Glad you like them! If you need a PDF of the copper layer on the boss board, it's at the bottom of this page. When I'm working with them, sometimes I use a sharpie to mark certain areas.
Sure:
I've done a few pdf setup guides for Propeller and SX, but to breakdown each part;
Pa: input capacitor for Voltage Regulator
Pb: Reverse polarity protection diode (1N4001)
Pc: Primary Regulator. It connects to the Vin of the Prop or SX, M1-Z1, and the power rails at rows E / F
Pd: Output cap for secondary regulator
Pe: Output cap for primary regulator
Pf: Secondary Regulator. It connects to M2-Z2
Pg: Slide switch
Ph: Slide switch
Pj: Either 3.5mm headphone jack or a potentiometer. It's designed to work with the Alps pots in the inventory
Pk: Either 3.5mm headphone jack or a pot.
Pm: MiniDIN. For Midi, use the 6pin miniDIN and the miniDIN - Midi converter cable in inventory
Pn: NES controller jack
Pp: RCA, the inner pin connects to GHJ26 (You'd probably use this for audio)
Pq: RCA, connects to parts [noparse][[/noparse]Pr], [noparse][[/noparse]Ps], [noparse][[/noparse]Pt]. This is for video out
Pr: For prop video DAC, 560 ohms
Ps: For prop video DAC, 1.1k ohms
Pt: For prop video DAC, 270 ohms
Pw: EEPROM. Pin 1 is at D1
Px: Pull-up resistor, 10k ohms
Py: resistor for LED at [noparse][[/noparse]Pz]
Pz: Power indicator LED
Note: the board doesn't use ambigious letters (no Parts Po, Pv, Pu, Pi, Pl)
Got the 1st place prize in the mail today:
The packaging is really nice - they did a great job with it. I didn't realize it has a digital compass, 2 IR LED's, and 2 photoresistors. Good stuff.
2 weeks left! If you're international and still need boards, this is the last call - airmail takes about 10 days.
Could you allow me to use a large protoboard instead of a boss board? For my project I need their to be a video that does NOT lead straight through the streaming resistors into the propeller pins. The boss board is handy, but not versitle enough for my project. I'm hoping to make that penguin mine!
▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔ Toys are microcontroled.
Robots are microcontroled.
I am microcontrolled.
1 - use yellow jumpers at [noparse][[/noparse]Pr], [noparse][[/noparse]Ps], [noparse][[/noparse]Pt] (that's why I didn't label them 'resistor 1, 2, 3')
2 - use [noparse][[/noparse]Pp] for video out. It connects straight to GHJ26
I need a way that you can run 2 RCA jacks. One for input, one for output. Video goes into one and goes out the other, and when the propeller wants to display something it uses a relay to switch the output to the propeller output and not the external video input. Then the relay switches back to the external video. This is so that the prop can display a message for a second while you are watching TV. This could also work simply if you added the male RCA jack to your inventory. then I could use the audio jack for video_in and attatch wires to the male end as an output. It could be like those connectors they sell at Radio Shack for reparing cables where this part has fallen off. This would be a good item to add to your inventory.
▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔ Toys are microcontroled.
Robots are microcontroled.
I am microcontrolled.
Another way to do it is to add pin headers to the top of the boss board and pin sockets to the bottom of a halfboard and make a 'shield'. The halfboard has 2x video out (and it's part of the inventory). That also gives you a little more prototyping space.
Even if there wasn't a contest, I wouldn't suggest doing a prop-based project on the half / full boards, it's a pain just to do the basic hook up.
You are right about it being a pain just to do the basic hook up. I didn't know that you allowed more than one board for the project. I am a designer on your site and I was hoping to submit this as a kit even if it didn't win. I was kind of wondering if this kind of setup was allowed or not.
▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔ Toys are microcontroled.
Robots are microcontroled.
I am microcontrolled.
Any chance of getting one of those added to your inventory (= available for contest)?· I know it might not be a 'common' part·in other designs, but someone making a USB·project (or one that includes an FTDI FT232RL) might find that useful.
[noparse][[/noparse]Edit:] And...while I was thinking about it... If a part used·is·something that you have in inventory (Like an RCA Jack), but you build the 'prototype' with one on hand, would that be considered ok?
