I did some research of some loose ends today on chatgpt and discovered that my .1mm x 4mm x 60mm sections of nickel strip on my bldc motor controllers that run from the battery to the motor controller mosfets and from the mosfets out to the motor are too high in resistance and at 30a they would within a few seconds get so hot that they would desolder my low temperature solder paste. So to solve this I will be placing two side by side solder wick braids hugging the underside of the nickel strips which will lower resistance so much that temperature will stop being an issue. They will be a combined .1mm x 4mm x 60mm. Then on future mosfets for this portion I will just use the solder wick braids for this section and not use nickel strips at all because they add too much resistance under this high of amp flow. The 2430 BLDC motors are rated to 25a continuous so my conduit has to also handle that easily without overheating.
Another really cool discovery I made today was on the topic of measuring current. I'd been putting this off till now but finally got around to deep diving it with chatgpt and discovered something shocking. So basically it was saying to use a shunt resistor inline with the ground side running from the motor controller to the battery. All the current of the motor controller (30a on the high end) will pass through this resistor as its only path. The special thing about a shunt resistor is that its resistance is so low that it doesn't affect voltage or amps a whole lot. I asked chatgpt if I can use nickel strips as my shunt resistor since a smd shunt resistor it said would overheat fast at 30a. It said yes! So I'll be using a .1mm x 4mm x 30mm section of nickel strip as part of my wire run going from the motor controller back to the battery on the ground side. This will act as my homemade shunt resistor. Now the way the arduino will read the amount of current is the analogue input pin will feed into the upstream side (closest to motor controller) of the shunt resistor section of nickel strip and the arduino ground will attach to the downstream side of this nickel strip shunt resistor. It will measure the tiny amount of voltage drop that occurs on account of the shunt resistor's resistance. What is really cool is that the voltage drop changes at this resistance and amp level are read granularly enough by the Arduino analogue input pins that I don't even need to amplify them to read them in meaningfully. Some things like strain gauges provide such tiny resistance changes that you have to use a OP AMP amplifier to be able to read the changes in with your analogue input pin of your arduino to detect them meaningfully but in this case, the resistance changes are large enough and the analogue input pins are granular enough to be able to read them in without any amplification. This means reading in the current for my motor controllers requires ZERO components! It's literally just nickel strip which I already had for the battery tab making and some jumper wire or w/e to take in the readings and that's it! No parts to buy. I had bought some hall effect based current sensor kits and they are not needed at all. I wasted my money on them in the past because I did not know about this shunt resistor option at all at the time. Had I known I would have never bought hall effect based sensor kits - a waste of money. Not to mention they were relatively huge whereas this takes up like practically zero space to measure a shunt resistor section of conduit between the battery and motor controller. So it's awesome news!
Note: the current sensing is meant to tell my control system anytime a new unexpected load has hit the motor so it can slow down the flow rate of electric to the motor to prevent burning out something for example or it can also detect any kind of snags or w/e anything getting stuck. It can also help monitor amp flow for the sake of holding the motor in place with stall current kept low enough to prevent overheating etc. It can also act as collision detection if trying to monitor its interactions with its environment and know if something has hit something - which is insanely useful for situational awareness. So it's extremely useful and basically not even optional frankly. To now know that adding this feature is free and super easy to implement and will take up practically ZERO extra space is very exciting to me.
Note: my diy shunt resistor (.1mm x 4mm x 30mm section of nickel strip) will have a .005 ohm resistance which is pretty much perfect for my use case it seems (unproven but chatgpt sounds sure of it). It will enable me to monitor the range of 5a to 30a and detect a change in amperage with like 1a granularity.
I did some research of some loose ends today on chatgpt and discovered that my .1mm x 4mm x 60mm sections of nickel strip on my bldc motor controllers that run from the battery to the motor controller mosfets and from the mosfets out to the motor are too high in resistance and at 30a they would within a few seconds get so hot that they would desolder my low temperature solder paste. So to solve this I will be placing two side by side solder wick braids hugging the underside of the nickel strips which will lower resistance so much that temperature will stop being an issue. They will be a combined .1mm x 4mm x 60mm. Then on future mosfets for this portion I will just use the solder wick braids for this section and not use nickel strips at all because they add too much resistance under this high of amp flow. The 2430 BLDC motors are rated to 25a continuous so my conduit has to also handle that easily without overheating.
