Thanks tubular. Nice job. Now I need to update my boards there too!
Absolutely! Get some photos up that do your designs justice. I added you as a member so you can edit yourself, otherwise just shoot me whatever you want updated
Wow, you guys are really putting all the decorations ... won't be surprise codes that runs on individual boards to be up as well. I'd better start doing my part tonight ....
Wow, you guys are really putting all the decorations ... won't be surprise codes that runs on individual boards to be up as well. I'd better start doing my part tonight ....
I hope we do get to that stage. There's still a bit to do on the hardware spec side before we're finally able to play.
I'm looking forward to actually building some or all of these designs - it'll be easier once we have the mouser parts kits up. Then it would be good to have some demo software (perhaps in both Spin and C) to show off come of the specific capabilities of each of the boards.
I count 5 & 1/2 PP boards. The 1/2 is a half width board with PP holes on the sides.
Yes this is correct, there is
* JonnyMac's original Propeller Platform (all DIP)
* Gadget Gangster's PP USB
* Ariba's PropinoPP (see its own Smorgasboard page)
* Roadster's PropGFXlite
* My PPLCI (for 12~48v operation and I/o)
* Max72's narrow PP board ("Scheda 2")
5 Platform compatible boards! Even better. I was having a tough time deciding between 1 and 2 SmorgasBoards, but I think one should be enough now...
I'm going to have to put a link to that board on my website. I have a lot of things that are Propeller Platform compatible and this gives people a cheap way to get a lot of different boards working at a very reasonable cost.
Don't forget there is also a PropPlug equivalent too, capable of powering (5V out) your project from the USB (within USB power specifications). It's smt but with increased solder pads to make hand soldering easier. Why not give smt a go!
Just got my board today. I think I see 4 that look like Propeller Platforms, so that's good, makes it a good deal for me.
The others I think of as bonus. I'll probably try the Prop Plug equivalent at least.
The gold flash is very, very nice. Another item on the list of things I can't do with ExpressPCB (sigh).
We saw three of these boards go out in the last month...
I've issued a challenge tonight on the Propellerpowered forums. Addressing the scary subject of home SMD assembly. (A good October topic!)
I'm going to start by stocking two kits. (Need suggestions on which ones) and create step-by-step instructions to assemble them using only typical tools and materials which are available to the home hobbiest. We should start simple and use a couple of the smaller assemblies as it will help with stock of the kits. (You'll still need to get your SmorgasBoard, as the kits will only have the parts you need!) and build confidence as we move forward.
It's time that we removed the scary masks that seem to shadow SMD for DIY'ers. I'm proposing to help blaze a trail here using SmorgasBoard.
Suggestions on which two kits we should begin with are sought!
You need to select a pcb(s) that does not have a lot of smt in case you get it wrong. Also, the pcb needs to be laid out for hand soldering - this uses longer pads allowing you to swipe your soldering iron from the pin(s) out along the pad(s). This often will remove a solder bridge.
Next, you do not want to have a tight pitch smt part. Don't try an FT232RL first up - that rules out a number of pcbs unless you can bypass the FT232 easily.
PCBs using the TSSOP8 for the eeprom is a tight pitch, but pins 1-4 are joined together, so that is at least one side that does not matter.
Jazzed: I don't have any problems soldering them. But originally they were harder until I got used to soldering them, and others at 0.65mm pitch. I use a flux pencil which works brilliantly. And a temperature controlled fine tip soldering iron, and of course solder braid for just in case.
My initial thought was that there are easier designs to learn to SMT solder on, than those on the Smorgasboard. Bigger 1206 passives etc.
But later I thought why not aim high and educate, then those learning from the tutorials would be more capable. There are several tricks, why not highlight those tricks as they occur?
Besides we'll be better prepared for having to solder the Propeller 2...
Btw the FT232RL isn't too bad, its pins are a wider pitch than the propeller.
Let us look at this logically...
I will take my CpuBlade as an example...
