IR Receiver Question

Comments

• Mike Green Posts: 23,101

  2013-07-11 12:12 edited 2013-07-11 12:12

  No. Read the datasheet. They specify a minimum operating voltage ... 4.7V. I'd believe them.
• NWCCTV Posts: 3,629

  2013-07-11 13:23 edited 2013-07-11 13:23

  Thanks Mike. It was worth a try!!! I guess it's time to break out the DC to DC drop down converters that @erco convinced me to buy!!!
• erco Posts: 20,261

  2013-07-11 18:14 edited 2013-07-11 18:14

  NWCCTV wrote: »

  I guess it's time to break out the DC to DC drop down converters that @erco convinced me to buy!!!

  
  Or this 2.7V IR receiver which is also continuous signal acceptable. Fixed gain, sensitive.
  
  Parallax should consider stocking these. Very useful IMO. Allows IR detection & tracking.
  
  http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Vishay-Semiconductors/TSOP4038/?qs=oO6ELfDJL3fM5etQKIfesw==
  
  http://www.robotroom.com/PNA4602M-Replacement-1.html
• NWCCTV Posts: 3,629

  2013-07-11 19:07 edited 2013-07-11 19:07

  @erco, I am trying to work with what is on hand. However, I think I will order some of those just to have on hand. The Dc to DC drop down converter is nice but takes up more real estate than I would like for the IR receiver. I will get some ordered for the final assembly of my Wild Thumper but for now I will make do with what I have just so I can get him going. Need to try and make him do a figure 8 here soon!!!
• Phil Pilgrim (PhiPi) Posts: 23,514

  2013-07-11 20:53 edited 2013-07-11 20:53

  If you have a spare Prop pin, you could use it to drive a voltage doubler:
  
  
  
  With the above circuit, I was able to generate 5V @10 mA. I would recommend adding a 5.1V zener in parallel with the output, though, just to eliminate the possibility of over-voltage.
  
  -Phil

  

  

  v_doubler.gif

  366 x 220 - 1K

  v_doubler.gif 1.5K
• NWCCTV Posts: 3,629

  2013-07-13 20:24 edited 2013-07-13 20:24

  Thanks Phil. Like I said, I am trying to use what is on hand. The DC to DC voltage converters seem to work great. My main concern with using them was whether or not the Out voltage would drop when the In voltage from the source dropped. When testing on my bench top power supply they held a steady 5.2V until the input dropped to about 5.8V and then started to go down.
• PJAllen Banned Posts: 5,065

  2013-07-14 10:35 edited 2013-07-14 10:35

  NWCCTV wrote: »

  Like I said, I am trying to use what is on hand.

  
  Well, what have you got?
  
  And what's the source for the "3V", a couple of "C" batteries?
• Phil Pilgrim (PhiPi) Posts: 23,514

  2013-07-14 10:47 edited 2013-07-14 10:47

  PJ Allen wrote:

  Well, what have you got?

  Yeah, I was wondering that, too. Okay, you might not have the Schottky diodes. But you could still make a voltage tripler and use regular diodes. Surely, you have diodes and caps, right?
  
  -Phil
• NWCCTV Posts: 3,629

  2013-07-14 11:13 edited 2013-07-14 11:13

  I have the Dc to DC converter which is working just fine. The source voltage is a 7.2V RC battery. Using that to power my prop board. I am running from VIN to the DC converter and dropping that to the 5V source I need. It is a Prop Project board. Yes, I have diodes and caps but I was looking for a quick and easy solution and have found it using the converter.
• GordonMcComb Posts: 3,366

  2013-07-31 12:09 edited 2013-07-31 12:09

  So, this is a fairly old part, and Parallax is showing they have a LOT of them. I'm wondering if they are, in fact, a newer version. Many of the current models work with <3v (for 2-cell remotes without voltage hacking). The shopping cart may not have been updated with the newer datasheet.
  
  I'd actually try one at the lower voltage, just to make sure. Won't hurt it. If it needs the >4.7v, you will know instantly. Assuming the use of something like a Prop BOE or Prop Activity Board, you have a source of 5V if needed. I'd be sure to get that 1K resistor in series.
  
  -- Gordon
• NWCCTV Posts: 3,629

  2013-07-31 14:33 edited 2013-07-31 14:33

  Yhanks Gordon. I will give this a try when I return to WA from my Montana trip. Should be soon as I am anxious to get my Wild Thumper moving.
• erco Posts: 20,261

  2013-07-31 22:48 edited 2013-07-31 22:48

  I still say for 78 cents or less, a TSOP4038 is your best bet. Operates from 2.7-5.5V, no voltage hardware or games to play: http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Vishay-Semiconductors/TSOP4038/?qs=oO6ELfDJL3fM5etQKIfesw==
• NWCCTV Posts: 3,629

  2013-08-01 23:32 edited 2013-08-01 23:32

  @erco, Is there a schematic somewhere that shows how to connect the Sharp IR sensors to a Prop Board? IIRC, I ordered some several months ago and would like to try them out.
  
  EDIT: I guess they are not Sony, they are these ones from EGM. Anyone know how to connect and code these things?