determined. Regardless of the simplicity, it worries me, because I want it to be perfect.
I am striving for perfection with this machine, not only because it is necessary for accuracy, but I am also striving for the best of my best. I have designed and built more complicated machines, but I want this machine, which requires the utmost accuracy, to be my best work.
However, I do have another machine that is ready to slap together, which I am also very proud of that design, I will not give that machine the same TLC that I am giving this machine
When it is all said and done, this machine will be one nice prototype.
The main structure cover should be showing up shortly (1 minute ~ 3 hours) and of course, I am looking forward to the arrival of that part.
The part arrived as anticipated and of course, I am happy to have it in my possession, however this cover has been causing me a little grief, because it has several unwanted holes, on the top side, that need to be filled before painting. Normally this would not be to big of a problem, but the cover is powder coated, which makes it much more challenging. Since receiving the cover, I have been contemplating my best solution to fill these holes. This morning, I came up with my solution, which is, either utilize the holes or cut them out and make a bigger hole
I believe this is the window that I will be using for the machine, although not 100% certain. I will have to consult with them before making a purchase.
This acrylic window is 12" X 12" X 0.140" and the main structure cover is 16" X 12" X 6". Instead of cutting this acrylic and placing it on the front side of the cover, which would require the would be viewer to bend over for viewing purposes, I am now going to cut the top side of the cover and use the full 12" X 12" piece of acrylic, for top side viewing.
Oh yea baby
EDIT: At this point, failure is no longer an option.
This acrylic window is 12" X 12" X 0.140" and the main structure cover is 16" X 12" X 6". Instead of cutting this acrylic and placing it on the front side of the cover, which would require the would be viewer to bend over for viewing purposes, I am now going to cut the top side of the cover and use the full 12" X 12" piece of acrylic, for top side viewing.
This morning I have spent a fair amount of time at the drawing board, determining what can be done and what needs to be done, pertaining to the viewing window.
I have determined that I actually want and need a 10" X 14" window, instead of a 12" X 12" window. This stuff is not cheap, so I will have to check the cost tomorrow during the weekdays.
Just touching base with the would be readers of this thread.
Over the last couple of weeks, I have been solving layout issues, coming up with new ideas, etc.... I am almost at the point to where I can say, "The design is finished." However, the detachable cord issue still needs to be resolved, but I have several ideas to make it fit in with the rest of the design, of my new machine.
Yesterday, I ordered a bunch of new material and parts for this project, and by weeks end, I should have everything I need to finish this project (before testing), except for the acrylic safety shield, which I will most likely order today (probably not necessary and very expensive).
This is a BIG monetary and labor gamble, but I think I can conquer it. If not, I will have one nice looking machine that does nothing, but take up space
The *new* main structure cover, piano hinge, and lid have now been combined into a working assembly. However, this new assembly also requires additional work, such as lid locking and support. The lid locks will provide support and locking while the unit is lifted by the carrying handle and transported. Additionally, while the unit is stable and the lid is lifted to an open position, the lid will require support, to help prevent hinge damage and unnecessary strain on the machine structure.
As previously mentioned, storage for the detachable cord was an important concern. I have decided to combine the lid support and cord storage into assembly. The cord will be wrapped around this assembly for transportation and secured with heavy duty Velcro.
I have provided a new top side view, just to convey the idea.
As I get closer to the completion of this machine, the more proud I become of the overall design. Good, bad, or indifferent, I get more proud of this design everyday.
I cannot rush into the Plum Crazy paint job, because I am not finished with the machining necessary to build the machine. but I can visualize the outcome. This machine, may not be every man's dream, but I am certain, there will be men that wish they had this machine, upon completion
I will be glad that I designed it, built it, and programmed it
With the piano hinge now installed, connecting the enclosure with a lid, a center knob was definitely missing. As of today, I drilled the holes necessary for the sensor shroud (slotted optical switch) and a knob for the lid.
I have not smiled too much during this project, but a knob job always makes me smile. The knob and hinge work perfectly together
EDIT: Wash your minds out with soap! The knob is simply there for lifting the lid.
