FLiP robot

2

Comments

  • These are the power modules I bought:
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N2QBSVE

    There are lots of them on Amazon in different quantities. They all seem to be the same design, so should work.
  • NikosGNikosG Posts: 702
    edited 2019-12-08 - 11:15:44
    As I'm waiting for the Parallax Feedback 360° High Speed Servo and for the FLiP board and the tail wheel, I made a first chassis printed from PLA. I think that the final result will be very good....
    robot_mix_01.jpg

    I'm thinking to make and an aluminium version that will be much impressive
    The motors that I used to test this chassis at the moment are the Parallax Continuous Rotation Servo
    I also paid special attention to the pen hole because the common whiteboard marker have 16mm diameter instead of the smaller diameter that use the S3
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  • @NikosG - Looking great!
  • Its amazing what 3d printing and mini CNC can do in skilled hands. Really top notch!
  • It looks really good. I think a spherical tail wheel would be more than adequate for such a lightweight bot. I wouldn't expect to get any benefit from using the omniwheel. You could print something like this:

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  • NikosGNikosG Posts: 702
    edited 2019-12-09 - 22:14:23
    W9GFO wrote: »
    It looks really good. I think a spherical tail wheel would be more than adequate for such a lightweight bot. I wouldn't expect to get any benefit from using the omniwheel. You could print something like this:

    Maybe you have right...
    here is a first attempt...
    tail_all.jpg
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  • W9GFOW9GFO Posts: 3,938
    edited 2019-12-10 - 02:24:16
    .
  • Will there be a pen lifter?

    How well does the 3d printed tailwheel slide sideways?

  • AwesomeCronkAwesomeCronk Posts: 925
    edited 2019-12-10 - 18:39:48
    Amazing!!

    Putting tread on the tail wheel to decrease the contact surface area may help improve the slide, if it is less than adequate. I think just horizontal lines would be best.
  • NikosGNikosG Posts: 702
    edited 2019-12-17 - 20:41:17
    W9GFO wrote: »
    Will there be a pen lifter?

    How well does the 3d printed tailwheel slide sideways?
    Yes! The robot will have a pen lifter but is necessary to use the smaller FLiP board designed from Roy in order to reveal the pen hole.

    Till Roy's board arrive I put the Propeller Activity Board WX in order to test the robot. I uploaded the calibration code and here is the result.



    [video]

    I think that the 3d printed tail wheel is god enough ….
    However, the calibration result showed a problem because I used a bigger wheel 68mm instead of the 65mm Parallax wheel.
    calibratio_360_problem_01.jpg
    wheels.jpg
    Although I changed the wheels with the original, the problem insisted because I use a battery pack with 6 AA batteries with a total of 9.54 volts.
    I don't think that this problem is too serious ......
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  • This little critter is VERY fast, bigger wheels and way to much Voltage for the servos.

    You should consider taking one batterie out and replacing it with some blank wire.

    but else this is a very nice robot.

    Mike

  • PublisonPublison Posts: 11,288
    edited 2019-12-21 - 18:02:05
    NikosG wrote: »
    @Roy & @Ken Thank you!!!!

    However, I can't open the GIMP files.
    I have the GIMP ver. 2.8.14
    What version is required?
    Are these files available in another format?

    @NikosG

    Here is a site where you can drag the Gerber files into to view the board:

    https://www.pcbway.com/project/OnlineGerberViewer.html
  • Blink and that bot is GONE!! Super fast!
  • NikosGNikosG Posts: 702
    edited 2020-01-05 - 20:13:31
    Roy's board arrived the other day and now I'm waiting for the MP1584EN DC-DC Converter . The rest of the electronics in order to complete the board are available from a local electronics shop.
    The first impression is excellent! The size is perfect and ideal for my robot's design...

    H a p p y t h e N E W Y E A R to All of you!!!!
  • It couldn't be a better size for that!
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  • Just to be clear, it's not my board. It's a Parallax designed board in collaboration with Jill Ogle (formerly letrobot.tv, now remo.tv).
    I just put the files on OSHPark so I could get some for myself, and then shared it since Ken said it was ok.
  • Roy Eltham wrote: »
    Just to be clear, it's not my board. It's a Parallax designed board in collaboration with Jill Ogle (formerly letrobot.tv, now remo.tv).
    I just put the files on OSHPark so I could get some for myself, and then shared it since Ken said it was ok.

    Share away!

    Ken Gracey
  • Roy Eltham wrote: »
    Just to be clear, it's not my board. It's a Parallax designed board in collaboration with Jill Ogle (formerly letrobot.tv, now remo.tv).
    I just put the files on OSHPark so I could get some for myself, and then shared it since Ken said it was ok.

