The DOUT pin is on the flat side of the LED, next is GND, 5V, and DIN.
Using JonnyMacs code the Propeller pin 15 goes to the first LED's DIN. The DOUT goes to the DIN on the next LED, etc, etc, etc daisy chaining the LEDs.
I am using a separate 5V supply for the LEDs and connect the prop's GND to LED supply's ground.
I used a 10k resistor between the prop and the first LED's DIN and a 22uf cap across the 5V and GND.
Click the picture I attached and view it full screen - it's easy to see the breadboard wiring.
Will any other size Cap work? I seem to have a ton of pf but very few uf. I also have a ton of ceramic Caps.
They recommend at least 10uf but if you are using a separate power supply, it may already have a capacitor.
Make sure the voltage to the LEDS 5V or less.
Got it. And I see where I was messing up at. Just in case others do the same: The SolderingSunday and Pololu LED's are not Identical. The pinouts are different. I was looking at the pic for the SolderingSunday LED's but using the Pololu LED's!!!!
OK. I got it. Thanks for the help. Now I need to put together a string of these and add a Solar battery charger so the wife can put them on her new store bought gazebo!!!
EDIT: Every now and then I have to put everything aside and make something for her to keep the balance. ( And the Peace!!! ) Happy Wife = Happy Life.
OK. I got it. Thanks for the help. Now I need to put together a string of these and add a Solar battery charger so the wife can put them on her new store bought gazebo!!!
EDIT: Every now and then I have to put everything aside and make something for her to keep the balance. ( And the Peace!!! ) Happy Wife = Happy Life.
This is VERY strange. Using a Prop BOE Board and 2 of the Serial addressable RGB LED's I am able to get the code to work just fine when using the Prop BOE's 3.3V, However, when I try to use the 5V it does not work. I know there is an explanation for this but I just find it odd that it works at 3.3V and not at 5V. I would suspect it should be the other way around. I am going to attach a separate 5V supply to see what happens.
Recently, I've seen clones of these surfaced (PL9823) in the Google searches and Alibaba too.
I've checked the datasheet for these and shouldn't it require a current limiting resistor in the +5V line? The example provided inside the datasheet showed a resistor but no value.
shouldn't it require a current limiting resistor in the +5V line?
You are correct. I just need to figure out the best one to get the brightest light possible. I started with a 10k Ohms. It is very dim but works as it is suppose to.
It turns out that the Pololu leds expect the 24bit color value to be GRB rather than RGB.
My driver corrects for that in the PASM code (always has). I just updated both versions (auto-refresh and single-shot) with PASM code that is in Captain Obvious mode (versus a clever trick from Tony that was hard for others to follow).
I love this driver!!!! However, what do I need to do if all I want is for the rainbow of colors to continually cycle? I have decided to use these LED's and JM;s awesome driver for my Dog Collar project. I do not need anything fancy but I do want the colors to blink constantly rather than stopping the way it does after all colors have been cycled. In other words, when running the code I want what happens for the first 6 seconds to happen constantly. Thanks for the help.
Comments
EDIT: Also, Is a resistor required?
These things are pretty bright - my camera adjusted for the brightness but the tops still look almost white.
They look better in person...
EDIT: And what resistor is it that you are using?
The Pololu product page explains it http://www.pololu.com/product/2536 - find the section "Using the LED" and pin outs.
The DOUT pin is on the flat side of the LED, next is GND, 5V, and DIN.
Using JonnyMacs code the Propeller pin 15 goes to the first LED's DIN. The DOUT goes to the DIN on the next LED, etc, etc, etc daisy chaining the LEDs.
I am using a separate 5V supply for the LEDs and connect the prop's GND to LED supply's ground.
I used a 10k resistor between the prop and the first LED's DIN and a 22uf cap across the 5V and GND.
Click the picture I attached and view it full screen - it's easy to see the breadboard wiring.
They recommend at least 10uf but if you are using a separate power supply, it may already have a capacitor.
Make sure the voltage to the LEDS 5V or less.
It's a procedure in JonnyMac's demo pgm
EDIT: Every now and then I have to put everything aside and make something for her to keep the balance. ( And the Peace!!! ) Happy Wife = Happy Life.
One of the LED strips might have been a easier for the gazebo since they are waterproof...
http://www.pololu.com/product/2546
It turns out that the Pololu leds expect the 24bit color value to be GRB rather than RGB.
Related info various products: http://forums.adafruit.com/viewtopic.php?f=47&t=41382#p225335
I changed Jon's "Color" procedure
My demo code which revealed the difference
I bought a whole bunch of each just Friday, but I don't have them yet.
I've checked the datasheet for these and shouldn't it require a current limiting resistor in the +5V line? The example provided inside the datasheet showed a resistor but no value.
My driver corrects for that in the PASM code (always has). I just updated both versions (auto-refresh and single-shot) with PASM code that is in Captain Obvious mode (versus a clever trick from Tony that was hard for others to follow).
Update is here:
-- http://obex.parallax.com/object/703
Jon,
I had an older version zip file I got from one of your forum threads - the jm_ws2812 file was dated 9/9/2013. It was doing RGB rather than GRB.
I'm glad the latest version is in the OBEX so we don't have to search the forum.
Thanks,
Ron
I'm using the new version of the driver from the OBEX and I still believe the RGB vs GRB issue exists.
My setup uses 10 LEDS and the attached code attempts to drive them all red then, green, then blue, then yellow, then purple.
However they go from green to red to blue to yellow to cyan unless I modify the following routine in jm_ws2812.spin
When I swap the red and green values in the array (i.e. green in the 3rd byte and red in the 2nd),
the colors are displayed correctly.
I don't know Andy, forever is a long time
Just insert a "repeat" after the pause(10) and indent all of the lines following it in the "main" routine.
Pretty basic spin code...
Maybe it is a power issue - how are you supplying power to the LEDs? I am using a separate supply/voltage regulator.
Try putting some debug statements in there and use the serial terminal program to see what's happening...