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Cycling Champion generator control module useing BS2 detect 12v start\stop gen. batt. chargers - Page 10 — Parallax Forums

Cycling Champion generator control module useing BS2 detect 12v start\stop gen. batt. chargers

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  • Re: Kwinn's schematic showing a "common ground": BE CAREFUL how you connect to this common ground. You DO NOT want MOSFET load current flowing through the logic ground circuit. The correct way to wire them is shown here:

    attachment.php?attachmentid=74873&stc=1&d=1288553621

    IOW, logic ground and load ground are connected to a single point at the MOSFET's source pin.

    -Phil
    Thanks for the needed hardware advice but I dont understand it. The INA219's are an I2C communication . You know more than I about it.Do I build this schematic at the input pins?

  • kwinnkwinn Posts: 8,697
    edited 2017-05-28 02:48
    Kwinn ,even tho I have already achieved the projects goal with other hardware I think it would be best to repair the BS2. I like the idea of looking at live data on a debug screen. I 'm waiting for China sailors to bring me quality relays. All three EAZY VLC duel relay boards were defect. The most recent relays haveing the digital display flash -US- on it during a malfunction . Maybe Japan EAZY company not like Americans?

    The generator can be controlled by the BS2 via 3 or 4 small relays, however that would require connecting them in parallel with the manual switches on the generator unless it can be done via the fob. Parallax sells excellent single and dual relay boards that could do this.
  • I have a relay from Radioshack. It is a SANYOU 5A 250VAC 5A 24VDC SMI-S-212D. We can just start over. Do u think the 24VDC will still energize the coil? I think a Propeller 32912 would b better. There is five females at the back of the Champion generator switch. Can the 32912 built in ADC handle 12volts if wired direct tothe Propeller board?The 32912 has eight cores.What am I going to do with seven other cores?
  • DPDT relay
  • Forget the fob. It already in a working unit. Lets try a BS2 wired direct like you say. Have any luck with the Champion schematic?
  • I have three p.c. board 12v 1amp relays
  • I will see about getting the 27114 and a Propeller board. If what I have wont work
  • kwinnkwinn Posts: 8,697
    I have a relay from Radioshack. It is a SANYOU 5A 250VAC 5A 24VDC SMI-S-212D. We can just start over. Do u think the 24VDC will still energize the coil?
    No, this relay is a poor choice. You have 12VDC available from multiple batteries, 5VDC from the propeller board, and 120VAC from the inverter, so lets not add yet another voltage requirement. Use either 5VDC or 12VDC relays
    I think a Propeller 32912 would be better.
    I agree 100%. Even have some code from an earlier project that would make a good starting point.
    There is five females at the back of the Champion generator switch.
    If this is the 3 position switch ( OFF, ON, START) that is used to manually start the generator that is where the relays controlled by the propeller would connect.
    Can the 32912 built in ADC handle 12volts if wired direct to the Propeller board?
    No. At the very least it would require a voltage divider to reduce the input to one third or less of the battery voltage.
    The 32912 has eight cores.What am I going to do with seven other cores?
    Don't worry, they won't go to waste. One will be used as the main controller, one for serial communication, one for reading the voltages to the ADC, and one for precise timing.

  • kwinnkwinn Posts: 8,697
    I have three p.c. board 12v 1amp relays

    These would be a better choice. Are they SPST, SPDT, DPST, or DPDT relays?
  • kwinnkwinn Posts: 8,697
    Forget the fob. It already in a working unit. Lets try a BS2 wired direct like you say. Have any luck with the Champion schematic?

    Wired direct is good, and the BS2 could work with that, but if you ever want to get a working setup you need to stick with one approach and solve the problems as they are encountered, not hop from one to another.
  • kwinnkwinn Posts: 8,697
    edited 2017-05-29 04:01
    I will see about getting the 27114 and a Propeller board. If what I have wont work

    While I think the propeller board is a better choice for this perhaps you could post a list of the parts you already have before ordering more parts.
  • Ok just ordered 32912 Propeller activity board WX and two duel Relay 27114 's. We can start over with these parts.
  • Have a Radioshack resistor for life pack.This will have the resistors needed to make voltage divider.
  • The powersupply for the Propeller ._.._.._..__._.._Radioshack AC adapter catalogue no. 2731123 ._.._class2._._13.5volts 1A. I also have this cool digital display._._.._. It is a 2006 Parallax 2x16 serial display very similar to recent 27977 product . Has P050001501 stamped on it. 16 pins
  • kwinnkwinn Posts: 8,697
    Ok just ordered 32912 Propeller activity board WX and two duel Relay 27114 's. We can start over with these parts.
    That's fine. I have some Propeller Project boards I can use for writing the code. No on board ADC, Wireless, or sd card slot, but they are not needed for this.
    The powersupply for the Propeller ._.._.._..__._.._Radioshack AC adapter catalogue no. 2731123 ._.._class2._._13.5volts 1A. I also have this cool digital display._._.._. It is a 2006 Parallax 2x16 serial display very similar to recent 27977 product . Has P050001501 stamped on it. 16 pins
    Power supply is good. Hope you have some documentation or code for the serial display.
  • kwinnkwinn Posts: 8,697
    Are there any switches other than the "combination switch" on the generator that have to be flipped or held to start and run it? Any valves to open/close?
  • Yes. The red illuminated 'Battery' switch located on the front utility panel of the Champion generator. There is a shut off valve below the fuel tank. I'm not concerned about the gas valve being open all the time servo not needed. Manufacturer says 'you can leave the battery switch on it won't hurt the generator'.
  • kwinnkwinn Posts: 8,697
    edited 2017-06-02 11:21
    OK, so just the "combination switch" to worry about. According to the schematic it has the following wire connections:
    1       - Black/white
    2 & 5 - Green/Yellow
    3       - Black
    4       - No wire connected
    6       - Yellow
    
    Can you verify this is correct?

