As a fellow Hoosier (at least originally) to another, it's the least I can do. Your projects are always daunting in terms of scope/difficulty. Thus, it's possible for life to get "in the way" or otherwise alter one's plans mid-way through, as happened to you when your mom had a stroke. And, of course, it's always possible to simply run out of steam on such a large project, as I believe happened during the rebuilding of the walls of Jericho, So, I wish you sufficient "steam" (or mortar) for your project. But steam or not, you've learned a lot getting this far.
The way I see it, I am on the downhill run at this point, regardless of whether the project is a success or not. It certainly will not be too much longer before I have those steppers moving the table and laser head, as well as shooting a UV laser beam onto a piece of PCB.
I certainly believe that I will eventually be successful with this project, however I may have to fidget with bearing tolerances and such, for fine tuning, as well as getting a grasp on how to get the laser dot that I want.
In the end, by going the raster route, I do believe my biggest problem will become speed, but hopefully I can toy with various laser diodes to speed things up, which will all be dependent upon the film used on the pcbs.
If you have been following my other threads, where I have divulged bits and pieces about various aspects of the design and various changes, then you will know, I am now shooting for chic, instead of sleek.
This entails the addition of a NEMA 1 enclosure as a base for the machine. Looking back now, I was only dreaming of a sleek design, which would have never become a reality for various reasons. The NEMA 1 enclosure provides plenty of room for storage of various components, as well as being a canvass for the user interface.
The downside of using the NEMA 1 enclosure, is that the size I chose was special order, and so I was possibly looking at a lead time of 4 weeks. So in the meantime, I have been designing around this specific size of enclosure and ordering various parts needed to make the machine operational. Most of my parts, including the enclosure, should be arriving early to mid-time next week, with the exception of a USB extension cable, which won't be arriving until December 24. I do not understand the big delay for the cable, but it is what it is
All things now considered, hopefully I will have the machine operational by January 1st. However this does not mean in any way that it will be fully functional at that point, but all keys aspects of the machine should be completed by that time.
I do not know what people or how many people may be following this thread, but for the sake of providing my fellow forum members with some reading material, I will share some of my thoughts and progress of this project.
After the last photo, of this project, several posts back, I have just been fiddling with this and that, designing various other aspects of the machine, researching parts, ordering parts, and waiting for those parts to arrive.
To be perfectly honest, I am putting some of my best work into this machine, because I want it to be successful. As I progress, the machine or prototype, just keeps getting better and better, and I must admit that I am proud of the design and the work I have completed so far. I do believe that this machine will have serious electrical prototyping potential, providing I can speed things up.
While doing some brief research on LDI, in the wee hours of the morning, I came across an article which stated that LDI for PCBs is a raster process, but I only found one source, so I am unsure of the validity. However, if this is true, they must either be using a polygon mirror for their raster process or they are using a much more powerful laser than what I originally planned for this machine, just to speed things up. After much needed sleep, I am now researching the possibility of increasing the power of the laser head.
Sometime later today or perhaps even tomorrow, I will provide a few more photos, just to show how the machine is progressing. However, I must admit that the progress is slow going without the enclosure or other parts.
Since I will be using this film, I really need to get a good grasp on Part 3 of the datasheet, which will basically tell me, how powerful a laser I can use and just how fast I can move the laser head.
Part 3 of that linked document, contains a table, which has two rows of RST values. As far as I can determine, at this point, I do believe that table contains an error. I believe one of those table rows should be SST, instead of RST.
In this similar table, there is a row of RST values and a row of SST values, instead of two rows of RST values.
By assuming that there is an error, in the table of the first datasheet, and after reviewing this second unrelated datasheet, I am now having a much better understanding, especially after reading the notes, pertaining to Part 3 of the unrelated datasheet. These notes clearly define RST and SST, and they also provide information on the equipment used to measure the Exposure Energy. However, I highly doubt that I would ever be able to get my hands on that type of equipment.
Prior to finding this second datasheet, I has already assumed that RST values pertained to some type of Step test used to measure exposure. The second datasheet simply verified my assumption, as well as providing other useful additional information.
These notes clearly define RST and SST, and they also provide information on the equipment used to measure the Exposure Energy. However, I highly doubt that I would ever be able to get my hands on that type of equipment.
