I was wondering about the USB port on the Toshiba. One of the best things about the ICraig is the separate power and full-sized USB port. Even though you can use a power+OTG connector some battery drivers seem confused by this. The micro-HDMI would make it a good video server but then the bigger screen isn't an advantage.
O-Depot also has a 14" Toshiba Win10 notebook for $120 which makes more sense in some cases. If you want to fight the Black Friday crowds at 6pm Thursday.
BF ad is 5 posts back. I still miss numbered posts.
Screen is plastic and scratches. Quest for scratch removal begins. Not sure how the scratches happened, no drops or drama. Not deep, no fingernail feely, but very visible against LCD screen. Should polish out. From now on, I'll put a cloth between screen & keyboard when I fold up for transport.
Screen is plastic and scratches. Quest for scratch removal begins. Not sure how the scratches happened, no drops or drama. Not deep, no fingernail feely, but very visible against LCD screen. Should polish out. From now on, I'll put a cloth between screen & keyboard when I fold up for transport.
Not sure if you want to try this, but I had a convertible with a plastic rear window that was so badly scratched I could not see out of it. Taped some plastic sheeting around the outside edges to protect the fabric and body paint, placed rags on the plastic across the bottom to absorb any runoff, and poured a small stream of acetone across the top of the window. Didn't result in a perfectly clear window but it was more than good enough to see out of.
Look for micro-mesh sanding pads. They go up to 12,000 grit. I use then to finish acrylic pens to a super glossy finsh. There are also liquid polishing compounds for similar jobs. Get an entire set and start at 1500 grit and work your way up to 12,000.
I'm assuming the screen is some sort of plastic and not gorilla glass. If it glass, then the only solution is to take the diamond pinkie rings away from your gorilla.
Not sure if you have a product called duraglit over there its cotton wool with a polish soaked in it but it works brilliantly on getting scratches out of acrylic, have used it to get scratches out of watch faces with great success, though it takes a lot of elbow grease.
I'd love to know how these hardware manufacturers are selling devices with Windows 10 for less than what Microsoft charges an individual for a single license alone. Not that I'd use Windows 10 ever, but a Windows 7 license for under $25 would be nice.
I seem to recall reading that with 8/8.1 it was devices smaller than 10" didn't require license / royalty fees, and with Win10 they changed the size to 8" or smaller and dropped Office 365 trial.
I did google up some articles that talked about the fee being dropped from the normal $50 to $15 for small screen devices, so that probably explains it. Still costs $130 to buy a license as an individual.
That's why I think people on 7 and 8.1 should image their system, then upgrade to 10 and activate it. After then, you can restore the image and do whatever, and later if they want, can put 10 back on at no cost.
That's not a bad plan. Maybe by 2020 when (if) support for Windows 7 ends, they'll have all the problems with Windows 10 sorted out and there will be an actual spyware free version.
Great plan. I think I'm going to do this over the holiday. Getting a Win 10 license for nothing is likely to come in handy. And I can keep my, "run windows when other people pay for it" rule intact!
An optical USB mouse stays on even when the computer sleeps, wasting battery power. A power switch like this is helpful if you don't want to unplug your mouse every time.
I have a wireless optical USB track ball. It has an on/off switch but I rarely use it.
It uses a single A size battery and that has survived nearly 2 years.
If you want to leave the pointer connected in sleep (as opposed to power-down, which turns off power to the USB ports) use a wireless pointer. I never use sleep mode except for very brief shutdowns when I know I'll be repowering soon because sleep mode has so many flaky glitches.
The main reason USB devices don't power down in sleep mode is that some of the device drivers, which which run at ring 0 and can crash the OS, react badly to finding their hardware gone once they've booted. I have an older USB-serial cable that reliably hard crashes the OS if I make the mistake of removing it while the computer is asleep.
The free Windows 10 that comes with these small tablets is only 32 bit. Laptops etc do a free upgrade to w10 64 bit.
The pre-installed Win10 is typically 32 bit because they usually don't have in-built resources requiring 64 bit, i.e. usually less than 4GB RAM for instance. So, 32bit works fine. Most current laptops that ship with 4GB or less RAM also typically have 32bit Windows installed, unless they have a high-end video adapter with dedicated memory that might exceed the 4GB RAM limit imposed by 32bit Windows.
So... an in-place Win10 update will update whichever Windows version that is installed to the comparable Win10 version, i.e. if the computer is currently running 32bit Windows, then 32bit Win10 you get and if it's running 64bit, you get 64bit Win10.
However, there's nothing stopping one from taking a computer with 32bit Windows installed and installing 64bit Win10 if the processor is so capable other than it will require a full, clean install, just like any other version of any other OS requires when moving from 32 to 64 bit. It just takes a few extra steps such as using the Media Creation Tool to create a bootable USB stick and doing a clean install.
My suggestion, if one wants to take one of these 32bit tablets to 64bit Win10 is to do the in-place upgrade, use a Microsoft Account to log in and activate it, then do a clean install with 64bit Win10 and use the same Microsoft Account to log in.