Another really cool discovery I made today was on the topic of measuring current. I'd been putting this off till now but finally got around to deep diving it with chatgpt and discovered something shocking. So basically it was saying to use a shunt resistor inline with the ground side running from the motor controller to the battery. All the current of the motor controller (30a on the high end) will pass through this resistor as its only path. The special thing about a shunt resistor is that its resistance is so low that it doesn't affect voltage or amps a whole lot. I asked chatgpt if I can use nickel strips as my shunt resistor since a smd shunt resistor it said would overheat fast at 30a. It said yes! So I'll be using a .1mm x 4mm x 30mm section of nickel strip as part of my wire run going from the motor controller back to the battery on the ground side. This will act as my homemade shunt resistor. Now the way the arduino will read the amount of current is the analogue input pin will feed into the upstream side (closest to motor controller) of the shunt resistor section of nickel strip and the arduino ground will attach to the downstream side of this nickel strip shunt resistor. It will measure the tiny amount of voltage drop that occurs on account of the shunt resistor's resistance. What is really cool is that the voltage drop changes at this resistance and amp level are read granularly enough by the Arduino analogue input pins that I don't even need to amplify them to read them in meaningfully. Some things like strain gauges provide such tiny resistance changes that you have to use a OP AMP amplifier to be able to read the changes in with your analogue input pin of your arduino to detect them meaningfully but in this case, the resistance changes are large enough and the analogue input pins are granular enough to be able to read them in without any amplification. This means reading in the current for my motor controllers requires ZERO components! It's literally just nickel strip which I already had for the battery tab making and some jumper wire or w/e to take in the readings and that's it! No parts to buy. I had bought some hall effect based current sensor kits and they are not needed at all. I wasted my money on them in the past because I did not know about this shunt resistor option at all at the time. Had I known I would have never bought hall effect based sensor kits - a waste of money. Not to mention they were relatively huge whereas this takes up like practically zero space to measure a shunt resistor section of conduit between the battery and motor controller. So it's awesome news!
Note: the current sensing is meant to tell my control system anytime a new unexpected load has hit the motor so it can slow down the flow rate of electric to the motor to prevent burning out something for example or it can also detect any kind of snags or w/e anything getting stuck. It can also help monitor amp flow for the sake of holding the motor in place with stall current kept low enough to prevent overheating etc. It can also act as collision detection if trying to monitor its interactions with its environment and know if something has hit something - which is insanely useful for situational awareness. So it's extremely useful and basically not even optional frankly. To now know that adding this feature is free and super easy to implement and will take up practically ZERO extra space is very exciting to me.
Note: my diy shunt resistor (.1mm x 4mm x 30mm section of nickel strip) will have a .005 ohm resistance which is pretty much perfect for my use case it seems (unproven but chatgpt sounds sure of it). It will enable me to monitor the range of 5a to 30a and detect a change in amperage with like 1a granularity.
I used my jumbo Weller W100P soldering iron to attach my 6 solder wick braids to the back of the highside mosfet today and it attached instantly without a hitch. I used low temp solder paste liberally between the two on both surfaces then with my left hand smashed then together with the tip of a xacto knife pressed down onto the solder wick braids from the back. Then I brought in the giant soldering iron and it liquefied the solder in about 1 second despite all that metal involved because it holds such a massive amount of thermal energy that it can deliver on demand very quickly. Such a easier time than trying to do bigger soldering jobs with a micro tip regular soldering iron which often ends with cold joints and stuff. Also since the liquefication went so fast nothing nearby desoldered which is a huge plus.
Next up: add the solder wick braids to the underside of nickel strips to lessen resistance there and then insulate this highside switch assembly and install against motor and start finalizing wire run plans. Then I can rinse repeat this for the lowside switch assembly. Then I'll have one of the 3 half bridges done for the motor controller.
So it hit me that having these braided solder wick wires live all the way to the water cooled pipe distal attachment point is not necessary. And could cause some EMI or noise related issues that is avoidable if I do the following: I can simply cut them off 1/2" from the mosfet, stick thermal tape on one face of the cut off stubs, then stick the rest of the braided solder wick wire run against that thermal tape, then wrap this joint tightly with electrical tape. Finally we then electrically insulate the braided solder wick that is live but leave the braided solder wick section that is now no longer live completely exposed on the duration of its 3"-4" long run from near the mosfet to the water cooled pipe. This way we have electrical isolation near to the mosfet, no antenna effect, no need for window screens now, and no live wires hanging out that aren't properly insulated. Thermal conductivity is reduced negligibly with this solution. This should be trivial to implement as well. It's the perfect solution here and very fast to implement. It may even be slightly less work than dealing with window screens would have been.
