That works perfectly, thank you! Bit hard to run from the dog, when I couldnt get out of spinning in a turn [noparse]:D[/noparse]
Anyways, to recap for anyone trying this, add a 2k (or so, I used 2.2k) pullup resistor from each control pin ( F,B,L,R) to VDD. This is probably not necessary for the "original" ZipZaps, but is required for the newer models. However, has not been tried with the SE models...
I'm not sure the SE version can be hacked as easily as the original version...
I got an ZipZap SE and disassembled the car.
The steering does have a pot (unknown value) and there is a small motor for the steering.
So I guess it's the same thing as a servo...
I left the pot as is and tried the steering, the motor will go one way or the other depending on the steering wheel and it seem to center when I let go of the wheel by running the opposite way.
There is just one problem, let's say I turn the wheel all the way to the right quickly, the motor will get about a one second pulse. Then I go back slowly to the center with the wheel and I can now count about 5-4 pulses the opposite way that are about one second each.
So if I just counted the pulses, I would no longer be in center but 3-4 positions left so to say.
Guess the steering need the feedback from the pot to work properly...
Anyhow, I'm going to see if I can find one that is not SE to see if I have better luck...
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Living on the planet Earth might be expensive but it includes a free trip around the sun every year...
Experience level:
[noparse][[/noparse] ] Let's connect the motor to pin 1, it's a 6V motor so it should be fine.
[noparse][[/noparse] ] OK, I got my resistors hooked up with the LEDs.
[noparse][[/noparse]X] I got the Motor hooked up with the H-bridge and the 555 is supplying the PWM.
[noparse][[/noparse] ] Now, if I can only program the BOE-BOT to interface with he Flux Capacitor.
[noparse][[/noparse] ] I dream in SX28 assembler...
i have wired my zipzap as Codemonkey has shown however in a rest state (hands off r/c remote, or for that matter, the remote turned off) my IN3 IN4 IN10 IN11 states equal 1.· when i hit a button on the remote the values change to 0.· when releasing the button they return from 0 back to 1...?
my assumption is that the rest states should be 0, not 1.· is that correct?
i have tried various resistors as mentioned else where but with no luck.
after the second zip zap (never tested first before disassembly so not sure if it ever worked, but second zipzap ran fine before disassembly) i basically set this up on my homework board in an attempt to get it going but am still getting the same effect.· rest states are 1, not 0.
9V battery on homework board ok via voltmeter.· AAA batteries in remote ok per voltmeter.· not sure what to try...?·
checking IN3 IN4 IN10 IN11 in rest state shows 5v across each pin.· is this correct?· it seems odd that IN3 and IN4 would read anything other than 0 in the rest state as they are not in line with with the "power" part of the circuit.
checking for continuity across pins (thinking my solder job bled over to another point) shows that they are all·isolated.· how are IN3 and IN4 getting power in rest state?
using the provided code with only one addition to monitor pin states:
DEBUG HOME, "IN3= ",DEC IN3,"· IN4= ",DEC IN4, "· IN10= ",DEC IN10,"· IN11= ", DEC IN11 , CR
this was placed inside the Do..Loop
my initial thought was that some component on my BOE Bot (LED'S, sensors, speaker, LCD,·etc...)·was shorting, crossing, or otherwise interferring with the zip zap circuit but having moved to my unused homework board with no other circuit (not even servos) than the zipzap ·circuit and still getting the same effect i am at a loss...?
anybody have any thoughts or suggestions?· thanks!!
Those look to me like pullup resistors. Do you have them on yours? It may be possible that without pullup resistors, the line remains low all of the time (why your boe just rotates). The other resistors are just to protect the stamp from excess current, but you should have them too.
