Jose,
Yep, it was the white DynaArt paper. Thanks for the info.. I'll give
the new fuser a try. This looks more promising than the old ironing
technique.
In a message dated 4/15/2003 11:30:35 AM Pacific Daylight Time, prcoy@y... writes:
> Jose,
> Yep, it was the white DynaArt paper. Thanks for the info.. I'll give
> the new fuser a try. This looks more promising than the old ironing
> technique.
>
> Paul
Interesting,
I have had very good sucess with the "blue" iron on paper. As another person
posted, he lets the board cool to room temp before peeling off the paper.
After ironing, I cooled the board by running it under cold tap water (as
instructed to do so in the instructions).
[noparse][[/noparse]Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
I'm trying to picture this. If you put the components directly on the copper
traces, don't the IC's have to be "live bug" in order to have them be
pin-down to the board?
Mic
Original Message
From: kevin asato <kc6pob@y...>
To: <basicstamps@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, April 15, 2003 12:50 PM
Subject: Re: [noparse][[/noparse]basicstamps] Re: Personalized PCB boards
> For simple, 1 layer boards, how about putting the
> components directly on top of the etched copper? The
> traces are drawn in the normal sense instead of
> inverted so you don't have to be backwards to start
> with. The ICs are deadbugged and soldered directly to
> the copper as are the related discrete components.
> Troubleshooting is easy as you can follow the copper
> traces between parts.
>
> This is something that I have done to save on drilling
> and for low run prototyping.
>
> --- smartdim@a... wrote:
> > In a message dated 4/15/2003 7:25:15 AM Pacific
> > Daylight Time,
> > prcoy@y... writes:
> >
> > > I've tried the toner transfer method too..lousy
> > results. Out of 20
> > > tries I got maybe two boards and they still had to
> > be inked in with a
> > > sharpie in places. The paper package warns about
> > 'finicky' results
> > > with a narrow window of success. And yes it was
> > the first two boards
> > > that worked. That figures. The toner washes off
> > the boards with MEK.
> > > Now we're using Eagle Cad to a laser printed
> > transparency to
> > > presensitized boards with perfect results. The
> > toner washes off the
> > > transparency too btw. So they are reusable.
> >
> > Is what you speak of the same as an Iron on
> > transfer? I have had good
> > results with the iron on transfer. With a laser
> > printer, you print you layout
> > onto a special paper. Then iron the paper onto a
> > clean copper board, peel the
> > transfer off the board and etch.
> >
> > What is everybody doing for drilling the holes for
> > DIP packages? I can never
> > seem to get all the holes straight which makes
> > installation of the IC
> > difficult at times.
> >
> >
> >
> > [noparse][[/noparse]Non-text portions of this message have been
> > removed]
> >
> >
> > To UNSUBSCRIBE, just send mail to:
> > basicstamps-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> > from the same email address that you subscribed.
> > Text in the Subject and Body of the message will be
> > ignored.
> >
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> > http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
>
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do you Yahoo!?
> The New Yahoo! Search - Faster. Easier. Bingo
> http://search.yahoo.com
>
> To UNSUBSCRIBE, just send mail to:
> basicstamps-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> from the same email address that you subscribed. Text in the Subject and
Body of the message will be ignored.
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
Mic
Original Message
From: Larry Bradley <lhbradley@i...>
To: <basicstamps@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, April 15, 2003 2:26 PM
Subject: Re: [noparse][[/noparse]basicstamps] Re: Personalized PCB boards
> I haven't heard that term in years!
>
> It used to be used in the context of having to add an IC to a PC board
> after it had been built. You glued the IC on the board (or on top of
> another IC) upside down (with the legs pointing up, like a DEAD BUG!),
then
> wired it into the circuit. The UPSIDE DOWN is necessary to call it
> "deadbug" - if you do it right side up, to copper pads, the bug ain't
dead!
>
> Larry
>
>
> At 12:58 PM 4/15/2003 -0400, you wrote:
> >In a message dated 4/15/2003 9:52:38 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
> >kc6pob@y... writes:
> >
> > > The ICs are deadbugged and soldered directly to
> > > the copper as are the related discrete components.
> > >
> >
> >Deadbugged???
> >
> >Would I be correct to assume this means you bend the leads of your
components
> >and turn them into surface mounts?
> >
>
> Larry Bradley
> Orleans (Ottawa), Ontario, CANADA
>
>
> To UNSUBSCRIBE, just send mail to:
> basicstamps-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> from the same email address that you subscribed. Text in the Subject and
Body of the message will be ignored.
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
Is there a good working cheap laser printer out there to
print up the toner paper?
Am I correct you need a laser printer?
I remember a while ago there was a 4ppm inexpensive printer
but I haven't noticed these for quite a while. The laser jets seem
to be dominating, that's what I have anyway.
thanks as usual
Original Message
From: "Michael Duerksen" <michael_duerksen@c...>
To: <basicstamps@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, April 15, 2003 2:47 PM
Subject: Re: [noparse][[/noparse]basicstamps] Re: Personalized PCB boards
> Larry:
>
> I agree! I think he must have meant Live Bug.
>
> Mic
>
Original Message
> From: Larry Bradley <lhbradley@i...>
> To: <basicstamps@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, April 15, 2003 2:26 PM
> Subject: Re: [noparse][[/noparse]basicstamps] Re: Personalized PCB boards
>
>
> > I haven't heard that term in years!
> >
> > It used to be used in the context of having to add an IC to a PC board
> > after it had been built. You glued the IC on the board (or on top of
> > another IC) upside down (with the legs pointing up, like a DEAD BUG!),
> then
> > wired it into the circuit. The UPSIDE DOWN is necessary to call it
> > "deadbug" - if you do it right side up, to copper pads, the bug ain't
> dead!
> >
> > Larry
> >
> >
> > At 12:58 PM 4/15/2003 -0400, you wrote:
> > >In a message dated 4/15/2003 9:52:38 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
> > >kc6pob@y... writes:
> > >
> > > > The ICs are deadbugged and soldered directly to
> > > > the copper as are the related discrete components.
> > > >
> > >
> > >Deadbugged???
> > >
> > >Would I be correct to assume this means you bend the leads of your
> components
> > >and turn them into surface mounts?
> > >
> >
> > Larry Bradley
> > Orleans (Ottawa), Ontario, CANADA
> >
> >
> > To UNSUBSCRIBE, just send mail to:
> > basicstamps-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> > from the same email address that you subscribed. Text in the Subject
and
> Body of the message will be ignored.
