I've used several method of attaching the displays to breadboards. The attached picture of one of the older (4 pin) uOLED modules mounted on a BOE should give you an idea of how that works. I've also made 4 and 5 pin male/female cables using Molex (SL) connectors. The male end plugs into the breadboard and the display into the female end. The cable arrangement (obviously ), gives you the most flexability for mounting the display.
The photo that you probably saw on the 4D site that caused you to be concerned about the uSD card interfering with mounting was a bit misleading. You probably saw one with the uSD card "being" inserted. When fully inserted (it's a push-push socket), you can barely find the darned thing. It's completely tucked away under the GOLDELOX (the G in GMD1) module.
The above methods also work fine for Prop boards with prototype/breadboard areas.
I tend to use Prop Proto boards for my projects and I usually put female header strips on the board for easy attachment of smaller project boards (I HATE soldering and de-soldering when I cahnge my mind or go on to the next project). I made a small "carrier" board for the uOLED displays by pressing a 10 pin female header (with long solder tail)·through the board. Then used wirewrap wire (I know, but it's quick) to bring the pins I needed to a 5 pin female header for the display (the resistor is just a 10K pullup on the Tx line). I also use a 5 pin female right-angle header that plugs into the 5 pin straight header if I want to lay the display flat on the board instead of having it stand up. The display uses P5(reset), P6(Tx) and P7(Rx) as well as Vdd and Vss from that pin group (the "GMD1" modules work just fine on 3.3 VDC even though the specs say 5V for power). I used that group because it's the group most likely to be available on most of the Prop boards (Demo, Proto, etc.).
Rumor has it (shhhh), that Parallax will be selling the uOLED-128-GMD1 displays sometime soon, but to my knowledge, they will not be selling a carrier board to facillitate mounting the displays.
I'm nearly finished with a PCB (simple board, but no time)·for use on the Prop boards that provides hardware plug&play for both the uOLED-128-GMD1 (128x128) and the larger uOLED-160-GMD1 (160x128) with two display connectors (the displays are oriented differently with respect to their connection pins) and mounting holes to provide a simple plug-in video module. I've also built (finished) a carrier board that uses the AppMod connector on the BOE so that the displays can easily be mounted on the BOE for Stamp (or Spin Stamp) projects.
I know what you mean about the size of the displays. Have you seen the uOLED-96 (96x64) from 4D Systems? It's not much bigger than a postage stamp yet has the same great features as the larger 128x128, 160x128 uOLEDs and the 128x128 and 240x320 uLCDs from 4D! https://www.littlepcbsolutions.com/uOLED-96-xMB.html
The small size is why·I've been making and using carrier boards for the displays. They're not really "delicate", but they are designed to be mounted and enclosed in most applications (but not for us "breadboarders", eh?· ).
Turns out the rumor is true... 4DSystems of Sydney has Parallax listed as a distributor. This was on my official wish list. And I would very much thank everyone for making it possible. And by not offering the carrier board, Parallax maintains its good corporate neighbor conduct.
Perhaps a new Parallax motto is in order? How 'bout... "If you are ready to earn, we are ready to churn."
Well done to THE Duffer.
I will be patiently waiting for a section in the Propeller Cook Book... The definitive do-it-yourself guide.
I was thinking that bending the pins 90 degrees might be the simplest way to manage puting the -128 onto the PEkit boards. I was able to bend them easily enough but now I am dubious about whether the pins even engage the contacts in the breadboards. (In other words, learn by my bad example: DON'T TRY this at home)
Next kludge is wire wrap I guess. Eventually I will get some connectors (I have lost whole afternoons peering at Mouser's connect catalog pages -- someone ought to make up a retail kit of useful connects for beginners like me who have nothing better than pliers. With an optional array of resistors, caps, transistors, diodes for the truly poor. Bitter envy: people who dive into their "parts box".)
My comment on sizes was mostly about the microSD cards -- any of my doggies could chew up 100G in a single lick and sample. They would think no more of that than the bannisters or chair legs or books or whatever else they have taken a fancy to over the years.
Fred
Post Edited (Fred Hawkins) : 8/18/2007 2:34:45 PM GMT
These things are neat. If it's true that Parallax is going to carry them I hope it doesn't take too long to get them in stock. I'm wanting one to play around with.
Fred, for connectors, take a look at the Molex SL and KK series, they're not too hard to use. I haven't really found a decent cheap crimper for them, so I usually add a little solder just to be sure, but they work pretty well. Check out this post for a bit more info: http://forums.parallax.com/showthread.php?p=577638
I would caution you against bending the interface pins on the displays. I know it's tempting to make things fit by brute force, but you'll feel worse and have to get into even more·of a·kludge if you break off one of those pins. You're correct, the 128 is not the most convenient for breadboard mounting.
I've had good success with the following, either by themseves or in combination to get the orientation I need.
