OK I may be mixing this up but it seems that you fliped your DB9 plug Check to make sure your not using pin 1-4 instead of 2-5 as you should be. I noticed this by looking at what that green wire was connected too. It should be your DTR line connected to the Cap and a resister. I think you would be best to pull everything off the board and start over.
Just to add- Pin one of the DB 9 connecter is indicated by the square pad on the reverse side.
It is very hard to desolder all those componants, expecially with plated through holes. My advice is, if you are going to make another, to just buy a cheap board at radio shack or something and make it on that. Since the 9 pin connector will not connect to the board, you can just bend the four front pins forward since they are unused.
▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔ Toys are microcontroled.
Robots are microcontroled.
I am microcontrolled.
!!!!· I didn't know the DB-9 was set up that way!!!· In my schematic, it's shown differently...· Well, I won't have to desolder *that* much....· just the wires/components connecting to the row of pins...· Ah well...· Just a... minor setback.··· If it weren't for all of you posting your answers, I would be messing around with this until I died, or the Gadget Gangster Mother's Day contest was over!
Be very wary about the way the RS232 is wired. It is a "standard that has no standards" it is full of Tx and Rx but from who to who? I copied a MAX3232 cct and got P30 and P31 crossed over because of the way it was drawn. Tx and Rx on the computer side is confused (to me anyway) from Null this, Null that. I carry a whole series of convertion plugs and sockets for work, it is allways the other way round!
Surely just following the SerialToProp.pdf schematic diligently would work for a PC serial port connected DB9 F-M cable without a null-modem.
Good thing we didn't need 3 people to point out the connector pin reversal problem [noparse]:)[/noparse]
Go to Radio shack and pick up some Desoldering braid. It costs about 4 buck but will clean up the needed joints. For the wire jumpers just heat them up and pull them out. Other componets use the desolder braid. I use it all the time to rob componets off old circuit boards. I use a fine tip sharpie to draw the circuit out first on those boards. It helps me to keep things straight. Good luck with it.
Yeah, the RadioShack desoldering braid works wonders on your NES.··· Sadly, I used it all up when I, ah, 'deconstructed' my old radio.· So sad...· Well, I desoldered the parts connecting to the port, so I won't have to even think about desoldering the port, which would be a nightmare... ·· I will post if it works or not after this modification.
Uhhhh...· Help!··
Okay, I did the mod for it and just did a quick switcharoo for the parts connecting the rest of the circuit to the DB-9.· It still doesn't work!· I will post a pic in a moment so all of you can see what might be the problem.
My friggin computer became unruly right in the middle of my analysis and I had to reboot. Can you check the top half of the attached diagram against your board? I'm not sure why RX and TX appear to be connected wrong in the drawing; it may be that I misunderstood what you have because of the tediousness of the task.
I fully recommend you attempt to resolve this by comparing your work to the schematic and correcting the schematic and/or your assembly until they are equivalent to the Parallax drawing. I don't have time to do it.
Vaati,
From your pictures Posted Yesterday 5:39 PM (GMT -6)·...
Vss (BROWN) ---> connected to pin 10 (BOEn) <--- Sort of correct, it should also connect to pin 9 (VSS)
TX (Black) P30 ---> connected to pin 39 (P30) <--- This is correct
RX (Yellow) P31 ---> connected to pin 11 (RESn)
RES (BLUE) ---> connected to pin 40 (P31)
??? (RED) ---> connected to pin 2 (P1)
Note: - Your YELLOW and BLUE should be swapped
- I'm not sure what your RED is doing
▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔ Beau Schwabe
IC Layout Engineer
Parallax, Inc.
Well, I must admit; I set up the circuit in a very confusing manner...· The thing is, the transistor in the middle area of the PCB is the one connected to the cap...· But I did notice that the transistor closest to the empty space of the board (W,X,Y16) isn't connected to anything but the resistor from X-Y17.· I need to add a jumper from Y19 to Y15.· And, the black wire at AE2 is actually connected to ground on the boss board.· The red wire is not connected to pin 2 of the prop, but connected to 3.3v, as that is the driving voltage of the homebrew plug.
Did I miss anything?· I will dolder some more jumpers where they need to be and post a pic and the status of the prop plug.
Don't know if you've renamed as stated earlier, but the current topic name caught my eye. If everyone who had a problem with their prop posted 'PLEASE REPLY ASAP!!!-- Propeller Chip Peril!' our forum would be filled with them. Sometimes it can be hard to come up with a good topic name, but avoid all caps, avoid 'Help!', etc...