    Ok, Roy,
    I was confused because I don't see that board on Parallax shop. Anyway, I think that Parallax could provide that board ready (assembled) as a Shield for FLiP board...

    Could you provide, please two photos from the board (top and bottom) without the FLiP and the MP1584EN DC-DC Converters to understand better how to solder the rest of the electronics parts on it?
  • NikosGNikosG Posts: 702
    edited 2020-01-07 - 23:08:21
    A pack of 10 MP1584EN DC-DC Converters arrived today...

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  • Good progress!

    You might have spotted this already, but here's a tip that came up during previous testing of those PCB's.... Some of those DC-DC modules have an un-populated resistor footprint under (or beside) the variable resistor, so once you've figured out the resistance you need for your voltage, you could remove it and solder down a fixed value resistor to make the voltage permanent. In case you were ever concerned that the resistor might be nudged, or nudge itself, to a higher "robot blasting" voltage. I suppose glue or tape could help too.

    Fun to watch your progress- Thanks!



  • NikosG,
    Here's the photos your requested:
    flipboard_top.jpg
    flipboard_bottom.jpg

    Notice that I had to cut out a bit of the plastic on the 40pin socket I used in order for the resisters to fit under it. I suppose those resistors could have been put on the bottom instead, but I preferred my solution.
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  • Roy Eltham wrote: »
    NikosG,
    Here's the photos your requested:
    Notice that I had to cut out a bit of the plastic on the 40pin socket I used in order for the resisters to fit under it. I suppose those resistors could have been put on the bottom instead, but I preferred my solution.

    It's so cool!!
    Very clever work and space arrangement!!!
    I'll do the same thing....
    Thank you, man !!!
  • Roy Eltham wrote: »
    NikosG,
    Here's the photos your requested:

    Notice that I had to cut out a bit of the plastic on the 40pin socket I used in order for the resisters to fit under it. I suppose those resistors could have been put on the bottom instead, but I preferred my solution.

    I like the machine pins. I always try to use them.
  • NikosGNikosG Posts: 702
    edited 2020-01-08 - 20:27:09
    VonSzarvas wrote: »
    Good progress!

    ......In case you were ever concerned that the resistor might be nudged, or nudge itself, to a higher "robot blasting" voltage. I suppose glue or tape could help too.

    Here is a detailed photo of my DC converter...
    I don't feel confident to remove something because is very tiny...
    But I think glue is a good idea...
    Is that the right place to put the glue?
    DC-DC.jpg
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  • Just a dab of hot glue should work there. It could always be pulled out with needle nose pliers to be reset.
  • NikosG:
    When you get everything assembled. BEFORE you install the FLiP module, install just the power modules. apply input power, and adjust the output voltages using a meter to test.
    Don't want to damage a good FLiP with the wrong power.
  • NikosGNikosG Posts: 702
    edited 2020-01-11 - 15:06:06
    Roy Eltham wrote: »
    NikosG:
    When you get everything assembled. BEFORE you install the FLiP module, install just the power modules. apply input power, and adjust the output voltages using a meter to test.
    Don't want to damage a good FLiP with the wrong power.

    Ok, I followed the right steps and finally I put some glue.....
    my_assembly_flip_board.jpg
    I think I'm ready for the next steps.....! (final design and pen lifter)
    However, the choice of the board was so crucial .....
    Roy and Publison a big Thanks once again ....!
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  • NikosGNikosG Posts: 702
    edited 2020-01-17 - 21:30:34
    I plugged the Feedback 360 servos in the same pins as the example with ActivityBot 360
    Pin12: Left Servo
    Pin13: Right Servo
    Pin14: Left Feedback Wire
    Pin15: Right Feedback Wire
    Feedback_servos_connections.jpg
    However, I have a problem when I try to test the Feedback 360° Servos……
    The two LEDs P26 & P27 turn on and off only when the FLiP module is connected with the computer via the USB cable
    servo%20test%20code.jpg
    None of the code example with 360 Feedback servos doesn’t work probably because the board that I use is not the board of the Activity360 robot …
    When I change the robot type from “Activity360” to “Servo Differential Drive” the Robot encoders stores block is not compatible with the Servo Differential Drive…..


    Any help or any idea? The problem solved thanks to Roy...
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  • Are you putting your program into the eeprom? I recall that often unplugging USB will reset the prop, so if you don't put your program into eeprom it will not be running when you unplug USB.
  • NikosGNikosG Posts: 702
    edited 2020-01-17 - 17:37:46
    Roy Eltham wrote: »
    Are you putting your program into the eeprom? I recall that often unplugging USB will reset the prop, so if you don't put your program into eeprom it will not be running when you unplug USB.

    You had absolutely right !!!
    ram_eprom.jpg
    I was putting the program into RAM instead of EEPROM.....
    sorry for the confusion...
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