If you have patience, good vision, good tools and know the techniques, it is easy.
Some people use solder paste, stencil, and an oven even for single boards. Others do it all by hand.
Look at some YouTube videos to get ideas or find a friend that knows how to do it.
There is so much SMT on the TetraProp board that you can get lots of practice.
However, TetraProp is probably not a good beginners SMT board.
Compared to a lot of other surface mount boards this one looks like it would be pretty easy to assemble. I wrote a doc on how to make a custom Stamp module using the surface mount OEM chips from Parallax. The same techniques will work for the TetraProp boards. You can read about the module here and find a pdf for the build docs in the thread as well:
Ape, actually. Specifically a 1 year old bonobo named Zeke.
I stand corrected.. The fact that you know specific details means that there is probably an interesting story here, perhaps we'll get you to share in General [chatter] sometime?
Edit: (Can't resist) Why do Gorillas have big nostrils? They have big fingers.
I stand corrected.. The fact that you know specific details means that there is probably an interesting story here, perhaps we'll get you to share in General [chatter] sometime?
Edit: (Can't resist) Why do Gorillas have big nostrils? They have big fingers.
Regarding the humor... For the bonobos, the punchline might be "Because their friends have big fingers." They will help each other out with all sorts of grooming.
Good temperature controlled soldering iron with fine tip
Good quality fine solder with flux
Good quality flux pen
Solder wick (also called solder braid)
Tweezers (for electronics)
To solder the Prop QFP44 IC, wipe the flux pen over the solder pads on the pcb - across them in each of 4 rows (i.e. not individual pads, but along the 11 pads in one swipe). Not too much flux! Then wipe the pen across the pads on the underside of the Prop IC, again with not too much flux!
It is important to keep your solder tip clean - a moist sponge to wipe it clean is all that is required.
Place the prop on the pcb, square on all pads. This is the difficult bit... Melt some solder onto the soldering iron tip, then holding the top of the prop chip with a finger to keep it in place, and with the other hand touch the soldering iron onto one of the corner pads of the prop chip/pcb. Don't worry about making this a good joint, just a dab to tack it in place. Hopefully the prop is still square to the pads, if not heat the pad and square up. Desolder if necessary. Once square, do the same to another corner pin on the opposite end/side - whichever is easiest.
Once you have two pads "tacked" you can now proceed to solder the other pads. Be careful not to overheat the pads or the IC. I just go down the pads, one at a time - heat the pad, not the pin, and immediately apply some solder (the solder wire) to your joint - not too much. You can always come back to retouch the pin/pad later (allow 10-15s for it to cool). Remember, you do not want to overheat the chip. When I first began soldering (through hole, not smt back then) I used to solder every second pin to ensure the heat was separated on the ic.
If you put too much solder on a pin, or a bridge between two pins, use the solder wick to remove the bridge or excess solder.
I use a Weller equivalent soldering iron.
The solder I use is made in the USA by KISIR and is marked "44" Rosin Core SN63PB37(SB) #66/44 .020 and has a manufacture date of 06/11/2003. (i.e 63% tin, 37% lead 0.020" dia). Yes, it contains lead so use caution or get a non-lead version although I have been told it is more difficult to solder.
The flux I use is "No clean flux dispensing pen" CW8100 made by ITWChentronics in GA USA.
The solder braid is "gootwick" CP-1515 made by Taiyo Electric Ind Co Ltd in Japan. (1.5mm width)
I hope this helps. Remember, if the pcb is only small with few components, it does not cost a fortune to throw it if you ruin it. Use that pcb to practice. In fact, if you want, buy some cheap pcbs and some cheap ics to practice, do so.
So, give it a go! - what have you got to lose? - only a few bucks and a bit of pride (and only if you tell/show someone).
Cluso99 is right about soldering surface mount stuff. All of his advice is great. I think he might be a bit more cautious than I would be in my suggestions. I think one could get by with even less equipment than he suggests.
I think you could get by with even a cheap soldering iron.
And . . .
Solder wick is the one thing (beside solder and a soldering iron) that is really needed to solder SMT chips. Radio shack used to sell good solder wick but then the changed their supplier or something because their solder wick now is terrible (it still has the same item number the good stuff had).