Mouser Part# 517-647-03-36· 36 pin single row female header
Mouser Part# 517-550-01-36· 36 pin single row female header right-angle
The above are·manufactured by 3M
Look on the Mouser online catalog - Pages 1,179 and 1,180 for more 3M connectors
The female single row woth the long solder tails is REALLY handy for making small boards
The same headers with standard solder tails work very well on the Prop Proto board for adding headers for connecting parts and other boards without soldering and un-soldering parts.
Also check the Mouser online catalog page 1,241 for a good selection of Mill-Max connectors.
All of the above are Swiss Machine pin connectors. Very nice round machined pins and sockets with press-fit shoulders for through-hole circuit boards or soldering.
Also, all of the above come in 36 to 50 pin strips that can easily be snapped off or cut off for the number of pins you need.·Most are pretty expensive $3 - 4, but you get multiple connectors out of single strip and the finished product looks nice and functions very well.
Another option for locating/mounting the displays is to make a cable. Mouser online catalog page 1,245 shows a wide range of Molex SL connectors and the pin and socket pieces needed to make very nice cables with either male or female ends. Pin spacing is .1" to fit most PCBs and breadboards.
As a last resort, you can hope that some interprising fellow will design and produce custom carrier boards and cables·for these displays and supply all of the connectors you need to mount the displays in a number of configurations without haveing to resort to bending anything. PM me if you're interested in something like this. I may be able to help you.
Steve
PS -·RE crimpers for the Molex SL connector pins. Promise not to laugh.... Go to a craft store like Michelles (sp) and look in the jewelry making section. I bought some narrow-jawed crimpers that are perfect fot the Molex pins (I usually solder after crimping to be safe). While you're there, take a look at they're selection of other small hand tools (plyers, cutters, tweezers, etc.). If youve priced these items in electronics stores and the normal hand tool outlets, you may be pleasantly surprised.
Sorry to answer in seperate posts, but I didn't see your post RE the Graphics Composer until after I posted the prev.
Yes, I have been using the new Graphics Composer V 2.0.0. to load images onto the uSD card on the device. This may be dissapointing for you but you will probably need to get a uUSB-MB5 in order to use the GC. The MB5 is a USB to Serial adapter designed especially for the new G1, GMD1 and PMD2 displays. It has a 5 pin socket that the display plugs into and the GC talks to the USB serial port created. The MB5 is also the preferred method of commecting the displays to a PC so that you can do the PmmC updates. PmmC (Personality module micro Code) is the way that 4D will be delivering fixes and enhancements for the displays.
4D Systems is also close to release (I'll probably get in trouble for this) of a lower-cost alternative the the uUSB-MB5. The uUSB-CE5 (CE for Card Edge - see mechanical drawing attached).
This piece will not have the breadboard pins on the bottom like the MB5 and will also not need a special USB A·to mini B cable. The card edge connector plugs directly into a USB A female connector either on the PC itself, a USB hub or a USB extension cable. On the under-side of the CE5 (not shown in the attached drawing) are pads which match the pin out of the Parallax Prop Plug plus a fifth pin for 5 VDC. Adding a simple 5 pin header allows use of the CE5 for both.
You could probably use something like the Prop plug on a breadboard and bring the Rx, Tx and ground pins to the proper display pins. You would also need to supply 5 VDC for the display (the Prop Plug doesn't bring the·5V·out from the USB connector. Just be carefull that you understand the pin outs for the display and the Prop Plug. ·DO NOT attempt to connect the display to your PC using the your PC's serial port directly.·99% chance that you'll fry the Rx pin on the display. The displays are designed for TTL 0-3.3·V logic. RS-232 serial port on the PC uses 0-12 V. If you're connecting it to a 5V system like the Stamp, a current limiting 1K resistor in series on the displays Rx line will protect the pin.
Sorry agian for splitting posts, but I had to check a couple of things.
The·first release of the new Graphics Composer V 2.0.0 (the first one that supports the uSD card) is just that, a first release. This release only loads and manages graphic images. The next release (hopefully this coming week) will support text, full motion video, display command scripts and more.
4D is also working (feverishly) on a PC based software simulator of the displays. It will allow you to "draw" graphics, text, etc. using you keyboard and mouse, preview the results on a simulated display and save the commands/graphics/text to the uSD card or to file for later downloading. You won't need the display (full software simulation) in order to experiment with the command set and the display's graphics functions.
And by the way both of these tools are/will be freely downloadable from the 4D site. http://www.4dsystems.com.au
Alas, the pins are bent. I am not going to bend them back which has always been productive way to shorten pins for me. Wire wrap next. Eventually I may even cobble a
cable together.
Thanks for the Mauser help. I DID notice your Propeller Proto Board's extras and was going to ask about that eventually [noparse]:)[/noparse]
Tell 4D what I really want is a gif converter, simple at first, one gif = one picture. Then we can get one animated gif = many pictures.
That way 4D can leverage existing gif production software into something that says, "Gee Whiz I gotta have a GMD1."
For us prop people, we may to be able to pull a suitable image in the propPlug and write it directly to the microSD in the GMD1. Seems like we
have all the pieces already. Except the exact layout of a GMD1 picture.
