Arlo drifts one way...
Hello,
So I have the Eddie/Arlo robot base with the HB25 and the aluminum drive motors set. First off, Id like to know which sode of the base is really considered the front?
I have the power distribution panel mounted also and its mounted to what I consider the rear of the platform. When I tell the robot to move forward, I've noticed that it tends to drift to the left more. Yet when it goes in reverse, it does seem to be going straighter. I'm using EZrobot as my controller, and have tryed to program different speeds to see if that would help but no luck. Also I not using the built in encoders at this time.
Any thoughts here would be great.
Thanks
So I have the Eddie/Arlo robot base with the HB25 and the aluminum drive motors set. First off, Id like to know which sode of the base is really considered the front?
I have the power distribution panel mounted also and its mounted to what I consider the rear of the platform. When I tell the robot to move forward, I've noticed that it tends to drift to the left more. Yet when it goes in reverse, it does seem to be going straighter. I'm using EZrobot as my controller, and have tryed to program different speeds to see if that would help but no luck. Also I not using the built in encoders at this time.
Any thoughts here would be great.
Thanks
Comments
-Phil
Here's my robot performing a test 1 meter by 2 meter rectangle.
I thought the robot did pretty well considering it was driving on carpet.
I haven't used an EZrobot controller but if the controller can issue serial commands, you could use a Propeller Activity Board to act as a bridge between the EZrobot controller and the motors/encoders.
For example, to drive in a 2 meter by 1 meter rectangle, the EZrobot controller would issue the following commands:
DECIN 1
MM 2000 50
TURN -90 50
MM 1000 50
TURN -90 50
MM 2000 50
TURN -90 50
MM 1000 50
Each line needs to end with a carriage return.
The command "DECIN 1" tells the firmware to expect numbers in decimal format rather than hexadecimal (the default interface uses hexadecimal but it's easier for me to think in decimal).
The command "MM 2000 50" tells the robot to travel 2000mm at a speed of 50% speed. The command "TURN -90 50" tells the robot to turn 90 degrees to the left at 50% speed.
The EZrobot controller may have a way to monitor the encoders directly but I don't know enough about the system to know how one does this (if it's possible).
Here's a link to a thread about the Arlo/Eddie firmware.
There's firmware for both the original Eddie control board and the Propeller Activity Board. While these are the only two Propeller boards supported by the firmware, just about any Propeller board could be used with the Arlo hardware you're using. Do you have a Propeller board? If so I could help convert the firmware for use with whichever board you have.
Since it's "Throwback Tuesday", I'll post my input recording attempt.
Since the PropBOE had a SD card slot, I had lots of room to record the inputs from the remote at a full 50Hz. I was pleasantly surprised how well the technique worked.
My path recording bot was directly inspired by Retrobot's path recording ability.
Thanks for the insight, well appreciated. I might look into getting a DE Sabertooth and Kangeroo Controller to use for motor control and encoding instead.
Also, still curious, which side of the Arlo is really front or back?
-Phil
I don't know enough about those controllers to know how well they work but as I mentioned earlier just about any Propeller board could be used to read the encoders and control the motors using the HB-25 controllers.
Do you live in the US? If so, send me a PM with your address and I'll send you a Propeller board you could use as a controller.
I don't think it really matters but I've always considered the motors long side to point toward the back of the robot.
Here's another photo of my robot.
You can see how the cutouts to allow the motor to stick through the board are behind the axle.
Here's a side view.
The front of the robot is pointing to the right of the photo. The right motor has a grey wire and the left motor has a black wire.
-Phil
The normal Arlo has two casters. My robot only has one.
I kept the distance between the wheels on my bot the same as the distance between the Arlo wheels so the navigation equations worked out the same.
Here's my bot superimposed on the Arlo platform.
(Ignore the "Smartarm". I was just curious about spacing.)
As you can see, my robot is smaller than the Arlo mainly because I kept the base in between the two wheels instead of having the wheels recessed.
I was following the advice given by Dave Anderson
The servo pulse record/playback option reminds me of Makezine's TRS Drawbot project. Someday I'll build one.
http://makezine.com/projects/trs-drawbot-2/
My next thing will be to see if Arlo will work well outdoors. I need an indoor/outdoor platform
that can run slow inside and fast when outside.
This is how I am using the Arlso for now....
Your Cy robot is awesome, great use of the Arlo platform.
Thank for sharing your video.
Do you have a web page that explains more about Cy?
still have more info to add later on. If you visit Ez-robot.com and look up Cybot2.0 you will see a couple more short video links as well (my first videos ever too).
It looks like EZrobot sends the Sabertooth commands in what they call "simple serial".
This gives you 64 levels of speed in each direction.
You're not a fan of the Propeller but do you have one?
If you have one, it could act as a speed control device to balance the speed of the two Arlo motors. It would use the pulses you normally send to the HB-25 as input and combine this with information from the encoders and then send a modified signal to the HB-25. The program would change the signal from a "power control" signal to a "speed control" signal. The Propeller would do all this automatically and wouldn't need input from your main controller other than the pulses you'd normally send directly to the HB-25 controllers.
I've modified the Eddie firmware to use pulses as inputs. I haven't tested it yet but I'm sure I can get this sort of program to work. Let me know if you're interested in using the the program and I'll make some time to test what I've written and make sure it works as I expect it should.
While I would like the robot to move abit more straight, its not a show stopper for me. all the ultrasonic sensors and bumper switches are to help avoid most walls and such. Building CY has been a fun project, just something to do. Im more for the hardware side of building and am already planning my next project.
The output will be pulses to control the HB-25. The output pulses will be almost the same as the input pulses but the pulses will be modified to take into consideration the actual speed of the motors.
A while ago someone gave me some of used Propeller boards. I'm like to send you one of these with the above mentioned program installed. It shouldn't change the way you interface with the motors.