Melt some solder onto the soldering iron tip, then holding the top of the prop chip with a finger to keep it in place, and with the other hand touch the soldering iron onto one of the corner pads of the prop chip/pcb. Don't worry about making this a good joint, just a dab to tack it in place. Hopefully the prop is still square to the pads, if not heat the pad and square up. Desolder if necessary. Once square, do the same to another corner pin on the opposite end/side - whichever is easiest.
Once you have two pads "tacked" you can now proceed to solder the other pads.
Remove the tape after you have two corners tacked down.
Be careful not to overheat the pads or the IC. I just go down the pads, one at a time - heat the pad, not the pin, and immediately apply some solder (the solder wire) to your joint
Don't stress about this. It wont kill the Prop if you heat the pins too. Edit: Yes it will kill the Prop. The pads on the PCB are relatively fragile. I suggest doing it Clusso99's way.
The solder I use is made in the USA by KISIR and is marked "44" Rosin Core SN63PB37(SB) #66/44 .020 and has a manufacture date of 06/11/2003. (i.e 63% tin, 37% lead 0.020" dia). Yes, it contains lead so use caution or get a non-lead version although I have been told it is more difficult to solder.
Yes, use good old lead solder. Your less likely to damage the chips since it doesn't have to get as hot as the lead free stuff.
The flux I use is "No clean flux dispensing pen" CW8100 made by ITWChentronics in GA USA.
Flux pens are great but I don't think you really need one to solder a Prop. (I've never used one on the Props I've soldered.) Edit: It works a lot better with flux. I suggest doing it Clusso99's way.
I hope this helps. Remember, if the pcb is only small with few components, it does not cost a fortune to throw it if you ruin it. Use that pcb to practice. In fact, if you want, buy some cheap pcbs and some cheap ics to practice, do so.
So, give it a go! - what have you got to lose? - only a few bucks and a bit of pride (and only if you tell/show someone).
Yes, don't be a through-hole-only ninny! Heck the first SMT IC I soldered was a Prop. All of the Props (about a dozen) I've soldered worked. If I damaged the Props it was in one of those ways that don't show up for a long time.
Edit:I have since damaged Props while soldering. I suggest doing it Clusso99's way.
One other thing I might add to the list of equipment is a pair of reading glasses (if you're over forty).
Clusso99's post was great. I just thought he made it sound scarier than it really is to solder surface mount chips.
BTW There's a link to a SMT soldering tutorial (link) on the solder wick page I linked to.
Duane
I didn't mean to make it scary. That's why I said give it a go.
For newbies, I would say the flux pen should be mandatory because it makes the job so much easier. While I can solder the prop chips with ease without the flux pen, I have been (professionally) soldering for more than 40 years. I have done quite a lot of smt work by hand and I find the 0.5mm pitch the hardest, and yet the 0.65mm are ok - not much difference in dimensions, but way easier to solder. It also helps if the pcb has been designed for hand soldering. The recommended pads for the prop have a slightly larger pad which makes it easier.
I have to disagree with Duane on the heat info. Heat is a problem if you overheat the chips. Just be careful and use common sense. If you rest the iron on the pins of the IC for any length of time you can damage the IC, or other components. Sometimes you can draw excess solder from the pin/pad by touching the iron at the bend in the leg of the IC, and stroking the iron out to the end of the pad.
One other thing I might add to the list of equipment is a pair of reading glasses (if you're over forty).
I didn't require them when I was forty, but they have been with me for the past 15 years. Trouble is mine are multifocals for computer and elecrtonics. If I get up and walk around I have to be careful with them on as everything is out-of-focus. I use a magnifying glass to check some things out too. Gave my magi-lamp away when we moved onto the boat
I'll need to start using a flux pin when I solder Propeller chips.
I just wanted to let people to know you can do this stuff even if you don't have all the "right" equipment. I frequently hear people say "I'll need to get a better soldering iron" or "I need to get a hot air rework station" before they'll consider using surface mount chips. They're just not that hard to solder (at least the Prop isn't). The solder wick does the work for you. My Prop chips look like a mess after I've soldered all the pins. As I said before, usually all eleven pins are bridged on each side. The solder wick turns the hideous blobs of solder into neatly soldered pins.
If something is worth doing, it's worth doing wrong. Don't wait until you have all the yak fur you need before giving surface mount soldering a try.