> >
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
>
>
> To UNSUBSCRIBE, just send mail to:
> basicstamps-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> from the same email address that you subscribed. Text in the Subject and
Body of the message will be ignored.
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
In a message dated Tue, 15 Apr 2003 10:22:00, Fred Payne <fpayne@c...=
m>
writes:
<<
> As for drilling the holes for the DIP packages.=A0 I used a cad program fo=
r=20
> the art work.
> For the pads for each pin of the DIP, I used a donut with very small hole=20
> in the center.=A0 This helps the drill bit get centered when you start to=20
> drill.
>=20
> Fred
> >>
I'd add that a precision drill press greatly increases accuracy and reduces=20
broken bits. Any hobby tool supplier might have a suitable model - Micro-mar=
k=20
<http://www.micromark.com/> sells a nice miniature press that I use.
If you are making multiple boards, you can stack a couple and drill them at=20
the same time, though accuracy may suffer if you stack too many. Drill the=20
same couple of holes in opposite corners of two or more boards (one board at=
=20
a time), line them up by sighting through the holes, clamp them together,=20
then drill the rest of the holes.=20
David P. Reaves, III
TransLanTech Sound, LLC
<HTML><FONT FACE=3Darial,helvetica><FONT COLOR=3D"#000000" FACE=3D"Geneva" F=
AMILY=3D"SANSSERIF" SIZE=3D"2"><BR>
In a message dated Tue, 15 Apr 2003 10:22:00, Fred Payne <fpayne@comwares=
.com> writes:</FONT><FONT COLOR=3D"#000000" FACE=3D"Geneva" FAMILY=3D"SAN=
SSERIF" SIZE=3D"2"><BR>
<<</FONT><FONT COLOR=3D"#000000" FACE=3D"Geneva" FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF"=20=
SIZE=3D"2"><BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE CITE STYLE=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px;=20=
MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px" TYPE=3D"CITE"></FONT><FONT COLOR=3D"#0=
00000" FACE=3D"Geneva" FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF" SIZE=3D"2">As for drilling the h=
oles for the DIP packages.=A0 I used a cad program for the art work.<BR>
For the pads for each pin of the DIP, I used a donut with very small hole in=
the center.=A0 This helps the drill bit get centered when you start to dril=
l.<BR>
<BR>
Fred<BR>
</BLOCKQUOTE></FONT><FONT COLOR=3D"#000000" FACE=3D"Geneva" FAMILY=3D"SANSSE=
RIF" SIZE=3D"2">>><BR>
<BR>
<BR>
I'd add that a precision drill press greatly increases accuracy and reduces=20=
broken bits. Any hobby tool supplier might have a suitable model - Micro-mar=
k <http://www.micromark.com/> sells a nice miniature press that I use.=
<BR>
<BR>
If you are making multiple boards, you can stack a couple and drill them at=20=
the same time, though accuracy may suffer if you stack too many. Drill the s=
ame couple of holes in opposite corners of two or more boards (one board at=20=
a time), line them up by sighting through the holes, clamp them together, th=
en drill the rest of the holes. <BR>
<BR>
David P. Reaves, III<BR>
TransLanTech Sound, LLC</FONT><FONT COLOR=3D"#000000" FACE=3D"Geneva" FAMILY=
=3D"SANSSERIF" SIZE=3D"2"></FONT></HTML>
I have a drill press and an XY table. I can just buzz along with a row of
holes staying in line easily.
I know that is not much help.
-K
At 09:19 AM 4/15/03 -700, you wrote:
>> What is everybody doing for drilling the holes for DIP packages? I can
never
>> seem to get all the holes straight which makes installation of the IC
>> difficult at times.
>
>I don't have a trick here other than to drill carefully (tough to do
>when you have so many of them).
>
>Paul
>
>To UNSUBSCRIBE, just send mail to:
> basicstamps-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>from the same email address that you subscribed. Text in the Subject and
Body of the message will be ignored.
>
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
Very respectfully, your obedient servant.
Kerry Admin@M...
WWW server hosting [url=Http://mntnweb.com]Http://mntnweb.com[/url]
Kerry Barlow
p.o. box 21
kirkwood ny
13795
607-775-1575
At some point you have to figure what your time is worth and decide if its
cheaper to farm out your boards to one of the budget PCB shops. I laid out a
board for a BoEBot chassis with a very large breadboard area -- it would
have taken days to drill all the holes, and I have a small mill with a
readout on it.
Original Message
> I have a drill press and an XY table. I can just buzz along with a row of
> holes staying in line easily.
> >> What is everybody doing for drilling the holes for DIP packages? I can
> never
> >> seem to get all the holes straight which makes installation of the IC
> >> difficult at times.
> >
> >I don't have a trick here other than to drill carefully (tough to do
> >when you have so many of them).
I have a cnc table top mill that I think it would be
pretty easy to set up a drill system
do you think it is worth doing the home/hobby route
with a drill system?
thanks, your thoughts are valued
Original Message
From: "Rodent" <daweasel@s...>
To: <basicstamps@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, April 15, 2003 5:52 PM
Subject: Re: [noparse][[/noparse]basicstamps] Re: Personalized PCB boards
> At some point you have to figure what your time is worth and decide if its
> cheaper to farm out your boards to one of the budget PCB shops. I laid out
a
> board for a BoEBot chassis with a very large breadboard area -- it would
> have taken days to drill all the holes, and I have a small mill with a
> readout on it.
>
>
Original Message
>
> > I have a drill press and an XY table. I can just buzz along with a row
of
> > holes staying in line easily.
>
> > >> What is everybody doing for drilling the holes for DIP packages? I
can
> > never
> > >> seem to get all the holes straight which makes installation of the IC
> > >> difficult at times.
> > >
> > >I don't have a trick here other than to drill carefully (tough to do
> > >when you have so many of them).
>
>
>
>
> To UNSUBSCRIBE, just send mail to:
> basicstamps-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> from the same email address that you subscribed. Text in the Subject and
Body of the message will be ignored.
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
In a message dated 4/15/2003 3:58:52 PM Pacific Daylight Time, daweasel@s... writes:
> At some point you have to figure what your time is worth and decide if its
> cheaper to farm out your boards to one of the budget PCB shops. I laid out
> a
> board for a BoEBot chassis with a very large breadboard area -- it would
> have taken days to drill all the holes, and I have a small mill with a
> readout on it.
Well said......Making these boards can be time consuming.
[noparse][[/noparse]Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
In a message dated 4/15/2003 3:58:52 PM Pacific Daylight Time, daweasel@s... writes:
> At some point you have to figure what your time is worth and decide if
> its cheaper to farm out your boards to one of the budget PCB shops. I
> laid out a board for a BoEBot chassis with a very large breadboard
> area -- it would have taken days to drill all the holes, and I have a
> small mill with a readout on it.