Anybody have thier HP Stream 7 go through a BIOS reset today? It almost look like a hardware failure as it was doing a BIOS restore. Then MS did their updates.
Another rooster in the henhouse! Fry's insider deal is an Ematic 9" tablet/laptop for $99. Specs look similar to the Craig tablet, 1/32GB, 9" touchscreen, Atom, Win8.1.
That Ematic basically repeats the main problem with the Stream 7 of not having a real USB port, you have to use an OTG splitter on the "power" jack. It does have a real headphone jack but it also has a Bluetooth keyboard instead of the iCraig's custom USB dock solution, which means the keyboard needs to be paired and charged up once in awhile.
I have been watching hours of online video on my iCraig with the HDMI port and I think I am going to have to break down and get a HDMI switch so I won't wear out the cable switching my single-port TV between the iCraig and the DVD player. It is a better and not much more expensive solution than the ChromeCast because it works with all Windows software including DRM stuff like Hoopla which won't cast, and with a bluetooth mouse I can "remote control" it right from the living room instead of having to run back to the actual computer to hit pause or start another video.
After coming back fuming about the keyboard, my wife has also been using the heck out of hers with the very Microsoft bluetooth keyboard that refused to work for her in Nepal. (Did it need to download a driver it could only get in the US? I can't figure that one out.) But she's been setting up shop with it on the porch or in the living room and using it to do basic online and local document editing so she doesn't have to stay cooped up in her office with the "real" computer. So far since the return from Nepal no troubles.
Comments
Overall, I'm satisfied with the table. It does what I purchased it for better than the old laptop did.
BF ad is 5 posts back. I still miss numbered posts.
I.e.: http://forums.parallax.com/discussion/comment/1354839/#Comment_1354839
... takes you to localroger's post up above.
Not sure if you want to try this, but I had a convertible with a plastic rear window that was so badly scratched I could not see out of it. Taped some plastic sheeting around the outside edges to protect the fabric and body paint, placed rags on the plastic across the bottom to absorb any runoff, and poured a small stream of acetone across the top of the window. Didn't result in a perfectly clear window but it was more than good enough to see out of.
I'm assuming the screen is some sort of plastic and not gorilla glass. If it glass, then the only solution is to take the diamond pinkie rings away from your gorilla.
Though it might take more elbow grease than you care to invest.
Try toothpaste:
Today only, you must join/acct/email blah blah..
http://images.frys.com/art/email/121715_thu704awx/116box_web.html
https://answers.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/forum/windows_10-win_upgrade/is-windows-10-upgrade-available-to-windows-81-with/3e682d67-35ab-458a-adcd-1e3486536287?auth=1
*edit- purportedly before 29 July 2016.
Thanks.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/USB-to-Micro-USB-ON-OFF-Power-Switch-Charger-Cable-For-Arduino-Raspberry-Pi-/401017793408
or a switched hub like
http://www.ebay.com/itm/USB2-0-High-Speed-4-Port-Power-On-Off-Switch-LED-Hub-for-PC-Laptop-Notebook-CM-/291609111837
It uses a single A size battery and that has survived nearly 2 years.
The main reason USB devices don't power down in sleep mode is that some of the device drivers, which which run at ring 0 and can crash the OS, react badly to finding their hardware gone once they've booted. I have an older USB-serial cable that reliably hard crashes the OS if I make the mistake of removing it while the computer is asleep.
So... an in-place Win10 update will update whichever Windows version that is installed to the comparable Win10 version, i.e. if the computer is currently running 32bit Windows, then 32bit Win10 you get and if it's running 64bit, you get 64bit Win10.
However, there's nothing stopping one from taking a computer with 32bit Windows installed and installing 64bit Win10 if the processor is so capable other than it will require a full, clean install, just like any other version of any other OS requires when moving from 32 to 64 bit. It just takes a few extra steps such as using the Media Creation Tool to create a bootable USB stick and doing a clean install.
My suggestion, if one wants to take one of these 32bit tablets to 64bit Win10 is to do the in-place upgrade, use a Microsoft Account to log in and activate it, then do a clean install with 64bit Win10 and use the same Microsoft Account to log in.
Online, free ship!
http://www.frys.com/product/8573349?site=
I have been watching hours of online video on my iCraig with the HDMI port and I think I am going to have to break down and get a HDMI switch so I won't wear out the cable switching my single-port TV between the iCraig and the DVD player. It is a better and not much more expensive solution than the ChromeCast because it works with all Windows software including DRM stuff like Hoopla which won't cast, and with a bluetooth mouse I can "remote control" it right from the living room instead of having to run back to the actual computer to hit pause or start another video.
After coming back fuming about the keyboard, my wife has also been using the heck out of hers with the very Microsoft bluetooth keyboard that refused to work for her in Nepal. (Did it need to download a driver it could only get in the US? I can't figure that one out.) But she's been setting up shop with it on the porch or in the living room and using it to do basic online and local document editing so she doesn't have to stay cooped up in her office with the "real" computer. So far since the return from Nepal no troubles.