These notes indicate the use of a International Light Radiometer Model# IL-1400A with a Super Slim UV Probe Model# SSL001A
After a quick search for the IL-1400A, I now see that a used unit can be purchased for $400~$900. That is definitely within reach The SSL001A is a bit more elusive, but I will get to the bottom of it
I am really surprised that I can get access to this type of equipment. It just keeps getting better.
I just found another video and this guy seems very close to having it all figured out. In many respects, our machines are similar, but his machine is much bigger and he is using a screw driven actuator to move the work bed.
For those folks who are following this thread, I do apologize for not providing photos as I promised, but I have been busy with other.....
My enclosure arrived today and I am pretty excited about that
The main delay at this point is that I ordered an inappropriate power switch, but a new one should be here Monday, at which point, I should have the most important components for bringing this project closer to completion.
I do have an image of what the machine should look like without the intended future lid. However, this image does not show the microSD card holder or the USB programming port, which will go underneath the power switch,
Anyhow, here is a close representation of what the machine should look like. As I said, there will also be a lid in the future.
While many here are excited about Chipmas, which I would be also, if I had a P2, but since I don't, I must get my excitement from my current project, and tomorrow will indeed be an exciting day for me. Tomorrow I will be drilling out the enclosure for the user interface and mounting the machine, as well as prepping it for the Plum Crazy paint job. However, it may be slow going, since many of the cutouts will be a tad difficult, such as the ones for the USB, the MicroSD, the LCD, and the power inlet.
I must admit that it will most likely be a bit stressful, because I want it to turn out perfect, but still, I am looking very forward to getting this enclosure ready for paint.
While others are getting P2 development boards, my power switch came a day early
I do love your attention to details, I personally would build a mess just to get it running first. I actually think your decision to paint it with that plum color is a very good one. Like @DiverBob you spend a lot of time on details before finally building it. I somehow admire that ability but sadly do not have it.
Things I build do unfortunately not look like I bought them in some store. Nobody of the people I show them to would assume that. But at least some of them worked as planned.
You on the other hand have a quite wide range of workmanship, from bending wire fast over melting metal to lasering PCBs. I guess there where a lot other project you did not mention.
I took care of my mum for 8 years, keeping my fulltime job as programmer, working from moms home. I do know exactly what burden you are taking on there, but in my opinion it is our responsibility to take care of them elders as long as possible.
There will be moments when you think that it is just to much, but try to hold on, it is the right thing to do. My advice is that you find one or two reliable people able to relief you at least one day a week. I did not do that for the first couple of years and that was a mistake in the hindsight. Even if you try you will not be able to handle it by yourself.
Now I sound like a preacher, but I really would like you to avoid the mistakes I made.
Back to your project, it looks pretty cool so far. I (still) have a 3D printer, very old and currently not working anymore. It had a user interface like you describe, basically. So you insert a SD card, call up some menu to calibrate if needed and select a print file.
This allows PC independent operation and is - at least for 3D printing - a huge plus because 3D printing is SLOW. Do you have a estimate over the time it will take to burn a complete PCB? Because that will be a deciding factor for the design. If it goes quite fast, switching the SD card all the time might be not so user friendly, then PC connection might be better.
Thanks for the kind words and Merry Christmas to you.
I took care of my mum for 8 years, keeping my fulltime job as programmer, working from moms home.
Eight years is a very long time and I applaud you, it could not have been easy holding on that long. Counting the time of my mother's cancer treatment, I am now at the two year mark, however the stroke was one year and six months ago, and that is when it became really difficult. Strokes are a monster. I am already at the end of my rope. Finding a reliable person, is a very difficult task, but then finding one that is also trustworthy, knowledgeable, caring, and physically capable of caring for her, well that is a very tall order to fill. I had a couple of women helping me occasionally, but they both lacked either several or a couple of the qualities I mentioned, and of course the money dwindled. Admittedly, I will have to find someone, because 24/7 is getting a bit old and very very stressful.