The references below refer to the pcb when viewed with the writing for the IO pins correctly oriented (i.e. xtal is at the bottom)
Solder the Propeller QFP (I extended the pins to make hand soldering easier)
Place a link in the via pins marked 3V3 (this links out the onboard 3v3 regulator) - just below IO "7" on the top left
All prop pins are now brought out to the outer edge holes
Meter between 5V (will now be 3v3) & GND and ensure no shorts
Meter between adjacent IO pins e.g. between 0-1, 1-2, 2-3, etc and ensure no shorts
Solder in capacitors C4 and C6 (0.1uF 0805)
Again meter between 5V(3v3) and GND at the pcb edge holes and ensure no shorts
Place a link in the lower 2 via pins (top right running down 3 vias marked at the lower end QE). This connects the reset line directly to the propeller and bypasses the onboard transistor reset circuit.
Attach a 3v3 power supply to the edge holes 5V(3v3) and GND (these run down left side from the top)
Turn on the power
Attach a propplug to the edge holes GND, /RST, 31, 30 (these run down the right side from the top and match the propplug connector)
You can now try PropTool to see if it correctly identifies the propeller chip. If so, so far so good.
If not, then a few propeller pins need to be checked (after removing the power and propplug) ...
The 4 power pins need to be metered from the top left edge hole marked 5V
The 4 ground pins and BOE pin need to be metered from the GND hole (2nd pin left side down from top)
The reset pin and the /RST hole (2nd pin right side down from top)
The P31 pin and the "31" hole (3rd pin right side down from top)
The P30 pin and the "30" hole (4th pin right side down from top)
Retry the tests above until it works
Apply power and propplug as before and...
Download TEST1 and vefiry it works (to be done)
Remove power and propplug and...
Solder in the xtal socket pins and insert a crystal after trimming the xtal pins to ??mm length - slightly longer is ok, but no shorter (or crystal using a toothpick under the xtal to prevent it touching the pads)
Apply power and propplug as before and...
Download TEST2 and verify it works (to be done)
Remove power and propplug and...
Solder in the EEPROM making sure you have it right way around - shorts between pins 1-4 (left side i.e. Q2 side) of the eeprom will not matter
Solder in RN1 (either way) - shorts on pins 5-8 (right side i.e. hole "23" side) will not matter
Place a link in the via pins marked WE (right side near holes "30" and "29"). This is the write enable pin for the eeprom.
Apply power and propplug as before and...
Download TEST3 into eeprom and verify it works (to be done)
Power off and back on and verify that TEST3 is in eeprom and works
Remove power and propplug and...
Solder in C2 (10uF 6V 0805) If a tantalum is used ensure the white bar is on the + side.
Yes, that's what I've got in mind... Only with pictures and video.. (The fun I get to have)..
Could you post up or send me a BOM sheet for the Cpublade when you get a chance? Thanks!
SMT soldering certainly intimidates me. I've had small success with resistors, but IC's seem daunting.
I'm 58 and don't have much trouble with medium - to -medium small SMT. The correct soldering iron, good flux, 63/37 solder, and solder wick goes a long way.
I don't even use a 9-10" magnifier. I just use a hand held to check after I solder and apply solder wick to the offending bridges.
Pending some approvals, Propellerpowered will be featuring parts kits for the following projects immediately:
Cluso's FT232
SpinSocket Flash
CpuBlade & Memblade
Gadget Gangster USB Protoboard
Even if you already have one or more of these products which were manufactured. (Please support these projects by buying them when you can!) I want to challenge us to DIY your own version from the Smogasboard.
We'll start easy on everyone moving from the simple-to-build projects, and build everyone's confidence and skills as we move forard. Let's get ready for Propeller 2, build skills required now.
MemBlade: U3 is a 74LVC1G97DBV and Q1 is the same 3v3 regulator as used in the CpuBlade
FT232: Q1 is a MMBT3904 or use the same as Q2 (inbuilt bias resistors) on CpuBlade and omit R3 ; use a 3mm LED.
I need to do a proper BOM - just no time atm. I can supply you with the 1x9 headers (they are female with long pins so they stack). I also have quite a few CpuBlade pcbs of the earlier rev (uses discrete resistors).
Comments
Absolutely! Get some photos up that do your designs justice. I added you as a member so you can edit yourself, otherwise just shoot me whatever you want updated
I hope we do get to that stage. There's still a bit to do on the hardware spec side before we're finally able to play.