Comments
Have you seen what McMaster-Carr has to offer?
Yes, I do a lot of shopping at McMaster-Carr.
I must say that it is now starting to look like a real nice little machine.
Several hours ago, most of my missing parts were delivered, and all these parts pertain to the electrical system. For the next several days, I will be putting all of my focus into getting the electrical system all wired up, which entails controller board modifications, wiring up the switches, LEDs, stepper motors, and laser, as well as making provisions for two cooling fans.
At this point, I have given up on the piano hinge idea and still have no clue what I am going to do for a cover, however it is always at the back of my mind. The cover is my main hold up at this point
I will be taking a new set of photos very soon
I would imagine that I will most likely hold off on the Plum Crazy paint job and cover, until I get the machine working properly.
Now that the machine is mounted onto the enclosure cover, enclosure cover removal is now quite cumbersome, and will most likely mar the paint job, if care is not taken. Additionally, I am also now worried about attaching a carrying handle to the machine cover, because the entire assembly is now getting quite heavy, and I fear all that weight might bend the enclosure cover, if I attach the machine cover to it with a carrying handle.
My current thoughts are to mount four round posts, with each post being in close proximity to an enclosure cover screw, and then mount a piece of square bar stock across a pair of posts, on each side, thus creating handles, for easy enclosure cover removal. The machine cover could then be mounted to these newly created handles, with threaded knobs. At which point, "I think" it "might be" safe to attach a carrying handle to the machine cover and support the weight, without bending the enclosure cover.
I would make a drawing to convey the look and idea more clearly, but I am too lazy for that at the moment
Enjoy!
Mike
Believe I have thought about it. However, I have always been the kind of guy that likes to carry things to my side, instead of holding it up and out in front of me. That being said, it is still light enough and small enough to go either way, handles on the sides or one on top. Nothing is carved in stone at this point
Kind of like a suitcase?
Mike
Hmmmm.... Had not thought of that. Definitely a thought to ponder
Actually, I kind of like that idea.... It would cut down on the space needed to pass through doorways and other such obstacles.
Nice idea Mike.
It was my intention to solder up my 20 pin SSOP MCP23008 I/O expander today, but I truly was not ready. I had to order a flux pen, as well as getting my 15 watt soldering iron back in good working condition, which included purchasing two new soldering tips and modifying them to fit my Radio Shack iron
After that, I got some much needed sleep, but now I am getting back to work on the project. Instead of working on the electronics like I intended, I have decided to do some more work on the enclosure. So tonight, I will be making the cut outs for the two fans, as well as mounting another terminal block for the AC connections. When I get done with those tasks, I will most likely solder on some leads for the pushbuttons and LEDs.
Referring back to the MCP23008 IC... I am very close to changing my mind about using this IC, because of a post that I found in this thread: https://forums.parallax.com/discussion/135052/mcp23008-sourcing-voltage
In this thread, Phil stated:
Well that statement has me concerned, because as you all know, we all want our LEDs to be at their maximum brightness
And over the course of the next several days, I will be putting some more thought into Mike's suggestion about a carrying handle, as well as thinking about this handle and how it might affect my decision pertaining to the use of a piano hinge.
Regardless of the piano hinge concept, I have decided to run with Mike's suggestion of mounting the handle to the side of the enclosure. In my next set of photos, this handle will most likely be mounted and visible.
Mike, thanks again for the suggestion. It was a fantastic idea.
You can still use a piano hinge, and as long as the piano hinge is on the same side as the handle the enclosure will tend to stay closed when you are carrying it by the handle. I would also put a "cover shut" sense switch on the other side that would have the dual function of turning the laser off when the cover is open and latching it when shut.
PS, handle could be mounted on hinge to act as a cover stop when it is open.
As you know, it is hard to get the feel for something, unless it is in front of you, and you get to see all the minor details that might affect your suggestions, opinions, etc...
To help you understand my thought process and the problems that I face, I have altered one of the previous photographs.
