My 3d printer died while tweeking the frame and hinge to fit the screen size precisely
The hotend keeps clogging. After many attempts looks like i need a new tip - my son has spares so i need to get one from him.
I've recently starting making some production parts where we do a few steps (sanding, abrading, etc) after the print. The final parts come up really well, its very hard to tell they were 3d printed
I get really good prints from my cheapo Creality Ender 3.
Putting a schampfer on the edges really makes boxes look so much better. I don't do any post-processing except to trim any external "lumps" or "string". I've got a cheap tool for this.
Fixed my 3d printer. I think with the heavy rain and high humidity, my PLA+ absorbed moisture and my nozzle clogged. While i cleaned it and reseated the bowden tube, it didn’t totally fix it. I installed a new nozzle, and while at it i replaced the bowden tube with a better one (had it ready but hadn’t seen the need for it). And the bowden clamp at the feed in end (better clamp on the tube (again had it ready).
All now working fine and i printed my stencil frame an hinge (about 5 1/2 hours) and everything fits
I will heat my PLA+ to remove the moisture next week too.
Here’s a pic of the frame and hinge. Note the provision for screws to hold the stencil in place, but not yet fitted. And a pic of my Creality Ender 3 - under US$200 shipped to Oz.
Had it made by pcb manufacturer. It’s created as part of KiCad and uses the included footprints or those you make yourself. I created the P2 footprint using the supplied TQFP100 as the base.
yes. It wasn't in my parts bin so I thought I would go back to that when I finished, but as you know, the best laid plans aren't always executed as intended
If you load up the TAQOZ binary you can plug in VGA (normally on P0..4) and view pictures, play audio, play video or just plain change the console output to VGA.
Load _BOOT_P2.BIX onto the root directory of a FAT32 card.
TAQOZ will automatically load and report to a serial console.
As of June 21, 2020 this defaults to a safe 115200 8N1.
Current version is 2.6 which has the basic set of modules loaded as others can be added very easily.
CARD: SANDISK SD SC64G REV$80 #35190404 DATE:2018/10
KERNEL Parallax P2 *TAQOZ RELOADED sIDE* V2.6 'CHIP' Prop_Ver G 200MHz 200621-1000
MODULES:
1508 *TEXT* VGA BMP TEXT 190800-0000
1260 *BMV* BMV VIDEO PLAYER 190800-0000
772 *WAVE* WAVE AUDIO FILE PLAYER 190800-0000
430 *BMP* BMP FILE VIEWER 190800-0000
1944 *TIM* TAQOZ INTERACTIVE MEDIA - AUDIO, TEXT, IMAGE & VIDEO DRIVERS 200403-1200
4866 *TIA* TAQOZ INTERACTIVE ASSEMBLER for the PARALLAX P2 - 200327-2300
2528 *DISK* SD DISK REPORTING & FORMATTING TOOLS 190800-0000
4756 *TAFFS* TAQOZ FAT32 FILE SYSTEM for SD CARD plus VIRTUAL MEMORY 200621-1000
1400 *SPIRAM* LY68L6400 8MB SPI RAM ACCESS 191020-0000
1774 *DECOMPILER* A decompiler for TAQOZ 190825-0000
1312 *RTC* RV-3028 RTC DATE and TIME 190800-0000
814 *SMARTPINS* SMARTPIN FUNCTIONS and drive modes 190800-0000
400 *P2CLOCK* P2 CLOCK CONTROL 190800-0000
2184 *ANSI* ANSI TERMINAL SUPPORT 200410-0000
396 *EXTEND* Primary kernel extensions 200621-1000
5754 *SPIFLASH*
MEMORY MAP
CODE: 09DC4 40,388 bytes
WORDS: 1C14E 15,905 bytes
DATA: 01F40 1,138 bytes
ROOM: 74,634 bytes
HARDWARE
PCB P2 (P2D2)
CLOCK IN 20.000000MHZ
DEVICES
SD CARD 63 GB SANDISK SD SC64G REV$80 #35190404 DATE:2018/10
SPI FLASH 16MB WINBOND $EF40_1800 #4837448895114529879
USB Silicon LaBS, EFM8UB3 P2D2v4 USB Bridge UB3_2.5.7A, 0005
I2C DEVICES
$36 P2D2 UB USB+SUPPORT UUID:039BAD5834DEE811A8D742B1A51F80DA
$A4 RV-3028 RTC
$C4 Si5351A CLOCK GEN
2020/06/21 SUN 12:04:45 28.42'C Vdd=1.832V
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
TAQOZ#
I’ve soldered my VGA connector. It’s on p27-31 where VSync is on p27 and the rest are standard on the 4 pin group beginning p28-31.
Over the w/e I’ll mod Chip’s VGA driver to use these pins and test it out.
I haven’t tried downloading any code yet. I’m done for the night.
I have LCD code that’s simple to test a group of 8 pins as all LCD pins including 3V3 and GND go to a prop pin. By poking the pins into the header holes and applying slight pressure I can test without soldering headers.