I'm not sure what you're asking for concerning image processing for the uOLED modules. The current early release of the Graphics Composer allows you to select a series of images (GIF, JPG, BMP, PNG) and Zoom, Stretch, Crop and size them to fit the display you're using, load the image onto the uSD card and then·report the physical location of each image that it loaded. In this first release the images start loading at·0x200000(2097152) 2Mb on the card. Starting at location 0 (zero) on the card, a command script· containing only display image·locations (on the card) and delay commands (the same ones you see in the documentation) is written by the Graphics Composer.
The point of this whole exercise is so that you can now disconnect the device from you computer, put the "Run" jumper on the back of the display·in place, apply power and the device will ·"play" the slide show that you just loaded using the script just created.
When you save the project file (list of images, etc) in GC, a text file (currently) is created that lists all of the images in the project, and their location on the uSD card. Using the info from the text file, you can write your own code in PBasic, Spin, or whatever to do whatever you want with the stored images. See the device specific documentation for the image display commands that you can use.
But as an example, with a few simple serial commands in your code, you could "animate" the stored images at up to ~ 12 frames per second using full-screen 128x128 65K color images. The image commands used by the displays allow you to choose the starting position within the graphic (on sector boundry), the width and height (how much of the image you want to use) and the X,Y location to start displaying the image. Using smaller images or less that full-screen parts of stored full-screen images (say 80x80), frame rates close to 30 fps can be achieved.
In the full release of the GC (could be as early as next week), the list of image formats that you can load will be expanded to include MP4, AVI and others (I don't have the whole list, the goal is to make it as comprehensive as is possible). Also, you will be able to change the order of the images (mostly used when building slideshows), set specific delays, build you own command scripts (at any location on the card, not just 0 - see the "Run Program From Memory" command in the device-specific docs), create and load text onto the uSD, and more.
To put things into perspective, a 1GB uSD card can store 32,768 (32K) 128x128 65K color images. With the default delay of 2 seconds (in the current release), a fully loaded card in demo mode (run jumper on), would produce a slideshow that would last·over 18 minutes before looping back to start over again.
If you want to load the images on your own, the storage format is no secret. Start your image on a sector boundry (sectors are 512 bytes), write two bytes per pixel of color data (16 bit, 65K colors) from the start to the end of your raw image (there are write byte and write sector·commands that you could use for writing your image data·- see display-specific docs). You can also choose to write the image at a color depth of 256 colors (one byte per pixel). The image display commands for the device allows you to specify what color depth the image is stored in. Use the starting sector number (you did write it down, didn't you? ) to tell the image command where to start retrieving you image for display.
Hello all, I just ordered a uLED GMD1-160 w/ the board from Dontronics.· Does this object work w/ this device even though it was specifically written for the 128.
The object was written specifically for the 128-GMD1. The majority of the calls will work for the 160 with the exception of the scroll control commands (different hardware controler, different capabilities).·I will be submitting an object for the uOLED-160-GMD1 to the·Object Exchange·as soon as it's finished and tested. In the mean time, I would suggest that you download the user guides for the uOLED-128-GMD1 http://www.4dsystems.com.au/downloads/micro-OLED/uOLED-128-GMD1/Docs/·(Choice of Word or PDF format) and the uOLED-160-GMD1 http://www.4dsystems.com.au/downloads/micro-OLED/uOLED-160-GMD1/Docs/·(they're free) and compare the cammand syntax. You'll find that the vast majority of the cammands are identical. This fact points out one of the advantages of the GOLDELOX MD1 processor used on both displays. Different hardware (display/controller), different MD1 Personallity micro code, same embedded processor (MD1).
Good luck and I'll get back to work on the 160 Object and demo.
You can post here or PM me if you have specific questions.
thanks for the help and hardwork - After reading thru their docs and your code for 128, I am excited abt this device.· I think i might have found the holy-grail of display devices [noparse]:)[/noparse]
i will look forward to your 160 codebase and would love to dogfood it.· I am yet waiting on the shipment.· I will PM you as soon as it is here w/ me.
thanks, Nagi
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"any small object, accidentally dropped, goes and hides behind a larger object."
I'm targeting this weekend for finishing the 160 object and demo. At that point you can do what you like with it (chow down). Also getting all the files into the archive for the 128 object.·It'll probably be done b4 you get your display. Next time maybe you'll look to a US distributor for quicker delivery.
rj0_,
Can you be a bit more clear by what you mean by "won't open"? Can you not extract the files from the ZIP file, will the demo not run, or something esle?
OLED.INIT
SD_Demo := 1 'Set to 0 if _uSD routines are commented out CLEAR_SECTORS 'Clears the first 240 sectors on the uSD card
REPEAT
SETUP
TEXTSIZE
BIGTEXT
STOPSIGN
WIREFRAME
SOLID
STRING_ART
WALKER
WITCH
WITCH_2_uSD
STRIPCHART
STRIPCHART_2_uSD
PUTPIXEL
BUTTONS
FASTSCROLL
MONITOR
MONITOR_2_uSD
DEVICEINFO
MONITOR_FROM_uSD
STRIPCHART_FROM_uSD
WITCH_FROM_uSD
PART_SCREENS_FROM_uSD
FAST_IMAGES_FROM_uSD
CONTRAST
SHUTDOWN
Keep in mind that the demo uses the uSD card. If you don't have a uSD card inserted, you have to set the SD_Demo variable to 0 (zero) and comment out the CLEAR_SECTOR call and all of the calls containing "_uSD" in the main loop.