As for the project, I did work on drilling out the enclosure yesterday, and I just got back to it about 2 hours ago. Sadly, my drill press would not accommodate the enclosure, and I have to do everything the old fashion way. It looks as though my USB cutout, might not be as perfect as I would like, but I do not think that it will appear to be a major flaw. One way or another, since I am doing this the old school way, it will definitely take me a little time to make this enclosure look good. At this point, I have all the push button switches and LEDs fitting very nicely, and I am currently working on dressing up the LCD cutout.
Do you have a estimate over the time it will take to burn a complete PCB?
I tried to estimate it once before, but I do believe my guesstimation was way off. To be perfectly honest, I do not have any clue at this point. However, I think a lot will depend upon the film and laser being used. I will undoubtedly try to make it as fast as possible
As for the Plum Crazy paint.... It is a very nice color, but I am not looking forward to painting this thing, because that paint really stinks, and as you know, it is winter time. However, when I get the painting done, I will be one happy guy, or at least as far as this project goes. I need to get this one to the experimental stage before spring time, which I am sure I will, because I have another machine ready to build, but it requires nice weather for welding.
I (still) have a 3D printer, very old and currently not working anymore.
Why isn't it working? Just not interested anymore?
I had to quit working for the night, but before I stopped, I decided to install some of the user interface components, just so I could take a Christmas photo and let you guys see the progress. Unlike myself, I would imagine that most folks actually have a life and are celebrating Christmas with friends and family, instead of reading my boring posts
In the photo you will see that I have not worked on the USB cutout yet, which is in the lower left corner. One of the holes is slightly off, so the cutout will be a little larger than what I wanted, but it'll do. Additionally, I did not install the LCD display, because I still need to order the proper standoffs.
Anyhow... Here is what the LDI prototype looks like on Christmas Day
...
Why isn't it working? Just not interested anymore?
I got frustrated with the quality of the prints. So it went into the shed for some time and now the threaded rods used for the z-axis are rusted. My sisters from Germany came over and took mum home 6 month ago and I am still recovering from taking care of her by myself for that long duration.
Mum has dementia and for the last couple of years I could basically not leave her alone. And as you mentioned finding and paying for help is a constant challenge.
I was able to buy myself a house since we will need to sell mums place and all of my electronic stuff is still in boxes. I just rummaged thru them to find a micro USB cable to fire up my chipmas present, and YES my P2-ES is working.
Well that doesn't sound too hard to fix, but print quality is quite a different issue.
I am still recovering from taking care of her
I once read that it can sometimes take up to five years to return to normalcy after being in a caretaker's position, as far as stress, etc... are concerned.
Mum has dementia and for the last couple of years I could basically not leave her alone.
Yea, my mother was diagnosed with dementia soon after her stroke and she continually gets worse. Sometimes it is so frustrating and aggravating, while at other times, it can seem outright comical.
My brother kept talking like being a caretaker would be a breeze, and told him to research the facts. He was amazed to find that some caretakers end up being diagnosed with PTSD. Of course he has now been enlightened, but still refuses to assist. Truly a donkey.
My original intention was to do some more work on the enclosure today, but instead, I had to do some more design work for the power inlet and circuit breaker, and while I was at it, I decided to start getting my power supply ready.
As previously mentioned in this thread, as well as another thread, within this forum, I had a dream of keeping the machine sleek and using a laptop power supply for running the machine, but then reality set in upon close inspection of the design. Anyway I have had this RadioShack Micronta linear power supply sitting around for several years, and I determined long ago that this power supply would be perfect for this small machine. It is a Micronta 22-120 and various photos can be seen here: .
After severe modification, this same power supply is shown below. I will have to do some desoldering and resoldering to get the wire lengths that I want and need, as well as a couple of other modifications that I intend to do. Additionally, I will also be making some standoffs for this power supply. After this is done, I will then get back to preparing the enclosure.
So without further delay, here is the modified Micronta 22-120, 13.8VDC, 2.5A.
Yesterday was a non-starter for this project, because I was feeling very lazy for some odd reason or another. However, after deciding not to make my own standoffs for the power supply, I did manage to order a bunch of standoffs yesterday, for both the power supply and the various circuit boards.
Starting at 3:30 AM this morning, I did a little more layout, so that when I do manage to start working on the enclosure again, later this morning, I will have quite a bit to keep me busy, and hopefully I will get quite a bit done.