Well I tested printing directly onto Pyralux copper and it was a massive failure. Not even one spec of ink stayed on it and the print came out a inch off the location of the copper. Chatgpt said this is because copper can't hold a electro static charge long enough to take ink onto itself or w/e. Ah well I can fall back to the method I already used successfully.
On that note, I realized printing my blue circuit is bad since a black and white printer won't print as densely and darkly a blue thing as it would a black thing so I have to make my circuit black before printing it. Also I should set my dpi to 600 dpi instead of 1200dpi which will create denser thicker prints for better transfer. Also I should select label paper instead of heavy paper which will work better. Also using Lumicolor Straedler pen is not good as it can be undercut easily supposedly. Better to use oil based marker instead. So I ordered that in 0.3mm tip. These are all improvements chatgpt suggested and I plan to use when printing onto the pcb transfer paper and hand touching those up if needed. I'm getting ready to make a bunch of flex pcbs for finishing this motor controller. I already started doing it.
Another disaster happened to me as well: my highside circuit I just soldered the solder wick wire onto, when I was analyzing it closely on the front I noticed that excess solder from the drain side of it oozed and dripped toward the front side of it and attached to the gate pin! I heated up that attachment point from the front side and my capacitor and resistor from gate to source both came off from the heat! Anyways I heated it up to remove that short circuit and used a xacto knife to wedge between the gate pin and back of mosfet's drain pad which had a solder bridge. I got through the bridge successfully but now have to redo the gate to source resistor and capacitor. Ugh! Two steps forward one step back. Then while inspecting and cleaning everything I moved the control circuitry a bit too much and it broke off for the 3rd time! So that has to be done again. This time I'm using flat flex for it. I've had it with the non flat flex variant breaking. The flat flex is way more solid mechanically. So that's a redo needed. Ugh.
Then to top it all off, the solder wick braids recent idea I had to electrically isolate their run near to the mosfet so that they aren't live for very long - which had to do with wanting to eliminate any short circuit risks in their longer run as well as remove any potential for antenna affects - yeah... well after cutting them all in half to do this transition idea, as I was doing it, I realized the surface area where the hand-off takes place between one section of solder wick braid and onto the next seems very small to me (2mm wide by 6mm long) and it seemed to me that the passage of heat across this tiny bridge of thermal tape might be severely compromised and would depend on how tight I made the squeeze of the two pieces of solder wick braid together as well. And I'm not sure I can clamp it tight enough with just tape wrapping it firmly. And if it gets quite hot I'm concerned electrical tape will get gooey and come loose over time and not hold it well. I'm not sure how tight kapton can wrap things I've never used it before so I'm inexperienced with using it and trusting it is hard without experience working with it. This all cumulatively gave me enough doubt that I said heck with it, I'm going to revert to the former plan to just run it live over to the water cooled pipe 3-4" away and use the thermal tape at that junction point where it wraps the pipe. This ensures alot of metal volume is directly tied to the mosfet which means more heat sinking directly with little risk of trapping heat near mosfet - which could happen if my thermal tape junction of copper braid to copper braid were to fail for example by being pulled apart by accident for any reason. Too much risk there IMO. And the risk of a short on account of live wiring it for 3-4" with the live wire sheathed in window screen to emit heat freely but not touch anything I feel is low enough risk IMO. So whatever route I choose has tradeoffs and I feel reverting to my former plan is more robust and foolproof thermally with some minor electrical risks that are mitigated by fuses and careful execution in general. So yeah I had to solder the cut pieces of solder wick braid back together again which was another pain.
Note: the next time I solder the heatsink braids onto the drain I plan to use less solder paste so it doesn't ooze and drop forward onto the front circuitry on the front face of the mosfet by accident. I also plan to insulate the front side's circuitry beforehand so even if solder did ooze that way the insulation barrier would prevent short circuits and make the oozing no big deal in theory.
So yeah it was a tough session but I learned alot from the mistakes etc.