Your first problem was that your prop won't identify with a (can't remember what it's called) blah blah board, and the rs232 serial circuit. A name·containing atleast some of that would have been helpful.
Now, do you have a reason to think you'd fried the prop? If so, state it, otherwise stop fretting. If your regulator is kicking out 3.3V (even if it is getting hot), and ground is conencted properly, then chances are your prop is fine. Don't jump to conclusions so quickly.
Good Luck, I'm betting on the serial being the problem, but can't help you there.
Ummm... I am not that good with transistors... Can anyone tell if I might have put the transistors in the circuit incorrectly? for a reference, just look at the second image of my 4 posted pics. The transistor closest to you is the 2N3906, the others are the 3904's. I looked them both up on alldatasheet.com, and from what I understood from their pdfs, I have all the transistors backwards! Can anyone tell if they're in correctly or not?
Vaati I have the exact same board and did the exact same thing built my own serial interface from the schematic on parallax site. Here are some thoughts.
1: 13 volts is to high especially if its coming from a wall wart chances are good its even higher than you think.
2: Unless I can not see it you do not have a crystal installed on your gadget board (5MHZ) for the prop chip
the serial interface you are using if its the same as the parallax prop one will not work without a crystals to control the timing on the prop chip
The prop chip itself is pretty tough I have done some pretty big boners and have been amazed that it did not kill my prop chip of course that does not mean its impossible but I would check everything else first.
If you have checked all your power connections from ground and they are all right then I would do following lower your input voltage to around 9-10 add the clock and see what happens good luck
The crystal is the black thing above the Propeller chip in the picture. I actually used heat-shrink tubing for it so it wouldn't short out the power. Also, I think that I will just get the Propeller Plug instead of going through all this hassle with a deadline drawing nearer each passing day. One final question that I have directed to whom it may concern at Parallax is which shipping option is the fastest to an area such as mid-Ohio?
Thanks to all of you who have given advice on this topic. I hope that after the upcoming contest deadline, I will be able to work on this project in a less stressful fasion.
It's okay...· Also, does Parallax ship over the weekend?· I placed my order for the Propeller Plug about an hour ago...· I know that when I ordered my Propeller chip last Friday morning·via USPS priority, it arrived on Monday.· I selected·priority for the Prop Plug as well.· Do you know approximately when it might get here...?
Just one more straw grasp, are you using a "real" serial port, or via some USB? Old fashioned Comm 1 .. is usually best but modern computers or laptops do not fit them anymore.
I have two examples of the 3 transistor version ie on inverting DTR spike for reset, I have never tried the two transistor version, and one Max3232 type. I had to swap P30 and P31 around on that one to get it to acknoledge and program. I also have a FT232 chip to make a propplug buy have so far chickened out on making laser transfer pcbs for that pitch!
Also that there are no other programs on the PC that are already stealing comm1 (etc)
I'm using my ancient IBM Thinkpad for all things Parallax right now. So I am using a standard serial com port, with a serial cable connecting my circuit and the computer.
One thought I just had was on whether or not crystals are polarized... Are they polarized, and if so, which lead is which?
I'm building that two transistor doohickey on a breadboard to see if that's what I need.
No, crystals are not polarized. I seem to remember you had tried not using the external xtal/pll route a long time back anyway. The Elector cct I am using just adds one NPN transistor onto the reset chain. I am slighly confused as to why some seem to use it and some not, I would have thought that it would change the edge at which the prop restarts. I have used one after my Max3223 and it works and one is shown on the demo board cct within the usb to serial box.
So what other ways are there to connect the Propeller to the computer without·paying more than $10? ·Will that 2-transistor method work?· Also, I think from now on, unless I know exactly where to put stuff so it works, I'll just use breadboards instead of PCB's...· · Thanks.
I just read the Propeller datasheet pdf cover to cover, and I think I solved the problem!· The Tx of the propeller wasn't connected to the Rx, it was connected to the other Tx!· I hooked the Rx's the same way!· No matter what I mess up on, all my mistakes are just plain stupid!·
This time, I know I will get it right!· (At least I think I know I will...)
Comments
Just to add- Pin one of the DB 9 connecter is indicated by the square pad on the reverse side.
▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
Toys are microcontroled.
Robots are microcontroled.
I am microcontrolled.
Thanks again!
▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
3.1415926535897932384....
Thanfully damage seldom occurs.
Good thing we didn't need 3 people to point out the connector pin reversal problem [noparse]:)[/noparse]
▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
--Steve
Propalyzer: Propeller PC Logic Analyzer
http://forums.parallax.com/showthread.php?p=788230
Yeah, the RadioShack desoldering braid works wonders on your NES.·
▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
3.1415926535897932384....