Would a Type B connector work? The thru hole USB type B fits at [noparse][[/noparse]Pm]. By the way - thanks for your order! I've thrown in a few type B jacks in the envelope so you can give it a try.
I'm probably never going to carry surface mount parts - my goal is to sell projects and the public perception of surface mount is, 'it's a pain.' For surface mount only parts (like the FTDI and SD card sockets), I'll carry breakout boards (already carry a breakout for SD card).
Oh - regarding RCA jacks - a part is a part, It doesn't need to be the exact same jack, just as long as it fits and works.
Thanks!· Type B would work just as well, and thru hole works better for an 'on board' solution.·
I am trying to stick with "what is in inventory" as much as possible (using 1.1k ohm instead of 1.5k, and 47 for 68 ohm resistors, etc).· Should still work fine.
I think you need a quick reference for your new boards. I'm working on laying out my perpetual project right now, and I find I'm having to go between the board, this page where you list things, and the two trace diagrams you provide. What I would like to see are a pair of quick reference diagrams:
1. Just the essentials. This will show every component on the board to get the particular chip up and running. It should use color to label things like dedicated power lines (+5V, +3.3V, and GND), it should label all pins of the microcontroller, and it should make clear any other potential pitfalls
2. Everything the microcontroller can provide. This includes things like video, pots, controller, etc. It should also include all of what #1 does.
The quick reference should have the board layout, and other essential information such as what's in that list you provided further up, including part values and labels. Also, the board size and hole spacing on that page would be nice.
Just a thought.
P.S. I also think that if you go with this suggestion that you take another: start with the Propeller!
Do these help? Not sure if it's exactly what you're looking for.
RE part substitution. It's fine if your part is different as long as the inventory part is a swap-out and will work, but a different pin-out is a problem.
No, I was thinking a single page, without any sort of setup guide. Something that could be printed out and posted on the wall. What I think would be ideal would have multiple colors for major themes (voltage, I/Os, assorted pins, chip surface area) where all traces are highlighted in the correct color with respect to their function. You would only need to use the top side (where the letters are facing correctly), since you'll be able to quickly assume what's under the board. If you point me in the direction of an image file of the board top (.png preferably) then I can give you an example/start.
As a side note, I think your placement of the prop-plug is not good. As it stands, the plug is in the way of some prime real estate, area where my design is taking space. So, what about putting the plug in the row labeled SX, SX[noparse][[/noparse]4:1]? These are the four holes, one from the end, on the Z side of the board. There's no real use for the holes as it stands, and nothing useful like I/O pins live around there. It also makes use of two holes for the RES and TX lines that also connect from the SX and are covered up by the prop.
If the 5v relay will work as a substitue, that's fine, then. As long as your project can be built with the inventory we stock. If you need the 9V relay, let me know and I can add it in.
@srlm - Here's a hires image of the boss board. I think I understand what you're looking for. If you can show me a setup or two, I can crank them out.
For the prop plug - there are a ton of different placement options. That's an option, or programming off board, or whichever way. The way I did it on the howto was optimized for ease, and it does take up some good real estate.
Sort of. I was thinking along the line of using these http://www.gadgetgangster.com/images/stories/boards.pdf diagrams, instead of a photograph. That way you can see all the traces and just use the bitmap color fill tool to highlight what you need. You can also put the different layers on top of each other too, and lots of other things that you can't do with a photograph. BTW, this is intended to help designers layout components, not help the builders. Can you post or send a link to the raw image files? I can whip out a draft by the evening if you do.
That is a good diagram for the builders, but SLRM is right; it would be really nice if the trace diagram, the part code definition and the part placement diagram was all on one page.
I still like the diagram that is there, however, because it is a handy tool for setting up the boss board.
▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔ Toys are microcontroled.
Robots are microcontroled.
I am microcontrolled.
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Need to make your prop design easier or secure? Get a PropMod has crystal, eeprom, and programing header in a 40 pin dip 0.7" pitch module with uSD reader, and RTC options.
Okay, here is my version. I've uploaded both the exported JPG and the original PNGs. I went ahead and just took a screen shot of the PDF, since I don't have ExpressPCB installed. The colors are a little awakward, but I think they get the idea accross. I haven't worked on the bottom part of the board, and it probably needn't be included in the quick reference. It's there merely for legacy reasons.