Comments
I did some research of some loose ends today on chatgpt and discovered that my .1mm x 4mm x 60mm sections of nickel strip on my bldc motor controllers that run from the battery to the motor controller mosfets and from the mosfets out to the motor are too high in resistance and at 30a they would within a few seconds get so hot that they would desolder my low temperature solder paste. So to solve this I will be placing two side by side solder wick braids hugging the underside of the nickel strips which will lower resistance so much that temperature will stop being an issue. They will be a combined .1mm x 4mm x 60mm. Then on future mosfets for this portion I will just use the solder wick braids for this section and not use nickel strips at all because they add too much resistance under this high of amp flow. The 2430 BLDC motors are rated to 25a continuous so my conduit has to also handle that easily without overheating.
Another really cool discovery I made today was on the topic of measuring current. I'd been putting this off till now but finally got around to deep diving it with chatgpt and discovered something shocking. So basically it was saying to use a shunt resistor inline with the ground side running from the motor controller to the battery. All the current of the motor controller (30a on the high end) will pass through this resistor as its only path. The special thing about a shunt resistor is that its resistance is so low that it doesn't affect voltage or amps a whole lot. I asked chatgpt if I can use nickel strips as my shunt resistor since a smd shunt resistor it said would overheat fast at 30a. It said yes! So I'll be using a .1mm x 4mm x 30mm section of nickel strip as part of my wire run going from the motor controller back to the battery on the ground side. This will act as my homemade shunt resistor. Now the way the arduino will read the amount of current is the analogue input pin will feed into the upstream side (closest to motor controller) of the shunt resistor section of nickel strip and the arduino ground will attach to the downstream side of this nickel strip shunt resistor. It will measure the tiny amount of voltage drop that occurs on account of the shunt resistor's resistance. What is really cool is that the voltage drop changes at this resistance and amp level are read granularly enough by the Arduino analogue input pins that I don't even need to amplify them to read them in meaningfully. Some things like strain gauges provide such tiny resistance changes that you have to use a OP AMP amplifier to be able to read the changes in with your analogue input pin of your arduino to detect them meaningfully but in this case, the resistance changes are large enough and the analogue input pins are granular enough to be able to read them in without any amplification. This means reading in the current for my motor controllers requires ZERO components! It's literally just nickel strip which I already had for the battery tab making and some jumper wire or w/e to take in the readings and that's it! No parts to buy. I had bought some hall effect based current sensor kits and they are not needed at all. I wasted my money on them in the past because I did not know about this shunt resistor option at all at the time. Had I known I would have never bought hall effect based sensor kits - a waste of money. Not to mention they were relatively huge whereas this takes up like practically zero space to measure a shunt resistor section of conduit between the battery and motor controller. So it's awesome news!
Note: the current sensing is meant to tell my control system anytime a new unexpected load has hit the motor so it can slow down the flow rate of electric to the motor to prevent burning out something for example or it can also detect any kind of snags or w/e anything getting stuck. It can also help monitor amp flow for the sake of holding the motor in place with stall current kept low enough to prevent overheating etc. It can also act as collision detection if trying to monitor its interactions with its environment and know if something has hit something - which is insanely useful for situational awareness. So it's extremely useful and basically not even optional frankly. To now know that adding this feature is free and super easy to implement and will take up practically ZERO extra space is very exciting to me.
Note: my diy shunt resistor (.1mm x 4mm x 30mm section of nickel strip) will have a .005 ohm resistance which is pretty much perfect for my use case it seems (unproven but chatgpt sounds sure of it). It will enable me to monitor the range of 5a to 30a and detect a change in amperage with like 1a granularity.
I did some research of some loose ends today on chatgpt and discovered that my .1mm x 4mm x 60mm sections of nickel strip on my bldc motor controllers that run from the battery to the motor controller mosfets and from the mosfets out to the motor are too high in resistance and at 30a they would within a few seconds get so hot that they would desolder my low temperature solder paste. So to solve this I will be placing two side by side solder wick braids hugging the underside of the nickel strips which will lower resistance so much that temperature will stop being an issue. They will be a combined .1mm x 4mm x 60mm. Then on future mosfets for this portion I will just use the solder wick braids for this section and not use nickel strips at all because they add too much resistance under this high of amp flow. The 2430 BLDC motors are rated to 25a continuous so my conduit has to also handle that easily without overheating.