First consider that the project board is just about in the middle of the enclosure. The X axis motor and laser wires come down through the cover on the right side of the enclosure, at just about midpoint of the enclosure, so the Y axis motor has been rotated to direct the wires towards the X axis motor and laser wires, so all wires on the underside of the enclosure cover is represented by the blue dot. To make all these wires as short as possible, I would want my piano hinge on the right side of the enclosure, which is represented by the red rectangle. As long as there is enough slop in the wire length, I should be able to open the cover on a hinge with no problems, provided I put the handle (represented by the light gray) on the left side of the enclosure. If I were to put the handle on the same side as the hinge, my X axis motor (represented by a yellow circle) would hit the handle, unless I added unnecessary wire length to the motors and laser, and rerouted them to the other side of the enclosure, which I do not want to do. As shown and described, I should be able to lift the cover with a hinge, and rest the main structure upon a terminal block cover, which is represented by a fuchsia circle.
Please note that from a top view, there will be very little clearance between the X axis motor mount and the piano hinge, but there is a enough for a cover to fit between them. I have not yet determined the exact clearance between these two items, but it is tight. So my current intentions are to create a rectangular aluminum cover for the main structure, with a view window, and another piano hinge at the rear of the main structure cover, which would attach to the enclosure cover, and latch at the front of the enclosure cover, indicated by the green line. Of course, at this point, unless the main structure cover was removed, and the enclosure cover was opened, the resting point would then become the main structure cover, instead of the terminal block cover.
I hope I presented that in a manner in which people can understand my thoughts
You do NOT need a piano hinge for the enclosure but for the not yet done top cover to protect your eyes from the laser if some mishap happens.
like someone here has in his signature 'Don't look into the laser with your remaining good eye'
Sure right now you need to open and close the enclosure while working on it, but once finished the operator has no need to open the base.
He/She will just need to move the not yet done top cover.
Just keep the enclosure screwed like it is, and forget any view window. Stay save.
Anyway this looks very professional right now, I just imagined it painted, and I think it will be quite amazing looking.
Enjoy!
Mike
One way or another, I have definitely put a lot of thought into this small machine. Please remember that I try to have a purpose for all machining that I commit myself to, and before rushing into anything, I attempt to think it all the way through, looking at both the pros and the cons.
Very shortly, I will provide a rendition which will show the end of my design and the use of Mike's suggestion.
I am hopeful that everyone can appreciate my vision in the upcoming image
The enclosure cover will not be hinged, but the main structure cover, which is shown in phantom, as well as the cover knob, will be hinged at the rear of the machine.
Now that I have found my cover solution, I regret placing my machine on the enclosure cover, in it's current location. With the cover solution, the machine needs to be moved forward and a new motor mount needs to be made for the X axis, as well as making a new part for this motor mount to bolt up to. Basically this means that I need to repair all the holes that I have made in the enclosure cover, because a replacement cover is unavailable and I am unwilling to buy a whole new enclosure, just for the cover
However, on the bright side of things, I now know how to finish off the machine and main structure, with readily available parts.
Effit
I have just decided to buy a whole new enclosure with the cover that I need
EDIT: On the bright side, I will have a new enclosure bottom and a cover that needs to be repaired for another Mini LDI
A couple posts back, I attached a front view image of what the machine should look like when I am finished, and it is fairly accurate, with minor discrepancies. Now I am providing a top view image, of what the machine will look like, with the main structure cover shown in phantom once again.
Between these two images, those folks that are mechanically inclined and drawing savvy, should have a good understanding of what the machine will look like when it is complete.
At this point, I still have a lot of work to do, before I can start testing.
EDIT: I still need to come up with a good spot to store the detachable cord, and I suppose the most logical place will be inside the main structure cover.
I received quite a few of my missing parts today and the cover for the main structure of the machine should be showing up Tuesday. As for the other enclosure that I ordered, just to replace the cover that I drilled inappropriately, well that is currently on back order, like the last time. Hopefully I will get that enclosure within 1-1/2 to 2 weeks. In the meantime, while I wait, I will be attempting to finish up all the little odds and ends, that prevent me from painting and final assembly.
