what is the configuration of your ultrasonic sensors to pins? I am looking at your block-prop code and I'm just wondering which sensor is connected to the pins 14, 15, 16, 17.
Hey Whit,
Are the drawing files you used to cut this out available someplace? I would like to try making a set of the two decks (top and base) with my glowforge laser cutter.
@geistmate - Per the BlocklyProp code description - “mArlo - mArlo Roaming with Ping))) Obstacle Detection (Front - pin 14, Left - 45 degrees - pin 16, Right - 45 degrees - pin 17, and Rear - pin 15) and Propeller Activity Board WX (with IR detector on pin 10 - not used), and piezo speaker on pin 4.”
@"Roy Eltham" - have them at home on my computer - will send them tomorrow!
Hey Whit,
Are the drawing files you used to cut this out available someplace? I would like to try making a set of the two decks (top and base) with my glowforge laser cutter.
Thanks Whit!
I'm working on a variant that will work with my laser cutter (max 11x19ish cut area).
I'm, also, attempting to make a new power distribution switch/cover plate that says mArlo cut out like the normal Arlo one, had to trace an image of it since the cut file isn't available.
Thanks Whit!
I'm working on a variant that will work with my laser cutter (max 11x19ish cut area).
I'm, also, attempting to make a new power distribution switch/cover plate that says mArlo cut out like the normal Arlo one, had to trace an image of it since the cut file isn't available.
Great, Roy! My m-Marlo was a tad under 12" in diameter due to the size of the cutting boards I used.
Can't wait to see how your m-Arlo switch/cover plate comes out!
Whit,
Here's an update on my version of mArlo! This is cut out of 1/4in mdf, just to test fit and get an idea of size. I'll be using some other material(s) for the final version.
Note, I added another "level" because I wanted to use my casters without modification. You substituted some longer posts in there? Did you make those yourself?
My new level still needs some work and cleanup, it's just a rough shape right now to get things together.
Once I get everything dialed in, I'll share the SVGs so you or others can see how it goes together or make one.
Here's my nearly final version, still in MDF. I put my decks closer together because the battery I am using (a 50000mAh Lithium based) isn't as bulky as the SLAs. You can see it placed in there for size.
I really like how this is turning out, thanks Whit for sharing your idea and files for me to use to build on.
On the two bases I built recently, I used some mini dual-wheel casters (front & rear) with plastic wheels and they interfered mightily with steering. They would always kick the bot off to one side after a major maneuver, even with hardly any load on them. Maddening. I ended up replacing them both with fixed plastic wheels that didn't caster, much like Boebot's ball wheel. Worked much better, even though they skid in a spin. Pic & video attached.
erco,
Those casters I am using are the ones used on the real Arlo (and earlier variants like Eddie, and Ken's wood version). They seem to work pretty well, partly because of nice bearings, but also because the whole wheel assembly is behind the pivot point. Also each wheel spin independently. So, when you do a turn they just pivot easily instead of causing a kick off to one side. I've had a hard time finding a small variant of them. I'm thinking about trying to fabricate my own.
Here's a closeup of the little plastic casters I tried and the white wheel (removed a Home Depot caster) I ultimately used. Very important to have rounded edges on a wheel when you drag it sideways on carpet.
Yeah those double wheel plastic things are awful. The wheels don't spin independently (or if they do it's not very well), Also the pivot bearings are Smile :P
The ones are on the Arlo are super nice ones fabricated by Parallax on their milling machine, and use nice sealed bearings on the pivot.
Jill from letsrobot is working with another group that does battlebots to make just that. They have done some tests with it destructing paper cups and cardboard boxes.
The goal is to fight it against an AI battlebot, and possible another letrobot controlled battlebot.
Hi Whit,
Awesome work here from you and from Roy!!! Congratulations!!!!
I'm thinking to turn my second wheel kit to a "mArlo"!
I think "mArlo" is the ideal design for a representation robot using the LetsrobotTV site.
I finally followed again the Artist's design, because I had already some pieces from that chassis and this time I put on it the Propeller Activity Board WX, the same board that uses the original Arlo.
Trying to program it with the Blockly Prop I found difficulties because the original Arlo uses the DHB-10 motor controller instead of the HB-25 motors controllers that I use.
However, that synthesis could work fine with Blockly Prop using the Activity Bot calibration command. Now I'm trying to find ways to program it more efficiency with Blockly prop!
I haven't seen any Artist chalk drawings recently. More specifically, indoor chalk drawings on the carpeting. Just curious if your wife put her foot down (in dusty chalk) and stopped your experiments!!!???
I haven't seen any Artist chalk drawings recently. More specifically, indoor chalk drawings on the carpeting. Just curious if your wife put her foot down (in dusty chalk) and stopped your experiments!!!???
Hi erco, Merry Christmas!!!
Yes indeed ... She always complains about the mess in my office and my Lab, but always I find a way to calm her... The latest disagreement was about the telepresence robot "It is not necessary to show the mess in all over the world " she said.....
Anyway... the reason I stopped the drawing with Artist is that I want to make the drawings with BlocklyProp. The only way to do that right is to follow the "Arlo" configuration.