I just reread parts of the tutorial. They agree with Cluso99 about using a relatively good soldering iron. The tutorial even says:
That $10 iron that you got in your freshman engineering kit is completely worthless.
I'm going to dig out my $10 soldering iron (how'd he know it was from a freshman engineering kit?) and use it to solder a Prop or two just to prove you don't really need special equipment. The special equipment is great but don't let not having it be an excuse not try surface mount soldering.
My first TetraProp board will be soldered with my $10 soldering iron.
Duane
P.S. I don't recommend using the phrase:
If something is worth doing, it's worth doing wrong.
Drag soldering is a useful technique for QFP devices. Tack the chip down at two opposite corners, apply plenty of jelly flux to the leads, and wipe a soldering iron with a small amount of solder on the tip down each row of leads. I use a special mini-hoof tip cartridge with my Metcal soldering station, but the technique works quite well with an ordinary Weller or whatever. Any bridges can be removed by cleaning the tip, melting the solder on the bridged leads, and withdrawing the tip along the leads. Desolderig braid is rarely required, and the results look very professional. It's also much faster than soldering leads individually.
Drag soldering is a useful technique for QFP devices. Tack the chip down at two opposite corners, apply plenty of jelly flux to the leads, and wipe a soldering iron with a small amount of solder on the tip down each row of leads. I use a special mini-hoof tip cartridge with my Metcal soldering station, but the technique works quite well with an ordinary Weller or whatever. Any bridges can be removed by cleaning the tip, melting the solder on the bridged leads, and withdrawing the tip along the leads. Desolderig braid is rarely required, and the results look very professional. It's also much faster than soldering leads individually.
That is essentially what I do except I use a flux syringe or a more annoying bottle. Metcal or Hakko (I have this Hakko 936) are good professional tools which have good tip contact design (rather than the screw on the $10 iron). Metcal stations have fast warm-up times. The useful "Helping Hands" magnifier is cheap, the alligator clips can help "anchor" fingers, and it fits neatly in my PANVISE attachment for rework. I also have a quiet 12V PC fan to suck the fumes away - the background hum helps me relax. A good light source is important. Having someone like my wife around to help in a crunch is priceless.
The flux I use comes in a syringe. I use an old second-hand Metcal STSS-PS2V power unit with a newer MX-500 handpiece and cartridges. STSS units can be picked up cheaply on eBay.
A few years ago Hakko copied Metcal's RF heating technology and got sued.
Just received a pair of blank TetraProp boards in the mail today. They look great! Extremely nice layout and attention to detail. Just ordered most of the parts I need to get these together and then I can see how I can work them into my next project....
Glad you guys got your boards. Hopefully schill will check in soon.
People have ordered some full assemblies, but I'm short some parts - everyone knows about it.
I will have everything I need by Thrusday. Hopefully I can get the boards in the mail Friday afternoon.
Partslist summary shows 16 machine pins for crystals. Only 8 are required.
Hello Steve,
It looks like the part locations for the 4.7K resistors may have changed for this latest revision of the board. Following the traces I am sure I have them in the correct location but if you could confirm the locations and update the BOM that may help others assemble the board.
Also, the 10uf cap seems a bit odd as they seem to have the banded mark on the negative side. Many of the surface mount caps have the band on the positive side (instead of the negative side on all the other parts I was used to) It seems that these parts follow a convention that I was familair with on most other parts but different than on the Tantalum surface mount caps I've used. Can you confirm the correct orientation for this part?
Glad you guys got your boards. Hopefully schill will check in soon.
People have ordered some full assemblies, but I'm short some parts - everyone knows about it.
I will have everything I need by Thrusday. Hopefully I can get the boards in the mail Friday afternoon.
Thanks.
--Steve
Sorry. I thought I confirmed that I received mine. I have all the parts on hand, but I haven't had a chance to start soldering yet (I was out of town for a while and didn't want to explain my soldering iron at the airport ).
It looks like the part locations for the 4.7K resistors may have changed for this latest revision of the board. Following the traces I am sure I have them in the correct location but if you could confirm the locations and update the BOM that may help others assemble the board.
Also, the 10uf cap seems a bit odd as they seem to have the banded mark on the negative side. Many of the surface mount caps have the band on the positive side (instead of the negative side on all the other parts I was used to) It seems that these parts follow a convention that I was familair with on most other parts but different than on the Tantalum surface mount caps I've used. Can you confirm the correct orientation for this part?