Also, it should be fairly simple (<5 hours) to make a simple flash program to take the user between layers of the board. I like the board, but it's pretty complicated and difficult to figure out where every connection goes.
BTW, today when I was soldering it up in the electronics shop on campus, I got quite a few questions about the board. I think people like it.
Comments
Got a common cathode 7-seg in the LED tab.
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Basic Stamp,···· Propeller,·· · SX,·· FUN!
START:·
>Proccessing Data. . . .··
>Task Complete. . .·.
>Saving Data. . . .
>Entering SLEEP Mode. . . .
>Signing OFF
·
I've done a few pdf setup guides for Propeller and SX, but to breakdown each part;
Pa: input capacitor for Voltage Regulator
Pb: Reverse polarity protection diode (1N4001)
Pc: Primary Regulator. It connects to the Vin of the Prop or SX, M1-Z1, and the power rails at rows E / F
Pd: Output cap for secondary regulator
Pe: Output cap for primary regulator
Pf: Secondary Regulator. It connects to M2-Z2
Pg: Slide switch
Ph: Slide switch
Pj: Either 3.5mm headphone jack or a potentiometer. It's designed to work with the Alps pots in the inventory
Pk: Either 3.5mm headphone jack or a pot.
Pm: MiniDIN. For Midi, use the 6pin miniDIN and the miniDIN - Midi converter cable in inventory
Pn: NES controller jack
Pp: RCA, the inner pin connects to GHJ26 (You'd probably use this for audio)
Pq: RCA, connects to parts [noparse][[/noparse]Pr], [noparse][[/noparse]Ps], [noparse][[/noparse]Pt]. This is for video out
Pr: For prop video DAC, 560 ohms
Ps: For prop video DAC, 1.1k ohms
Pt: For prop video DAC, 270 ohms
Pw: EEPROM. Pin 1 is at D1
Px: Pull-up resistor, 10k ohms
Py: resistor for LED at [noparse][[/noparse]Pz]
Pz: Power indicator LED
Note: the board doesn't use ambigious letters (no Parts Po, Pv, Pu, Pi, Pl)
▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
Gadget Gangster - Share your Electronic Projects - Sign up as a Designer and get a free 4-pack of Project Boards!
▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
Basic Stamp,···· Propeller,·· · SX,·· FUN!
START:·
>Proccessing Data. . . .··
>Task Complete. . .·.
>Saving Data. . . .
>Entering SLEEP Mode. . . .
>Signing OFF
·
P.S. How much do you charge for shipping?
▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
Toys are microcontroled.
Robots are microcontroled.
I am microcontrolled.
▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
Gadget Gangster - Share your Electronic Projects - Sign up as a Designer and get a free 4-pack of Project Boards!
The packaging is really nice - they did a great job with it. I didn't realize it has a digital compass, 2 IR LED's, and 2 photoresistors. Good stuff.
2 weeks left! If you're international and still need boards, this is the last call - airmail takes about 10 days.
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Post Edited (Nick McClick) : 4/15/2009 5:16:56 AM GMT
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Toys are microcontroled.
Robots are microcontroled.
I am microcontrolled.
1 - use yellow jumpers at [noparse][[/noparse]Pr], [noparse][[/noparse]Ps], [noparse][[/noparse]Pt] (that's why I didn't label them 'resistor 1, 2, 3')
2 - use [noparse][[/noparse]Pp] for video out. It connects straight to GHJ26
▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
Gadget Gangster - Share your Electronic Projects - Sign up as a Designer and get a free 4-pack of Project Boards!
▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
Toys are microcontroled.
Robots are microcontroled.
I am microcontrolled.
Even if there wasn't a contest, I wouldn't suggest doing a prop-based project on the half / full boards, it's a pain just to do the basic hook up.
▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
Gadget Gangster - Share your Electronic Projects - Sign up as a Designer and get a free 4-pack of Project Boards!
▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
Toys are microcontroled.
Robots are microcontroled.
I am microcontrolled.
▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
Gadget Gangster - Share your Electronic Projects - Sign up as a Designer and get a free 4-pack of Project Boards!
I have something I was going to try as an entry, but requires (of all things) a USB Female Type A SMD Connector.
