A good alternative to TV monitor ?
mugur
Posts: 105
Hi, i would like to show you what i have managed to use as a tv-monitor.
The screen is 2.5" and it costs $10 + $5 shipping to continental US.
These are spare parts left from a big bunch of nightvision cameras, and he has many of them.
If anyone interested, PM and i will give full details. If an order reaches $50 he will shipp at his expences.
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images-team.ro
Post Edited (mugur) : 3/5/2010 10:48:11 AM GMT
The screen is 2.5" and it costs $10 + $5 shipping to continental US.
These are spare parts left from a big bunch of nightvision cameras, and he has many of them.
If anyone interested, PM and i will give full details. If an order reaches $50 he will shipp at his expences.
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images-team.ro
Post Edited (mugur) : 3/5/2010 10:48:11 AM GMT
Comments
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I should be typing in Spin now.
Coming soon. My open Propeller Project Pages and favorite links index.
P.S. All these screens are new, unused.
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images-team.ro
Post Edited (mugur) : 2/17/2010 9:41:37 AM GMT
I have a good amount of information to share about the LCD Controller and the LCD itself. There's a bit of soldering and work to make it work this way so you can't·completely consider it plug-n-play. However, it seems to be well within the ability of anyone who's half-handy.
They're cheap and plentiful and there's a person or two who can give advice on hooking them up if you need it.
They also have some other features that can be explored like the potential for RGB input and flipping the image horizontally and vertically as I recall. I've got a modest amount of knowledge about these and datasheets for components that are virtually identical. (I don't have the exact datasheets for the exact components.)
The soldering Mark is talking about are exactly 2. One for the 12V wire and one for the video signal. And eventually a 5K pot to control the contrast but it is not needed as you can see in the pictures.
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images-team.ro
DOZENS still available! (You can be sure I will edit this message to indicate when they are no longer available!)
I have dozens of·the Color LCD Display systems originally used for NiteMax night-vision cameras. (See attached photos) They're all·NEW but they're a few years old and they've been shuffled around and spent lots of time in storage.
I can sell them for $10 each plus the cost of shipping via Postal Service Priority Mail. $10 gets you one complete bundle of parts that includes the 2.5" Color LCD, an LCD Controller and the partial plastic housing with various bits and peices as·shown. You provide 12V DC and a Composite Video Signal and carefully figure out·how to hookup it up and the result is a tiny little video monitor.
I can ship ONE or TWO for $4.95 to any Zipcode in the USA. (ONE would then be $14.95 total and TWO would then be $24.95 total.) Additional items beyond two will be based on the actual postage between my Zipcode and yours. Buy FIVE or more and I'll pay for the postage myself. (FIVE would then be $50 total.)·Buy TEN or more and we can work out an ever bigger discount!
I can accept PayPal and I'm willing to work with you if you prefer another payment method. I can also provide references if you're not too sure about buying these from a complete stranger. I can also ship outside the United States but you'll need to work with me to determine the actual cost of shipping.·I can't guarantee I'll be able to ship them exactly "anywhere" but I'll do what I can to accommodate your request.·Additional Taxes or Duties are the responsibility of the buyer.
My personal policy is to stand behind anything I sell. If you're not completely satisfied, please let me know. I'll do whatever I can to·make sure you're·completely happy with your purchase including replacing anything you recieve defective or refunding your purchase·price·if you decide to return everything.
These are guaranteed to work when you get them and for at least 30 days. Beyond that there's no formal warranty but you should contact me anyway if you have questions, concerns or problems.·I'll do as much as I can to assure your complete satisfaction in a way that's fair for you and reasonable for me -- now or in the future.
Please send me a Private Message if you're interested.
If you have technical questions about these LCD Displays, please post them here so they can be answered publicly for the benefit of anyone else who may have similar questions.
- Mark
Post Edited (NiteMax Mark) : 3/3/2010 4:30:59 PM GMT
Thanks,
Jim
Post Edited (hover1) : 2/25/2010 3:42:54 PM GMT
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images-team.ro
i will run the graphics one and post the result.
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images-team.ro
Hopefully I have your attention now...
There's a couple of things everyone should be aware of to avoid trouble. (I have learned these from painful first-hand experience!)
1) HIGH VOLTAGE
The "High Voltage" decal you see in the attached photo is FOR REAL! The LCD uses a CCFL (Cold-Cathode Fluorescent Lamp) backlight which is·virtually just·a miniature fluorescent bulb. If you touch the Printed Circuit Board in the corner·near the "QC" or "OK" on the High Voltage Label (See the photo) you WILL get a shock!
The odds are good that you'll be okay. And, chances are, nothing will be damaged and nobody will get hurt. But, it WILL get your attention and you WILL tell yourself "...don't do that again!" If you're dripping wet or you're foolish enough to experiment with these kinds of things in the bathtub, I imagine the outcome might not be·as favorable.
