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Passive Automotive Tachometer — Parallax Forums

Passive Automotive Tachometer

parskoparsko Posts: 501
edited 2007-11-28 14:00 in Propeller 1
Hi all,

I'm working on a passive automotive tachometer. I say passive, since it needs to be able to work on just about anything. The technique I am using is an inductive style pickup. This method uses a wired wrapped around a spark plug wire about 6 times. I have setup and tested the following circuit:

circuit.gif

It blinked the LED just fine. The author says that if one wants to hook up to a ucontroller, that one just has to connect the transistor collector to the pin. This is where I get confused. I like to know what I'm doing before I fry any pins on my (original) Prop. So, I went to a transistor calculator page (FOUND HERE), to see what is going on.

I believe the calculator is for an "ideal" transistor. So, when you put values in, as can be seen in the diagram I included, it doesn't work. Specifically, R2, on the emitter, must have a value. Is it safe to put in 1? My values for the rest are: R3 is 9800, R1 is 220, R2 is 220. Vcc=3.3, Vbb=100V (AC with a diode in-line). Is it safe to simply connect Vc directly to the Prop pin?

In the Prop manual v1.05.8, it shows a diagram of the transistor style Serial port connection. It uses a transistor in the Rx pin. This is the same implementation as used in the diagram above. Again, no R2 resistor is used. AND, it seems to use a pull up resistor connector to the Prop pin.

When a transistor sees no current at the base, it is "off". When it is off, would the collector see a negative (ground) connection, meaning that the Prop input pin would be low? Wouldn't the current pass through the pull-up resistor into the Prop pin, and then what happens when the transistor is "open" or "switched on"?

This is where my confusion lies. I am trying to use a transitor as an "on/off" switch for an anonymous signal that will be read by an input pin on the Prop.





One additional unrelated question: I'm using a Protoboard. I want to hook up to a vehicles battery directly (7V during cold cranking, 14.4V during normal running). Initially (for now in my data aquisition setup), I won't be drawing much current, I would say less than 100mA. Would the 5V regulator be able to handle the heat? Aka, is the Proto board capable of dissipating the heat enough? Or, should I add a heat sink to be safe? I have done through the calcs, and I know it will need to dissipate about 0.9W @14.4-100mA. The Voltage regulator should be okay, right?

Please offer any suggestions you may have. I'm a bit stumped, and don't yet have the confidence(knowledge of electronics) to make a proper decision.

Thanks,

-Parsko

Comments

  • slosjoslosjo Posts: 25
    edited 2007-11-27 22:07
    Add a heat sink if you are going to hook up 14.4 V. The regulator can handle it, but the protoboard is not properly designed to handle all that heat. In my design, I used a third regulator to bring the voltage to 8 before going into the protoboard regulators. I attached a large heat sink to that regulator, and it still gets warm. If you put 13-14 V directly into the protoboard regulators, they get extremely hot.
  • JavalinJavalin Posts: 892
    edited 2007-11-28 10:34
    For the proto-board i'd change the 10v cap next to the regulator to a 30v or better....!

    J
  • parskoparsko Posts: 501
    edited 2007-11-28 14:00
    Thanks for the advice guys. I added a separate Regulator and big heatsink last night. I left my car at work yesterday, so I could not try the whole thing out yet... I will have time tonight to get it going and report back. Javalin, never thought about that cap!

    -Parsko
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