Your design seems to be so versatile that, even without the inside mounted fan, it could be left at the table top, standing by one of its sides (sure, the logos are not meant to be upside down viewed).
The plan is to put these on my mom's etsy shop. That'll take care of payment processing, shipping, taxes and selection of enclosure type and color. Should have it set up by Saturday.
The plan is to put these on my mom's etsy shop. That'll take care of payment processing, shipping, taxes and selection of enclosure type and color. Should have it set up by Saturday.
The plan is to put these on my mom's etsy shop. That'll take care of payment processing, shipping, taxes and selection of enclosure type and color. Should have it set up by Saturday.
The enclosures are now available to be ordered. I've added a cutout and a slot for ease of extracting the SD card. I also added a threaded hole and small screw for the reset button.
Very nice - I particularly like the fan cutout pattern which looks like a propeller as well. Was thinking of doing something similar for my board to save drilling a huge hole for the fan. I think the PCB house can mill/route out some similar shapes for hopefully no additional cost but for some reason I think they stated drilling large holes are extra - weird as they should be able to route it out anyway.
The enclosures are now available to be ordered. I've added a cutout and a slot for ease of extracting the SD card. I also added a threaded hole and small screw for the reset button...
Hi W9GFO
The more I look at it, the more I like it.
Now, you'd attracted my eyes to the Reset button and the newly added threaded hole & little screw, then, something did called my attention when I was following the contour of the curved cut you'd used to set free the lever vertical movement, enabling it to be pressed, giving P2 a good "reset".
Well, one of the lessons my father teached me, when I was 7 y.o. (now, I'm reaching my 63s), was how to avoid little wearing cracks, that used to plague the rubber carpets of our family's 1948 Chevrolet Fleetmaster, to progress freely, till the pieces were completelly torn appart and damaged, thus needing a full replacement (and sure, being charged for).
The trick was about using a hollow and sharped border metal tool, to carve two small oriffices, one at each extremity of the cracks, allowing the rubber to be stretched and torsioned, without any signs of further crack propagation.
My father died in 1995, the Fleetmaster is supposed to be waiting thirty more years, at my uncle's home garage, till it can be sold as a piece of relicary and rusty metal art, to some old car museum, or to be used by my uncle's, as a coffin, wichever happens to take place first.
The last set of brand original carpets, that my father did purchased, by the 60's, is still there, covering the Chevrolet's many times painted metal floor.
Perhaps, so there are also many pairs of little holes , playing their ~70 year-long roles.
The same trick works with countless materials, either soft or hard, and acrylic is no exception.
Now, you'd attracted my eyes to the Reset button and the newly added threaded hole & little screw, then, something did called my attention when I was following the contour of the curved cut you'd used to set free the lever vertical movement, enabling it to be pressed, giving P2 a good "reset".
Well, one of the lessons my father teached me, when I was 7 y.o. (now, I'm reaching my 63s), was how to avoid little wearing cracks, ...
Sounds like you are describing stop-drilling - although on a larger scale using a hole punch on the carpets.
I originally drew up the design with some small holes at the ends of the "cracks" but decided that I didn't like them. They aren't actually cracks of course and there is a small radius at the ends - it is not a single path but two paths very close together joined by semicircles to create more of a gap.
I added the screw not so much to require less bend in order to reach the reset button, but to make pressing the reset easier. The width of that part is only 10mm and it required pressing with the tip of the finger or fingernail in order to get it to bend the right amount. Adding the screw solves that by having a nub that sticks up and it has the added bonus that it can be adjusted to require minimal deflection of the acrylic.
Thanks W9GFO by having explained the routing process.
The viewing angle of the last set of images was not that favorable, and my eyes are sure unfavorable, so seeing the gaps are not that easy, at least to me.
Anyway, the gap is really terminated by two semicircular curves, wich is very good, for at least... the next seven decades.
Long life to your acrylic enclosures! Long life to P2 and Parallax! Long life to us all!!!