Well said......Making these boards can be time consuming.
[noparse][[/noparse]Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
To UNSUBSCRIBE, just send mail to: basicstamps-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
from the same email address that you subscribed. Text in the Subject
and Body of the message will be ignored.
I always use apcircuits.com ; slightly cheaper in my experience, quick,
on-line price estimation.
On Tue, 22 Apr 2003, Grover Richardson wrote:
> Look at http://www.4pcb.com/ They have inexpensive boards and good
> turn around. Also, they can give you a price over the web if you are
> just looking. Just enter in the information and pop out comes the
> price.
>
>
Original Message
> From: smartdim@a... [noparse]/noparse]mailto:[url=http://forums.parallaxinc.com/group/basicstamps/post?postID=JaeCj0brLCVUvJLj7UIgC9cwjevriiINqcgGcFLxqwscSCJ1ZkBt0ma67MgTis2ocCrqdA2vRd8]smartdim@a...[/url
> Sent: Tuesday, April 15, 2003 7:59 PM
> To: basicstamps@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [noparse][[/noparse]basicstamps] Re: Personalized PCB boards
>
>
> In a message dated 4/15/2003 3:58:52 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
> daweasel@s... writes:
>
> > At some point you have to figure what your time is worth and decide if
>
> > its cheaper to farm out your boards to one of the budget PCB shops. I
> > laid out a board for a BoEBot chassis with a very large breadboard
> > area -- it would have taken days to drill all the holes, and I have a
> > small mill with a readout on it.
>
> Well said......Making these boards can be time consuming.
>
>
> [noparse][[/noparse]Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
> To UNSUBSCRIBE, just send mail to:
> basicstamps-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> from the same email address that you subscribed. Text in the Subject
> and Body of the message will be ignored.
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
> To UNSUBSCRIBE, just send mail to:
> basicstamps-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> from the same email address that you subscribed. Text in the Subject and Body
of the message will be ignored.
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
Sean T. Lamont, CTO / Chief NetNerd, Abstract Software, Inc. (ServNet)
Seattle - Bellingham - Vancouver - Portland - Everett - Tacoma - Bremerton
email: lamont@a... WWW: http://www.serv.net
"Do not fear mistakes, There Are None" - Miles Davis
I had one batch of 100 boards from Grover's recommended site (Advanced
Circuits) with defects in Dec '01. 15-20 boards had hole-to-hole solder
splash, sometimes from Vcc to ground, and other shorting problems. Took
me awhile to find the problems -- the last thing you suspect is a bad
board.
OTOH, I've had about a dozen other board batches from the same board
house without any QC problems.
Look at http://www.4pcb.com/ They have inexpensive boards and good
turn around. Also, they can give you a price over the web if you are
just looking. Just enter in the information and pop out comes the
price.
Having worked in a manufacturing environment, I can tell you board-level
defects are more common than you think. They are also harder for many
technicians to find because they are used to looking for failed parts and
assembly errors.
Budget board shops usually have a higher defect rate. Recently we had a 50
bad boards out of 500 -- and this was on a simple 2-sided board with two
surface mount IC's and about half a dozen resistors and caps. The problem
was a plating short where tracks passed between the IC pads.
The big boys pay the board shops to test the boards on a bed-of-nails
fixture and x-out the boards that fail. Sometimes board defects till make it
to the assembly house, but maybe one in 4000 boards.
Original Message
> I had one batch of 100 boards from Grover's recommended site (Advanced
> Circuits) with defects in Dec '01. 15-20 boards had hole-to-hole solder
> splash, sometimes from Vcc to ground, and other shorting problems. Took
> me awhile to find the problems -- the last thing you suspect is a bad
> board.
>
> OTOH, I've had about a dozen other board batches from the same board
> house without any QC problems.
> Look at http://www.4pcb.com/ They have inexpensive boards and good
> turn around. Also, they can give you a price over the web if you are
> just looking. Just enter in the information and pop out comes the
> price.
If you have the time in the schedule, look at having them redo them at
their expense. We have had them do that before, but then we send them
bunches of boards. Still, it's a matter of integrity<G>.
I had one batch of 100 boards from Grover's recommended site (Advanced
Circuits) with defects in Dec '01. 15-20 boards had hole-to-hole solder
splash, sometimes from Vcc to ground, and other shorting problems. Took
me awhile to find the problems -- the last thing you suspect is a bad
board.
OTOH, I've had about a dozen other board batches from the same board
house without any QC problems.
Look at http://www.4pcb.com/ They have inexpensive boards and good
turn around. Also, they can give you a price over the web if you are
just looking. Just enter in the information and pop out comes the
price.
To UNSUBSCRIBE, just send mail to: basicstamps-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
from the same email address that you subscribed. Text in the Subject
and Body of the message will be ignored.
I've been reading everyone's comments, and wanted to
throw out a quick-n-dirty PCB construction method I've
used for years with fantastic success. Please don't be
harsh as this has worked well for many dozens of
projects. It's a little rough, and is certainly not
for production volume or high chip-count projects, but
is great for the weekend project people. This method
yields a solid board with lots of ground plane and,
with a little practice, can produce boards adequate
for SMT devices, power devices, and even fairly
complex designs.
I use a Dremel tool to cut traces (or more accurately,
isolate traces) by removing copper from boards
wherever traces are needed. I start by using a pencil,
on a pre-selected piece of copper clad board, to draw
out the traces needed. I sometimes use graph paper to
do a rough-draft of the board layout. If cutting for
an IC, I use a "dummy" IC (same size and pin count)
with pre-formed leads and trace around the leads. With
caps and resistors, I also use real parts to gauge the
lead-length and traces needed. Where ever signals or
power enters or leaves the board, I simply leave a
1/2" pad to allow easy soldering and plenty of room
for the wire.
I then use a Dremel tool with a 1/4" carbide cutting
bit to remove the lines of copper leaving "traces"
within the isolated copper. I then clean the board
with Scotchbrite and "tin" the board with solder to
prevent corosion, and finally modify the components
for surface mounting. With DIP IC's, I simply bend the
leads out so they will fit flush to the board. With
resistors, caps, LED's, wires, and power devices, I do
the same by cutting and bending the leads so they can
be surface mounted. I then solder the parts on by
placing them against the board and applying enough
solder to hold them in place. I then add solder until
everything is electrically and mechanically secured.
The process works great and a PCB can go from
schematics to completed in less than an hour. I have
also placed through-hole parts by drawing their pads,
drilling the holes, and then drawing matching holes on
the other side. It works great!
