UAV based on the Propeller
Bipedguy
Posts: 40
I am trying to create a UAV based on a propeller PIC.
Plan:
Take an R/C radio airplane and integrate a Propeller into the esign to steer the thing. Im going to use the GPS module in this project along with a Propeller Proto board
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"Robots are just lights...and clockwork."
Detective Spooner
iRobot
Plan:
Take an R/C radio airplane and integrate a Propeller into the esign to steer the thing. Im going to use the GPS module in this project along with a Propeller Proto board
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"Robots are just lights...and clockwork."
Detective Spooner
iRobot
Comments
And airplanes naturally have Propellers!
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Brian Meade
"They who dream by day are cognizant of many things which escape those who dream only by night" - Edgar Poe
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"Robots are just lights...and clockwork."
Detective Spooner
iRobot
Sorry, couldn't resist.
Actually I'm also in the extremely early investigative stages of doing a PChip UAV helicopter. I'm starting by taking a MEMSIC 2125 accelerometer and using that to do a two-wheel balance-bot (a la Nuts & Volts, but with teh MEMSIC at 45deg.)
My biggest problem is that I've forgottent everything I ever learned about trigonometry (or I clearly wasn't paying attention in math's class all those years ago!).
From the heaps of stuff I've read on the subject, I also know I'll need to code a Kalman Filter to fuse the sensor readings (gyro & accelerometer) but, again, it all looks Greek to me :-(
A couple of websites you might be interested in:
1. http://tom.pycke.be/
2. http://www.dev6.com/
Have fun, and keep us all posted.
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Cheers,
Simon
BTW: I type as I'm thinking, so please don't take any offense at my writing style
www.norfolkhelicopterclub.co.uk
You'll always have as many take-offs as landings, the trick is to be sure you can take-off again ;-)
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"Robots are just lights...and clockwork."
Detective Spooner
iRobot
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"Robots are just lights...and clockwork."
Detective Spooner
iRobot
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"Robots are just lights...and clockwork."
Detective Spooner
iRobot
This is the camera i will attach.
this is the transmitter for the camera:
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"Robots are just lights...and clockwork."
Detective Spooner
iRobot
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"Robots are just lights...and clockwork."
Detective Spooner
iRobot
I am trying to create a UAV helicopter based on a propeller PIC. Im using a Falcon 3D CP Electric RC Helicopter from hobby lobby. This is an electric heli which is what i think is the best to use. I am thinking I could use Latitude and Longitude cordinates from Google earth to set waypoints. I was thinking the GPS Appmod from parallax would tell the current position and the propeller would decide the what way it needed to go using the compass. Is that possible? Please write down any ideas.I want it to be autonoumous and be able to be controlled using maybe bluetooth or something like it. I also want to be able to transmit a new flightpath to it in mid-flight. Either way i don't know how to have a video stream transmit to a wirless tv. The length is 24 in. the flying weight is 20 oz. I wonder if it could handle the extra weight of a propstick, a GPS appmod, a video camera, and a transmitter. Plus I have to link up the current servos to the propstick. How would I do that? Then I need the propeller to be able to control the speed and height of the heli.
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"Robots are just lights...and clockwork."
Detective Spooner
iRobot
While these things are all possible, I think they're only going to be accomplished by breaking them down into digestible pieces. There is going to be a lot of effort spent just·making the helicopter fly, at all. All these high-level sensors will have to be integrated at a layer above the how-to-stay-in-the-air algorithm. It's going to take you a few solid weeks, if not months, just getting the helicopter to reliably take off and land in the same place. Once that foundation is strong, you could feed it more abstract data, like where to go. Just keep the long-term goal in mind while you press through the details.
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Chip Gracey
Parallax, Inc.
GPS isn't allways accurate enough.
The best accuracy you can expect with a handheld unit is 3meters(10' ) and that is if you're lucky and one of the WAAS satellites are available.(They send a signal to correct for drift in the other satellies, among other things)
Without them, the best you can hope for is about 5meters.
(I haven't studied the specifications of the Parallax appmod, but I doubt they're better. )
That is 'best case' data. Normal accuracy without WAAS is 7 - 12meters, in my experience.
Yes, GPS can be used, but you better make certain it also have other means of detecting what is around it.
In other words, you probably want to add some sort of proximity detectors before you do too much else.
(you will need them to enable the Propeller to land the uAV reliably)
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Don't visit my new website...
The accuracy of GPS also is a problem as Gadgetman correctly pointed out. You'll need another way to calculate position, and ground speed, so that you can stop it and hold a position, so that a successful landing can be made.
A wide open field would be an ideal place to test all of this, navigation and obstacle avoidance will eventually come after this issues are sorted out.
I wonder how the vibration inherent in a flying model helicopter would affect an accelometer? Learning to fly it by hand may be the first step. Perhaps you could fit it with an Xbee, bluetooth or whatever and and accelometer and download the data during flight.