From my understanding, on this segment of code
IF (IN3 = 0) THEN
vResetVals = 0
GOSUB Set_Backward
ELSEIF (IN4 = 0) THEN
vResetVals = 0
GOSUB Set_Forward
ENDIF
' check the left and right controls
IF (IN10 = 0) THEN
vResetVals = 0
GOSUB Set_Right
ELSEIF (IN11 = 0) THEN
vResetVals = 0
GOSUB Set_Left
that is the part where it reads the info from the controller. To test, you could just have it run a simple program and print in the debug window the states of each line like:
Yes, they are pull-up resistors. When the forward and backward buttons are pressed the pins are pulled to ground. So, I used the pull-up resistors to pull them high when they are not pressed.
Interesting discussion and good work as well. I just wanted to comment that perhaps a wire whip antenna might cause less eccentricity/bending moment and lighter load than the heavier telescopic type. Just a thought.
Awesome and very innovative. I love these cheap solutions to expensive problems.
What is the range for the radio signal? Also do you just peel of the black plastic stuff from the board?
The range is pretty good especially after adding the large antenna to the bot. I don't know the exact distance, and I'm in the middle of a move so it's in a box right now, but it worked well for me throughout my little two bedroom apartment.
I don't remember there being any black plastic stuff on the board. Maybe that is on the newer model?
Yeah, I think it is a newer model, but I saw some other people talk about·the black stuff·on this thread so I thought they might give me an answer.· Thanks for the info!
I know that this might be a few years late, but I have an answer to: "i bought a new Zipzap(SE) and when i put it on the charger, the light is amber and nothing is wrong. Any body know something??????" If the car isn't on that is what happens. Also I had another question. I'm not sure if this is so on the original model (I have an SE) but of the three metal contacts to the controller which one is a link to the processor to control the channel. I assume that there is +,-, and com connections, right? Lastly, does anybody have pictures of the wiring for SE models, I just took the thing apart and am not sure of all the connections? Thanks in advance.
PS Mine car was flawed also, that is why it is being put this use. They seem to be better for this purpose than the one originally intended. [noparse]:)[/noparse]
Hey, I'm thinking of buying some of these from radioshack (yes, I know they don't sell them anymore, but mine does) and using them to transmit data between robots, how do I control the transmitters and recievers?
Henry, everything on the forums gets posted so everybody can use it(unless it is top secret). No need for email. If you want something by e-mail, just subscribe to the thread. As far as I know, nobody has used this transmitter/reciever set to go from robot to robot, but rather human to robot. If you want to hack into the transmitter you can, but help won't come from here. As for the reciever, I think you use the output to the motors, but I cannot guarantee you that becuase I have yet to get mine to work. This thread is kind of old and seems to be somewhat abandoned. Hope this helps more than bursts your bubble.
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LOOKDOWN ThisThread, [noparse][[/noparse]Your_?, My_?, Cool_Thing], looknum
LOOKUP looknum, [noparse][[/noparse]1, 2, 3], subnum
ON subnum GOTO Hope_this_helps, Thanks!, WOW!!
END
I picked up an older one on ebay that won't charge. Ahhh,... guess I'll have to use it for the Boe-Bot. I think I might have to buy another one, and mount an old computer mouse for the body, and drive it around on my desk.
Code Monkey; Thank you for all the insight.
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There are 10 types of people in this world,... Those that understand binary numbers, and those that don't!!!
Comments
That works perfectly, thank you! Bit hard to run from the dog, when I couldnt get out of spinning in a turn [noparse]:D[/noparse]
Anyways, to recap for anyone trying this, add a 2k (or so, I used 2.2k) pullup resistor from each control pin ( F,B,L,R) to VDD. This is probably not necessary for the "original" ZipZaps, but is required for the newer models. However, has not been tried with the SE models...
Whos gonna be 1st
Alohas, and thanks, all!!
I got an ZipZap SE and disassembled the car.
The steering does have a pot (unknown value) and there is a small motor for the steering.
So I guess it's the same thing as a servo...
I left the pot as is and tried the steering, the motor will go one way or the other depending on the steering wheel and it seem to center when I let go of the wheel by running the opposite way.
There is just one problem, let's say I turn the wheel all the way to the right quickly, the motor will get about a one second pulse. Then I go back slowly to the center with the wheel and I can now count about 5-4 pulses the opposite way that are about one second each.