Well, if you do want to talk to VGA and interactively change the resolutions etc you can reconfigure the VGA config at memory location $20 for the combined hsyn.red.green.blue and $24 for the vsync like this:
TAQOZ# 27 $24 ! &31.30.29.28 $20 ! --- ok
Then BACKUP BIX as a shortcut to backup to the BIX file then reboot and VGA will default to 640x480x8. Type VGA and console output will appear on the VGA monitor as 106x48 text.
Some preset HD resolutions are 144p 180p 360p 720p 1080p and 4:3 resolutions are 768v 600v 480v 384v 300v 240v 120v etc
To change to 1080p at 1 bpp just type 1080p
For 8 bpp at 360p type 8 bpp 360p
What's the paste screen made of? It looks like fiberglass. Is it an epoxy or polyurethane? The picture fooled me at first. I thought the paste was on the screen then I realized it was actually holes. I guess whatever was behind it was creating the optical illusion. Thanks for sharing.
The screen is stainless steel from JLCPCB. There is a reflection in the pic that is confusing.
Previously I have used Mylar from oshstencils.com
The slots for the P2 are so fine it makes visual alignment difficult. I had hoped that I could use my frame concept to auto align but I think this is not going to be possible. Production houses have much better gear where alignment is pinned and is precise every time.
Oh, and I have to buy new solder paste. My jar has finally gone off - a little dry. Not bad for a use by of 2014!
I keep it in the original quite sealed jar placed in a ziplock bag with as much air removed as possible and tight with an elastic bag and then in the fridge so about 5C. I decant a tiny amount into a tiny sealed miniature jam jar keep the same way and discard when it dries out. This way I’m not opening the main jar very often.
I’ll try rejuvenation first - will google how to as I’ve seen it done before.
My 3d printer died while tweeking the frame and hinge to fit the screen size precisely
The hotend keeps clogging. After many attempts looks like i need a new tip - my son has spares so i need to get one from him.
Sure would be nice if someone invented an open source print head to precisely extrude solder paste.
My 3d printer died while tweeking the frame and hinge to fit the screen size precisely
The hotend keeps clogging. After many attempts looks like i need a new tip - my son has spares so i need to get one from him.
Sure would be nice if someone invented an open source print head to precisely extrude solder paste.
Update: found someone doing it
I'm more interested in part placement
You need steady hands and lots of time to hand place. Screening paste is the easy part, even if it's difficult to align.
Interesting how he is filling in the thru holes tho.
Well, if you do want to talk to VGA and interactively change the resolutions etc you can reconfigure the VGA config at memory location $20 for the combined hsyn.red.green.blue and $24 for the vsync like this:
TAQOZ# 27 $24 ! &31.30.29.28 $20 ! --- ok
Then BACKUP BIX as a shortcut to backup to the BIX file then reboot and VGA will default to 640x480x8. Type VGA and console output will appear on the VGA monitor as 106x48 text.
Some preset HD resolutions are 144p 180p 360p 720p 1080p and 4:3 resolutions are 768v 600v 480v 384v 300v 240v 120v etc
To change to 1080p at 1 bpp just type 1080p
For 8 bpp at 360p type 8 bpp 360p
Try it, it's a lot of fun.
I will give this a try tonight after work. I don’t have Flash installed.
So if I boot into TAQOZ and type the sequence above, I presume I will see some text (perhaps just the OK message) on my vga screen? This is all I’m after, just to prove the VGA connector is working.
While I’m asking, to just test the flash exists (ie read the flash I’d codes), what is the TAQOZ one liner? What are simple write and read back one liners too please?
This will verify my board is working. Only thing then remaining then is to load up the P2 with code to stress out the power consumption and check the regulators, and P2 heat dissipation.
I don’t have equipment to test the performance of the ADC although I expect it to be quite good. Will be interesting to see what removing some of the bypass caps will do.
The TAQOZ ROM doesn't have any VGA support built-in but you can access SD and Flash.
.SF to Print SPI FLash
.SD to Print SD card
lsio to list I/O pins
WORDS to list the dictionary words
Comments
The hotend keeps clogging. After many attempts looks like i need a new tip - my son has spares so i need to get one from him.
I've recently starting making some production parts where we do a few steps (sanding, abrading, etc) after the print. The final parts come up really well, its very hard to tell they were 3d printed
Putting a schampfer on the edges really makes boxes look so much better. I don't do any post-processing except to trim any external "lumps" or "string". I've got a cheap tool for this.
All now working fine and i printed my stencil frame an hinge (about 5 1/2 hours) and everything fits
I will heat my PLA+ to remove the moisture next week too.
Here’s a pic of the frame and hinge. Note the provision for screws to hold the stencil in place, but not yet fitted. And a pic of my Creality Ender 3 - under US$200 shipped to Oz.
And with parts ready for oven
pnut correctly finds and identifies the P2
Into the ROM Monitor and TAQOZ. Wow this is so useful to just test for life!
