As I'm waiting for the Parallax Feedback 360° High Speed Servo and for the FLiP board and the tail wheel, I made a first chassis printed from PLA. I think that the final result will be very good....
I'm thinking to make and an aluminium version that will be much impressive
The motors that I used to test this chassis at the moment are the Parallax Continuous Rotation Servo
I also paid special attention to the pen hole because the common whiteboard marker have 16mm diameter instead of the smaller diameter that use the S3
It looks really good. I think a spherical tail wheel would be more than adequate for such a lightweight bot. I wouldn't expect to get any benefit from using the omniwheel. You could print something like this:
It looks really good. I think a spherical tail wheel would be more than adequate for such a lightweight bot. I wouldn't expect to get any benefit from using the omniwheel. You could print something like this:
Maybe you have right...
here is a first attempt...
Putting tread on the tail wheel to decrease the contact surface area may help improve the slide, if it is less than adequate. I think just horizontal lines would be best.
I think that the 3d printed tail wheel is god enough ….
However, the calibration result showed a problem because I used a bigger wheel 68mm instead of the 65mm Parallax wheel.
Although I changed the wheels with the original, the problem insisted because I use a battery pack with 6 AA batteries with a total of 9.54 volts.
I don't think that this problem is too serious ......
Roy's board arrived the other day and now I'm waiting for the MP1584EN DC-DC Converter . The rest of the electronics in order to complete the board are available from a local electronics shop.
The first impression is excellent! The size is perfect and ideal for my robot's design...
Just to be clear, it's not my board. It's a Parallax designed board in collaboration with Jill Ogle (formerly letrobot.tv, now remo.tv).
I just put the files on OSHPark so I could get some for myself, and then shared it since Ken said it was ok.
Just to be clear, it's not my board. It's a Parallax designed board in collaboration with Jill Ogle (formerly letrobot.tv, now remo.tv).
I just put the files on OSHPark so I could get some for myself, and then shared it since Ken said it was ok.
Just to be clear, it's not my board. It's a Parallax designed board in collaboration with Jill Ogle (formerly letrobot.tv, now remo.tv).
I just put the files on OSHPark so I could get some for myself, and then shared it since Ken said it was ok.
Ok, Roy,
I was confused because I don't see that board on Parallax shop. Anyway, I think that Parallax could provide that board ready (assembled) as a Shield for FLiP board...
Could you provide, please two photos from the board (top and bottom) without the FLiP and the MP1584EN DC-DC Converters to understand better how to solder the rest of the electronics parts on it?
You might have spotted this already, but here's a tip that came up during previous testing of those PCB's.... Some of those DC-DC modules have an un-populated resistor footprint under (or beside) the variable resistor, so once you've figured out the resistance you need for your voltage, you could remove it and solder down a fixed value resistor to make the voltage permanent. In case you were ever concerned that the resistor might be nudged, or nudge itself, to a higher "robot blasting" voltage. I suppose glue or tape could help too.
Notice that I had to cut out a bit of the plastic on the 40pin socket I used in order for the resisters to fit under it. I suppose those resistors could have been put on the bottom instead, but I preferred my solution.
NikosG,
Here's the photos your requested:
Notice that I had to cut out a bit of the plastic on the 40pin socket I used in order for the resisters to fit under it. I suppose those resistors could have been put on the bottom instead, but I preferred my solution.
It's so cool!!
Very clever work and space arrangement!!!
I'll do the same thing....
Thank you, man !!!
Notice that I had to cut out a bit of the plastic on the 40pin socket I used in order for the resisters to fit under it. I suppose those resistors could have been put on the bottom instead, but I preferred my solution.
I like the machine pins. I always try to use them.
......In case you were ever concerned that the resistor might be nudged, or nudge itself, to a higher "robot blasting" voltage. I suppose glue or tape could help too.
Here is a detailed photo of my DC converter...
I don't feel confident to remove something because is very tiny...
But I think glue is a good idea...
Is that the right place to put the glue?
NikosG:
When you get everything assembled. BEFORE you install the FLiP module, install just the power modules. apply input power, and adjust the output voltages using a meter to test.
Don't want to damage a good FLiP with the wrong power.
NikosG:
When you get everything assembled. BEFORE you install the FLiP module, install just the power modules. apply input power, and adjust the output voltages using a meter to test.
Don't want to damage a good FLiP with the wrong power.
Ok, I followed the right steps and finally I put some glue.....
I think I'm ready for the next steps.....! (final design and pen lifter)
However, the choice of the board was so crucial .....
Roy and Publison a big Thanks once again ....!