If you think it's something else, let me know, more specifically, what's not working and I'll·try to help you through it.
Steve·
That's due to the later WinZip versions. They've been tinkering with the compressed archive format to build sales. I'm not sure if there is a Winzip option to save as old 9.x archives, but if there is, it's not a bad idea to use it.
I've been running into this frequently. Version 10.x plus, is not strictly compatable with older versions, and the windows built in compressed folder feature. The big reasons for using Winzip remain:
-very large archives, split into smaller distributions
-password protected archives.
If you don't need either one of these, it's not a bad idea to package with the win32 compressed "send to" option.
Maybe this is something else too, but I suspect not.
No... but I've been mostly using my Windows machine.
Thanks for the attachments... absolutely stunning little display[noparse]:)[/noparse]
Do I wait for Parallax to pick up the 160 or should I just order the 128?
Depends on what you need. The two displays are pretty much the same. Obviously, the 160 gives you a bit more screen "real estate" to work with, but if you're looking for a smaller footprint, then the 128 is a better choice. Until Parallax decides to carry more than just the 128, you can get a uOLED-160-GMD1 from http://www.littlepcbsolutions.com
If you're looking to get either of the displays, I would suggest also getting one of the micro USB adapters (uUSB-MB5) or the soon to be available, less expensive,·uUSB-CE5. These little adapters allow you to connect the displays directly to a USB port on you PC so that you can use the (FREE) 4D Systems Graphics Composer to load graphics, video, etc. onto the uSD card. They're also used with the PmmC loader to update the personallity micro code on the displays and the soon to be available Graphics Commander software (FREE,·PC based interactive simulater for the new GMD1 and PMD2 based displays). The micro USB adapters are·available from Little PCB Solutions (Parallax doesn't carry them at this time).
Thanks for all of the advice. I'm sort of a "Parallax" addict... So, I'll probably get what they offer.
I'm going to hold off for a couple of weeks to see if they pick up the 160.
What I really like about the Propeller is that when I add a piece of hardware, I actually get to see how it works.
Engineering at its best is an art-form. A uOLED properly interfaced to a Propeller is high art.
i just got my 160 uOLED.· I hooked it up to my demo board per the schematic in your code and ran it.· I don't see the results of your demo on the display.· All I see is the factory logo come up and then does H-Scroll.·
Also, I noticed a couple of typos in your object code file (can you confirm):·In the schematic and the pin alignment comment section;· The RHS says Tx needs to go to P7 on uOLED - while the LHS says the Tx needs to go to P6 on uOLED. Also, looks like the VDD and VSS connection references seem to be incorrect.·
I tried both un/commenting the SD routines out - no diff. I do have a 2gb sd card in the slot.
BTW, do you know what the jump clip is for on the back - i am curious.· Mine is unhooked and the 2 pins are not connected.· Is that the way it is supposed to be.· Did not find any info on their datasheet or manual.
thanks for the wonderful work on this device.· Looking forward to fully leveraging this in my robot project (if i can ever get my project to go full swing again)
Nagi
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"any small object, accidentally dropped, goes and hides behind a larger object."
Comments
Breadboard:
I've used several method of attaching the displays to breadboards. The attached picture of one of the older (4 pin) uOLED modules mounted on a BOE should give you an idea of how that works. I've also made 4 and 5 pin male/female cables using Molex (SL) connectors. The male end plugs into the breadboard and the display into the female end. The cable arrangement (obviously
The photo that you probably saw on the 4D site that caused you to be concerned about the uSD card interfering with mounting was a bit misleading. You probably saw one with the uSD card "being" inserted. When fully inserted (it's a push-push socket), you can barely find the darned thing. It's completely tucked away under the GOLDELOX (the G in GMD1) module.
The above methods also work fine for Prop boards with prototype/breadboard areas.
I tend to use Prop Proto boards for my projects and I usually put female header strips on the board for easy attachment of smaller project boards (I HATE soldering and de-soldering when I cahnge my mind or go on to the next project). I made a small "carrier" board for the uOLED displays by pressing a 10 pin female header (with long solder tail)·through the board. Then used wirewrap wire (I know, but it's quick) to bring the pins I needed to a 5 pin female header for the display (the resistor is just a 10K pullup on the Tx line). I also use a 5 pin female right-angle header that plugs into the 5 pin straight header if I want to lay the display flat on the board instead of having it stand up. The display uses P5(reset), P6(Tx) and P7(Rx) as well as Vdd and Vss from that pin group (the "GMD1" modules work just fine on 3.3 VDC even though the specs say 5V for power). I used that group because it's the group most likely to be available on most of the Prop boards (Demo, Proto, etc.).