Like I said, this not for high-volume, high chip-count
projects, and not suited for RF projects, but works
great on many power, motor control, interface, signal,
and other standard-sized component projects. This
exact process is done with CNC machines that do a much
finer job with micro-bits and software, but cost
tens-of-thousands to buy. Attached are a couple
pictures of projects. The first is an op-amp signal
conditioning board complete with regulator, and the
second shown a robot control board along with a
charging board and DC-to-DC converter.
Always be careful and be sure to wear eye and ear
protection. With some care and imagination, you can
build some cool boards in just minutes that are far
more durable than proto-boards or wire-wrap. And,
since copper clad board is very cheap, and Dremel
tools starting at around $30, you can start for less
than many board shops charge.
Please let me know what you think of this technique. I
love this and regularly use this method for most
projects. I even used this to make a car amplifier
which lasted six years in all climates, and is still
working after the car was sold.
Cheers,
DrDiode
--- Mike Dillon <laxboy687@e...> wrote:
> Hi all,
> I just wanted to know what was the best way to make
> your own PCB boards.
> I need my project to be permanent, and I have pretty
> good soldering
> skills I was just confused about what to get and
> maybe yall would share
> some tips if you have 'em.
>
> Thanx
> -Mike
>
>
> [noparse][[/noparse]Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
>
>
> To UNSUBSCRIBE, just send mail to:
> basicstamps-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> from the same email address that you subscribed.
> Text in the Subject and Body of the message will be
> ignored.
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
__________________________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
The New Yahoo! Search - Faster. Easier. Bingo http://search.yahoo.com
[noparse][[/noparse]Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
In a message dated 4/25/2003 5:18:39 PM Pacific Daylight Time, drdiode2002@y... writes:
> Attached are a couple
> pictures of projects. The first is an op-amp signal
> conditioning board complete with regulator, and the
> second shown a robot control board along with a
> charging board and DC-to-DC converter.
>
Unfortunately, the pics did not come through. Can you send to me off list?
I am quite interested in your unique approach, which seems quite reasonable
for the "one off's"
[noparse][[/noparse]Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Original Message
From: "PH" <drdiode2002@y...>
<snip>
| I use a Dremel tool to cut traces (or more accurately,
| isolate traces) by removing copper from boards
| wherever traces are needed. I start by using a pencil,
| on a pre-selected piece of copper clad board, to draw
| out the traces needed.
<snip>
Dr. Diode,
Hey, I've done this a lot, also. I've never done a whole circuit this way
(mostly 'cause I'm too darned lazy to mark everything out and keep from
cutting the traces) but I've made a lot of surface mount stuff this way. For
instance, I've made a small board for an ADXL202 (may not be the right
number, but you get the idea [noparse]:o[/noparse]) ) accelerometer from Analog. Works great,
and is way easier and cheaper than using a ready-made "surfboard" or
ordering a circuit board for the single device.
I've also heard of people dead-bugging SMT chips so they don't need a board
at all, but that's just not robust enough for the rough conditions most of
my projects have to live in (sailplanes, R/C airplanes, UAV's, sailplane
winches, etc.)
I've attached a photo of the accelerometer; it's a little messy, as I had to
bridge a couple of gaps I made with a dull bit, but it works fine.
- Robert
[noparse][[/noparse]Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Original Message
From: <smartdim@a...>
|
| > [noparse][[/noparse]Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
|
| Hey guys, read above.......fyi
Darn, I always forget that the Stamp group doesn't permit attachments. I'm
used to posting to other groups, most of which allow them... [noparse]:o[/noparse](
Especially darn, since it was a really cool picture! [noparse]:o[/noparse]D
You can download the picture to the Photos section of the list
Larry
--- In basicstamps@yahoogroups.com, "Robert Ussery" <uavscience@f...>
wrote:
>
>
Original Message
> From: <smartdim@a...>
> |
> | > [noparse][[/noparse]Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> |
> | Hey guys, read above.......fyi
>
> Darn, I always forget that the Stamp group doesn't permit
attachments. I'm
> used to posting to other groups, most of which allow them... [noparse]:o[/noparse](
> Especially darn, since it was a really cool picture! [noparse]:o[/noparse]D
>
> - Robert
Thank you everyone, for responding, I have tried a couple of methods,
the toner type and have messed it up royally.
Even though, ill probably send away for my board, unless Dr. Diode's
method works for me.
Again, thank you so much
-Mike
[noparse][[/noparse]Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Sorry for the picture mix-up. I thought attachments
would go through. If anyone is still interested, let
me know and I'll send them to you directly. I'll also
try to post them in the groups upload area.
Regards,
Dr. Diode
--- smartdim@a... wrote:
> In a message dated 4/25/2003 5:18:39 PM Pacific
> Daylight Time,
> drdiode2002@y... writes:
>
> > Attached are a couple
> > pictures of projects. The first is an op-amp
> signal
> > conditioning board complete with regulator, and
> the
> > second shown a robot control board along with a
> > charging board and DC-to-DC converter.
> >
>
> Unfortunately, the pics did not come through. Can
> you send to me off list?
> I am quite interested in your unique approach, which
> seems quite reasonable
> for the "one off's"
>
>
> [noparse][[/noparse]Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
>
>
> To UNSUBSCRIBE, just send mail to:
> basicstamps-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> from the same email address that you subscribed.
> Text in the Subject and Body of the message will be
> ignored.
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
The New Yahoo! Search - Faster. Easier. Bingo. http://search.yahoo.com
Comments
Yep, it was the white DynaArt paper. Thanks for the info.. I'll give
the new fuser a try. This looks more promising than the old ironing
technique.
Paul
--- In basicstamps@yahoogroups.com, "Jos
prcoy@y... writes:
> Jose,
> Yep, it was the white DynaArt paper. Thanks for the info.. I'll give
> the new fuser a try. This looks more promising than the old ironing
> technique.
>
> Paul
Interesting,
I have had very good sucess with the "blue" iron on paper. As another person
posted, he lets the board cool to room temp before peeling off the paper.
After ironing, I cooled the board by running it under cold tap water (as
instructed to do so in the instructions).
[noparse][[/noparse]Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
I'm trying to picture this. If you put the components directly on the copper
traces, don't the IC's have to be "live bug" in order to have them be
pin-down to the board?
Mic
Original Message
From: kevin asato <kc6pob@y...>
To: <basicstamps@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, April 15, 2003 12:50 PM
Subject: Re: [noparse][[/noparse]basicstamps] Re: Personalized PCB boards
> For simple, 1 layer boards, how about putting the
> components directly on top of the etched copper? The
> traces are drawn in the normal sense instead of
> inverted so you don't have to be backwards to start
> with. The ICs are deadbugged and soldered directly to
> the copper as are the related discrete components.