My hope is to get the main portion of the enclosure all drilled and machined sometime today, with the exception of the holes needed for the circuit boards, which still all needs to be planned out.
One thing is for sure... I keep getting closer and closer to being able to fire this machine up.
If a picture is worth a thousand words, then these three photos should convey that Brucey is almost ready for a Plum Crazy paint job and Propeller programming
I am much closer at this point. I could actually power up the Propeller Project Board, with about five minutes of work, and start programming, but there is quite a bit more to do, before getting carried away.
I will most likely add a couple of 12V fans at the rear of the enclosure, to get rid of the heat.
Additionally, the Propeller Project Board is going to require some serious surgery Instead of making a separate circuit board for IO expansion, which is needed for the push buttons and LEDs, I have decided to get a MCP23008 in the 20 pin SSOP package and solder it to the 64-pin SMT Pads & Pin Access of the Propeller Project Board. It will be my first attempt at soldering a surface mount component I am almost certain there will be a little profanity
Looks like good progress Bruce. I used to sell Gerber LDI's in the late 90's for $200K+. It would be great to get a much cheaper version into the hands of DIY'ers.
Yes, there is some progress, but since I need additional parts, the holiday slow me down. I will order my parts today and hopefully get them by Friday, although Monday or Tuesday seems more likely.
I used to sell Gerber LDI's in the late 90's for $200K+.
Hopefully there was a nice commission on those sales
It would be great to get a much cheaper version into the hands of DIY'ers.
Dependent upon the physical construction, the manufacturing process, etc...., I believe it would be out of the price range of most DIY'ers, but I am sure it could be a valuable asset to electrical engineers designing circuit boards. However, if an LDI was created by printer manufacturers, using similar methods of construction as for printers, then I could foresee hobby LDIs within the price range of many DIY'ers.
Without any labor included, the NEMA 1 enclosure and the two 0.9 degree stepper motors cost $150, and then if you add the cost of all the other parts, there is a notable investment, for something so small. Additionally, to manufacture my LDI design efficiently, a well equipped machine shop would be a definite necessity.
EDIT: With that being said, I am doing my very best to make the Mini LDI 20.25 Sq. In. a nice prototype, just in case it actually works well, then it might have commercial potential and possibilities.
Hopefully there was a nice commission on those sales
I used to sell Gerber LDI's in the late 90's for $200K+.
Ha! I was the Systems Engineer that would talk to the engineers that were going to use the Laser Printers. The Salesmen would get our foot in the door, then I would have to do all the tech talk to sell it. I would get a dinner and drinks out of a sale. The 10K went to the salesman.
Ha! I was the Systems Engineer that would talk to the engineers that were going to use the Laser Printers. The Salesmen would get our foot in the door, then I would have to do all the tech talk to sell it. I would get a dinner and drinks out of a sale. The 10K went to the salesman.
That is horrible and unfair. Employers can be such ___.
My stance has always been, pay me my worth. I can buy my own food and drinks. I have worked some horrible and unfair employers myself.
Okay.... I am getting ready to start drilling the enclosure cover, so that the machine may be mounted and wires may be run.
From the factory, the cover of the enclosure is intended to be fastened with four screws.
As I was doing the layout for my holes, I came up with a new idea, or should I say, a new idea for this machine. At this point, I am seriously contemplating using only two screws for the cover, on the right hand side of the machine, and putting an aluminum piano hinge on the left side. The piano hinge would make it very easy to test and work on the inside electronics. Under normal circumstances, I would not hesitate to do this, but in this instance, I am a little worried that the hinge will have to much slop and permit vibration while the machine is running.
Just had a new idea....
So I use the piano hinge as stated, but I also make two holes in the piano hinge to accept the original two cover screws Hmmmmm...
My only worry now about this piano hinge is the design of a good cover for the entire machine, to prevent accidental viewing of the laser.
Okay.... I am getting ready to start drilling the enclosure cover, so that the machine may be mounted and wires may be run.
From the factory, the cover of the enclosure is intended to be fastened with four screws.