Something like this would be good:
http://www.sparkfun.com/datasheets/Prototyping/Connectors/USBFemaleTypeA.pdf
http://anacapa.kycon.com/Pub_Eng_Draw/KUSBLX-SMT-AS1N-x.pdf
Any chance of getting one of those added to your inventory (= available for contest)?· I know it might not be a 'common' part·in other designs, but someone making a USB·project (or one that includes an FTDI FT232RL) might find that useful.
[noparse][[/noparse]Edit:] And...while I was thinking about it... If a part used·is·something that you have in inventory (Like an RCA Jack), but you build the 'prototype' with one on hand, would that be considered ok?
Thanks,
--trodoss
Post Edited (trodoss) : 4/16/2009 11:14:44 PM GMT
I'm probably never going to carry surface mount parts - my goal is to sell projects and the public perception of surface mount is, 'it's a pain.' For surface mount only parts (like the FTDI and SD card sockets), I'll carry breakout boards (already carry a breakout for SD card).
Oh - regarding RCA jacks - a part is a part, It doesn't need to be the exact same jack, just as long as it fits and works.
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Thanks!· Type B would work just as well, and thru hole works better for an 'on board' solution.·
I am trying to stick with "what is in inventory" as much as possible (using 1.1k ohm instead of 1.5k, and 47 for 68 ohm resistors, etc).· Should still work fine.
Post Edited (trodoss) : 4/17/2009 1:33:03 PM GMT
If you need any caps or inductors added, just let me know.
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▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
Toys are microcontroled.
Robots are microcontroled.
I am microcontrolled.
I think you need a quick reference for your new boards. I'm working on laying out my perpetual project right now, and I find I'm having to go between the board, this page where you list things, and the two trace diagrams you provide. What I would like to see are a pair of quick reference diagrams:
1. Just the essentials. This will show every component on the board to get the particular chip up and running. It should use color to label things like dedicated power lines (+5V, +3.3V, and GND), it should label all pins of the microcontroller, and it should make clear any other potential pitfalls
2. Everything the microcontroller can provide. This includes things like video, pots, controller, etc. It should also include all of what #1 does.
The quick reference should have the board layout, and other essential information such as what's in that list you provided further up, including part values and labels. Also, the board size and hole spacing on that page would be nice.
Just a thought.
P.S. I also think that if you go with this suggestion that you take another: start with the Propeller!
RE part substitution. It's fine if your part is different as long as the inventory part is a swap-out and will work, but a different pin-out is a problem.
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Gadget Gangster - Share your Electronic Projects - Sign up as a Designer and get a free 4-pack of Project Boards!
As a side note, I think your placement of the prop-plug is not good. As it stands, the plug is in the way of some prime real estate, area where my design is taking space. So, what about putting the plug in the row labeled SX, SX[noparse][[/noparse]4:1]? These are the four holes, one from the end, on the Z side of the board. There's no real use for the holes as it stands, and nothing useful like I/O pins live around there. It also makes use of two holes for the RES and TX lines that also connect from the SX and are covered up by the prop.
▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
Toys are microcontroled.
Robots are microcontroled.
I am microcontrolled.
@srlm - Here's a hires image of the boss board. I think I understand what you're looking for. If you can show me a setup or two, I can crank them out.
For the prop plug - there are a ton of different placement options. That's an option, or programming off board, or whichever way. The way I did it on the howto was optimized for ease, and it does take up some good real estate.
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Edit - here's a pdf version
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Post Edited (Nick McClick) : 4/20/2009 7:59:03 PM GMT
I still like the diagram that is there, however, because it is a handy tool for setting up the boss board.
▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
Toys are microcontroled.
Robots are microcontroled.
I am microcontrolled.
▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
Gadget Gangster - Share your Electronic Projects - Sign up as a Designer and get a free 4-pack of Project Boards!
▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
Need to make your prop design easier or secure? Get a PropMod has crystal, eeprom, and programing header in a 40 pin dip 0.7" pitch module with uSD reader, and RTC options.
Also, it should be fairly simple (<5 hours) to make a simple flash program to take the user between layers of the board. I like the board, but it's pretty complicated and difficult to figure out where every connection goes.
BTW, today when I was soldering it up in the electronics shop on campus, I got quite a few questions about the board. I think people like it.
What do you think about the quick reference idea?
That is very helpful! Thanks for the hard work!