Thank You,
Robert
Oops. You're right about the 4.7K resistors - they are R1,2,5,6.
I have assembled boards ready to fill orders and will be sending PayPal invoices & shipping today.
I'm making a quick user-guide and a web page for MicroCSource.com today.
Here's an updated parts list and a placement drawing.
Did the orientation of the 10uf caps change from the initial board layout? When I look at the pictures of your assembled board in post #58 it sure looks like the banded end of the 10uf cap goes to the negative side of the pad.
Did the orientation of the 10uf caps change from the initial board layout? When I look at the pictures of your assembled board in post #58 it sure looks like the banded end of the 10uf cap goes to the negative side of the pad.
Robert
Hi Robert. Yes, the orientation changed from rev A0 to rev A1.
Hi Robert. Yes, the orientation changed from rev A0 to rev A1.
That explains it! Thanks for the clairification. If you happen to have any current pictures of an assembled version for the latest board that may help as a reference for others that build the board.
That explains it! Thanks for the clairification. If you happen to have any current pictures of an assembled version for the latest board that may help as a reference for others that build the board.
Now I can finish building the boards.
Robert
Indeed I have to take some for the web page anyway.
I removed all the rev A0 pictures from the thread so others don't get confused.
One other thing I have noticed is that when using the machine pins as a crystal socket the metal case for the crystal could possibly touch the socket. This could happen on any of the boards using a socket for the crystal. To ensure this isn't an issue either cut the pins slightly longer so they bottom out in the socket and keep a little clearance between the metal body and the sockets. Another option is to try using an insulator like these:
You may notice that forum people are getting a %30 discount on TetraProp boards
I don't have my shopping cart setup yet. Still working on that PayPal button.
The page you tried to access does not exist on this server. This page may not exist due to the following reasons:
You are the owner of this web site and you have not uploaded (or incorrectly uploaded) your web site. For information on uploading your web site using FTP client software or web design software, click here for FTP Upload Information.
The URL that you have entered in your browser is incorrect. Please re-enter the URL and try again.
The Link that you clicked on incorrectly points to this page. Please contact the owner of this web site to inform them of this situation.
Comments
Get some ChipQuik, in case you need to remove the Propeller chip. It makes it very easy.
PM sent.. schill has a monkey as his avatar, me.. I just have gorilla fingers. Thanks for help!
OBC
Ape, actually. Specifically a 1 year old bonobo named Zeke.
Compared to a lot of other surface mount boards this one looks like it would be pretty easy to assemble. I wrote a doc on how to make a custom Stamp module using the surface mount OEM chips from Parallax. The same techniques will work for the TetraProp boards. You can read about the module here and find a pdf for the build docs in the thread as well:
http://forums.parallax.com/showthread.php?114299-Carrier-PCB-for-OEM-BS2p40-Stamp-chip
Robert
http://www.robotworkshop.com/robotworkshop/projects/parallax/BS2p40oem.pdf
Nice doc!
I stand corrected..
Edit: (Can't resist) Why do Gorillas have big nostrils? They have big fingers.
OBC
No interesting story. Just someone I hang out with at the zoo when I have the time. Zeke is the smallest one in this video: http://forums.parallax.com/showthread.php?129219-video-link-test-thread
Regarding the humor... For the bonobos, the punchline might be "Because their friends have big fingers." They will help each other out with all sorts of grooming.
- Good temperature controlled soldering iron with fine tip
- Good quality fine solder with flux
- Good quality flux pen
- Solder wick (also called solder braid)
- Tweezers (for electronics)
To solder the Prop QFP44 IC, wipe the flux pen over the solder pads on the pcb - across them in each of 4 rows (i.e. not individual pads, but along the 11 pads in one swipe). Not too much flux! Then wipe the pen across the pads on the underside of the Prop IC, again with not too much flux!It is important to keep your solder tip clean - a moist sponge to wipe it clean is all that is required.