As I was doing the layout for my holes, I came up with a new idea, or should I say, a new idea for this machine. At this point, I am seriously contemplating using only two screws for the cover, on the right hand side of the machine, and putting an aluminum piano hinge on the left side. The piano hinge would make it very easy to test and work on the inside electronics. Under normal circumstances, I would not hesitate to do this, but in this instance, I am a little worried that the hinge will have to much slop and permit vibration while the machine is running.
Just had a new idea....
So I use the piano hinge as stated, but I also make two holes in the piano hinge to accept the original two cover screws Hmmmmm...
My only worry now about this piano hinge is the design of a good cover for the entire machine, to prevent accidental viewing of the laser.
Just sharing some thoughts.
I have used piano hinges in a few projects over the years and have never seen any noticeable slop in them. Found them to be an excellent way to mount the electronics and displays/indicators while also allowing easy access.
In looking at the pictures you posted the only problem I can see for using a piano hinge on your housing would be how to mount it. The top lip the cover fastens to is too narrow for a hinge and would also prevent mounting it on the inside. Only options I can see are to mount it on the outside of the case or remove the lip. The other suggestion I would make is to spot weld the hinge to the side and cover if you go that route.
The use of the piano hinge will ultimately be based upon the cover for the machine, although I am really liking the piano hinge idea.
Only options I can see are to mount it on the outside of the case
Yea.. My thoughts are to mount one leg of the hinge to the outside "side" of the enclosure and the other leg to the top of the cover. However I am now thinking that I should just use a bare steel piano hinge and paint it the Plum Crazy color, just for ease, without drastically altering the enclosure. If I do not like it, then I can always remove the hinge and fill the holes, which would also eliminate welding.
However, as I said, it will all be based upon the cover for the machine, which will have a carrying handle on top.
Comments
Thanks for sharing the video. I do believe there is hope for this project
The way I see it, I am on the downhill run at this point, regardless of whether the project is a success or not. It certainly will not be too much longer before I have those steppers moving the table and laser head, as well as shooting a UV laser beam onto a piece of PCB.
I certainly believe that I will eventually be successful with this project, however I may have to fidget with bearing tolerances and such, for fine tuning, as well as getting a grasp on how to get the laser dot that I want.
In the end, by going the raster route, I do believe my biggest problem will become speed, but hopefully I can toy with various laser diodes to speed things up, which will all be dependent upon the film used on the pcbs.
If you have been following my other threads, where I have divulged bits and pieces about various aspects of the design and various changes, then you will know, I am now shooting for chic, instead of sleek.
This entails the addition of a NEMA 1 enclosure as a base for the machine. Looking back now, I was only dreaming of a sleek design, which would have never become a reality for various reasons. The NEMA 1 enclosure provides plenty of room for storage of various components, as well as being a canvass for the user interface.
The downside of using the NEMA 1 enclosure, is that the size I chose was special order, and so I was possibly looking at a lead time of 4 weeks. So in the meantime, I have been designing around this specific size of enclosure and ordering various parts needed to make the machine operational. Most of my parts, including the enclosure, should be arriving early to mid-time next week, with the exception of a USB extension cable, which won't be arriving until December 24. I do not understand the big delay for the cable, but it is what it is
All things now considered, hopefully I will have the machine operational by January 1st. However this does not mean in any way that it will be fully functional at that point, but all keys aspects of the machine should be completed by that time.
After the last photo, of this project, several posts back, I have just been fiddling with this and that, designing various other aspects of the machine, researching parts, ordering parts, and waiting for those parts to arrive.
To be perfectly honest, I am putting some of my best work into this machine, because I want it to be successful. As I progress, the machine or prototype, just keeps getting better and better, and I must admit that I am proud of the design and the work I have completed so far. I do believe that this machine will have serious electrical prototyping potential, providing I can speed things up.
While doing some brief research on LDI, in the wee hours of the morning, I came across an article which stated that LDI for PCBs is a raster process, but I only found one source, so I am unsure of the validity. However, if this is true, they must either be using a polygon mirror for their raster process or they are using a much more powerful laser than what I originally planned for this machine, just to speed things up. After much needed sleep, I am now researching the possibility of increasing the power of the laser head.