    Edit - to add end code.
  • Yes that wireing is exactly what is there behind the front panel.
  • Ok I have recieved the WX and the 4relays. I have assembled the two duel relay boards. The WX has little headers for a daughter wifi board. Wouldn't it be cool if the WX could tell a smart phone that it just started the generator and the voltage values? How about a Movi voice shield 'your batteries are charged'?We could keep people from getting burned on the aluminium door? I could put in a small PIR sensor? "caution door is hot please step away from the vehicle "
  • kwinn wrote: »
    OK, so just the "combination switch" to worry about. According to the schematic it has the following wire connections:
    1       - Black/white
    2 & 5 - Green/Yellow
    3       - Black
    4       - No wire connected
    6       - Yellow
    
    Can you verify this is correct?

    Edit - to add end code.

    Yes these color coded wires is what I have to work with.
  • Kwinn, your my adviser if you would rather have me keep the project simple its up to you. I was just concerned about the safty of small children exiting a vehicle parked next to the aluminum door. I have discovered that the vented panel gets hot.
  • kwinnkwinn Posts: 8,697
    Kwinn, your my adviser if you would rather have me keep the project simple its up to you. I was just concerned about the safety of small children exiting a vehicle parked next to the aluminum door. I have discovered that the vented panel gets hot.

    All of those things are possible to do, and may even be squeezed into a single prop, but I do not have the time or hardware to do it. Let's keep it simple, get the automated generator start function working, and go from there.
  • Ok.Do you want me to throw copper wires into the coach from the back of that switch? Have you decided how those switch wires should connect with the WX? If the WX's three position switch is at the '2' can I still power accessories from the servo headers?
  • kwinnkwinn Posts: 8,697
    You can run the wires to the switch if you want. Only need 4 wires to the switch since pins 2 and 5 are connected and 4 is not connected to anything. If you have some CAT5 or 6 you can use that. Current draw is small and having a spare wire or two is nice if the ones in use break.

    The WX can only power accessories when in the "2" position, and then only if the port's power selector jumper is in. Be careful here. The 3 port selector jumpers select either Vin or +5V for it's pair of ports. If Vin is selected for a 5V accessory bad things will happen, particularly if Vin is a 12V battery that can provide a lot of current.
  • kwinnkwinn Posts: 8,697
    .......Have you decided how those switch wires should connect with the WX? .........

    Those wires will be going to the relays you purchased from Parallax. I will post a wiring diagram when I have the time. Sorry for the slow response. A lot of the projects I quoted on the last three months now want the work started asap. Typical feast or famine workload.
  • kwinn wrote: »
    You can run the wires to the switch if you want. Only need 4 wires to the switch since pins 2 and 5 are connected and 4 is not connected to anything. If you have some CAT5 or 6 you can use that. Current draw is small and having a spare wire or two is nice if the ones in use break.

    The WX can only power accessories when in the "2" position, and then only if the port's power selector jumper is in. Be careful here. The 3 port selector jumpers select either Vin or +5V for it's pair of ports. If Vin is selected for a 5V accessory bad things will happen, particularly if Vin is a 12V battery that can provide a lot of current.
    The Propeller activity board wx's jumper pins are in the factory default positions. The way it came out of the wrapper. 18 pins exposed.I do not understand. Should I change the positions?Default is all 3 r jumping 5v to center pin. The top single Vin pins r exposed.
  • kwinnkwinn Posts: 8,697
    Here is a diagram of how each 9 pin group of servo pins is connected. If the jumpers are in the position shown in the picture the V+ on the servo pins is +5v. If the jumper is in the other position V+ on the servo pins is Vin.
    609 x 496 - 60K
  • kwinn wrote: »
    Here is a diagram of how each 9 pin group of servo pins is connected. If the jumpers are in the position shown in the picture the V+ on the servo pins is +5v. If the jumper is in the other position V+ on the servo pins is Vin.
    The jumpers on my wx are in the same position as the photo.That is where they should be?

  • kwinnkwinn Posts: 8,697
    kwinn wrote: »
    Here is a diagram of how each 9 pin group of servo pins is connected. If the jumpers are in the position shown in the picture the V+ on the servo pins is +5v. If the jumper is in the other position V+ on the servo pins is Vin.
    The jumpers on my wx are in the same position as the photo.That is where they should be?

    Yes, that's where they should be.

    Here is a diagram of the wiring between the batteries/WX/and generator switch. The connections to the two battery packs should be as close to the battery positive terminals as possible so the voltage is accurate under load.
    1878 x 761 - 209K
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