Impossible............... Fights with me every time "The uploaded file was too big(max 2M)
I wish I could show you all a picture of what I have put together so far. Cannot I tried opening it with "paint" it says "too big"
"I use the Paint program that comes with Windows for simple block diagrams.
modified code is attached. I will add a block diagram later."[/quote]
Where do I enter the "IN8,IN15"???
Where do the 6 wires on the other side of the219 go?
PIN8 =SDA ok?
PIN15=SCL ok?
Next to "R1OO" "Vin -"= ground from 12 volt battery bank
"Vin+"=positive from 12volt battery bank
The four "M" size "positive center" female sockets connectors are at rear of mouser box.
The battery banks will have male "M" plugs soldered at the ends
Do I need two more INPUT pins ????I plan to use two current sensors with this BS2 one for each bank. Should I use pins IN7=SDA IN8 =SCL {one c219 current sensor} and {IN9 =SDA IN10=SCL the second current sensor}????
in the diagram
"remote current current sensor"??? Is this the second 219 sensor? are they connected? I put solder mounds on "A0 - A1" on both 219 sensors because I read that if using two sensors they need to be jumped with solder mounds.
"to battery negative" should I connect it to the "-" battery bank side of current sensor? Or are you saying I should connect it to the Mouser box ground circuit that powers the BS2?
Ok I left my brain in my email I must go get my most recent code cause my other PC just died and had a Microsoft funeral did not tell me until the last minute.......... the screen dressed in black...... unresponsive
Impossible............... Fights with me every time "The uploaded file was too big(max 2M)
I wish I could show you all a picture of what I have put together so far. Cannot I tried opening it with "paint" it says "too big"
Are we talking about a reasonably modern version of Microsoft Windows paint? I do that fairly often to can be reduced in size by opening them with Paint and saving them as a .jpg or .gif. If that does not work you can display them using photo viewer or similar program, take a screen shot, and then paste the screen shot into paint, crop it, and save it.
Not a problem. Easily changed to use another two pins. You can do it, or post a list of "in use" pins and the pins you would like to use and I can do it.
Ok recovering from the other PC crash.......... This is my latest code with the 219's wired together "remote current sensor"
now the code without 219 code
' {$STAMP BS2}
' {$PBASIC 2.5}
'Autonomous generator control module '
'Detects voltage levels activates programmed relays to start electric start generator'
"I use the Paint program that comes with Windows for simple block diagrams.
modified code is attached. I will add a block diagram later."
Where do I enter the "IN8,IN15"???
Where do the 6 wires on the other side of the219 go?
PIN8 =SDA ok?
PIN15=SCL ok?[/quote]
Those pins are fine. I will make the changes and download them later.
Next to "R1OO" "Vin -"= ground from 12 volt battery bank
No no no. That will blow things up. I will post an explanation and diagram of how the current monitoring works later.
"Vin+"=positive from 12volt battery bank
Correct
The four "M" size "positive center" female sockets connectors are at rear of mouser box.
The battery banks will have male "M" plugs soldered at the ends
What is the mouser box? What if anything are we doing with the "M" plugs?
in the diagram
"remote current current sensor"??? Is this the second 219 sensor? are they connected? I put solder mounds on "A0 - A1" on both 219 sensors because I read that if using two sensors they need to be jumped with solder mounds.
No, that is not for the second sensor. It is for a sensing resistor that can handle higher currents than the one on the INA219 board. You do need separate addresses if you have more than one INA219 sensor connected to the same SDA and SCL lines. A lower resistance higher power series resistor is needed if you wanted to monitor the total current in and out of the battery pack. The INA219 can handle up to 3.2Amps, your batteries could put out more than 10 times that.
"to battery negative" should I connect it to the "-" battery bank side of current sensor? Or are you saying I should connect it to the Mouser box ground circuit that powers the BS2?
If the Mouser box powers the BS2 it probably has a connection to the battery - so connect it there. Need some more info on the Mouser box.
Ok lets do this here is where the Radio shack AC/DC wall power 12 volts 2.5ams enters the box.......
From left of picture to right black M plug{battery bank input}.......does NOT power BS2 /red mono audio plug {this will be Battery + and Generator board wires from red illuminated "Battery" switch on front of Champion Generator, Glass Fuse holder .75 amps automotive fuse all voltage from wall adapter power goes through this "FUSE" first then to switch on front of box,The white "n" center positive plug and female jack IS the 12 volt Radio Shack wall mounted ac/dc adapter that supplies power to everything in the box, next to that moving right in picture black ""M" center positive plug this will be the two wires from the driver-side batteries.