I have not discussed this much, but I intend to be using the Riston® LDI8000 series resist film. The datasheet for this series of film can be found here: dupont.com/content/dam/dupont/products-and-services/electronic-and-electrical-materials/printed-circuit-board-materials/documents/DEC-LDI8000-DataSheet.pdf. Since I will be using this film, I really need to get a good grasp on Part 3 of the datasheet, which will basically tell me, how powerful a laser I can use and just how fast I can move the laser head. Any help in this area would be greatly appreciated.
Sometime later today or perhaps even tomorrow, I will provide a few more photos, just to show how the machine is progressing. However, I must admit that the progress is slow going without the enclosure or other parts.
Part 3 of that linked document, contains a table, which has two rows of RST values. As far as I can determine, at this point, I do believe that table contains an error. I believe one of those table rows should be SST, instead of RST.
In another datasheet, of an unrelated film product from DuPont, there is also a Part 3 Exposure section, which contains a very similar table. This document can be found here: dupont.com/content/dam/dupont/products-and-services/electronic-and-electrical-materials/printed-circuit-board-materials/documents/DEC-Riston-PM200-DataSheet.pdf
In this similar table, there is a row of RST values and a row of SST values, instead of two rows of RST values.
By assuming that there is an error, in the table of the first datasheet, and after reviewing this second unrelated datasheet, I am now having a much better understanding, especially after reading the notes, pertaining to Part 3 of the unrelated datasheet. These notes clearly define RST and SST, and they also provide information on the equipment used to measure the Exposure Energy. However, I highly doubt that I would ever be able to get my hands on that type of equipment.
Prior to finding this second datasheet, I has already assumed that RST values pertained to some type of Step test used to measure exposure. The second datasheet simply verified my assumption, as well as providing other useful additional information.
As I understand it now, there are two separate tests, one test is for measuring exposure energy and the second test should be the length of the exposure. The length of the exposure, should be either an RST value or an SST value. For more information about obtaining these RST or SST values, please refer to this document: dupont.com/content/dam/dupont/products-and-services/electronic-and-electrical-materials/printed-circuit-board-materials/documents/DEC-Riston-Stouffer-Density-Tablets.pdf
From my last post....
These notes indicate the use of a International Light Radiometer Model# IL-1400A with a Super Slim UV Probe Model# SSL001A
After a quick search for the IL-1400A, I now see that a used unit can be purchased for $400~$900. That is definitely within reach
I am really surprised that I can get access to this type of equipment. It just keeps getting better.
I just wish I was as far along as he is in this video: https://youtube.com/watch?v=TIDV1zXWXNY&feature=youtu.be
My enclosure arrived today and I am pretty excited about that
The main delay at this point is that I ordered an inappropriate power switch, but a new one should be here Monday, at which point, I should have the most important components for bringing this project closer to completion.
I do have an image of what the machine should look like without the intended future lid. However, this image does not show the microSD card holder or the USB programming port, which will go underneath the power switch,
Anyhow, here is a close representation of what the machine should look like. As I said, there will also be a lid in the future.
I must admit that it will most likely be a bit stressful, because I want it to turn out perfect, but still, I am looking very forward to getting this enclosure ready for paint.
While others are getting P2 development boards, my power switch came a day early
Things I build do unfortunately not look like I bought them in some store. Nobody of the people I show them to would assume that. But at least some of them worked as planned.
You on the other hand have a quite wide range of workmanship, from bending wire fast over melting metal to lasering PCBs. I guess there where a lot other project you did not mention.
I took care of my mum for 8 years, keeping my fulltime job as programmer, working from moms home. I do know exactly what burden you are taking on there, but in my opinion it is our responsibility to take care of them elders as long as possible.
There will be moments when you think that it is just to much, but try to hold on, it is the right thing to do. My advice is that you find one or two reliable people able to relief you at least one day a week. I did not do that for the first couple of years and that was a mistake in the hindsight. Even if you try you will not be able to handle it by yourself.
Now I sound like a preacher, but I really would like you to avoid the mistakes I made.
Back to your project, it looks pretty cool so far. I (still) have a 3D printer, very old and currently not working anymore. It had a user interface like you describe, basically. So you insert a SD card, call up some menu to calibrate if needed and select a print file.