I know I have said this before, but I will say it again, it won't be long before I can test this machine.
https://cascadelaser.com/lpw-cd2.html
My progress has been slow over the last several days, but I still keep pushing forward.
I should have the carrying handle finished sometime tonight, as well as the new motor mount and new carriage support.
Although probably not the most time consuming, the two cover handles worry me the most, which definitely will not be done tonight
I am striving for perfection with this machine, not only because it is necessary for accuracy, but I am also striving for the best of my best. I have designed and built more complicated machines, but I want this machine, which requires the utmost accuracy, to be my best work.
However, I do have another machine that is ready to slap together, which I am also very proud of that design, I will not give that machine the same TLC that I am giving this machine
When it is all said and done, this machine will be one nice prototype.
The part arrived as anticipated and of course, I am happy to have it in my possession, however this cover has been causing me a little grief, because it has several unwanted holes, on the top side, that need to be filled before painting. Normally this would not be to big of a problem, but the cover is powder coated, which makes it much more challenging. Since receiving the cover, I have been contemplating my best solution to fill these holes. This morning, I came up with my solution, which is, either utilize the holes or cut them out and make a bigger hole
This acrylic window is 12" X 12" X 0.140" and the main structure cover is 16" X 12" X 6". Instead of cutting this acrylic and placing it on the front side of the cover, which would require the would be viewer to bend over for viewing purposes, I am now going to cut the top side of the cover and use the full 12" X 12" piece of acrylic, for top side viewing.
Oh yea baby
EDIT: At this point, failure is no longer an option.
This morning I have spent a fair amount of time at the drawing board, determining what can be done and what needs to be done, pertaining to the viewing window.
I have determined that I actually want and need a 10" X 14" window, instead of a 12" X 12" window. This stuff is not cheap, so I will have to check the cost tomorrow during the weekdays.
Just touching base with the would be readers of this thread.
Over the last couple of weeks, I have been solving layout issues, coming up with new ideas, etc.... I am almost at the point to where I can say, "The design is finished." However, the detachable cord issue still needs to be resolved, but I have several ideas to make it fit in with the rest of the design, of my new machine.
Yesterday, I ordered a bunch of new material and parts for this project, and by weeks end, I should have everything I need to finish this project (before testing), except for the acrylic safety shield, which I will most likely order today (probably not necessary and very expensive).
This is a BIG monetary and labor gamble, but I think I can conquer it. If not, I will have one nice looking machine that does nothing, but take up space
The *new* main structure cover, piano hinge, and lid have now been combined into a working assembly. However, this new assembly also requires additional work, such as lid locking and support. The lid locks will provide support and locking while the unit is lifted by the carrying handle and transported. Additionally, while the unit is stable and the lid is lifted to an open position, the lid will require support, to help prevent hinge damage and unnecessary strain on the machine structure.
As previously mentioned, storage for the detachable cord was an important concern. I have decided to combine the lid support and cord storage into assembly. The cord will be wrapped around this assembly for transportation and secured with heavy duty Velcro.
I have provided a new top side view, just to convey the idea.
As I get closer to the completion of this machine, the more proud I become of the overall design. Good, bad, or indifferent, I get more proud of this design everyday.
I cannot rush into the Plum Crazy paint job, because I am not finished with the machining necessary to build the machine. but I can visualize the outcome. This machine, may not be every man's dream, but I am certain, there will be men that wish they had this machine, upon completion
I will be glad that I designed it, built it, and programmed it
With the piano hinge now installed, connecting the enclosure with a lid, a center knob was definitely missing. As of today, I drilled the holes necessary for the sensor shroud (slotted optical switch) and a knob for the lid.
I have not smiled too much during this project, but a knob job always makes me smile. The knob and hinge work perfectly together
EDIT: Wash your minds out with soap! The knob is simply there for lifting the lid.