Okay, I did the mod for it and just did a quick switcharoo for the parts connecting the rest of the circuit to the DB-9.· It still doesn't work!· I will post a pic in a moment so all of you can see what might be the problem.
Thanks again for all the tips and advice!
▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
3.1415926535897932384....
▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
3.1415926535897932384....
▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
--Steve
Propalyzer: Propeller PC Logic Analyzer
http://forums.parallax.com/showthread.php?p=788230
▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
3.1415926535897932384....
▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
3.1415926535897932384....
My friggin computer became unruly right in the middle of my analysis and I had to reboot. Can you check the top half of the attached diagram against your board? I'm not sure why RX and TX appear to be connected wrong in the drawing; it may be that I misunderstood what you have because of the tediousness of the task.
I fully recommend you attempt to resolve this by comparing your work to the schematic and correcting the schematic and/or your assembly until they are equivalent to the Parallax drawing. I don't have time to do it.
▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
--Steve
Propalyzer: Propeller PC Logic Analyzer
http://forums.parallax.com/showthread.php?p=788230
Post Edited (jazzed) : 4/24/2009 4:26:36 AM GMT
From your pictures Posted Yesterday 5:39 PM (GMT -6)·...
Vss (BROWN) ---> connected to pin 10 (BOEn) <--- Sort of correct, it should also connect to pin 9 (VSS) TX (Black) P30 ---> connected to pin 39 (P30) <--- This is correct RX (Yellow) P31 ---> connected to pin 11 (RESn) RES (BLUE) ---> connected to pin 40 (P31) ??? (RED) ---> connected to pin 2 (P1) Note: - Your YELLOW and BLUE should be swapped - I'm not sure what your RED is doing▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
Beau Schwabe
IC Layout Engineer
Parallax, Inc.
Did I miss anything?· I will dolder some more jumpers where they need to be and post a pic and the status of the prop plug.
▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
3.1415926535897932384....
Your first problem was that your prop won't identify with a (can't remember what it's called) blah blah board, and the rs232 serial circuit. A name·containing atleast some of that would have been helpful.
Now, do you have a reason to think you'd fried the prop? If so, state it, otherwise stop fretting. If your regulator is kicking out 3.3V (even if it is getting hot), and ground is conencted properly, then chances are your prop is fine. Don't jump to conclusions so quickly.
Good Luck, I'm betting on the serial being the problem, but can't help you there.
Thanks.
▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
3.1415926535897932384....
▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
--Steve
Propalyzer: Propeller PC Logic Analyzer
http://forums.parallax.com/showthread.php?p=788230
1: 13 volts is to high especially if its coming from a wall wart chances are good its even higher than you think.
2: Unless I can not see it you do not have a crystal installed on your gadget board (5MHZ) for the prop chip
the serial interface you are using if its the same as the parallax prop one will not work without a crystals to control the timing on the prop chip
The prop chip itself is pretty tough I have done some pretty big boners and have been amazed that it did not kill my prop chip of course that does not mean its impossible but I would check everything else first.
If you have checked all your power connections from ground and they are all right then I would do following lower your input voltage to around 9-10 add the clock and see what happens good luck
Thanks to all of you who have given advice on this topic. I hope that after the upcoming contest deadline, I will be able to work on this project in a less stressful fasion.
Thanks.
▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
3.1415926535897932384....
Call Jim Carey on Monday morning and he can sort it out for you. Sorry for the problems you are having.
Ken Gracey
Parallax, Inc.
Thanks.
▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
3.1415926535897932384....
Would it work for this, or is it the completely incorrect schematic?
Thanks.
▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
3.1415926535897932384....
I have two examples of the 3 transistor version ie on inverting DTR spike for reset, I have never tried the two transistor version, and one Max3232 type. I had to swap P30 and P31 around on that one to get it to acknoledge and program. I also have a FT232 chip to make a propplug buy have so far chickened out on making laser transfer pcbs for that pitch!
Also that there are no other programs on the PC that are already stealing comm1 (etc)
One thought I just had was on whether or not crystals are polarized... Are they polarized, and if so, which lead is which?
I'm building that two transistor doohickey on a breadboard to see if that's what I need.
Thanks.
▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
3.1415926535897932384....
·
Thanks.
▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
3.1415926535897932384626433832795028841971693993751058209749445923078164062
86208998628034825342117067982148086513282306647093844609550582231725359.....
This time, I know I will get it right!· (At least I think I know I will...)
▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
3.1415926535897932384626433832795028841971693993751058209749445923078164062
86208998628034825342117067982148086513282306647093844609550582231725359.....