> Troubleshooting is easy as you can follow the copper
> traces between parts.
>
> This is something that I have done to save on drilling
> and for low run prototyping.
>
> --- smartdim@a... wrote:
> > In a message dated 4/15/2003 7:25:15 AM Pacific
> > Daylight Time,
> > prcoy@y... writes:
> >
> > > I've tried the toner transfer method too..lousy
> > results. Out of 20
> > > tries I got maybe two boards and they still had to
> > be inked in with a
> > > sharpie in places. The paper package warns about
> > 'finicky' results
> > > with a narrow window of success. And yes it was
> > the first two boards
> > > that worked. That figures. The toner washes off
> > the boards with MEK.
> > > Now we're using Eagle Cad to a laser printed
> > transparency to
> > > presensitized boards with perfect results. The
> > toner washes off the
> > > transparency too btw. So they are reusable.
> >
> > Is what you speak of the same as an Iron on
> > transfer? I have had good
> > results with the iron on transfer. With a laser
> > printer, you print you layout
> > onto a special paper. Then iron the paper onto a
> > clean copper board, peel the
> > transfer off the board and etch.
> >
> > What is everybody doing for drilling the holes for
> > DIP packages? I can never
> > seem to get all the holes straight which makes
> > installation of the IC
> > difficult at times.
> >
> >
> >
> > [noparse][[/noparse]Non-text portions of this message have been
> > removed]
> >
> >
> > To UNSUBSCRIBE, just send mail to:
> > basicstamps-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> > from the same email address that you subscribed.
> > Text in the Subject and Body of the message will be
> > ignored.
> >
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> > http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
>
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do you Yahoo!?
> The New Yahoo! Search - Faster. Easier. Bingo
> http://search.yahoo.com
>
> To UNSUBSCRIBE, just send mail to:
> basicstamps-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> from the same email address that you subscribed. Text in the Subject and
Body of the message will be ignored.
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
I agree! I think he must have meant Live Bug.
Mic
Original Message
From: Larry Bradley <lhbradley@i...>
To: <basicstamps@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, April 15, 2003 2:26 PM
Subject: Re: [noparse][[/noparse]basicstamps] Re: Personalized PCB boards
> I haven't heard that term in years!
>
> It used to be used in the context of having to add an IC to a PC board
> after it had been built. You glued the IC on the board (or on top of
> another IC) upside down (with the legs pointing up, like a DEAD BUG!),
then
> wired it into the circuit. The UPSIDE DOWN is necessary to call it
> "deadbug" - if you do it right side up, to copper pads, the bug ain't
dead!
>
> Larry
>
>
> At 12:58 PM 4/15/2003 -0400, you wrote:
> >In a message dated 4/15/2003 9:52:38 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
> >kc6pob@y... writes:
> >
> > > The ICs are deadbugged and soldered directly to
> > > the copper as are the related discrete components.
> > >
> >
> >Deadbugged???
> >
> >Would I be correct to assume this means you bend the leads of your
components
> >and turn them into surface mounts?
> >
>
> Larry Bradley
> Orleans (Ottawa), Ontario, CANADA
>
>
> To UNSUBSCRIBE, just send mail to:
> basicstamps-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> from the same email address that you subscribed. Text in the Subject and
Body of the message will be ignored.
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
Is there a good working cheap laser printer out there to
print up the toner paper?
Am I correct you need a laser printer?
I remember a while ago there was a 4ppm inexpensive printer
but I haven't noticed these for quite a while. The laser jets seem
to be dominating, that's what I have anyway.
thanks as usual
Original Message
From: "Michael Duerksen" <michael_duerksen@c...>
To: <basicstamps@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, April 15, 2003 2:47 PM
Subject: Re: [noparse][[/noparse]basicstamps] Re: Personalized PCB boards
> Larry:
>
> I agree! I think he must have meant Live Bug.
>
> Mic
>
Original Message
> From: Larry Bradley <lhbradley@i...>
> To: <basicstamps@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, April 15, 2003 2:26 PM
> Subject: Re: [noparse][[/noparse]basicstamps] Re: Personalized PCB boards
>
>
> > I haven't heard that term in years!
> >
> > It used to be used in the context of having to add an IC to a PC board
> > after it had been built. You glued the IC on the board (or on top of
> > another IC) upside down (with the legs pointing up, like a DEAD BUG!),
> then
> > wired it into the circuit. The UPSIDE DOWN is necessary to call it
> > "deadbug" - if you do it right side up, to copper pads, the bug ain't
> dead!
> >
> > Larry
> >
> >
> > At 12:58 PM 4/15/2003 -0400, you wrote:
> > >In a message dated 4/15/2003 9:52:38 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
> > >kc6pob@y... writes:
> > >
> > > > The ICs are deadbugged and soldered directly to
> > > > the copper as are the related discrete components.
> > > >
> > >
> > >Deadbugged???
> > >
> > >Would I be correct to assume this means you bend the leads of your
> components
> > >and turn them into surface mounts?
> > >
> >
> > Larry Bradley
> > Orleans (Ottawa), Ontario, CANADA
> >
> >
> > To UNSUBSCRIBE, just send mail to:
> > basicstamps-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> > from the same email address that you subscribed. Text in the Subject
and
> Body of the message will be ignored.
> >
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
>
>
> To UNSUBSCRIBE, just send mail to:
> basicstamps-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> from the same email address that you subscribed. Text in the Subject and
Body of the message will be ignored.
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
m>
writes:
<<
> As for drilling the holes for the DIP packages.=A0 I used a cad program fo=
r=20
> the art work.
> For the pads for each pin of the DIP, I used a donut with very small hole=20
> in the center.=A0 This helps the drill bit get centered when you start to=20
> drill.
>=20
> Fred
> >>
I'd add that a precision drill press greatly increases accuracy and reduces=20
broken bits. Any hobby tool supplier might have a suitable model - Micro-mar=
k=20
<http://www.micromark.com/> sells a nice miniature press that I use.