From my recent experiments with the second "Artist" (the telepresent robot), I think that I must replace the two HB25 motor controllers with the DHB-10 Control Board
Without the DHB-10 ( and the HB-25 instead ) the only I can do is to is to manipulate the "Artist" as a "Servo differential drive robot" with the "Robot Drive speed" the only acceptable command .....
So the DHB-10 Control Board is one-way road for me (it will be my next purchase) in order to have all the advantages of Blockly programming and be able to continue the amazing drawings using chalk ...
At the present time, I can't use both robots. One of the encoders of this newe root damaged so I borrowed one encoder from the Artist.
I've ordered a new pair from Parallax but till they arrived the Artist will be out of operation...
Anyway, I'm very happy with Arlo configuration. I think that will be very useful for demonstrations using Blockly in my class...
So is there any tutorial where I will be able to find more Blockly code for Arlo with Propeller Activity Board?
Comments
what is the configuration of your ultrasonic sensors to pins? I am looking at your block-prop code and I'm just wondering which sensor is connected to the pins 14, 15, 16, 17.
Best regards,
Matthew
Are the drawing files you used to cut this out available someplace? I would like to try making a set of the two decks (top and base) with my glowforge laser cutter.
Thanks!
@"Roy Eltham" - have them at home on my computer - will send them tomorrow!
See attached.
I'm working on a variant that will work with my laser cutter (max 11x19ish cut area).
I'm, also, attempting to make a new power distribution switch/cover plate that says mArlo cut out like the normal Arlo one, had to trace an image of it since the cut file isn't available.
Great, Roy! My m-Marlo was a tad under 12" in diameter due to the size of the cutting boards I used.
Can't wait to see how your m-Arlo switch/cover plate comes out!
I used a scrap piece of shiny black 1/8" acrylic for this.
Here's an update on my version of mArlo! This is cut out of 1/4in mdf, just to test fit and get an idea of size. I'll be using some other material(s) for the final version.
Note, I added another "level" because I wanted to use my casters without modification. You substituted some longer posts in there? Did you make those yourself?
My new level still needs some work and cleanup, it's just a rough shape right now to get things together.
Once I get everything dialed in, I'll share the SVGs so you or others can see how it goes together or make one.
I really like how this is turning out, thanks Whit for sharing your idea and files for me to use to build on.
Perhaps this weekend if I can get the wiring sorted.
Those casters I am using are the ones used on the real Arlo (and earlier variants like Eddie, and Ken's wood version). They seem to work pretty well, partly because of nice bearings, but also because the whole wheel assembly is behind the pivot point. Also each wheel spin independently. So, when you do a turn they just pivot easily instead of causing a kick off to one side. I've had a hard time finding a small variant of them. I'm thinking about trying to fabricate my own.
The ones are on the Arlo are super nice ones fabricated by Parallax on their milling machine, and use nice sealed bearings on the pivot.
Who will be the first to make a destructive Battlebot and let others drive it on letsrobot.tv?
Got flamethrower? Inquire here!
The goal is to fight it against an AI battlebot, and possible another letrobot controlled battlebot.
Awesome work here from you and from Roy!!! Congratulations!!!!
I'm thinking to turn my second wheel kit to a "mArlo"!
I think "mArlo" is the ideal design for a representation robot using the LetsrobotTV site.
Trying to program it with the Blockly Prop I found difficulties because the original Arlo uses the DHB-10 motor controller instead of the HB-25 motors controllers that I use.
However, that synthesis could work fine with Blockly Prop using the Activity Bot calibration command. Now I'm trying to find ways to program it more efficiency with Blockly prop!
I haven't seen any Artist chalk drawings recently. More specifically, indoor chalk drawings on the carpeting. Just curious if your wife put her foot down (in dusty chalk) and stopped your experiments!!!???
Hi erco, Merry Christmas!!!
Yes indeed ... She always complains about the mess in my office and my Lab, but always I find a way to calm her... The latest disagreement was about the telepresence robot "It is not necessary to show the mess in all over the world " she said.....
Anyway... the reason I stopped the drawing with Artist is that I want to make the drawings with BlocklyProp. The only way to do that right is to follow the "Arlo" configuration.
From my recent experiments with the second "Artist" (the telepresent robot), I think that I must replace the two HB25 motor controllers with the DHB-10 Control Board
Without the DHB-10 ( and the HB-25 instead ) the only I can do is to is to manipulate the "Artist" as a "Servo differential drive robot" with the "Robot Drive speed" the only acceptable command .....
So the DHB-10 Control Board is one-way road for me (it will be my next purchase) in order to have all the advantages of Blockly programming and be able to continue the amazing drawings using chalk ...
I also added and a 4rth ping))) sensor in the backside of the robot.
I uploaded the Whit's BlocklyProp code (The link is given in the 1rst post of this thread) and here is the result in action....
Whit, Thank you for the code....
Glad to see "the Artist" back in action.
At the present time, I can't use both robots. One of the encoders of this newe root damaged so I borrowed one encoder from the Artist.
I've ordered a new pair from Parallax but till they arrived the Artist will be out of operation...
Anyway, I'm very happy with Arlo configuration. I think that will be very useful for demonstrations using Blockly in my class...
So is there any tutorial where I will be able to find more Blockly code for Arlo with Propeller Activity Board?