Another really cool discovery I made today was on the topic of measuring current. I'd been putting this off till now but finally got around to deep diving it with chatgpt and discovered something shocking. So basically it was saying to use a shunt resistor inline with the ground side running from the motor controller to the battery. All the current of the motor controller (30a on the high end) will pass through this resistor as its only path. The special thing about a shunt resistor is that its resistance is so low that it doesn't affect voltage or amps a whole lot. I asked chatgpt if I can use nickel strips as my shunt resistor since a smd shunt resistor it said would overheat fast at 30a. It said yes! So I'll be using a .1mm x 4mm x 30mm section of nickel strip as part of my wire run going from the motor controller back to the battery on the ground side. This will act as my homemade shunt resistor. Now the way the arduino will read the amount of current is the analogue input pin will feed into the upstream side (closest to motor controller) of the shunt resistor section of nickel strip and the arduino ground will attach to the downstream side of this nickel strip shunt resistor. It will measure the tiny amount of voltage drop that occurs on account of the shunt resistor's resistance. What is really cool is that the voltage drop changes at this resistance and amp level are read granularly enough by the Arduino analogue input pins that I don't even need to amplify them to read them in meaningfully. Some things like strain gauges provide such tiny resistance changes that you have to use a OP AMP amplifier to be able to read the changes in with your analogue input pin of your arduino to detect them meaningfully but in this case, the resistance changes are large enough and the analogue input pins are granular enough to be able to read them in without any amplification. This means reading in the current for my motor controllers requires ZERO components! It's literally just nickel strip which I already had for the battery tab making and some jumper wire or w/e to take in the readings and that's it! No parts to buy. I had bought some hall effect based current sensor kits and they are not needed at all. I wasted my money on them in the past because I did not know about this shunt resistor option at all at the time. Had I known I would have never bought hall effect based sensor kits - a waste of money. Not to mention they were relatively huge whereas this takes up like practically zero space to measure a shunt resistor section of conduit between the battery and motor controller. So it's awesome news!
Note: the current sensing is meant to tell my control system anytime a new unexpected load has hit the motor so it can slow down the flow rate of electric to the motor to prevent burning out something for example or it can also detect any kind of snags or w/e anything getting stuck. It can also help monitor amp flow for the sake of holding the motor in place with stall current kept low enough to prevent overheating etc. It can also act as collision detection if trying to monitor its interactions with its environment and know if something has hit something - which is insanely useful for situational awareness. So it's extremely useful and basically not even optional frankly. To now know that adding this feature is free and super easy to implement and will take up practically ZERO extra space is very exciting to me.
Note: my diy shunt resistor (.1mm x 4mm x 30mm section of nickel strip) will have a .005 ohm resistance which is pretty much perfect for my use case it seems (unproven but chatgpt sounds sure of it). It will enable me to monitor the range of 5a to 30a and detect a change in amperage with like 1a granularity.
I used my jumbo Weller W100P soldering iron to attach my 6 solder wick braids to the back of the highside mosfet today and it attached instantly without a hitch. I used low temp solder paste liberally between the two on both surfaces then with my left hand smashed then together with the tip of a xacto knife pressed down onto the solder wick braids from the back. Then I brought in the giant soldering iron and it liquefied the solder in about 1 second despite all that metal involved because it holds such a massive amount of thermal energy that it can deliver on demand very quickly. Such a easier time than trying to do bigger soldering jobs with a micro tip regular soldering iron which often ends with cold joints and stuff. Also since the liquefication went so fast nothing nearby desoldered which is a huge plus.
Next up: add the solder wick braids to the underside of nickel strips to lessen resistance there and then insulate this highside switch assembly and install against motor and start finalizing wire run plans. Then I can rinse repeat this for the lowside switch assembly. Then I'll have one of the 3 half bridges done for the motor controller.
So it hit me that having these braided solder wick wires live all the way to the water cooled pipe distal attachment point is not necessary. And could cause some EMI or noise related issues that is avoidable if I do the following: I can simply cut them off 1/2" from the mosfet, stick thermal tape on one face of the cut off stubs, then stick the rest of the braided solder wick wire run against that thermal tape, then wrap this joint tightly with electrical tape. Finally we then electrically insulate the braided solder wick that is live but leave the braided solder wick section that is now no longer live completely exposed on the duration of its 3"-4" long run from near the mosfet to the water cooled pipe. This way we have electrical isolation near to the mosfet, no antenna effect, no need for window screens now, and no live wires hanging out that aren't properly insulated. Thermal conductivity is reduced negligibly with this solution. This should be trivial to implement as well. It's the perfect solution here and very fast to implement. It may even be slightly less work than dealing with window screens would have been.
