erco said...
Bravo! These work great. Thanks for the cross-check on the pins & wires, Mark. I can count, really I can. I musta been tired or cross-eyed when I looked at it last night. Per you and Robert, these things fire up beautifully, just hooking up 12 volts (proper polarity, per Raf!) to the two white wires.
So why didn't I order more? Mark ships free at 5 units, some kinda discount at 10. Surely at some quantity, they must be free.
Highly recommended, both·display and seller.
Thank you!! Talk about spreading dangerous·rumors...
If the price goes down with quantity and there's a quantity where they start being free, the same reasoning says there's an even larger quantity where the price crosses through zero and I pay people to take them away.
Boy, that wouldn't be any fun at all and my Wife would be even less tolerant of the money I "waste" on hobbies.
I could probably start putting NiteMax Cameras together again and offering those for sale too just to cover my losses.
Seriously, I appreciate everyone who has (or will) order these displays. Please let me know if there's anything I can do to be sure you're happy with your purchase.
Gee I ordered mine yesterday or the day before I settled in and to be honest forgot about them thinking it would be a while ,, Mark I got them today Wow did you hand deliver them!! LOL Thank you and thanks guys for the easy start up I am working on mine as I type
Question do they do IR???? or is that just an input for a night vision camera? Mark do you have any of the cameras
Very cool mine work, guys does anyone else notice that if you hold in the gain control on either side it will brighten the screen ,, Would it be ok if I just jumped out the gain control so it always stays bright?
These were part if NiteMax cameras. The IR is on the front side and looks like this photo below.
The IR Buttons were used to adjust the IR illumination intensity.
I do have some parts to build more but I'm not sure how many of the parts still look like new and the condition of the batteries are unknown after sitting discharged so long.
These haven't been·manufactured in several years and there's places with units left that still charge a fortune for them. If you would like one, DON'T SPEND MORE THAN $50 for it because that's all I charge when I sell them. I see some on eBay right now for a bit more than $50 with shipping but they don't have the "Zoom" Button on them. Units with the Zoom Button are NiteMax Ultra models some are available in COLOR too.
If you·have a BROKEN one, I can help you get it working again for sure!
mikediv said...
...guys does anyone else notice that if you hold in the gain control on either side it will brighten the screen ,, Would it be ok if I just jumped out the gain control so it always stays bright?
There's a PDF file uploaded here on the first page of messages called "PM-056K board.pdf" that talks about those signals.
They recommend using a 5K Ohm Potentiometer between the 5v DC Output and Ground to form a variable voltage divider.
The pot's wiper gets fed in to the Contrast and/or Brightness connections. The datasheet also gives recommended voltages for all of the adjustment inputs.
I don't see any harm to pulling the signal all the way to ground if you like it that way.
Here is the picture I promised you. The display comes from a "Wharfedale" Portable DVD Player Model No: WH-P-DVD5.6
I have not been able to find much info on the display, was hoping one of you would know were to look.
I do not want to connect it to the nitemax driver board and then release the magic smoke, that would be awful!!!
Wow, it sure looks promising but I can't say for sure.
(1) The display has the same barcode and numbering format as the NiteMax displays. In this regard I think it was probably made by AU like the NiteMax LCD.
(2) The flixable cable looks like it has the correct number of wires and it looks like the correct size for the type of LCD we need.
The problem is that I can't determine the manufacturer's part number for the display you have. Even the barcode label with all the numbers leads me nowhere.
I've looked at lots of displays and none of them looked as close to correct to yours. The problem is that I can't recommend trying it because I just don't know for sure. All I can go on is the few clues here and that's not enough to be sure that trying will not hurt.
I wish I could be more helpful but some more clues will be necessary and it's hard to know without looking at signals with an oscilloscope or finding a datasheet. ·
Guys can anyone give me a copy of the PDF files or the pictures I have a couple of these and lost my data sheets all th elinks here are deade and I can not see any of the pictures I have been trying to get a copy of the data and pics for a while now with no luck,,
Thank you ,, Oh Nite do you have anymore of these???
Comments
If the price goes down with quantity and there's a quantity where they start being free, the same reasoning says there's an even larger quantity where the price crosses through zero and I pay people to take them away.
Boy, that wouldn't be any fun at all and my Wife would be even less tolerant of the money I "waste" on hobbies.
I could probably start putting NiteMax Cameras together again and offering those for sale too just to cover my losses.
Seriously, I appreciate everyone who has (or will) order these displays. Please let me know if there's anything I can do to be sure you're happy with your purchase.
Question do they do IR???? or is that just an input for a night vision camera? Mark do you have any of the cameras
Very cool mine work, guys does anyone else notice that if you hold in the gain control on either side it will brighten the screen ,, Would it be ok if I just jumped out the gain control so it always stays bright?
Post Edited (mikediv) : 3/24/2010 10:26:02 PM GMT
These were part if NiteMax cameras. The IR is on the front side and looks like this photo below.
The IR Buttons were used to adjust the IR illumination intensity.
I do have some parts to build more but I'm not sure how many of the parts still look like new and the condition of the batteries are unknown after sitting discharged so long.
These haven't been·manufactured in several years and there's places with units left that still charge a fortune for them. If you would like one, DON'T SPEND MORE THAN $50 for it because that's all I charge when I sell them. I see some on eBay right now for a bit more than $50 with shipping but they don't have the "Zoom" Button on them. Units with the Zoom Button are NiteMax Ultra models some are available in COLOR too.
If you·have a BROKEN one, I can help you get it working again for sure!
They recommend using a 5K Ohm Potentiometer between the 5v DC Output and Ground to form a variable voltage divider.
The pot's wiper gets fed in to the Contrast and/or Brightness connections. The datasheet also gives recommended voltages for all of the adjustment inputs.
I don't see any harm to pulling the signal all the way to ground if you like it that way.
Here is the picture I promised you. The display comes from a "Wharfedale" Portable DVD Player Model No: WH-P-DVD5.6
I have not been able to find much info on the display, was hoping one of you would know were to look.
I do not want to connect it to the nitemax driver board and then release the magic smoke, that would be awful!!!
▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
Why didn't I think of THAT!!!!
(1) The display has the same barcode and numbering format as the NiteMax displays. In this regard I think it was probably made by AU like the NiteMax LCD.
(2) The flixable cable looks like it has the correct number of wires and it looks like the correct size for the type of LCD we need.
The problem is that I can't determine the manufacturer's part number for the display you have. Even the barcode label with all the numbers leads me nowhere.
I've looked at lots of displays and none of them looked as close to correct to yours. The problem is that I can't recommend trying it because I just don't know for sure. All I can go on is the few clues here and that's not enough to be sure that trying will not hurt.
I wish I could be more helpful but some more clues will be necessary and it's hard to know without looking at signals with an oscilloscope or finding a datasheet.
·
Thank you ,, Oh Nite do you have anymore of these???