The truth is that·it's actually pretty difficult to touch the Circuit Board in that·small little corner where there's High Voltage and everything else seems to be pretty well insulated, but it's still best to avoid handling the LCD Controller when power is applied. If you are brave (and stupid) like me, you'll handle it while its powered a bunch of times without any drama. Eventually you'll·forget what you're doing and·you'll grab the wrong corner without thinking and get a shock when you least expect it. Don't say I didn't warn you! The label is there for a good reason!
2) The POWER WIRES YOU SEE don't work like you think!
The RED and BLACK wires you see in the photo sure LOOK like power supply wires and you've got the right idea. However, if you study how they're hooked up in the circuit you'll find a couple interesting (and unfortunate) things.
For starters, they're wired ACROSS the switch which means that turning ON the switch will place a SHORT CIRCUIT across your Power Supply! At the very least it won't work and nothing·useful will happen. But, you might see smoke and you might ruin your power supply or you might not see anything at all. Of the things that MIGHT happen, the LCD turning "on" isn't one of them. In fact, those convenient looking Power Supply Wires aren't even connected in a way that can get power delivered to the LCD Controller AT ALL!
The best you can hope to do with the red and black Power Supply wires is to de-solder them from the switch and re-wire them in a way you can use them. In reality, you probably won't end up using those wires at all.
·· DANGER!
Post Edited (NiteMax Mark) : 2/25/2010 8:04:27 PM GMT
Do you have some data, PDF, txt file or scheme for the LCD monitors?
What is the model names and Nr?
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At the end, everything will became Electron...!
Unfortunately, I don't have exactly the datasheets for any of this stuff. Over time I have collected information from sources that is very similar and helpful when used carefully. I don't have a schematic for any of these things but I have some good clues.
For example, I've attached a data sheet for a 5.6" LCD that happens to use the exact LCD Controller. As long as you expect some of the differences the information is still valuable.
I have also·attached another datasheet for the LCD itself that is neraly identical to the one in the NiteMax. Again, the data sheet is not necessarly the exact one bit·is still very valuable if you·keep an eye out for potential·differences.
I also have data sheets for for some of the main chips on the LCD Controller Board. These show typical application circuits that are often the same as the LCD Controller and they have proven very helpful too. I don't expect to attach the IC data sheets unless there is lots of demand for them.
If someone wants to reverse-engineer one of these and publish a schematic based on the clues I've collected, I'm sure lots of people would be grateful.
Post Edited (NiteMax Mark) : 2/26/2010 2:14:44 AM GMT
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At the end, everything will became Electron...!
REMEMBER: The "Off/On" Switch·CAN NOT BE USED the way it is currently wired!
There's another message posted here with DANGER in big red letters explaining the unfortunate details of the "Off/On" Switch!
RCA Jack "Video Out" or is it Video In?
Inside the·(originally complete) NiteMax·camera·there had·been·a Video Camera Board that accepted 12v DC and created a Composite Video Signal. This·was then connected to the input of the LCD Controller Board. The RCA Video Jack you see·was connected between the two so that an external device can·intercept the video output from the CCD Camera Board·and display the image that the·LCD Controller did.
With the CCD Camera Board gone, you still have the RCA jack connected to the LCD Controller. Since the LCD Controller board has no clue where the video signal comes from, and the RCA Jack doesn't know anything about "in" or "out", you can connect your video signal here and it all works out fine. In this way, "Video Out" can now be used as "Video In" and it all works out perfectly!
"DC In 9V" or is it 12V DC?
Inside the·(originally complete) NiteMax·camera·there had·been·a Power Supply Board that boosted 9V DC up to 12V DC. With the Power Supply Board GONE in these, the "Off/On" Switch, Push Buttons and "DC In 9V" connection aren't used.
You could re-wire everything to make use of the "Off/On" Switch,·"Video Out"·Jack and even the "DC In 9V" connectors if you like! In the case of the "Video Out" connector and the "DC In 9V" you'll have to find a way to re-label them so they make sense.
"LCD", "Gain" and "IR" Buttons?
Inside the·(originally complete) NiteMax·camera·there had·been·a Power Supply Board with a digital potentiometer that adjusted the LCD Contrast based on pushes from the "LCD" Buttons. There was another Digital Potentiometer that adjusted the output of another Power Supply to vary the brightness of the original IR LEDs. As I recall, the "Gain" button did something to the Brightness input on the LCD Controller Board.
If you really wanted to be clever, you could find a way to make these buttons control the inputs to the LCD Controller Board again.·It seems like a lot of work for not much benefit.
Post Edited (NiteMax Mark) : 3/3/2010 4:35:40 PM GMT
Some of the first shipments have already reached Forum members including at least one International shipment!
I encourage everyone to post questions and comments here including the results of anything you've done with the displays. I'd love to see photos showing how you've put them to good use!
I encourage anyone to contact me if you have issues or concerns regarding the items you've received. I'm dead-serious when I say that my·first priority·is to be sure you're completely satisfied with your purchase.