If you are making multiple boards, you can stack a couple and drill them at=20
the same time, though accuracy may suffer if you stack too many. Drill the=20
same couple of holes in opposite corners of two or more boards (one board at=
=20
a time), line them up by sighting through the holes, clamp them together,=20
then drill the rest of the holes.=20
David P. Reaves, III
TransLanTech Sound, LLC
<HTML><FONT FACE=3Darial,helvetica><FONT COLOR=3D"#000000" FACE=3D"Geneva" F=
AMILY=3D"SANSSERIF" SIZE=3D"2"><BR>
In a message dated Tue, 15 Apr 2003 10:22:00, Fred Payne <fpayne@comwares=
.com> writes:</FONT><FONT COLOR=3D"#000000" FACE=3D"Geneva" FAMILY=3D"SAN=
SSERIF" SIZE=3D"2"><BR>
<<</FONT><FONT COLOR=3D"#000000" FACE=3D"Geneva" FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF"=20=
SIZE=3D"2"><BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE CITE STYLE=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px;=20=
MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px" TYPE=3D"CITE"></FONT><FONT COLOR=3D"#0=
00000" FACE=3D"Geneva" FAMILY=3D"SANSSERIF" SIZE=3D"2">As for drilling the h=
oles for the DIP packages.=A0 I used a cad program for the art work.<BR>
For the pads for each pin of the DIP, I used a donut with very small hole in=
the center.=A0 This helps the drill bit get centered when you start to dril=
l.<BR>
<BR>
Fred<BR>
</BLOCKQUOTE></FONT><FONT COLOR=3D"#000000" FACE=3D"Geneva" FAMILY=3D"SANSSE=
RIF" SIZE=3D"2">>><BR>
<BR>
<BR>
I'd add that a precision drill press greatly increases accuracy and reduces=20=
broken bits. Any hobby tool supplier might have a suitable model - Micro-mar=
k <http://www.micromark.com/> sells a nice miniature press that I use.=
<BR>
<BR>
If you are making multiple boards, you can stack a couple and drill them at=20=
the same time, though accuracy may suffer if you stack too many. Drill the s=
ame couple of holes in opposite corners of two or more boards (one board at=20=
a time), line them up by sighting through the holes, clamp them together, th=
en drill the rest of the holes. <BR>
<BR>
David P. Reaves, III<BR>
TransLanTech Sound, LLC</FONT><FONT COLOR=3D"#000000" FACE=3D"Geneva" FAMILY=
=3D"SANSSERIF" SIZE=3D"2"></FONT></HTML>
holes staying in line easily.
I know that is not much help.
-K
At 09:19 AM 4/15/03 -700, you wrote:
>> What is everybody doing for drilling the holes for DIP packages? I can
never
>> seem to get all the holes straight which makes installation of the IC
>> difficult at times.
>
>I don't have a trick here other than to drill carefully (tough to do
>when you have so many of them).
>
>Paul
>
>To UNSUBSCRIBE, just send mail to:
> basicstamps-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>from the same email address that you subscribed. Text in the Subject and
Body of the message will be ignored.
>
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
Very respectfully, your obedient servant.
Kerry
Admin@M...
WWW server hosting [url=Http://mntnweb.com]Http://mntnweb.com[/url]
Kerry Barlow
p.o. box 21
kirkwood ny
13795
607-775-1575
cheaper to farm out your boards to one of the budget PCB shops. I laid out a
board for a BoEBot chassis with a very large breadboard area -- it would
have taken days to drill all the holes, and I have a small mill with a
readout on it.
Original Message
> I have a drill press and an XY table. I can just buzz along with a row of
> holes staying in line easily.
> >> What is everybody doing for drilling the holes for DIP packages? I can
> never
> >> seem to get all the holes straight which makes installation of the IC
> >> difficult at times.
> >
> >I don't have a trick here other than to drill carefully (tough to do
> >when you have so many of them).
pretty easy to set up a drill system
do you think it is worth doing the home/hobby route
with a drill system?
thanks, your thoughts are valued
Original Message
From: "Rodent" <daweasel@s...>
To: <basicstamps@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, April 15, 2003 5:52 PM
Subject: Re: [noparse][[/noparse]basicstamps] Re: Personalized PCB boards
> At some point you have to figure what your time is worth and decide if its
> cheaper to farm out your boards to one of the budget PCB shops. I laid out
a
> board for a BoEBot chassis with a very large breadboard area -- it would
> have taken days to drill all the holes, and I have a small mill with a
> readout on it.
>
>
Original Message
>
> > I have a drill press and an XY table. I can just buzz along with a row
of
> > holes staying in line easily.
>
> > >> What is everybody doing for drilling the holes for DIP packages? I
can
> > never
> > >> seem to get all the holes straight which makes installation of the IC
> > >> difficult at times.
> > >
> > >I don't have a trick here other than to drill carefully (tough to do
> > >when you have so many of them).
>
>
>
>
> To UNSUBSCRIBE, just send mail to:
> basicstamps-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> from the same email address that you subscribed. Text in the Subject and
Body of the message will be ignored.
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
daweasel@s... writes:
> At some point you have to figure what your time is worth and decide if its
> cheaper to farm out your boards to one of the budget PCB shops. I laid out
> a
> board for a BoEBot chassis with a very large breadboard area -- it would
> have taken days to drill all the holes, and I have a small mill with a
> readout on it.
Well said......Making these boards can be time consuming.
[noparse][[/noparse]Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
turn around. Also, they can give you a price over the web if you are
just looking. Just enter in the information and pop out comes the
price.
Original Message
From: smartdim@a... [noparse]/noparse]mailto:[url=http://forums.parallaxinc.com/group/basicstamps/post?postID=JsVzyA3gCTck1mDDtOy57DYYF3WxJ2pN_V6kHQbkRCXEJtfCxdwPlTi6E6nvHuT6pIysxLfeo61l]smartdim@a...[/url
Sent: Tuesday, April 15, 2003 7:59 PM
To: basicstamps@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [noparse][[/noparse]basicstamps] Re: Personalized PCB boards
In a message dated 4/15/2003 3:58:52 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
daweasel@s... writes:
> At some point you have to figure what your time is worth and decide if
> its cheaper to farm out your boards to one of the budget PCB shops. I
> laid out a board for a BoEBot chassis with a very large breadboard
> area -- it would have taken days to drill all the holes, and I have a
> small mill with a readout on it.
Well said......Making these boards can be time consuming.
[noparse][[/noparse]Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
To UNSUBSCRIBE, just send mail to:
basicstamps-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
from the same email address that you subscribed. Text in the Subject
and Body of the message will be ignored.
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
on-line price estimation.
On Tue, 22 Apr 2003, Grover Richardson wrote:
> Look at http://www.4pcb.com/ They have inexpensive boards and good
> turn around. Also, they can give you a price over the web if you are
> just looking. Just enter in the information and pop out comes the
> price.