I plugged the Feedback 360 servos in the same pins as the example with ActivityBot 360
Pin12: Left Servo
Pin13: Right Servo
Pin14: Left Feedback Wire
Pin15: Right Feedback Wire
However, I have a problem when I try to test the Feedback 360° Servos……
The two LEDs P26 & P27 turn on and off only when the FLiP module is connected with the computer via the USB cable None of the code example with 360 Feedback servos doesn’t work probably because the board that I use is not the board of the Activity360 robot …
When I change the robot type from “Activity360” to “Servo Differential Drive” the Robot encoders stores block is not compatible with the Servo Differential Drive…..
Any help or any idea? The problem solved thanks to Roy...
Are you putting your program into the eeprom? I recall that often unplugging USB will reset the prop, so if you don't put your program into eeprom it will not be running when you unplug USB.
Are you putting your program into the eeprom? I recall that often unplugging USB will reset the prop, so if you don't put your program into eeprom it will not be running when you unplug USB.
You had absolutely right !!!
I was putting the program into RAM instead of EEPROM.....
sorry for the confusion...
Comments
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N2QBSVE
There are lots of them on Amazon in different quantities. They all seem to be the same design, so should work.
I'm thinking to make and an aluminium version that will be much impressive
The motors that I used to test this chassis at the moment are the Parallax Continuous Rotation Servo
I also paid special attention to the pen hole because the common whiteboard marker have 16mm diameter instead of the smaller diameter that use the S3
Maybe you have right...
here is a first attempt...
How well does the 3d printed tailwheel slide sideways?
Putting tread on the tail wheel to decrease the contact surface area may help improve the slide, if it is less than adequate. I think just horizontal lines would be best.
Till Roy's board arrive I put the Propeller Activity Board WX in order to test the robot. I uploaded the calibration code and here is the result.
[video]
I think that the 3d printed tail wheel is god enough ….
However, the calibration result showed a problem because I used a bigger wheel 68mm instead of the 65mm Parallax wheel.
Although I changed the wheels with the original, the problem insisted because I use a battery pack with 6 AA batteries with a total of 9.54 volts.
I don't think that this problem is too serious ......
You should consider taking one batterie out and replacing it with some blank wire.
but else this is a very nice robot.
Mike
@NikosG
Here is a site where you can drag the Gerber files into to view the board:
https://www.pcbway.com/project/OnlineGerberViewer.html
The first impression is excellent! The size is perfect and ideal for my robot's design...
H a p p y t h e N E W Y E A R to All of you!!!!
I just put the files on OSHPark so I could get some for myself, and then shared it since Ken said it was ok.
Share away!
Ken Gracey
Ok, Roy,
I was confused because I don't see that board on Parallax shop. Anyway, I think that Parallax could provide that board ready (assembled) as a Shield for FLiP board...
Could you provide, please two photos from the board (top and bottom) without the FLiP and the MP1584EN DC-DC Converters to understand better how to solder the rest of the electronics parts on it?
You might have spotted this already, but here's a tip that came up during previous testing of those PCB's.... Some of those DC-DC modules have an un-populated resistor footprint under (or beside) the variable resistor, so once you've figured out the resistance you need for your voltage, you could remove it and solder down a fixed value resistor to make the voltage permanent. In case you were ever concerned that the resistor might be nudged, or nudge itself, to a higher "robot blasting" voltage. I suppose glue or tape could help too.
Fun to watch your progress- Thanks!
Here's the photos your requested:
Notice that I had to cut out a bit of the plastic on the 40pin socket I used in order for the resisters to fit under it. I suppose those resistors could have been put on the bottom instead, but I preferred my solution.
It's so cool!!
Very clever work and space arrangement!!!
I'll do the same thing....
Thank you, man !!!
I like the machine pins. I always try to use them.
Here is a detailed photo of my DC converter...
I don't feel confident to remove something because is very tiny...
But I think glue is a good idea...
Is that the right place to put the glue?
When you get everything assembled. BEFORE you install the FLiP module, install just the power modules. apply input power, and adjust the output voltages using a meter to test.
Don't want to damage a good FLiP with the wrong power.
Ok, I followed the right steps and finally I put some glue.....
I think I'm ready for the next steps.....! (final design and pen lifter)
However, the choice of the board was so crucial .....
Roy and Publison a big Thanks once again ....!
Pin12: Left Servo
Pin13: Right Servo
Pin14: Left Feedback Wire
Pin15: Right Feedback Wire
However, I have a problem when I try to test the Feedback 360° Servos……
The two LEDs P26 & P27 turn on and off only when the FLiP module is connected with the computer via the USB cable
None of the code example with 360 Feedback servos doesn’t work probably because the board that I use is not the board of the Activity360 robot …
When I change the robot type from “Activity360” to “Servo Differential Drive” the Robot encoders stores block is not compatible with the Servo Differential Drive…..
Any help or any idea? The problem solved thanks to Roy...
You had absolutely right !!!
I was putting the program into RAM instead of EEPROM.....
sorry for the confusion...