This allows PC independent operation and is - at least for 3D printing - a huge plus because 3D printing is SLOW. Do you have a estimate over the time it will take to burn a complete PCB? Because that will be a deciding factor for the design. If it goes quite fast, switching the SD card all the time might be not so user friendly, then PC connection might be better.
Or some interface over WiFY-serial.
Just my 2 Christmas cents,
Mike
Thanks for the kind words and Merry Christmas to you.
Eight years is a very long time and I applaud you, it could not have been easy holding on that long. Counting the time of my mother's cancer treatment, I am now at the two year mark, however the stroke was one year and six months ago, and that is when it became really difficult. Strokes are a monster. I am already at the end of my rope. Finding a reliable person, is a very difficult task, but then finding one that is also trustworthy, knowledgeable, caring, and physically capable of caring for her, well that is a very tall order to fill. I had a couple of women helping me occasionally, but they both lacked either several or a couple of the qualities I mentioned, and of course the money dwindled. Admittedly, I will have to find someone, because 24/7 is getting a bit old and very very stressful.
As for the project, I did work on drilling out the enclosure yesterday, and I just got back to it about 2 hours ago. Sadly, my drill press would not accommodate the enclosure, and I have to do everything the old fashion way. It looks as though my USB cutout, might not be as perfect as I would like, but I do not think that it will appear to be a major flaw. One way or another, since I am doing this the old school way, it will definitely take me a little time to make this enclosure look good. At this point, I have all the push button switches and LEDs fitting very nicely, and I am currently working on dressing up the LCD cutout.
I tried to estimate it once before, but I do believe my guesstimation was way off. To be perfectly honest, I do not have any clue at this point. However, I think a lot will depend upon the film and laser being used. I will undoubtedly try to make it as fast as possible
As for the Plum Crazy paint.... It is a very nice color, but I am not looking forward to painting this thing, because that paint really stinks, and as you know, it is winter time. However, when I get the painting done, I will be one happy guy, or at least as far as this project goes. I need to get this one to the experimental stage before spring time, which I am sure I will, because I have another machine ready to build, but it requires nice weather for welding.
Why isn't it working? Just not interested anymore?
In the photo you will see that I have not worked on the USB cutout yet, which is in the lower left corner. One of the holes is slightly off, so the cutout will be a little larger than what I wanted, but it'll do. Additionally, I did not install the LCD display, because I still need to order the proper standoffs.
Anyhow... Here is what the LDI prototype looks like on Christmas Day
I must admit that the slight mistake on the USB cutout bothers me more and more as each minute passes
Today I will be working on that USB cutout, as well as the power inlet and circuit breaker reset, which will be on the rear side of the enclosure.
Anyhow, thanks for the compliment.
I got frustrated with the quality of the prints. So it went into the shed for some time and now the threaded rods used for the z-axis are rusted. My sisters from Germany came over and took mum home 6 month ago and I am still recovering from taking care of her by myself for that long duration.
Mum has dementia and for the last couple of years I could basically not leave her alone. And as you mentioned finding and paying for help is a constant challenge.
I was able to buy myself a house since we will need to sell mums place and all of my electronic stuff is still in boxes. I just rummaged thru them to find a micro USB cable to fire up my chipmas present, and YES my P2-ES is working.
Enjoy!
Mike
Well that doesn't sound too hard to fix, but print quality is quite a different issue.
I once read that it can sometimes take up to five years to return to normalcy after being in a caretaker's position, as far as stress, etc... are concerned.
Yea, my mother was diagnosed with dementia soon after her stroke and she continually gets worse. Sometimes it is so frustrating and aggravating, while at other times, it can seem outright comical.
My brother kept talking like being a caretaker would be a breeze, and told him to research the facts. He was amazed to find that some caretakers end up being diagnosed with PTSD. Of course he has now been enlightened, but still refuses to assist. Truly a donkey.
Yea, yea, yea.... Just rub it in...
As previously mentioned in this thread, as well as another thread, within this forum, I had a dream of keeping the machine sleek and using a laptop power supply for running the machine, but then reality set in upon close inspection of the design. Anyway I have had this RadioShack Micronta linear power supply sitting around for several years, and I determined long ago that this power supply would be perfect for this small machine. It is a Micronta 22-120 and various photos can be seen here: .