>
>
Original Message
> From: smartdim@a... [noparse]/noparse]mailto:[url=http://forums.parallaxinc.com/group/basicstamps/post?postID=JaeCj0brLCVUvJLj7UIgC9cwjevriiINqcgGcFLxqwscSCJ1ZkBt0ma67MgTis2ocCrqdA2vRd8]smartdim@a...[/url
> Sent: Tuesday, April 15, 2003 7:59 PM
> To: basicstamps@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [noparse][[/noparse]basicstamps] Re: Personalized PCB boards
>
>
> In a message dated 4/15/2003 3:58:52 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
> daweasel@s... writes:
>
> > At some point you have to figure what your time is worth and decide if
>
> > its cheaper to farm out your boards to one of the budget PCB shops. I
> > laid out a board for a BoEBot chassis with a very large breadboard
> > area -- it would have taken days to drill all the holes, and I have a
> > small mill with a readout on it.
>
> Well said......Making these boards can be time consuming.
>
>
> [noparse][[/noparse]Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
> To UNSUBSCRIBE, just send mail to:
> basicstamps-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> from the same email address that you subscribed. Text in the Subject
> and Body of the message will be ignored.
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
> To UNSUBSCRIBE, just send mail to:
> basicstamps-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> from the same email address that you subscribed. Text in the Subject and Body
of the message will be ignored.
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
Sean T. Lamont, CTO / Chief NetNerd, Abstract Software, Inc. (ServNet)
Seattle - Bellingham - Vancouver - Portland - Everett - Tacoma - Bremerton
email: lamont@a... WWW: http://www.serv.net
"Do not fear mistakes, There Are None" - Miles Davis
Circuits) with defects in Dec '01. 15-20 boards had hole-to-hole solder
splash, sometimes from Vcc to ground, and other shorting problems. Took
me awhile to find the problems -- the last thing you suspect is a bad
board.
OTOH, I've had about a dozen other board batches from the same board
house without any QC problems.
Dennis
Original Message
From: Grover Richardson [noparse]/noparse]mailto:[url=http://forums.parallaxinc.com/group/basicstamps/post?postID=tJLZPabPhPHqA5fqaXL6tu3dyT__OzhFKtBzGwklNEUoRj_CHBzkYPVcE-57hOJ7Go4-_a7mXidF-74X3hGXYS-6UQo28HA]grover.richardson@g...[/url
Sent: Tuesday, April 22, 2003 6:54 AM
To: basicstamps@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [noparse][[/noparse]basicstamps] Re: Personalized PCB boards
Look at http://www.4pcb.com/ They have inexpensive boards and good
turn around. Also, they can give you a price over the web if you are
just looking. Just enter in the information and pop out comes the
price.
defects are more common than you think. They are also harder for many
technicians to find because they are used to looking for failed parts and
assembly errors.
Budget board shops usually have a higher defect rate. Recently we had a 50
bad boards out of 500 -- and this was on a simple 2-sided board with two
surface mount IC's and about half a dozen resistors and caps. The problem
was a plating short where tracks passed between the IC pads.
The big boys pay the board shops to test the boards on a bed-of-nails
fixture and x-out the boards that fail. Sometimes board defects till make it
to the assembly house, but maybe one in 4000 boards.
Original Message
> I had one batch of 100 boards from Grover's recommended site (Advanced
> Circuits) with defects in Dec '01. 15-20 boards had hole-to-hole solder
> splash, sometimes from Vcc to ground, and other shorting problems. Took
> me awhile to find the problems -- the last thing you suspect is a bad
> board.
>
> OTOH, I've had about a dozen other board batches from the same board
> house without any QC problems.
> Look at http://www.4pcb.com/ They have inexpensive boards and good
> turn around. Also, they can give you a price over the web if you are
> just looking. Just enter in the information and pop out comes the
> price.
their expense. We have had them do that before, but then we send them
bunches of boards. Still, it's a matter of integrity<G>.
The first thing we expect is a bad board<G>. Many a time the board was
made exactly as specified, but the layout was a bust. Upside down
parts, wrong pin call out. It's been better since we automated the
process. Mostly we use Orcad.
Original Message
From: Dennis P. O'Leary [noparse]/noparse]mailto:[url=http://forums.parallaxinc.com/group/basicstamps/post?postID=iTwXVG6TI_PmbKvyjzAT70mnmIfYEbhPYo-zJxQhXks27BhOeTGRFEhyibsKfVpdX_9aDDypPXMK7PJq]doleary@e...[/url
Sent: Wednesday, April 23, 2003 12:59 AM
To: basicstamps@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [noparse][[/noparse]basicstamps] Re: Personalized PCB boards
I had one batch of 100 boards from Grover's recommended site (Advanced
Circuits) with defects in Dec '01. 15-20 boards had hole-to-hole solder
splash, sometimes from Vcc to ground, and other shorting problems. Took
me awhile to find the problems -- the last thing you suspect is a bad
board.
OTOH, I've had about a dozen other board batches from the same board
house without any QC problems.
Dennis
Original Message
From: Grover Richardson [noparse]/noparse]mailto:[url=http://forums.parallaxinc.com/group/basicstamps/post?postID=OXRdFyzo3-NpVt_3_wnUTdACaReuJ0fCk8SFUSUnNXP1S3AhKU9J5V2BywltX4pj2iA9Tp9uJD8a4x-LIxeCjI7vqaygr4u5vFcp8w]grover.richardson@g...[/url
Sent: Tuesday, April 22, 2003 6:54 AM
To: basicstamps@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [noparse][[/noparse]basicstamps] Re: Personalized PCB boards
Look at http://www.4pcb.com/ They have inexpensive boards and good
turn around. Also, they can give you a price over the web if you are
just looking. Just enter in the information and pop out comes the
price.
To UNSUBSCRIBE, just send mail to:
basicstamps-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
from the same email address that you subscribed. Text in the Subject
and Body of the message will be ignored.
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
I've been reading everyone's comments, and wanted to
throw out a quick-n-dirty PCB construction method I've
used for years with fantastic success. Please don't be
harsh as this has worked well for many dozens of
projects. It's a little rough, and is certainly not
for production volume or high chip-count projects, but
is great for the weekend project people. This method
yields a solid board with lots of ground plane and,
with a little practice, can produce boards adequate
for SMT devices, power devices, and even fairly
complex designs.
I use a Dremel tool to cut traces (or more accurately,
isolate traces) by removing copper from boards
wherever traces are needed. I start by using a pencil,
on a pre-selected piece of copper clad board, to draw
out the traces needed. I sometimes use graph paper to
do a rough-draft of the board layout. If cutting for
an IC, I use a "dummy" IC (same size and pin count)
with pre-formed leads and trace around the leads. With
caps and resistors, I also use real parts to gauge the
lead-length and traces needed. Where ever signals or
power enters or leaves the board, I simply leave a
1/2" pad to allow easy soldering and plenty of room
for the wire.