I'm looking forward to actually building some or all of these designs - it'll be easier once we have the mouser parts kits up. Then it would be good to have some demo software (perhaps in both Spin and C) to show off come of the specific capabilities of each of the boards.
I count 5 & 1/2 PP boards. The 1/2 is a half width board with PP holes on the sides.
Yes this is correct, there is
* JonnyMac's original Propeller Platform (all DIP)
* Gadget Gangster's PP USB
* Ariba's PropinoPP (see its own Smorgasboard page)
* Roadster's PropGFXlite
* My PPLCI (for 12~48v operation and I/o)
* Max72's narrow PP board ("Scheda 2")
have fun
I'm going to have to put a link to that board on my website. I have a lot of things that are Propeller Platform compatible and this gives people a cheap way to get a lot of different boards working at a very reasonable cost.
Here's a photo of Cluso's FT232 board programming my Ninja board.
Sapieha also has a useful "utility board" with FM31L278 (RTC, FRAM, Power supervisor) and Eeprom on board
re:programming my Ninja board.
Very interesting design.:cool:
I'm halfway through building a linear Prusa 3d printer, it will be fun to make a case for this design.
The others I think of as bonus. I'll probably try the Prop Plug equivalent at least.
The gold flash is very, very nice. Another item on the list of things I can't do with ExpressPCB (sigh).
Rayman you can always pay the ~$60 to get the gerbers and go elsewhere, but it seems a shame to have to
The nice thing about the gold plating is the boards seem to "keep" well on the shelf.
The SmorgasBoard is now available from OBC's shiny new PropellerPowered shop, in addition to Gadget Gangster.
I've issued a challenge tonight on the Propellerpowered forums. Addressing the scary subject of home SMD assembly. (A good October topic!)
I'm going to start by stocking two kits. (Need suggestions on which ones) and create step-by-step instructions to assemble them using only typical tools and materials which are available to the home hobbiest. We should start simple and use a couple of the smaller assemblies as it will help with stock of the kits. (You'll still need to get your SmorgasBoard, as the kits will only have the parts you need!) and build confidence as we move forward.
It's time that we removed the scary masks that seem to shadow SMD for DIY'ers. I'm proposing to help blaze a trail here using SmorgasBoard.
Suggestions on which two kits we should begin with are sought!
Jeff
Next, you do not want to have a tight pitch smt part. Don't try an FT232RL first up - that rules out a number of pcbs unless you can bypass the FT232 easily.
PCBs using the TSSOP8 for the eeprom is a tight pitch, but pins 1-4 are joined together, so that is at least one side that does not matter.
But later I thought why not aim high and educate, then those learning from the tutorials would be more capable. There are several tricks, why not highlight those tricks as they occur?
Besides we'll be better prepared for having to solder the Propeller 2...
Btw the FT232RL isn't too bad, its pins are a wider pitch than the propeller.
I will take my CpuBlade as an example...
- The references below refer to the pcb when viewed with the writing for the IO pins correctly oriented (i.e. xtal is at the bottom)
- Solder the Propeller QFP (I extended the pins to make hand soldering easier)
- Place a link in the via pins marked 3V3 (this links out the onboard 3v3 regulator) - just below IO "7" on the top left
- All prop pins are now brought out to the outer edge holes
- Meter between 5V (will now be 3v3) & GND and ensure no shorts
- Meter between adjacent IO pins e.g. between 0-1, 1-2, 2-3, etc and ensure no shorts
- Solder in capacitors C4 and C6 (0.1uF 0805)
- Again meter between 5V(3v3) and GND at the pcb edge holes and ensure no shorts
- Place a link in the lower 2 via pins (top right running down 3 vias marked at the lower end QE). This connects the reset line directly to the propeller and bypasses the onboard transistor reset circuit.
- Attach a 3v3 power supply to the edge holes 5V(3v3) and GND (these run down left side from the top)
- Turn on the power
- Attach a propplug to the edge holes GND, /RST, 31, 30 (these run down the right side from the top and match the propplug connector)
- You can now try PropTool to see if it correctly identifies the propeller chip. If so, so far so good.
- If not, then a few propeller pins need to be checked (after removing the power and propplug) ...