Load _BOOT_P2.BIX onto the root directory of a FAT32 card. TAQOZ will automatically load and report to a serial console. As of June 21, 2020 this defaults to a safe 115200 8N1. Current version is 2.6 which has the basic set of modules loaded as others can be added very easily. CARD: SANDISK SD SC64G REV$80 #35190404 DATE:2018/10 KERNEL Parallax P2 *TAQOZ RELOADED sIDE* V2.6 'CHIP' Prop_Ver G 200MHz 200621-1000 MODULES: 1508 *TEXT* VGA BMP TEXT 190800-0000 1260 *BMV* BMV VIDEO PLAYER 190800-0000 772 *WAVE* WAVE AUDIO FILE PLAYER 190800-0000 430 *BMP* BMP FILE VIEWER 190800-0000 1944 *TIM* TAQOZ INTERACTIVE MEDIA - AUDIO, TEXT, IMAGE & VIDEO DRIVERS 200403-1200 4866 *TIA* TAQOZ INTERACTIVE ASSEMBLER for the PARALLAX P2 - 200327-2300 2528 *DISK* SD DISK REPORTING & FORMATTING TOOLS 190800-0000 4756 *TAFFS* TAQOZ FAT32 FILE SYSTEM for SD CARD plus VIRTUAL MEMORY 200621-1000 1400 *SPIRAM* LY68L6400 8MB SPI RAM ACCESS 191020-0000 1774 *DECOMPILER* A decompiler for TAQOZ 190825-0000 1312 *RTC* RV-3028 RTC DATE and TIME 190800-0000 814 *SMARTPINS* SMARTPIN FUNCTIONS and drive modes 190800-0000 400 *P2CLOCK* P2 CLOCK CONTROL 190800-0000 2184 *ANSI* ANSI TERMINAL SUPPORT 200410-0000 396 *EXTEND* Primary kernel extensions 200621-1000 5754 *SPIFLASH* MEMORY MAP CODE: 09DC4 40,388 bytes WORDS: 1C14E 15,905 bytes DATA: 01F40 1,138 bytes ROOM: 74,634 bytes HARDWARE PCB P2 (P2D2) CLOCK IN 20.000000MHZ DEVICES SD CARD 63 GB SANDISK SD SC64G REV$80 #35190404 DATE:2018/10 SPI FLASH 16MB WINBOND $EF40_1800 #4837448895114529879 USB Silicon LaBS, EFM8UB3 P2D2v4 USB Bridge UB3_2.5.7A, 0005 I2C DEVICES $36 P2D2 UB USB+SUPPORT UUID:039BAD5834DEE811A8D742B1A51F80DA $A4 RV-3028 RTC $C4 Si5351A CLOCK GEN 2020/06/21 SUN 12:04:45 28.42'C Vdd=1.832V ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- TAQOZ#Over the w/e I’ll mod Chip’s VGA driver to use these pins and test it out.
I haven’t tried downloading any code yet. I’m done for the night.
I have LCD code that’s simple to test a group of 8 pins as all LCD pins including 3V3 and GND go to a prop pin. By poking the pins into the header holes and applying slight pressure I can test without soldering headers.
Missed visiting the UK in August
Some preset HD resolutions are 144p 180p 360p 720p 1080p and 4:3 resolutions are 768v 600v 480v 384v 300v 240v 120v etc
To change to 1080p at 1 bpp just type 1080p
For 8 bpp at 360p type 8 bpp 360p
Try it, it's a lot of fun.
I'm a ham too!🤣🤣🤣
Previously I have used Mylar from oshstencils.com
The slots for the P2 are so fine it makes visual alignment difficult. I had hoped that I could use my frame concept to auto align but I think this is not going to be possible. Production houses have much better gear where alignment is pinned and is precise every time.
Oh, and I have to buy new solder paste. My jar has finally gone off - a little dry. Not bad for a use by of 2014!
I keep it in the original quite sealed jar placed in a ziplock bag with as much air removed as possible and tight with an elastic bag and then in the fridge so about 5C. I decant a tiny amount into a tiny sealed miniature jam jar keep the same way and discard when it dries out. This way I’m not opening the main jar very often.
I’ll try rejuvenation first - will google how to as I’ve seen it done before.
Sure would be nice if someone invented an open source print head to precisely extrude solder paste.
Update: found someone doing it
You need steady hands and lots of time to hand place. Screening paste is the easy part, even if it's difficult to align.
Interesting how he is filling in the thru holes tho.
Downloads code from pnut - tick
Boots from microSD (my LCD clock) - tick
Here is my LCD running a clock. The USB only provides power. The P2 boots code from the microSD card - there is no Flash chip either.
So if I boot into TAQOZ and type the sequence above, I presume I will see some text (perhaps just the OK message) on my vga screen? This is all I’m after, just to prove the VGA connector is working.
While I’m asking, to just test the flash exists (ie read the flash I’d codes), what is the TAQOZ one liner? What are simple write and read back one liners too please?
This will verify my board is working. Only thing then remaining then is to load up the P2 with code to stress out the power consumption and check the regulators, and P2 heat dissipation.
I don’t have equipment to test the performance of the ADC although I expect it to be quite good. Will be interesting to see what removing some of the bypass caps will do.
.SF to Print SPI FLash
.SD to Print SD card
lsio to list I/O pins
WORDS to list the dictionary words