Unfortunately it is too late to change the order because it has already been shipped, but you can send it back and we'll cover the shipping on the next one.
Comments
John Abshier
Like this?
We can leave the car battery out of the package, too.
Ken Gracey
The reflections at top left (it's a window?); they're adding a bit of depth and ambience to the perspective view.
Looks like a trophy!
I agree it looks like a trophy! Maybe I can get Chip to sign it at the P2 Expo next spring
Actually its a grid light, CAD software sure has come a long way since I first started using it.
Parallax teamwork did an excellent job! Congratulations!
But, even a Louboutin, lacking some fancy enclosure, is only a pair of shoes.
With an enclosure like that, it's kind of a statement:
"This is how we treat our engineering samples.
Now, just immagine how much we care the final products we bring to you!"
Henrique
Amazing!
I've totaly forgot about ray tracing and its uses. The image just surpassed the expectations.
When I saw it, I was listenning to Focus, Hocus Pocus (live, 1973)... matched the whole feeling about it.
Awesome, Thanks! : ]
Thanks Rich, and thanks for doing this.
I enjoy this sort of thing. Making a few bucks is nice too.
P2EVAL Board Enclosure
P2EVAL Board Enclosure w/Fan - Overclocker's version
If the links don't work you can find them by going to the HarmanArt shop on etsy.com and looking under the "Enclosures" category.
Hi W9GFO
The more I look at it, the more I like it.
Now, you'd attracted my eyes to the Reset button and the newly added threaded hole & little screw, then, something did called my attention when I was following the contour of the curved cut you'd used to set free the lever vertical movement, enabling it to be pressed, giving P2 a good "reset".
Well, one of the lessons my father teached me, when I was 7 y.o. (now, I'm reaching my 63s), was how to avoid little wearing cracks, that used to plague the rubber carpets of our family's 1948 Chevrolet Fleetmaster, to progress freely, till the pieces were completelly torn appart and damaged, thus needing a full replacement (and sure, being charged for).
The trick was about using a hollow and sharped border metal tool, to carve two small oriffices, one at each extremity of the cracks, allowing the rubber to be stretched and torsioned, without any signs of further crack propagation.
My father died in 1995, the Fleetmaster is supposed to be waiting thirty more years, at my uncle's home garage, till it can be sold as a piece of relicary and rusty metal art, to some old car museum, or to be used by my uncle's, as a coffin, wichever happens to take place first.
The last set of brand original carpets, that my father did purchased, by the 60's, is still there, covering the Chevrolet's many times painted metal floor.
Perhaps, so there are also many pairs of little holes , playing their ~70 year-long roles.
The same trick works with countless materials, either soft or hard, and acrylic is no exception.
Sorry for those many reminiscenses of my own...
Sounds like you are describing stop-drilling - although on a larger scale using a hole punch on the carpets.
I originally drew up the design with some small holes at the ends of the "cracks" but decided that I didn't like them. They aren't actually cracks of course and there is a small radius at the ends - it is not a single path but two paths very close together joined by semicircles to create more of a gap.
I added the screw not so much to require less bend in order to reach the reset button, but to make pressing the reset easier. The width of that part is only 10mm and it required pressing with the tip of the finger or fingernail in order to get it to bend the right amount. Adding the screw solves that by having a nub that sticks up and it has the added bonus that it can be adjusted to require minimal deflection of the acrylic.
The viewing angle of the last set of images was not that favorable, and my eyes are sure unfavorable, so seeing the gaps are not that easy, at least to me.
Anyway, the gap is really terminated by two semicircular curves, wich is very good, for at least... the next seven decades.
Long life to your acrylic enclosures! Long life to P2 and Parallax! Long life to us all!!!
P2 EVAL Board Enclosure - Red Alder
Let me check...
Unfortunately it is too late to change the order because it has already been shipped, but you can send it back and we'll cover the shipping on the next one.