- The 4 power pins need to be metered from the top left edge hole marked 5V
- The 4 ground pins and BOE pin need to be metered from the GND hole (2nd pin left side down from top)
- The reset pin and the /RST hole (2nd pin right side down from top)
- The P31 pin and the "31" hole (3rd pin right side down from top)
- The P30 pin and the "30" hole (4th pin right side down from top)
- Retry the tests above until it works
- Apply power and propplug as before and...
- Download TEST1 and vefiry it works (to be done)
- Remove power and propplug and...
- Solder in the xtal socket pins and insert a crystal after trimming the xtal pins to ??mm length - slightly longer is ok, but no shorter (or crystal using a toothpick under the xtal to prevent it touching the pads)
- Apply power and propplug as before and...
- Download TEST2 and verify it works (to be done)
- Remove power and propplug and...
- Solder in the EEPROM making sure you have it right way around - shorts between pins 1-4 (left side i.e. Q2 side) of the eeprom will not matter
- Solder in RN1 (either way) - shorts on pins 5-8 (right side i.e. hole "23" side) will not matter
- Place a link in the via pins marked WE (right side near holes "30" and "29"). This is the write enable pin for the eeprom.
- Apply power and propplug as before and...
- Download TEST3 into eeprom and verify it works (to be done)
- Power off and back on and verify that TEST3 is in eeprom and works
- Remove power and propplug and...
- Solder in C2 (10uF 6V 0805) If a tantalum is used ensure the white bar is on the + side.
- ONBOARD 3V3 REGULATOR OPTION (from 5V regulated supply)...
- Solder in Q1 LDO regulator
- Solder in C1 (10uF 6V 0805) If a tantalum is used ensure the white bar is on the + side.
- Remove the 3V3 link fitted in 3. above
- Retest supplying 5V
- ONBOARD TRANSISTOR RESET CIRCUIT OPTION
- Solder in Q2 (SOT23-3 npn transistor with inbuilt bias resistors DigiKey DDTC113ZCA-FDICT-ND)
- If you do not have a transistor with inbuilt bias resistors, then a 10K 0805 can be soldered between the Q2 legs ensuring they do not short to C3
- Solder in C3 (10nF 0805)
- Swap the QE link (in 7 above) to the top pair of via pins (enables the onboard transistor cct)
- This permits the use of a USB cheaper propplug equivalent without the reset circuit
- Retest
- Note that the link can be swapped to insert/remove the onboard transistor circuit
- If you intend on overclocking, I suggest you also fit C5 & C7 (0.1uF 0805)
- If you wish to prevent the eeprom from being overwritten, remove the link fitted in 21 above
If you do not have a meter, then use a superbright LED in series with a 4K7 resistor and 3V battery should do just fine.Yes, that's what I've got in mind... Only with pictures and video.. (The fun I get to have)..
Could you post up or send me a BOM sheet for the Cpublade when you get a chance? Thanks!
Jeff
I'm 58 and don't have much trouble with medium - to -medium small SMT. The correct soldering iron, good flux, 63/37 solder, and solder wick goes a long way.
I don't even use a 9-10" magnifier. I just use a hand held to check after I solder and apply solder wick to the offending bridges.
Jim
Even if you already have one or more of these products which were manufactured. (Please support these projects by buying them when you can!) I want to challenge us to DIY your own version from the Smogasboard.
Official "SMD Challenge" Thread:
http://propellerpowered.com/forum/index.php?topic=163.0
We'll start easy on everyone moving from the simple-to-build projects, and build everyone's confidence and skills as we move forard. Let's get ready for Propeller 2, build skills required now.
Jeff
MemBlade: U3 is a 74LVC1G97DBV and Q1 is the same 3v3 regulator as used in the CpuBlade
FT232: Q1 is a MMBT3904 or use the same as Q2 (inbuilt bias resistors) on CpuBlade and omit R3 ; use a 3mm LED.
I need to do a proper BOM - just no time atm. I can supply you with the 1x9 headers (they are female with long pins so they stack). I also have quite a few CpuBlade pcbs of the earlier rev (uses discrete resistors).
http://smorgasboard.wikispaces.com/
I'm here to ask the same. I'm not sure if the entire panel is available as a Gerber to allow someone else to produce.
I'm in on one if we can get enough people to get another set.