Rumor has it (shhhh), that Parallax will be selling the uOLED-128-GMD1 displays sometime soon, but to my knowledge, they will not be selling a carrier board to facillitate mounting the displays.
I'm nearly finished with a PCB (simple board, but no time)·for use on the Prop boards that provides hardware plug&play for both the uOLED-128-GMD1 (128x128) and the larger uOLED-160-GMD1 (160x128) with two display connectors (the displays are oriented differently with respect to their connection pins) and mounting holes to provide a simple plug-in video module. I've also built (finished) a carrier board that uses the AppMod connector on the BOE so that the displays can easily be mounted on the BOE for Stamp (or Spin Stamp) projects.
HTH,·· Steve
Post Edited (Duffer) : 8/18/2007 10:01:58 AM GMT
I know what you mean about the size of the displays. Have you seen the uOLED-96 (96x64) from 4D Systems? It's not much bigger than a postage stamp yet has the same great features as the larger 128x128, 160x128 uOLEDs and the 128x128 and 240x320 uLCDs from 4D! https://www.littlepcbsolutions.com/uOLED-96-xMB.html
The small size is why·I've been making and using carrier boards for the displays. They're not really "delicate", but they are designed to be mounted and enclosed in most applications (but not for us "breadboarders", eh?·
Steve
Turns out the rumor is true... 4DSystems of Sydney has Parallax listed as a distributor. This was on my official wish list. And I would very much thank everyone for making it possible. And by not offering the carrier board, Parallax maintains its good corporate neighbor conduct.
Perhaps a new Parallax motto is in order? How 'bout... "If you are ready to earn, we are ready to churn."
Well done to THE Duffer.
I will be patiently waiting for a section in the Propeller Cook Book... The definitive do-it-yourself guide.
Rich
Thanks for the help and pictures.
Am I correct that the interface pins are at the top of the screen? (So sticking the -128 directly into a breadboard results in upside down display)
Second important question: Your demo code mentions "damaging the display by removing power while the display electronics are powered on (see the uOLED-128-GMD1 documentation for details)." Do you have a link for these docs? Nevermind: http://www.4dsystems.com.au/downloads/micro-OLED/uOLED-160-GMD1/Docs/Pdf/uOLED-160-GMD1_Users_Manual_Rev1.2.pdf
I was thinking that bending the pins 90 degrees might be the simplest way to manage puting the -128 onto the PEkit boards. I was able to bend them easily enough but now I am dubious about whether the pins even engage the contacts in the breadboards. (In other words, learn by my bad example: DON'T TRY this at home)
Next kludge is wire wrap I guess. Eventually I will get some connectors (I have lost whole afternoons peering at Mouser's connect catalog pages -- someone ought to make up a retail kit of useful connects for beginners like me who have nothing better than pliers. With an optional array of resistors, caps, transistors, diodes for the truly poor. Bitter envy: people who dive into their "parts box".)
My comment on sizes was mostly about the microSD cards -- any of my doggies could chew up 100G in a single lick and sample. They would think no more of that than the bannisters or chair legs or books or whatever else they have taken a fancy to over the years.
Fred
Post Edited (Fred Hawkins) : 8/18/2007 2:34:45 PM GMT
Fred, for connectors, take a look at the Molex SL and KK series, they're not too hard to use. I haven't really found a decent cheap crimper for them, so I usually add a little solder just to be sure, but they work pretty well. Check out this post for a bit more info: http://forums.parallax.com/showthread.php?p=577638
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- Rick
Have you figured out how to use the Graphics Explorer and Composer programs?
Fred
I would caution you against bending the interface pins on the displays. I know it's tempting to make things fit by brute force, but you'll feel worse and have to get into even more·of a·kludge if you break off one of those pins. You're correct, the 128 is not the most convenient for breadboard mounting.
I've had good success with the following, either by themseves or in combination to get the orientation I need.
Mouser Part# 517-647-03-36· 36 pin single row female header
Mouser Part# 517-550-01-36· 36 pin single row female header right-angle
The above are·manufactured by 3M
Look on the Mouser online catalog - Pages 1,179 and 1,180 for more 3M connectors
The female single row woth the long solder tails is REALLY handy for making small boards
The same headers with standard solder tails work very well on the Prop Proto board for adding headers for connecting parts and other boards without soldering and un-soldering parts.
Also check the Mouser online catalog page 1,241 for a good selection of Mill-Max connectors.
All of the above are Swiss Machine pin connectors. Very nice round machined pins and sockets with press-fit shoulders for through-hole circuit boards or soldering.
Also, all of the above come in 36 to 50 pin strips that can easily be snapped off or cut off for the number of pins you need.·Most are pretty expensive $3 - 4, but you get multiple connectors out of single strip and the finished product looks nice and functions very well.
Another option for locating/mounting the displays is to make a cable. Mouser online catalog page 1,245 shows a wide range of Molex SL connectors and the pin and socket pieces needed to make very nice cables with either male or female ends. Pin spacing is .1" to fit most PCBs and breadboards.