The four wires from the battery banks DO NOT power anything in this box except the little Philips head blue header "R100" side +/- of the current sensors. The wires on the other side of female "M " size are red + and black-
This is the wireless remote activated by the EAZY relay.
I would like to show you more of the remote but it fights with me every time. It is VERY difficult to get a photo edited and uploaded.
Red illuminated push button switch on front of Mouser box. "The 9,000 is ready to handle all my generator buttons"
OK so not really cause at the time of this picture it just had fake condition [code} and Arduino voltage sensors. I still need to figure out the code to work with the 219's I just installed. This is the BS2 wrapper. A mouser box for $10 really makes the BS2 Homework Board dressed up in a tux for the electronics ball.
I have wired 2 SDA PINS and 2 SCL PINS. I hope that is classified as a "second address".
Lets say I plug something in to the driver-side DC/AC power inverter and run those batteries down.
Lets say one side battery bank is = to a 1 and a digital 1 = 12.4volts or higher. The other side reads a 0 and that = 12.3 volts. I still need the generator to turn on even tho one bank is still above the threshold 70% value.
I put a large 12 volt .3 amp computer fan under the whole box. The bottom of this fan will connect to the top of the plexiglass battery bank enclosure.
The overall engineering design of this fan is to pull in air from the small holes{black plastic frames} around the digital displays at the top of the box. The air will be pulled in around the digital displays /relay boards and then BS2 out down over the top of the batteries and out a tube that ventilates the battery bay out a vent on the side of the RV.
The fan comes on when the switch on the front of the box is pushed to turn on power to the Champion Generator fob remote,BS2 stamp and relays.
The BS2 sees input from 219's and outputs PINs 1 and 0 to activate micro pc relays that connect the digital programmable relay timers to ground circuit.
Fake condition does activate timers by connecting them to ground after green LED blinks 9 times. When they are activated the green/red LED turns on and off indicating it sees the phony threshold value.
Kwinn, did I do this right to have two sensors????
Well, soldering is ok but it looks like you changed both boards to the same address, so you are back to square -1. Clean the solder off one of them so it is back to address $80, and clean the solder off A1 on the other one. I will post the diagram and operation of the current sensing next. Hope it helps. I am terrible at putting my thoughts into words.
[quote="kwinn;The INA219 can handle up to 3.2Amps, your batteries could put out more than 10 times that."
I have to add resistors? Where? What values?
Depends on the maximum current your batteries and generator produce, and if you even want to measure it. Take a look at the last PDF I posted. The diagrams probably explain it better than the words do.
Comments
I wish I could show you all a picture of what I have put together so far. Cannot I tried opening it with "paint" it says "too big"
"I use the Paint program that comes with Windows for simple block diagrams.
modified code is attached. I will add a block diagram later."[/quote]
Where do I enter the "IN8,IN15"???
Where do the 6 wires on the other side of the219 go?
PIN8 =SDA ok?
PIN15=SCL ok?
Next to "R1OO" "Vin -"= ground from 12 volt battery bank
"Vin+"=positive from 12volt battery bank
The four "M" size "positive center" female sockets connectors are at rear of mouser box.
The battery banks will have male "M" plugs soldered at the ends
"remote current current sensor"??? Is this the second 219 sensor? are they connected? I put solder mounds on "A0 - A1" on both 219 sensors because I read that if using two sensors they need to be jumped with solder mounds.
"to battery negative" should I connect it to the "-" battery bank side of current sensor? Or are you saying I should connect it to the Mouser box ground circuit that powers the BS2?
Are we talking about a reasonably modern version of Microsoft Windows paint? I do that fairly often to can be reduced in size by opening them with Paint and saving them as a .jpg or .gif. If that does not work you can display them using photo viewer or similar program, take a screen shot, and then paste the screen shot into paint, crop it, and save it.