I then use a Dremel tool with a 1/4" carbide cutting
bit to remove the lines of copper leaving "traces"
within the isolated copper. I then clean the board
with Scotchbrite and "tin" the board with solder to
prevent corosion, and finally modify the components
for surface mounting. With DIP IC's, I simply bend the
leads out so they will fit flush to the board. With
resistors, caps, LED's, wires, and power devices, I do
the same by cutting and bending the leads so they can
be surface mounted. I then solder the parts on by
placing them against the board and applying enough
solder to hold them in place. I then add solder until
everything is electrically and mechanically secured.
The process works great and a PCB can go from
schematics to completed in less than an hour. I have
also placed through-hole parts by drawing their pads,
drilling the holes, and then drawing matching holes on
the other side. It works great!
Like I said, this not for high-volume, high chip-count
projects, and not suited for RF projects, but works
great on many power, motor control, interface, signal,
and other standard-sized component projects. This
exact process is done with CNC machines that do a much
finer job with micro-bits and software, but cost
tens-of-thousands to buy. Attached are a couple
pictures of projects. The first is an op-amp signal
conditioning board complete with regulator, and the
second shown a robot control board along with a
charging board and DC-to-DC converter.
Always be careful and be sure to wear eye and ear
protection. With some care and imagination, you can
build some cool boards in just minutes that are far
more durable than proto-boards or wire-wrap. And,
since copper clad board is very cheap, and Dremel
tools starting at around $30, you can start for less
than many board shops charge.
Please let me know what you think of this technique. I
love this and regularly use this method for most
projects. I even used this to make a car amplifier
which lasted six years in all climates, and is still
working after the car was sold.
Cheers,
DrDiode
--- Mike Dillon <laxboy687@e...> wrote:
> Hi all,
> I just wanted to know what was the best way to make
> your own PCB boards.
> I need my project to be permanent, and I have pretty
> good soldering
> skills I was just confused about what to get and
> maybe yall would share
> some tips if you have 'em.
>
> Thanx
> -Mike
>
>
> [noparse][[/noparse]Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
>
>
> To UNSUBSCRIBE, just send mail to:
> basicstamps-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> from the same email address that you subscribed.
> Text in the Subject and Body of the message will be
> ignored.
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
__________________________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
The New Yahoo! Search - Faster. Easier. Bingo
http://search.yahoo.com
[noparse][[/noparse]Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
drdiode2002@y... writes:
> Attached are a couple
> pictures of projects. The first is an op-amp signal
> conditioning board complete with regulator, and the
> second shown a robot control board along with a
> charging board and DC-to-DC converter.
>
Unfortunately, the pics did not come through. Can you send to me off list?
I am quite interested in your unique approach, which seems quite reasonable
for the "one off's"
[noparse][[/noparse]Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Original Message
From: "PH" <drdiode2002@y...>
<snip>
| I use a Dremel tool to cut traces (or more accurately,
| isolate traces) by removing copper from boards
| wherever traces are needed. I start by using a pencil,
| on a pre-selected piece of copper clad board, to draw
| out the traces needed.
<snip>
Dr. Diode,
Hey, I've done this a lot, also. I've never done a whole circuit this way
(mostly 'cause I'm too darned lazy to mark everything out and keep from
cutting the traces) but I've made a lot of surface mount stuff this way. For
instance, I've made a small board for an ADXL202 (may not be the right
number, but you get the idea [noparse]:o[/noparse]) ) accelerometer from Analog. Works great,
and is way easier and cheaper than using a ready-made "surfboard" or
ordering a circuit board for the single device.
I've also heard of people dead-bugging SMT chips so they don't need a board
at all, but that's just not robust enough for the rough conditions most of
my projects have to live in (sailplanes, R/C airplanes, UAV's, sailplane
winches, etc.)
I've attached a photo of the accelerometer; it's a little messy, as I had to
bridge a couple of gaps I made with a dull bit, but it works fine.
- Robert
[noparse][[/noparse]Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
uavscience@f... writes:
> [noparse][[/noparse]Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Hey guys, read above.......fyi
[noparse][[/noparse]Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Original Message
From: <smartdim@a...>
|
| > [noparse][[/noparse]Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
|
| Hey guys, read above.......fyi
Darn, I always forget that the Stamp group doesn't permit attachments. I'm
used to posting to other groups, most of which allow them... [noparse]:o[/noparse](
Especially darn, since it was a really cool picture! [noparse]:o[/noparse]D
- Robert
Larry
--- In basicstamps@yahoogroups.com, "Robert Ussery" <uavscience@f...>
wrote:
>
>
Original Message
> From: <smartdim@a...>
> |
> | > [noparse][[/noparse]Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> |
> | Hey guys, read above.......fyi
>
> Darn, I always forget that the Stamp group doesn't permit
attachments. I'm
> used to posting to other groups, most of which allow them... [noparse]:o[/noparse](
> Especially darn, since it was a really cool picture! [noparse]:o[/noparse]D
>
> - Robert
LJGeib@a... writes:
>
> You can download the picture to the Photos section of the list
>
> Larry
>
Photos section????? never heard of that one.....URL?
[noparse][[/noparse]Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
the toner type and have messed it up royally.
Even though, ill probably send away for my board, unless Dr. Diode's
method works for me.
Again, thank you so much
-Mike
[noparse][[/noparse]Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Sorry for the picture mix-up. I thought attachments
would go through. If anyone is still interested, let
me know and I'll send them to you directly. I'll also
try to post them in the groups upload area.
Regards,
Dr. Diode
--- smartdim@a... wrote:
> In a message dated 4/25/2003 5:18:39 PM Pacific
> Daylight Time,
> drdiode2002@y... writes:
>
> > Attached are a couple
> > pictures of projects. The first is an op-amp
> signal
> > conditioning board complete with regulator, and
> the
> > second shown a robot control board along with a
> > charging board and DC-to-DC converter.
> >
>
> Unfortunately, the pics did not come through. Can
> you send to me off list?
> I am quite interested in your unique approach, which
> seems quite reasonable
> for the "one off's"
>
>
> [noparse][[/noparse]Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
>
>
> To UNSUBSCRIBE, just send mail to:
> basicstamps-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> from the same email address that you subscribed.
> Text in the Subject and Body of the message will be
> ignored.
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
The New Yahoo! Search - Faster. Easier. Bingo.
http://search.yahoo.com