Place the prop on the pcb, square on all pads. This is the difficult bit... Melt some solder onto the soldering iron tip, then holding the top of the prop chip with a finger to keep it in place, and with the other hand touch the soldering iron onto one of the corner pads of the prop chip/pcb. Don't worry about making this a good joint, just a dab to tack it in place. Hopefully the prop is still square to the pads, if not heat the pad and square up. Desolder if necessary. Once square, do the same to another corner pin on the opposite end/side - whichever is easiest.
Once you have two pads "tacked" you can now proceed to solder the other pads. Be careful not to overheat the pads or the IC. I just go down the pads, one at a time - heat the pad, not the pin, and immediately apply some solder (the solder wire) to your joint - not too much. You can always come back to retouch the pin/pad later (allow 10-15s for it to cool). Remember, you do not want to overheat the chip. When I first began soldering (through hole, not smt back then) I used to solder every second pin to ensure the heat was separated on the ic.
If you put too much solder on a pin, or a bridge between two pins, use the solder wick to remove the bridge or excess solder.
I use a Weller equivalent soldering iron.
The solder I use is made in the USA by KISIR and is marked "44" Rosin Core SN63PB37(SB) #66/44 .020 and has a manufacture date of 06/11/2003. (i.e 63% tin, 37% lead 0.020" dia). Yes, it contains lead so use caution or get a non-lead version although I have been told it is more difficult to solder.
The flux I use is "No clean flux dispensing pen" CW8100 made by ITWChentronics in GA USA.
The solder braid is "gootwick" CP-1515 made by Taiyo Electric Ind Co Ltd in Japan. (1.5mm width)
I hope this helps. Remember, if the pcb is only small with few components, it does not cost a fortune to throw it if you ruin it. Use that pcb to practice. In fact, if you want, buy some cheap pcbs and some cheap ics to practice, do so.
So, give it a go! - what have you got to lose? - only a few bucks and a bit of pride (and only if you tell/show someone).
I think you could get by with even a cheap soldering iron.
And . . .
Solder wick is the one thing (beside solder and a soldering iron) that is really needed to solder SMT chips. Radio shack used to sell good solder wick but then the changed their supplier or something because their solder wick now is terrible (it still has the same item number the good stuff had). I like to tape the chip in place. I think it makes the job a lot easier. But easier with tape. Remove the tape after you have two corners tacked down. Don't stress about this. It wont kill the Prop if you heat the pins too.
Edit: Yes it will kill the Prop. The pads on the PCB are relatively fragile. I suggest doing it Clusso99's way. Go ahead an lay it on thick if you want. You'll clean it up later.
Edit: I suggest doing it Clusso99's way. Bridge two pins? All eleven pins on each side are usually bridged when I solder a Prop. I do too, but I bet just about any soldering iron would work. Yes, use good old lead solder. Your less likely to damage the chips since it doesn't have to get as hot as the lead free stuff. Flux pens are great but I don't think you really need one to solder a Prop. (I've never used one on the Props I've soldered.)
Edit: It works a lot better with flux. I suggest doing it Clusso99's way.
Agreed, good solder wick is important.
Yes, don't be a through-hole-only ninny! Heck the first SMT IC I soldered was a Prop. All of the Props (about a dozen) I've soldered worked. If I damaged the Props it was in one of those ways that don't show up for a long time.
Edit: I have since damaged Props while soldering. I suggest doing it Clusso99's way.
One other thing I might add to the list of equipment is a pair of reading glasses (if you're over forty).
Clusso99's post was great. I just thought he made it sound scarier than it really is to solder surface mount chips.
BTW There's a link to a SMT soldering tutorial (link) on the solder wick page I linked to.
Duane
For newbies, I would say the flux pen should be mandatory because it makes the job so much easier. While I can solder the prop chips with ease without the flux pen, I have been (professionally) soldering for more than 40 years. I have done quite a lot of smt work by hand and I find the 0.5mm pitch the hardest, and yet the 0.65mm are ok - not much difference in dimensions, but way easier to solder. It also helps if the pcb has been designed for hand soldering. The recommended pads for the prop have a slightly larger pad which makes it easier.
I have to disagree with Duane on the heat info. Heat is a problem if you overheat the chips. Just be careful and use common sense. If you rest the iron on the pins of the IC for any length of time you can damage the IC, or other components. Sometimes you can draw excess solder from the pin/pad by touching the iron at the bend in the leg of the IC, and stroking the iron out to the end of the pad.