So if I just counted the pulses, I would no longer be in center but 3-4 positions left so to say.
Guess the steering need the feedback from the pot to work properly...
Anyhow, I'm going to see if I can find one that is not SE to see if I have better luck...
▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
Living on the planet Earth might be expensive but it includes a free trip around the sun every year...
Experience level:
[noparse][[/noparse] ] Let's connect the motor to pin 1, it's a 6V motor so it should be fine.
[noparse][[/noparse] ] OK, I got my resistors hooked up with the LEDs.
[noparse][[/noparse]X] I got the Motor hooked up with the H-bridge and the 555 is supplying the PWM.
[noparse][[/noparse] ] Now, if I can only program the BOE-BOT to interface with he Flux Capacitor.
[noparse][[/noparse] ] I dream in SX28 assembler...
/Bamse
i have wired my zipzap as Codemonkey has shown however in a rest state (hands off r/c remote, or for that matter, the remote turned off) my IN3 IN4 IN10 IN11 states equal 1.· when i hit a button on the remote the values change to 0.· when releasing the button they return from 0 back to 1...?
my assumption is that the rest states should be 0, not 1.· is that correct?
i have tried various resistors as mentioned else where but with no luck.
after the second zip zap (never tested first before disassembly so not sure if it ever worked, but second zipzap ran fine before disassembly) i basically set this up on my homework board in an attempt to get it going but am still getting the same effect.· rest states are 1, not 0.
9V battery on homework board ok via voltmeter.· AAA batteries in remote ok per voltmeter.· not sure what to try...?·
checking IN3 IN4 IN10 IN11 in rest state shows 5v across each pin.· is this correct?· it seems odd that IN3 and IN4 would read anything other than 0 in the rest state as they are not in line with with the "power" part of the circuit.
checking for continuity across pins (thinking my solder job bled over to another point) shows that they are all·isolated.· how are IN3 and IN4 getting power in rest state?
using the provided code with only one addition to monitor pin states:
DEBUG HOME, "IN3= ",DEC IN3,"· IN4= ",DEC IN4, "· IN10= ",DEC IN10,"· IN11= ", DEC IN11 , CR
this was placed inside the Do..Loop
my initial thought was that some component on my BOE Bot (LED'S, sensors, speaker, LCD,·etc...)·was shorting, crossing, or otherwise interferring with the zip zap circuit but having moved to my unused homework board with no other circuit (not even servos) than the zipzap ·circuit and still getting the same effect i am at a loss...?
anybody have any thoughts or suggestions?· thanks!!
Post Edited (JC68) : 8/13/2006 3:16:54 AM GMT
From my understanding, on this segment of code
IF (IN3 = 0) THEN vResetVals = 0 GOSUB Set_Backward ELSEIF (IN4 = 0) THEN vResetVals = 0 GOSUB Set_Forward ENDIF ' check the left and right controls IF (IN10 = 0) THEN vResetVals = 0 GOSUB Set_Right ELSEIF (IN11 = 0) THEN vResetVals = 0 GOSUB Set_Leftthat is the part where it reads the info from the controller. To test, you could just have it run a simple program and print in the debug window the states of each line like:
IF (IN3 = 0) THEN DEBUG ("it went low")-Marc
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What is the range for the radio signal? Also do you just peel of the black plastic stuff from the board?
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D Faust
This is a cool hack. I have both old and new Zip Zaps in the closet...
By the way, the 4WD Monster Truck Model has cool tires, motors and drive system. It would be a great mini robot base.
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Whit+
"We keep moving forward, opening new doors, and doing new things, because we're curious and curiosity keeps leading us down new paths." - Walt Disney
I don't remember there being any black plastic stuff on the board. Maybe that is on the newer model?
-Marc
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D Faust
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PS Mine car was flawed also, that is why it is being put this use. They seem to be better for this purpose than the one originally intended. [noparse]:)[/noparse]
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D Faust
thankx
-Henry
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Code Monkey; Thank you for all the insight.
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David
There are 10 types of people in this world,...
Those that understand binary numbers, and those that don't!!!