Not a problem. Easily changed to use another two pins. You can do it, or post a list of "in use" pins and the pins you would like to use and I can do it.
now the code without 219 code
' {$STAMP BS2}
' {$PBASIC 2.5}
'Autonomous generator control module '
'Detects voltage levels activates programmed relays to start electric start generator'
counter VAR Byte
FOR counter = 1 TO 9
DEBUG ? counter
HIGH 14
PAUSE 350
LOW 14
PAUSE 350
NEXT
DEBUG ? IN8
DEBUG ? IN10
IF (IN10 =1) THEN
HIGH 1
HIGH 0
HIGH 4 'Red
LOW 3
PAUSE 250
LOW 4 'Green
HIGH 3
PAUSE 250
HIGH 4 'RED
LOW 3
PAUSE 250
LOW 4 'GREEN
HIGH 3
PAUSE 250
HIGH 4 'Red
LOW 3
PAUSE 250
LOW 4 'Green
HIGH 3
PAUSE 250
HIGH 4 'RED
LOW 3
PAUSE 250
LOW 4 'GREEN
HIGH 3
PAUSE 250
LOW 4 ' Off
LOW 3
PAUSE 250
ELSEIF (IN8=1)THEN
HIGH 1
HIGH 0
HIGH 4 'Red
LOW 3
PAUSE 250
LOW 4 'Green
HIGH 3
PAUSE 250
HIGH 4 'RED
LOW 3
PAUSE 250
LOW 4 'GREEN
HIGH 3
PAUSE 250
HIGH 4 'Red
LOW 3
PAUSE 250
LOW 4 'Green
HIGH 3
PAUSE 250
HIGH 4 'RED
LOW 3
PAUSE 250
LOW 4 'GREEN
HIGH 3
PAUSE 250
LOW 4 ' Off
LOW 3
PAUSE 250
ENDIF
DO
LOOP
Where do I enter the "IN8,IN15"???
Where do the 6 wires on the other side of the219 go?
PIN8 =SDA ok?
PIN15=SCL ok?[/quote]
Those pins are fine. I will make the changes and download them later.
No no no. That will blow things up. I will post an explanation and diagram of how the current monitoring works later.
Correct
What is the mouser box? What if anything are we doing with the "M" plugs?
Thanks for the led demo Kwinn.
No, that is not for the second sensor. It is for a sensing resistor that can handle higher currents than the one on the INA219 board. You do need separate addresses if you have more than one INA219 sensor connected to the same SDA and SCL lines. A lower resistance higher power series resistor is needed if you wanted to monitor the total current in and out of the battery pack. The INA219 can handle up to 3.2Amps, your batteries could put out more than 10 times that.
If the Mouser box powers the BS2 it probably has a connection to the battery - so connect it there. Need some more info on the Mouser box.
From left of picture to right black M plug{battery bank input}.......does NOT power BS2 /red mono audio plug {this will be Battery + and Generator board wires from red illuminated "Battery" switch on front of Champion Generator, Glass Fuse holder .75 amps automotive fuse all voltage from wall adapter power goes through this "FUSE" first then to switch on front of box,The white "n" center positive plug and female jack IS the 12 volt Radio Shack wall mounted ac/dc adapter that supplies power to everything in the box, next to that moving right in picture black ""M" center positive plug this will be the two wires from the driver-side batteries.
The four wires from the battery banks DO NOT power anything in this box except the little Philips head blue header "R100" side +/- of the current sensors. The wires on the other side of female "M " size are red + and black-
Kwinn, did I do this right to have two sensors????
I would like to show you more of the remote but it fights with me every time. It is VERY difficult to get a photo edited and uploaded.
OK so not really cause at the time of this picture it just had fake condition [code} and Arduino voltage sensors. I still need to figure out the code to work with the 219's I just installed. This is the BS2 wrapper. A mouser box for $10 really makes the BS2 Homework Board dressed up in a tux for the electronics ball.
Lets say I plug something in to the driver-side DC/AC power inverter and run those batteries down.
Lets say one side battery bank is = to a 1 and a digital 1 = 12.4volts or higher. The other side reads a 0 and that = 12.3 volts. I still need the generator to turn on even tho one bank is still above the threshold 70% value.
I put a large 12 volt .3 amp computer fan under the whole box. The bottom of this fan will connect to the top of the plexiglass battery bank enclosure.
The fan comes on when the switch on the front of the box is pushed to turn on power to the Champion Generator fob remote,BS2 stamp and relays.
The BS2 sees input from 219's and outputs PINs 1 and 0 to activate micro pc relays that connect the digital programmable relay timers to ground circuit.
I have to add resistors? Where? What values?
Well, soldering is ok but it looks like you changed both boards to the same address, so you are back to square -1. Clean the solder off one of them so it is back to address $80, and clean the solder off A1 on the other one. I will post the diagram and operation of the current sensing next. Hope it helps. I am terrible at putting my thoughts into words.