Don't do this, you'll feel stupid...
Oldbitcollector (Jeff)
Posts: 8,091
There used to be a thread around here. (can't find it now) for confessions of stupid things you've
done with the Propeller. I can say I finally have had mine long enough to do something really dumb.
(I'm officially blaming lack of sleep, playing late night)
I was doing some re-work on one of my proto's when I got a glob of extra solder between some of my
pins. Not wanting to undo everything, I did what I've done in the past on some of my prefboard projects,
I grabbed my razor knife and pulled some neat slices across the PCB. Fixed the short, but cut
traces to TX/RX, P10, and P12.. A quick fix of the TX/RX and I rebooted to find the other two.
Boy do I feel stupid...
Joining the ranks.....
Oldbitcollector
▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
The comments and code above are proof that a million monkeys with a million propeller chips *could* write Shakespeare!
done with the Propeller. I can say I finally have had mine long enough to do something really dumb.
(I'm officially blaming lack of sleep, playing late night)
I was doing some re-work on one of my proto's when I got a glob of extra solder between some of my
pins. Not wanting to undo everything, I did what I've done in the past on some of my prefboard projects,
I grabbed my razor knife and pulled some neat slices across the PCB. Fixed the short, but cut
traces to TX/RX, P10, and P12.. A quick fix of the TX/RX and I rebooted to find the other two.
Boy do I feel stupid...
Joining the ranks.....
Oldbitcollector
▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
The comments and code above are proof that a million monkeys with a million propeller chips *could* write Shakespeare!
Comments
▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
- Rick
I'd like to prevent you from further disappointments: BLUE and WHITE LEDs have forward voltages between 3 and 3.5 V, so there is little chance to use them from the Prop without "drivers" connected to a higher voltage
The shining HYDRA board has its blue LED near the power switch only
Post Edited (deSilva) : 8/25/2007 10:40:29 PM GMT
The first picture shows where I patched in a wire to connect the top power trace to the bottom where the original LED was (I didn't bother to photograph the bottom), the second picture is just the blue LED happily making blue light.
▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
- Rick
Post Edited (RDL2004) : 8/26/2007 1:03:28 AM GMT
Well, most likely not
Will have to re-test...
[noparse]:)[/noparse]
Oldbitcollector
▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
The comments and code above are proof that a million monkeys with a million propeller chips *could* write Shakespeare!
As they have a forward voltage of 3.3 V +/- 10% and LOW is around 0.3 V you have 1.4 V at the resistor
If you want to SHINE them, use 100R (= 14 mA)
But they also look good at economical 3 mA -> 470R
▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
- Rick
▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
I was soldering a ground post onto my Hydra and I accidentally picked the wrong side of one of the bulk tantalums (+5V instead of GND). That would have been fine, and I would have figured it out soon enough, but I still had the Hydra connected to my Laptop over USB. The Hydra power was unplugged, but the board was getting 5V from the laptop, and soldering irons are electrically tied to ground, so....
The laptop went down HARD. Just one big THUNK and all everything wend dark. I thought I had fried the whole thing. My heart was totally in my stomach.
After unplugging everything I power cycled the laptop and everything came back up, but I'm much more careful about where I point that iron now [noparse];)[/noparse]
well, you remember that thread awhile ago about magic smoke??? I guess USB ports weren't built to sink 18 volts.
▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
Brian
uController.com - home of SpinStudio