While the response has NOT been overwhelming, there HAS been plenty of interest. It deserves to be said that this is just a hobby for me and not a full-time job but·I still·do my best to be very responsive to EVERYONE. I like to ship everything the SAME DAY as your order and (regretfully) the NEXT DAY if I'm busy at home or work or something.
If you·end up·waiting on me for more than 24 Hours for ANYTHING, please don't hesitate to drop me a note and see what the problem is. I promise I won't be offended and I won't complain that you're being impatient. In fact, a friendly reminder is the best way of making sure I don't lose track of you by accident.
- Mark
·
Thanks,
Jim
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images-team.ro
Jim
humanoido
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images-team.ro
Raf
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UC Berkeley '12 EECS
CalSol: UC Berkeley Solar Car
http://calsol.berkeley.edu
KJ6AWU
Post Edited (FlyingFishFinger) : 3/6/2010 5:39:05 AM GMT
Thanks for posting the pictures.
Looks like the demo fills the screen nicely. I know it's hard to take pictures of a TV signal, but they look OK.
Looks like I may have to get a few. The price is right.
Jim
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images-team.ro
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PG
I also don't know what "fast image switching" is. Are you talking about the response time as you might find for other LCD monitors?
·
In a desire to preserve the magic smoke, I'll ask the obvious questions here about getting this thing up & running as quickly as possible. Please advise if I have this right.
1) I can just feed composite video into the "Video Out" RCA jack?
2) +12V into pin 11 on JP1 (has a black wire coming off it)
3) Ground (-12v) into either pin 9 or 10 (each has a white wire coming off)?
17) 1080p signal into which pin? (yes, I'm joking...)
Thanks in advance,
erco
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·"If you build it, they will come."
- "Video Out" works·as Video In without modification.
- GND or GNDS is the +12V DC Return (which is not exactly the same as saying -12V DC)
There are lots of unfortunate wire colors! Please see the attached photo and it think it'll make things lots more clear.
QUICK START:
Carefully cut and label the correct two white wires and·connect +12V DC and Ground as shown in the attached photo. For convenience, plug in your video signal to the RCA Jack (not shown in the photo) and you're good to go. No other connections are necessary to get a working display!
A complete Data Sheet is attached as "PM-056K_board.pdf" on the first page of this thread. Page 5 is summarized below for reference...
JP1 (The large connector on the PCB in the attached photo, pin #1 is nearest to the bottom.)
1) HSYNC - Horizontal Syncroniztion OUTPUT
2) VSYNC - Vertical Synchronization OUTPUT
3) NPC - NTSC/PAL Mode Selection / Indicator (Automatic)
4) SW - Composite Video / RGB Selection INPUT
5) CVS - Composite Video Signal INPUT
6) Bin - Blue RGB Video INPUT
7) Rin - Red RGB Video INPUT
8) Gin - Green RGB Video·INPUT
9) GND - Ground
10) GNDS - Supply Ground (?)
11) Vin - +12V DC Supply INPUT
12) GNDS - Supply Ground (?)
13) COL - Color Adjustment INPUT
14) LR - Left / Right Orientation·(Flip) INPUT
15) UD - Up / Down Orientation (Flip) INPUT
(The following signals are available as solder connections adjacent to JP1·and they're mostly visible near the top-left corner of·the attached photo.)
PIC - Picture Sharpness INPUT
CNT - Contrast INPUT
BRT - Brightness INPUT
COL - Hue (Color)·INPUT
TIN - Tint INPUT
+5V - +5V Supply OUPUT
GND - Ground
Post Edited (NiteMax Mark) : 3/7/2010 7:56:27 AM GMT
I just received a set of these displays too. Very nice! It only took about 5 minutes to hook it up....
Just connect your video in to the RCA jack (labeled video out) and it works just fine. Nothing needed other than a new label.
For power you feed 12V into J1 pin 11. All the grounds were tied together on mine so I use pin 10 as the ground. Just pop out the two white wires from the connector that is hanging. Just to be safe you can use a meter to verify which one is connected to all the other grounds. To keep them from getting mixed up again I used a BLACK Sharpie marker to color the ground lead black.
So, just connect 12V and you have a very nice little display! According to my bench supply it was drawing about 200mA @ 12V. Had it connected to my hand wired Hydra and played a few games.
If you get #17 working let me know
Hope this helps,
Robert
I have full Nitemax cameras from Mark. When you disconect the CCD camera board, the "Video Out" becomes "Video IN" without any other modifications. You simply disconect the camera board and you have a video monitor. That is why what you get now is already "set" as Video IN, because there is no CCD board.
On one of my cameras i have a very small switch installed that simply cut the video signal coming from the CCD board, so, with a simple switch, i can transform my camera into a video monitor.
Great job guys, i am happy you find this usefull.
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images-team.ro
Post Edited (mugur) : 3/7/2010 9:37:57 AM GMT
So why didn't I order more? Mark ships free at 5 units, some kinda discount at 10. Surely at some quantity, they must be free.
Highly recommended, both·display and seller.
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·"If you build it, they will come."