I found a decent looking store on ebay that sells loads of these for about 6.95, I ordered a 2400 baud version, no I'm not stupid, I own a picaxe, thus, I need a 2400 baud lcd backpack, but my earlier questions were for a basic stamp, because I'm currently using that in school. It would've been dumb for me to buy something I could only use for about another week.
It works! To get it to say something different you have to change the for next loop. To say "Jon!" type in "Jon!" instead of "Hello, my name is parallel LCD" Then you change "For temp = 0 to 30" to "for temp = 0 to 3"
It only saddens me that all this work will be torn down around Sunday . It did get me points in class though, so I thank you guys for helping me get that grade, but along the way I began to understand about 80% of everything I was told (Including the code and wiring). Also because of this I now fully understand wiring schematics· For my final grade(s) this week (last week of school, W007), I'll be building a debug screen for things like my IR follower program (two IR sensors receive a signal from an IR LED on a "wand", the BOEBot will follow where the wand is, this has probably already been done a jillion times before, but the wiring and the code all came from my own mind). I might also make a 3 button message programmer. There will be three buttons, the one on the left could be backspace or it might cycle through other messages that were programmed in, the one in the middle, once or if you hold it, it'll·take you in and out of programming mode, and it'll also confirm the character on screen and move onto the next character if you just click it, and the third button will cycle through the characters.
I'm having a hard time getting this LCD to output a variable, I'm looking through commands in the Table of Contents, but I'm not finding anything. The IR program has been tested and fully works in Debug mode, I just need to output the data to the lcd instead. (I know that I will have to get rid of the DEBUG command later) My avatar obviously isn't a real company... Lol
Post Edited (Masterchief1517) : 5/22/2007 2:48:23 AM GMT
I can't get anywhere with this, I'm trying to get it to display if a button is pressed or not (1's and 0's are fine for that), but it keeps coming up with various syntax errors that I cannot find a way around. I just really don't understand most of the code in the R.P.M. program, I haven't gotten that far with programming, but usually when someone isolates sections or explains why something does what it does, I understand it. So could someone point me in the right direction?
Post Edited (Masterchief1517) : 5/22/2007 10:32:43 PM GMT
Sorry in advance for being rude by rushing, but could someone tell me how to make a quick debug screen out of this LCD, I have to have this done by this FRIDAY!!!! The mill RPM thing is very confusing for me and I don't really see how it enables the LCD to be a Debug screen, but I know it does. I should be able to write the code for the three button message programmer to work in the PC's debug screen, but how would I output that exact data to the LCD screen as easily as possible? Again this is due FRIDAY! I'm running dead...
For the Parallax 2x16 backlit LCD, is it possible to hook it up with only one Basic Stamp 1 pin used up? It seemed possible from the app notes, but I might be wrong (although I hope I'm right [noparse]:)[/noparse] ).
OH Boy you guys r just spinnin your wheels. You do have a basic Hd7800 LCD and If you put a POT and resistor on the lcd for contrast it will solve your block problem the other thing is if you do want to go serial just buy 1 for 8 bucks its way cheaper than going threw all the work to prog the PIC on a backpack in my opinion. Also if you go to yahoo and search for the LCD#117 I think PH anderson's website has a good PDF on Common LCD Commands.. Remember Initialization is the key to Having a working screen and if you go serial then your going to run into Software controlled backlight and Lcd Size Stuff. 1 other good reference is the arduiro commands..If you type the code right into the BS2 you'll have the hole list.. I didn't find any good info from parallax's experiments or demo codes for the LCD#117 but most all the hd47498749990----0000 screens use the same code....Best Backpack in the world www.ModernDevices.com CHEAP
Oh boy, I was a real moron back then... I just saw this article had some recent activity when I looked up some extra info on this LCD since I just pulled it out again recently. First off, I'd like to apologize to ever who helped me on my many moronic questions. lol Second, I'll say that the #117 Serial kit is a good way to go. I've got a #118 that I'll have working again once I pick up a replacement resonator.
(In my old picture you saw the crazy mess of wires. I desoldered all of those when I pulled this out a week or so ago and replaced it with a nice simple pinheader and I transferred everything to a much nicer breadboard as opposed to that soldered protoboard I had.... Much, much nicer.)
Hopefully my stupidity helped some people that would've otherwise had asked the same questions from embarrassing themselves.
*EDIT* Maybe I'll take some pictures of it working just to show that the #118/#117 (2400 baud) works just dandy with a YJ-162A once I've got it working again. [noparse];)[/noparse]
Comments
I found this connection diagram on the net, and tried it with the parallel lcd using the atatched program, and it worked!
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Why didn't I think of THAT!!!!
Post Edited (Wynand) : 5/18/2007 11:00:28 AM GMT
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Chris Savage
Parallax Tech Support
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Why didn't I think of THAT!!!!
http://www.parallax.com/html_pages/robotics/machining/RPM_display.asp
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Chris Savage
Parallax Tech Support
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Why didn't I think of THAT!!!!
Post Edited (Masterchief1517) : 5/22/2007 2:48:23 AM GMT
Post Edited (Masterchief1517) : 5/22/2007 10:32:43 PM GMT
Thanks!
I bought about 5 of these displays on Ebay, and·I have been trying to get them to work myself.
(I have to say that I am totally new to the word of the Parallax Stamp)
One bit of info: There is a parts kit offered on Ebay for LCD display interfacing (see item #140068307262)
I bought 5 of these parts kits, but·I have not got around to using them yet.
this page is not there anymore. any other reference to this article????
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An hour's contemplation is better than a year's adoration.
Click
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Smile ... It increases your face value!
(In my old picture you saw the crazy mess of wires. I desoldered all of those when I pulled this out a week or so ago and replaced it with a nice simple pinheader and I transferred everything to a much nicer breadboard as opposed to that soldered protoboard I had.... Much, much nicer.)
Hopefully my stupidity helped some people that would've otherwise had asked the same questions from embarrassing themselves.
*EDIT* Maybe I'll take some pictures of it working just to show that the #118/#117 (2400 baud) works just dandy with a YJ-162A once I've got it working again. [noparse];)[/noparse]