As a last resort, you can hope that some interprising fellow will design and produce custom carrier boards and cables·for these displays and supply all of the connectors you need to mount the displays in a number of configurations without haveing to resort to bending anything. PM me if you're interested in something like this. I may be able to help you.
Steve
PS -·RE crimpers for the Molex SL connector pins. Promise not to laugh.... Go to a craft store like Michelles (sp) and look in the jewelry making section. I bought some narrow-jawed crimpers that are perfect fot the Molex pins (I usually solder after crimping to be safe). While you're there, take a look at they're selection of other small hand tools (plyers, cutters, tweezers, etc.). If youve priced these items in electronics stores and the normal hand tool outlets, you may be pleasantly surprised.
Post Edited (Duffer) : 8/18/2007 3:27:43 PM GMT
Sorry to answer in seperate posts, but I didn't see your post RE the Graphics Composer until after I posted the prev.
Yes, I have been using the new Graphics Composer V 2.0.0. to load images onto the uSD card on the device. This may be dissapointing for you but you will probably need to get a uUSB-MB5 in order to use the GC. The MB5 is a USB to Serial adapter designed especially for the new G1, GMD1 and PMD2 displays. It has a 5 pin socket that the display plugs into and the GC talks to the USB serial port created. The MB5 is also the preferred method of commecting the displays to a PC so that you can do the PmmC updates. PmmC (Personality module micro Code) is the way that 4D will be delivering fixes and enhancements for the displays.
http://www.4dsystems.com.au/downloads/micro-USB/uUSB-MB5/
4D Systems is also close to release (I'll probably get in trouble for this) of a lower-cost alternative the the uUSB-MB5. The uUSB-CE5 (CE for Card Edge - see mechanical drawing attached).
This piece will not have the breadboard pins on the bottom like the MB5 and will also not need a special USB A·to mini B cable. The card edge connector plugs directly into a USB A female connector either on the PC itself, a USB hub or a USB extension cable. On the under-side of the CE5 (not shown in the attached drawing) are pads which match the pin out of the Parallax Prop Plug plus a fifth pin for 5 VDC. Adding a simple 5 pin header allows use of the CE5 for both.
You could probably use something like the Prop plug on a breadboard and bring the Rx, Tx and ground pins to the proper display pins. You would also need to supply 5 VDC for the display (the Prop Plug doesn't bring the·5V·out from the USB connector. Just be carefull that you understand the pin outs for the display and the Prop Plug. ·DO NOT attempt to connect the display to your PC using the your PC's serial port directly.·99% chance that you'll fry the Rx pin on the display. The displays are designed for TTL 0-3.3·V logic. RS-232 serial port on the PC uses 0-12 V. If you're connecting it to a 5V system like the Stamp, a current limiting 1K resistor in series on the displays Rx line will protect the pin.
Steve
Post Edited (Duffer) : 8/18/2007 4:26:14 PM GMT
The·first release of the new Graphics Composer V 2.0.0 (the first one that supports the uSD card) is just that, a first release. This release only loads and manages graphic images. The next release (hopefully this coming week) will support text, full motion video, display command scripts and more.
4D is also working (feverishly) on a PC based software simulator of the displays. It will allow you to "draw" graphics, text, etc. using you keyboard and mouse, preview the results on a simulated display and save the commands/graphics/text to the uSD card or to file for later downloading. You won't need the display (full software simulation) in order to experiment with the command set and the display's graphics functions.
And by the way both of these tools are/will be freely downloadable from the 4D site. http://www.4dsystems.com.au
Steve
Alas, the pins are bent. I am not going to bend them back which has always been productive way to shorten pins for me. Wire wrap next. Eventually I may even cobble a
cable together.
Thanks for the Mauser help. I DID notice your Propeller Proto Board's extras and was going to ask about that eventually [noparse]:)[/noparse]
Tell 4D what I really want is a gif converter, simple at first, one gif = one picture. Then we can get one animated gif = many pictures.
That way 4D can leverage existing gif production software into something that says, "Gee Whiz I gotta have a GMD1."
For us prop people, we may to be able to pull a suitable image in the propPlug and write it directly to the microSD in the GMD1. Seems like we
have all the pieces already. Except the exact layout of a GMD1 picture.
Fred
I'm not sure what you're asking for concerning image processing for the uOLED modules. The current early release of the Graphics Composer allows you to select a series of images (GIF, JPG, BMP, PNG) and Zoom, Stretch, Crop and size them to fit the display you're using, load the image onto the uSD card and then·report the physical location of each image that it loaded. In this first release the images start loading at·0x200000(2097152) 2Mb on the card. Starting at location 0 (zero) on the card, a command script· containing only display image·locations (on the card) and delay commands (the same ones you see in the documentation) is written by the Graphics Composer.
The point of this whole exercise is so that you can now disconnect the device from you computer, put the "Run" jumper on the back of the display·in place, apply power and the device will ·"play" the slide show that you just loaded using the script just created.