I didn't require them when I was forty, but they have been with me for the past 15 years. Trouble is mine are multifocals for computer and elecrtonics. If I get up and walk around I have to be careful with them on as everything is out-of-focus. I use a magnifying glass to check some things out too. Gave my magi-lamp away when we moved onto the boat
I'll need to start using a flux pin when I solder Propeller chips.
I just wanted to let people to know you can do this stuff even if you don't have all the "right" equipment. I frequently hear people say "I'll need to get a better soldering iron" or "I need to get a hot air rework station" before they'll consider using surface mount chips. They're just not that hard to solder (at least the Prop isn't). The solder wick does the work for you. My Prop chips look like a mess after I've soldered all the pins. As I said before, usually all eleven pins are bridged on each side. The solder wick turns the hideous blobs of solder into neatly soldered pins.
If something is worth doing, it's worth doing wrong. Don't wait until you have all the yak fur you need before giving surface mount soldering a try.
I read these tutorials about SMT soldering before giving it a try myself.
I just reread parts of the tutorial. They agree with Cluso99 about using a relatively good soldering iron. The tutorial even says:
I'm going to dig out my $10 soldering iron (how'd he know it was from a freshman engineering kit?) and use it to solder a Prop or two just to prove you don't really need special equipment. The special equipment is great but don't let not having it be an excuse not try surface mount soldering.
My first TetraProp board will be soldered with my $10 soldering iron.
Duane
P.S. I don't recommend using the phrase: on a job application.
A few years ago Hakko copied Metcal's RF heating technology and got sued.
Robert
Thanks Steve.
Now I need to place an order to Digi-Key to populate the boards. I only have one unused Prop QFP right now. I'm sure I'll need other parts too.
Duane
People have ordered some full assemblies, but I'm short some parts - everyone knows about it.
I will have everything I need by Thrusday. Hopefully I can get the boards in the mail Friday afternoon.
Thanks.
--Steve
Hello Steve,
It looks like the part locations for the 4.7K resistors may have changed for this latest revision of the board. Following the traces I am sure I have them in the correct location but if you could confirm the locations and update the BOM that may help others assemble the board.
Also, the 10uf cap seems a bit odd as they seem to have the banded mark on the negative side. Many of the surface mount caps have the band on the positive side (instead of the negative side on all the other parts I was used to) It seems that these parts follow a convention that I was familair with on most other parts but different than on the Tantalum surface mount caps I've used. Can you confirm the correct orientation for this part?
Thank You,
Robert
Sorry. I thought I confirmed that I received mine. I have all the parts on hand, but I haven't had a chance to start soldering yet (I was out of town for a while and didn't want to explain my soldering iron at the airport
Oops. You're right about the 4.7K resistors - they are R1,2,5,6.
The spec on the 10uF Tantalum TR3A106K016C1700 shows the polarity band as the + terminal.
See bottom of page 2. http://www.vishay.com/docs/40080/tr3.pdf
I have assembled boards ready to fill orders and will be sending PayPal invoices & shipping today.
I'm making a quick user-guide and a web page for MicroCSource.com today.
Here's an updated parts list and a placement drawing.
Hello Steve,
Did the orientation of the 10uf caps change from the initial board layout? When I look at the pictures of your assembled board in post #58 it sure looks like the banded end of the 10uf cap goes to the negative side of the pad.
Robert
That explains it! Thanks for the clairification. If you happen to have any current pictures of an assembled version for the latest board that may help as a reference for others that build the board.
Now I can finish building the boards.
Robert
I removed all the rev A0 pictures from the thread so others don't get confused.
http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=470-045virtualkey65330000virtualkey749-470-045
I ordered some and will see how well they work.
Robert
The TetraProp page is here: http://www.microcsource.com/TetraProp/index.htm
A TetraProp Kit UserGuide is here: http://www.microcsource.com/TetraProp/UserGuide.htm
Hopefully I can add an SMT assembly guide later.
You may notice that forum people are getting a %30 discount on TetraProp boards
I don't have my shopping cart setup yet. Still working on that PayPal button.
*** Here's all I get.
The page you tried to access does not exist on this server. This page may not exist due to the following reasons:
Please use this one: http://www.microcsource.com/TetraProp/index.htm
You can also navigate there from www.microcsource.com
The links on post #118 also work.