After severe modification, this same power supply is shown below. I will have to do some desoldering and resoldering to get the wire lengths that I want and need, as well as a couple of other modifications that I intend to do. Additionally, I will also be making some standoffs for this power supply. After this is done, I will then get back to preparing the enclosure.
So without further delay, here is the modified Micronta 22-120, 13.8VDC, 2.5A.
Starting at 3:30 AM this morning, I did a little more layout, so that when I do manage to start working on the enclosure again, later this morning, I will have quite a bit to keep me busy, and hopefully I will get quite a bit done.
My hope is to get the main portion of the enclosure all drilled and machined sometime today, with the exception of the holes needed for the circuit boards, which still all needs to be planned out.
One thing is for sure... I keep getting closer and closer to being able to fire this machine up.
Mike
I am much closer at this point. I could actually power up the Propeller Project Board, with about five minutes of work, and start programming, but there is quite a bit more to do, before getting carried away.
I will most likely add a couple of 12V fans at the rear of the enclosure, to get rid of the heat.
Additionally, the Propeller Project Board is going to require some serious surgery
Yes, there is some progress, but since I need additional parts, the holiday slow me down. I will order my parts today and hopefully get them by Friday, although Monday or Tuesday seems more likely.
Hopefully there was a nice commission on those sales
Dependent upon the physical construction, the manufacturing process, etc...., I believe it would be out of the price range of most DIY'ers, but I am sure it could be a valuable asset to electrical engineers designing circuit boards. However, if an LDI was created by printer manufacturers, using similar methods of construction as for printers, then I could foresee hobby LDIs within the price range of many DIY'ers.
Without any labor included, the NEMA 1 enclosure and the two 0.9 degree stepper motors cost $150, and then if you add the cost of all the other parts, there is a notable investment, for something so small. Additionally, to manufacture my LDI design efficiently, a well equipped machine shop would be a definite necessity.
EDIT: With that being said, I am doing my very best to make the Mini LDI 20.25 Sq. In. a nice prototype, just in case it actually works well, then it might have commercial potential and possibilities.
Ha! I was the Systems Engineer that would talk to the engineers that were going to use the Laser Printers. The Salesmen would get our foot in the door, then I would have to do all the tech talk to sell it. I would get a dinner and drinks out of a sale. The 10K went to the salesman.
That is horrible and unfair. Employers can be such ___.
My stance has always been, pay me my worth. I can buy my own food and drinks. I have worked some horrible and unfair employers myself.
From the factory, the cover of the enclosure is intended to be fastened with four screws.
As I was doing the layout for my holes, I came up with a new idea, or should I say, a new idea for this machine. At this point, I am seriously contemplating using only two screws for the cover, on the right hand side of the machine, and putting an aluminum piano hinge on the left side. The piano hinge would make it very easy to test and work on the inside electronics. Under normal circumstances, I would not hesitate to do this, but in this instance, I am a little worried that the hinge will have to much slop and permit vibration while the machine is running.
Just had a new idea....
So I use the piano hinge as stated, but I also make two holes in the piano hinge to accept the original two cover screws
My only worry now about this piano hinge is the design of a good cover for the entire machine, to prevent accidental viewing of the laser.
Just sharing some thoughts.
I have used piano hinges in a few projects over the years and have never seen any noticeable slop in them. Found them to be an excellent way to mount the electronics and displays/indicators while also allowing easy access.
In looking at the pictures you posted the only problem I can see for using a piano hinge on your housing would be how to mount it. The top lip the cover fastens to is too narrow for a hinge and would also prevent mounting it on the inside. Only options I can see are to mount it on the outside of the case or remove the lip. The other suggestion I would make is to spot weld the hinge to the side and cover if you go that route.
The use of the piano hinge will ultimately be based upon the cover for the machine, although I am really liking the piano hinge idea.
Yea.. My thoughts are to mount one leg of the hinge to the outside "side" of the enclosure and the other leg to the top of the cover. However I am now thinking that I should just use a bare steel piano hinge and paint it the Plum Crazy color, just for ease, without drastically altering the enclosure. If I do not like it, then I can always remove the hinge and fill the holes, which would also eliminate welding.
However, as I said, it will all be based upon the cover for the machine, which will have a carrying handle on top.