One last thought.... What kind of payload can a electric helicopter like this carry? Will it be strong enough to take off and fly normally with the extra added weight of all the sensors, GPS and antenna, and some type of circuit board for the Propeller to ride along on? You may need a larger gas powered model.
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Brian Meade
"They who dream by day are cognizant of many things which escape those who dream only by night" - Edgar Poe
Graham
What are you going to attach the propstick to? The protoboard may be a better choice. you could solder the accelometer and compass right to the protoboard, and it has handy connectors for servos. A propstick would need some type of circuitboard to mount it to anyway.
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Brian Meade
"They who dream by day are cognizant of many things which escape those who dream only by night" - Edgar Poe
Brushless motors tends to have higher power/weight ratios, but are also more expensive.
I'm working(on and off) on rebuilding a Silverlit X-UFO to fly autonomously, it has 4 small DC-motors, and with the standard 350mAh/12V Ni-mh pack, it gets about 50grams carrying-capacity and 5 minutes of flight-time.
A 800mAh/7.2V Li-ion pack not only weights less(increasing carrying capacity with 10grams), but also gives it an extended flight-time.
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Don't visit my new website...
You could used BLDC motors and get the prop to control the 3 phases of 4 motors.
Converted CDROM motors and 3 cell lithium polymer battery
SPI based 2/3D accel and gyro/compass.
There is a guy in the UK making single rotor machines, ie McCutchen machine
http://home.att.net/~dannysoar2/Whirlygig.htm
Nice and simple to make.
He has two motors one for upthrust twisting the rotor, the other for down? Both motors spin the motor in the same direction.
Compass chip PWM controls motors, when blade is nearly opposite the direction of required travel the angle of attack is increased with the upthrust motor. Well that what I suspect he is doing from a few paragraphs in UK model mag.
An IR led on the transmitter could be used as reference point if you stay in VFR.
Gavin
Gavin,
Who is selling the McCutchen flyers? These I am very interested in.
Graham
Feel free to try the code i posted here http://forums.parallax.com/forums/default.aspx?f=25&m=179159 for RC radio acquisition, or a manual override switch.
Paul
In fact, the rotors sit approx .2" above the foam rings.
The rings will take most of the impact when you crash, but they also bend easily.
If the rotors were enclosed, either the blades would break, or the foam would be destroyed when you crashed.
(I will make proper ducts for mine as soon as I can get the Propeller to hover steadily, so that I can get an increase in lift, and thereby a saving in battery power)
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Don't visit my new website...
Re McCutchen, I think the guy's name was Ian Blackburn, an UK indoor microguy
Just found out about the http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products/Support.aspx?ProdID=EFLH1250
Coax setup and should be better than the falcon to hack.
Uses Cypress WireUSB PSOC's, my current fav micro after the prop.
Gavin
Graham
I don't think Bob B was selling them yet.
Last I heard he was playing around with compass chips.
I got the Hitachi compass module to give it a try myself.
Dug out my old stash of Memsic accelerometers and found they were old models[noparse]:([/noparse]
My samples of the Wireless PSOCs arrived last week, so I have most of the parts.
Thinking about the sharp range finder parts to stop wall, floor, roof bumping.
Maybe ultrasonic for height?
Too many ideas not enough time.
Gavin
·
Graham
Steps:
1. Get the heli and every other sensor or appmod
2. Integrate the protoboard and solder the current servos to the board
3. Integrate the GPS
4. Create a path using google earth
5. Fly the thing with integrated video.
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"Robots are just lights...and clockwork."
Detective Spooner
iRobot
I'd suggest that you have smaller steps, much smaller steps.
Graham
Was wondering how accurate the coordinates are, my GPS is in the shed and I will need to wait until morning to find it.
It is much better than the older version I looked at a few years ago, nearly useful 3D and elevation stuff?
Also got the prop data sheet hoping for a clue on PAL/NTSC video RF transmitter for remote debug output etc
I will have to find the old threads about it.
On the sandbox forum Kelvin has been playing with a Stanley/Leica laser range finder, altitude for UAV?
Gavin
Here it is :
UAV Article
Regards,
Quattro
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'Necessity is the mother of invention'
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There are no Undo buttons in life.
I'm considering using a couple of XBee-PROs -- just not impressed with their use of 2mm-pitch headers, I need to bread-board this stuff first (I'm also in the UK, so adding the Selmaware AppBee boards adds cost to my very limited budget :-()
I have got hold of a DPAC 2.4GHz WiFi module (from Sparkfun) and will be trying to hook that up to the PChip soon. I'll let you know how I get on.
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Cheers,
Simon
BTW: I type as I'm thinking, so please don't take any offense at my writing style
www.norfolkhelicopterclub.co.uk
You'll always have as many take-offs as landings, the trick is to be sure you can take-off again ;-)
Sparkfun just came out with a breakout board for the XBee. It was only $1.50, plus the 2mm headers are another $0.95 each. Unfortunately it appears they just went on backorder. But when they have them again, it's a cheap solution.
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Brian Meade
"They who dream by day are cognizant of many things which escape those who dream only by night" - Edgar Poe