When you save the project file (list of images, etc) in GC, a text file (currently) is created that lists all of the images in the project, and their location on the uSD card. Using the info from the text file, you can write your own code in PBasic, Spin, or whatever to do whatever you want with the stored images. See the device specific documentation for the image display commands that you can use.
But as an example, with a few simple serial commands in your code, you could "animate" the stored images at up to ~ 12 frames per second using full-screen 128x128 65K color images. The image commands used by the displays allow you to choose the starting position within the graphic (on sector boundry), the width and height (how much of the image you want to use) and the X,Y location to start displaying the image. Using smaller images or less that full-screen parts of stored full-screen images (say 80x80), frame rates close to 30 fps can be achieved.
In the full release of the GC (could be as early as next week), the list of image formats that you can load will be expanded to include MP4, AVI and others (I don't have the whole list, the goal is to make it as comprehensive as is possible). Also, you will be able to change the order of the images (mostly used when building slideshows), set specific delays, build you own command scripts (at any location on the card, not just 0 - see the "Run Program From Memory" command in the device-specific docs), create and load text onto the uSD, and more.
To put things into perspective, a 1GB uSD card can store 32,768 (32K) 128x128 65K color images. With the default delay of 2 seconds (in the current release), a fully loaded card in demo mode (run jumper on), would produce a slideshow that would last·over 18 minutes before looping back to start over again.
If you want to load the images on your own, the storage format is no secret. Start your image on a sector boundry (sectors are 512 bytes), write two bytes per pixel of color data (16 bit, 65K colors) from the start to the end of your raw image (there are write byte and write sector·commands that you could use for writing your image data·- see display-specific docs). You can also choose to write the image at a color depth of 256 colors (one byte per pixel). The image display commands for the device allows you to specify what color depth the image is stored in. Use the starting sector number (you did write it down, didn't you?
Steve
Post Edited (Duffer) : 8/18/2007 11:45:55 PM GMT
Now it's just making me wish they had the 160px one [noparse]:)[/noparse]
http://www.dontronics-shop.com/product.php?productid=16659&cat=0&page=1
thanks
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"any small object, accidentally dropped, goes and hides behind a larger object."
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ALIBE - Artificial LIfe BEing. In search of building autonoumous land robot
You can order the 160 from Dontronics in Australia http://www.dontronics-shop.com/product.php?productid=16659&cat=0&page=1 or from Little PCB Solutions here in the US of A http://www.littlepcbsolutions.com·· Price is the same, the difference will be in the shipping cost and the deliver time. And it's your patriotic duty to support US small businesses.
Steve
Post Edited (Duffer) : 8/30/2007 2:14:01 AM GMT
The object was written specifically for the 128-GMD1. The majority of the calls will work for the 160 with the exception of the scroll control commands (different hardware controler, different capabilities).·I will be submitting an object for the uOLED-160-GMD1 to the·Object Exchange·as soon as it's finished and tested. In the mean time, I would suggest that you download the user guides for the uOLED-128-GMD1 http://www.4dsystems.com.au/downloads/micro-OLED/uOLED-128-GMD1/Docs/·(Choice of Word or PDF format) and the uOLED-160-GMD1 http://www.4dsystems.com.au/downloads/micro-OLED/uOLED-160-GMD1/Docs/·(they're free) and compare the cammand syntax. You'll find that the vast majority of the cammands are identical. This fact points out one of the advantages of the GOLDELOX MD1 processor used on both displays. Different hardware (display/controller), different MD1 Personallity micro code, same embedded processor (MD1).
Good luck and I'll get back to work on the 160 Object and demo.
You can post here or PM me if you have specific questions.
Steve
Post Edited (Duffer) : 8/30/2007 2:12:22 AM GMT
thanks for the help and hardwork - After reading thru their docs and your code for 128, I am excited abt this device.· I think i might have found the holy-grail of display devices [noparse]:)[/noparse]
i will look forward to your 160 codebase and would love to dogfood it.· I am yet waiting on the shipment.· I will PM you as soon as it is here w/ me.
thanks, Nagi
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"any small object, accidentally dropped, goes and hides behind a larger object."
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ALIBE - Artificial LIfe BEing. In search of building autonoumous land robot
I'm targeting this weekend for finishing the 160 object and demo. At that point you can do what you like with it (chow down). Also getting all the files into the archive for the 128 object.·It'll probably be done b4 you get your display. Next time maybe you'll look to a US distributor for quicker delivery.
Steve
Link updated in top post of this thread.
Have fun,·· Steve
i will check it out - can't wait till i get my 160 now...
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"any small object, accidentally dropped, goes and hides behind a larger object."
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ALIBE - Artificial LIfe BEing. In search of building autonoumous land robot
You don't have to wait. I posted a link (YouTube) to the new uOLED-160-GMD1 demo·(demo included in ObEx download)·on the first post of this thread.
Enjoy,··· Steve
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"any small object, accidentally dropped, goes and hides behind a larger object."