Well I tested printing directly onto Pyralux copper and it was a massive failure. Not even one spec of ink stayed on it and the print came out a inch off the location of the copper. Chatgpt said this is because copper can't hold a electro static charge long enough to take ink onto itself or w/e. Ah well I can fall back to the method I already used successfully.
On that note, I realized printing my blue circuit is bad since a black and white printer won't print as densely and darkly a blue thing as it would a black thing so I have to make my circuit black before printing it. Also I should set my dpi to 600 dpi instead of 1200dpi which will create denser thicker prints for better transfer. Also I should select label paper instead of heavy paper which will work better. Also using Lumicolor Straedler pen is not good as it can be undercut easily supposedly. Better to use oil based marker instead. So I ordered that in 0.3mm tip. These are all improvements chatgpt suggested and I plan to use when printing onto the pcb transfer paper and hand touching those up if needed. I'm getting ready to make a bunch of flex pcbs for finishing this motor controller. I already started doing it.
Another disaster happened to me as well: my highside circuit I just soldered the solder wick wire onto, when I was analyzing it closely on the front I noticed that excess solder from the drain side of it oozed and dripped toward the front side of it and attached to the gate pin! I heated up that attachment point from the front side and my capacitor and resistor from gate to source both came off from the heat! Anyways I heated it up to remove that short circuit and used a xacto knife to wedge between the gate pin and back of mosfet's drain pad which had a solder bridge. I got through the bridge successfully but now have to redo the gate to source resistor and capacitor. Ugh! Two steps forward one step back. Then while inspecting and cleaning everything I moved the control circuitry a bit too much and it broke off for the 3rd time! So that has to be done again. This time I'm using flat flex for it. I've had it with the non flat flex variant breaking. The flat flex is way more solid mechanically. So that's a redo needed. Ugh.
Then to top it all off, the solder wick braids recent idea I had to electrically isolate their run near to the mosfet so that they aren't live for very long - which had to do with wanting to eliminate any short circuit risks in their longer run as well as remove any potential for antenna affects - yeah... well after cutting them all in half to do this transition idea, as I was doing it, I realized the surface area where the hand-off takes place between one section of solder wick braid and onto the next seems very small to me (2mm wide by 6mm long) and it seemed to me that the passage of heat across this tiny bridge of thermal tape might be severely compromised and would depend on how tight I made the squeeze of the two pieces of solder wick braid together as well. And I'm not sure I can clamp it tight enough with just tape wrapping it firmly. And if it gets quite hot I'm concerned electrical tape will get gooey and come loose over time and not hold it well. I'm not sure how tight kapton can wrap things I've never used it before so I'm inexperienced with using it and trusting it is hard without experience working with it. This all cumulatively gave me enough doubt that I said heck with it, I'm going to revert to the former plan to just run it live over to the water cooled pipe 3-4" away and use the thermal tape at that junction point where it wraps the pipe. This ensures alot of metal volume is directly tied to the mosfet which means more heat sinking directly with little risk of trapping heat near mosfet - which could happen if my thermal tape junction of copper braid to copper braid were to fail for example by being pulled apart by accident for any reason. Too much risk there IMO. And the risk of a short on account of live wiring it for 3-4" with the live wire sheathed in window screen to emit heat freely but not touch anything I feel is low enough risk IMO. So whatever route I choose has tradeoffs and I feel reverting to my former plan is more robust and foolproof thermally with some minor electrical risks that are mitigated by fuses and careful execution in general. So yeah I had to solder the cut pieces of solder wick braid back together again which was another pain.
Note: the next time I solder the heatsink braids onto the drain I plan to use less solder paste so it doesn't ooze and drop forward onto the front circuitry on the front face of the mosfet by accident. I also plan to insulate the front side's circuitry beforehand so even if solder did ooze that way the insulation barrier would prevent short circuits and make the oozing no big deal in theory.
So yeah it was a tough session but I learned alot from the mistakes etc.