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ALIBE - Artificial LIfe BEing. In search of building autonoumous land robot
Dunno if its my puter or the file in the Object Exchange... won't open.
Rich
Can you be a bit more clear by what you mean by "won't open"? Can you not extract the files from the ZIP file, will the demo not run, or something esle?
OLED.INIT SD_Demo := 1 'Set to 0 if _uSD routines are commented out CLEAR_SECTORS 'Clears the first 240 sectors on the uSD card REPEAT SETUP TEXTSIZE BIGTEXT STOPSIGN WIREFRAME SOLID STRING_ART WALKER WITCH WITCH_2_uSD STRIPCHART STRIPCHART_2_uSD PUTPIXEL BUTTONS FASTSCROLL MONITOR MONITOR_2_uSD DEVICEINFO MONITOR_FROM_uSD STRIPCHART_FROM_uSD WITCH_FROM_uSD PART_SCREENS_FROM_uSD FAST_IMAGES_FROM_uSD CONTRAST SHUTDOWNKeep in mind that the demo uses the uSD card. If you don't have a uSD card inserted, you have to set the SD_Demo variable to 0 (zero) and comment out the CLEAR_SECTOR call and all of the calls containing "_uSD" in the main loop.
If you think it's something else, let me know, more specifically, what's not working and I'll·try to help you through it.
Steve·
Sorry[noparse]:)[/noparse])
I'm on a Mac... when I try to unzip the file I get error code -37 from Stuffit Expander.
Rich
I've been running into this frequently. Version 10.x plus, is not strictly compatable with older versions, and the windows built in compressed folder feature. The big reasons for using Winzip remain:
-very large archives, split into smaller distributions
-password protected archives.
If you don't need either one of these, it's not a bad idea to package with the win32 compressed "send to" option.
Maybe this is something else too, but I suspect not.
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Propeller Wiki: Share the coolness!
Here are the files as attachments. Have you had this problem with other zipped archives from the ObEx?
You'll also need to make sure that you have the FullDuplexSerial and Clock objects that are used by the object and the demo.
Steve
Post Edited (Duffer) : 9/2/2007 6:37:38 PM GMT
No... but I've been mostly using my Windows machine.
Thanks for the attachments... absolutely stunning little display[noparse]:)[/noparse]
Do I wait for Parallax to pick up the 160 or should I just order the 128?
Rich
Depends on what you need. The two displays are pretty much the same. Obviously, the 160 gives you a bit more screen "real estate" to work with, but if you're looking for a smaller footprint, then the 128 is a better choice. Until Parallax decides to carry more than just the 128, you can get a uOLED-160-GMD1 from http://www.littlepcbsolutions.com
If you're looking to get either of the displays, I would suggest also getting one of the micro USB adapters (uUSB-MB5) or the soon to be available, less expensive,·uUSB-CE5. These little adapters allow you to connect the displays directly to a USB port on you PC so that you can use the (FREE) 4D Systems Graphics Composer to load graphics, video, etc. onto the uSD card. They're also used with the PmmC loader to update the personallity micro code on the displays and the soon to be available Graphics Commander software (FREE,·PC based interactive simulater for the new GMD1 and PMD2 based displays). The micro USB adapters are·available from Little PCB Solutions (Parallax doesn't carry them at this time).
Steve
Post Edited (Duffer) : 9/2/2007 10:35:24 PM GMT
Thanks for all of the advice. I'm sort of a "Parallax" addict... So, I'll probably get what they offer.
I'm going to hold off for a couple of weeks to see if they pick up the 160.
What I really like about the Propeller is that when I add a piece of hardware, I actually get to see how it works.
Engineering at its best is an art-form. A uOLED properly interfaced to a Propeller is high art.
Thanks again.
Rich
i just got my 160 uOLED.· I hooked it up to my demo board per the schematic in your code and ran it.· I don't see the results of your demo on the display.· All I see is the factory logo come up and then does H-Scroll.·
Pin alignment
uOLED················· prop demo board
R (5)·················· Pin 5
- (4)·················· VSS
Rx (3)--->10K
>·Pin 7
Tx (2)················· Pin 6
+ (1)·················· VDD
Also, I noticed a couple of typos in your object code file (can you confirm):· In the schematic and the pin alignment comment section;· The RHS says Tx needs to go to P7 on uOLED - while the LHS says the Tx needs to go to P6 on uOLED. Also, looks like the VDD and VSS connection references seem to be incorrect.·
I tried both un/commenting the SD routines out - no diff. I do have a 2gb sd card in the slot.
BTW, do you know what the jump clip is for on the back - i am curious.· Mine is unhooked and the 2 pins are not connected.· Is that the way it is supposed to be.· Did not find any info on their datasheet or manual.
thanks for the wonderful work on this device.· Looking forward to fully leveraging this in my robot project (if i can ever get my project to go full swing again)
Nagi
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"any small object, accidentally dropped, goes and hides behind a larger object."
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ALIBE - Artificial LIfe BEing. In search of building autonoumous land robot
Post Edited (ALIBE) : 9/7/2007 3:50:52 PM GMT