Shop OBEX P1 Docs P2 Docs Learn Events
Solder Pot Controller — Parallax Forums

Solder Pot Controller

Chris SavageChris Savage Parallax EngineeringPosts: 14,406
edited 2009-11-02 23:17 in Robotics
Hello Everyone,
·
In 2006 to be RoHS compliant Parallax, Inc. moved toward making all products lead-free including the BASIC Stamp Modules which we manufacture in-house.· This required a new Lead-Free Solder Pot to·dip the modules in.· The new Solder Pot did not come with a temperature control.· Instead we created our own Solder Pot Controller which keeps the temperature at our specified set point.· The Solder Pot Controller does this by comparing the current temperature to the set temperature.· The current temperature is gotten via our own Thermocouple Kit and a pin probe which goes into the Solder Pot.
·
The Set Temperature is obtained by pressing a red safety button (which also displays the current set temperature) and rotating an encoder.· The allowed range is 450 – 550 degrees.· Once the desired set temperature is reached, releasing the button stores that value in EEPROM and the Solder Pot returns to comparing the temperature and turning the Solder Pot on/off as needed to maintain that temperature.
·
The optimum temperature for the lead-free parts is about 520 degrees.· The heating element in the Solder Pot is switched on via a Crydom H12D4850 Solid State Relay.· This relay is rated at 240/480V @ 50A and can switch the element on/off without any noise.· This allows for differential gap control without deteriorating controls as we had with the previous temperature controls.· Another problem was the connector right at the Solder Pot breaking down from apparent arcing.· This new system does not exhibit these symptoms.· Whenever the SSR is on an LED is also turned on to indicate the heating element is on.
·
One request our manufacturing department had was a way to know when the Solder Pot was up to temperature without having to keep going over and checking it (it takes a little while from a cold start to heat up).· A Piezo Buzzer is connected and when the Solder Pot first reaches its set temperature it beeps with three long beeps.· After this point the LED activity is much like a Soldering Station with the unit turning on/off at whatever rate is required to maintain the temperature and the buzzer is quiet.· Anything above or equal to the set temperature turns off the SSR.· Anything less turns it on.· The differential gap is 1 degree but could be expanded if necessary.· For this application it is not necessary due to the slow change in temperature in the pot due to density.
·
A schematic of the Solder Pot Controller is attached as well as the BASIC Stamp Code and some pictures.· The schematic and controls were well thought out.· The code was basically the Thermocouple Demo Code with what we didn’t need pulled out and what we did need put in.· The display is a Rentron Serial LED Display that we happened to have on hand.· There is also a FUSE on the incoming AC rated for just over the maximum current expected.· This can be seen in the pictures but was omitted from the schematic for clarity.· Due to the 1-Wire interface this will only work on a BS2p, BS2pe or BS2px model BASIC Stamp.
·
The code and schematics are provided as-is and Parallax, Inc. cannot be held responsible for any use of the information provided here.· For any questions please post them in this thread only.· Thank you!· Enjoy!

▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
Chris Savage
Parallax Tech Support


Post Edited (Chris Savage (Parallax)) : 3/10/2007 2:11:04 AM GMT
«13

Comments

  • Chris SavageChris Savage Parallax Engineering Posts: 14,406
    edited 2007-03-10 01:56
    For those interested I also kept track of the Prototype progress of the Solder Pot Controller. ·This was designed on our Professional Development Board.· In fact we were able to make use of the on-board displays, LEDs and pushbuttons. ·Here are two pictures when the set temperature was at 78 degrees. ·Enjoy!

    ▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
    Chris Savage
    Parallax Tech Support


    Post Edited (Chris Savage (Parallax)) : 3/10/2007 6:31:15 PM GMT
    1024 x 768 - 190K
    1024 x 768 - 181K
  • Twisted PairTwisted Pair Posts: 177
    edited 2007-03-10 16:50
    Just curious what part numbers and suppliers you used for the Encoder and LED Display ?
  • Chris SavageChris Savage Parallax Engineering Posts: 14,406
    edited 2007-03-10 18:29
    Sorry about that, I forgot to attach the BOM…I believe the Encoder came from Digi-Key, but the brand is listed in the BOM. I will see if I have the model…It is a Grayhill 25LB10-Q and is 16 ppr. I hope this helps. I have attached a screen shot of the BOM to the second message…

    ▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
    Chris Savage
    Parallax Tech Support
  • Twisted PairTwisted Pair Posts: 177
    edited 2007-03-10 18:43
    What is meant by BOM ? Also, is the Pin Probe connected to the std Thermocouple lead ? If so, did you purchase the Pin Probe tip from a known supplier ?

    Thanks once again Chris....Twisted Pair....
  • Twisted PairTwisted Pair Posts: 177
    edited 2007-03-10 18:45
    Just got the BOM....Thanks Twisted Pair....
  • Chris SavageChris Savage Parallax Engineering Posts: 14,406
    edited 2007-03-10 19:04
    The Temperature Probe is an industrial K-Type temperature probe with a heat coil around the end. I don’t know where it came from. One of our employees had a friend/relative who cleared out a warehouse and brought us some equipment. So it just happened to be lying around. BOM = Bill Of Materials. Take care.

    ▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
    Chris Savage
    Parallax Tech Support
  • Twisted PairTwisted Pair Posts: 177
    edited 2007-03-10 20:03
    If I machined a Probe tip for use on the thermocouple lead, would that create any temperature reading problems ?
  • Chris SavageChris Savage Parallax Engineering Posts: 14,406
    edited 2007-03-10 21:45
    You’ve got me on that one…I’ll leave that one who has more experience with industrial temperature control. As it stands I really wanted to take some time to re-write the code completely before posting it, but there have been quite a few requests for the information so updates had to wait.

    ▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
    Chris Savage
    Parallax Tech Support
  • Twisted PairTwisted Pair Posts: 177
    edited 2007-03-11 12:46
    I'll machine a Probe Tip and try it. I'll post the results upon completion. Question > The SLED4C Display shown in the Solder Pot Controller·Schematics is no longer Available but the SLED-C4 is. The SLED4C has six connection points and the SLED-C4 has only five with some of the connections named differently. Where do Pins 5, 6 and 7 of the BS2-IC Chip connect on the new SLED-C4 Display ? See attachment....
    612 x 792 - 41K
  • Chris SavageChris Savage Parallax Engineering Posts: 14,406
    edited 2007-03-11 15:48
    I hadn't realized they discontinued that display. As you can see from the prototype the same display can be built from an MC14489 IC. If you choose to use the new display it only needs one I/O line since it is asynchronous serial rather than synchronous serial as was the previous display. So instead of using SHIFTOUT to talk to it you would use SEROUT. Take care.

    ▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
    Chris Savage
    Parallax Tech Support
  • Twisted PairTwisted Pair Posts: 177
    edited 2007-03-11 17:48
    Any suggestions where I might find an SLED4C ?


    Thanks, Twisted Pair....
  • Twisted PairTwisted Pair Posts: 177
    edited 2007-03-11 18:36
    Is this the Encoder I need for use with the Solder Pot Controller ?

    Thanks....
    1120 x 544 - 114K
  • Chris SavageChris Savage Parallax Engineering Posts: 14,406
    edited 2007-03-11 19:58
    Interestingly this turns out to be a 36-position encoder...I thought we ordered 16 position...In any event here is the datasheet for the one we used...It seems to be the first one you put the arrow toward.· Bear in mind reading the encoder was exactly why we used the BS2px...It takes time to read these and calculate everything.· Take care.

    http://lgrws01.grayhill.com/web/images/ProductImages/I-51-52.pdf


    ▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
    Chris Savage
    Parallax Tech Support
  • Twisted PairTwisted Pair Posts: 177
    edited 2007-03-11 21:33
    Chris, I'm using a BS2P-24 chip in my project. I would like to use the components that you used so that the Code and Hardware work together without any modifications. My Questions are > (1) Will my BS2P-24 work as per Code and Schematics without any modifications ? (2) Is the SLED4C Display still available and from what source (Part Number) ? (3) What Encoder(Part Number) is used without modification to the Code, compatiable with the BS2P-24 ?


    Thanks Chris....
  • Chris SavageChris Savage Parallax Engineering Posts: 14,406
    edited 2007-03-11 22:30
    There’s no reason you couldn’t use the BS2p24 in your situation…There’s nothing else that is affected. As for the display you might want to contact Rentron…Maybe they have a spare or some extra stock of it. I was able to find the web page for it by searching…

    ▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
    Chris Savage
    Parallax Tech Support
  • Twisted PairTwisted Pair Posts: 177
    edited 2007-03-11 22:35
    Ok Chris, Thanks for all the Info....

    Twisted Pair....
  • sparknesssparkness Posts: 1
    edited 2007-03-13 14:59
    this is a great solder pot on the cheap , just what I have been looking for. 1 question about smt fab, I guess when you make the modules you completly submerge for a period and remove? I thought a solder pot would only be good for thru hole parts and bottom side soldering.
    --mark
  • Chris SavageChris Savage Parallax Engineering Posts: 14,406
    edited 2007-03-13 16:42
    Hello,

    The Solder Pot is only used for the through hole stuff…BASIC Stamp Modules for example…The leads are dipped on each side. The SMD stuff runs through another machine (conveyer/oven). Take care.

    ▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
    Chris Savage
    Parallax Tech Support
  • SSteveSSteve Posts: 808
    edited 2007-03-14 22:21
    Any chance of seeing a picture of the bottom of the board? I'd like to see how the connections are made (e.g. between the wires coming from P0 & P1 to the header).

    I'm putting together a project using the SX48 proto board and I wasn't completely clear on how to connect things. For the time being, I wire wrapped things together. I'm thinking that I'll just put some solder on the wire wrap connections when I'm ready to finalize the project.

    ▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
    OS-X: because making Unix user-friendly was easier than debugging Windows

    links:
    My band's website
    Our album on the iTunes Music Store
  • Chris SavageChris Savage Parallax Engineering Posts: 14,406
    edited 2007-03-14 22:35
    Steve,

    I never took a picture of the bottom…The schematic shows the connections though. I am only using P0, not P1…P0 is going directly to the PING))) Data Line. Take care.

    ▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
    Chris Savage
    Parallax Tech Support
  • SSteveSSteve Posts: 808
    edited 2007-03-15 06:31
    Chris Savage (Parallax) said...
    Steve,

    I never took a picture of the bottom…The schematic shows the connections though. I am only using P0, not P1…P0 is going directly to the PING))) Data Line. Take care.

    I think you're thinking of the Garage Parking Assistant--I was looking at the Solder Pot Controller. But that doesn't really matter. What I really want to find out is how you connect things on a proto board (don't forget--I'm just a software guysmile.gif). I was using the P0 and P1 on the Solder Pot Controller as examples. Do you use wire wrap or something else?

    Thanks,
    -Steve

    ▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
    OS-X: because making Unix user-friendly was easier than debugging Windows

    links:
    My band's website
    Our album on the iTunes Music Store
  • Chris SavageChris Savage Parallax Engineering Posts: 14,406
    edited 2007-03-15 14:19
    Steve,

    You are correct…I was in the wrong thread…Wire-wrapping…Ah I would be showing off my age…I haven’t done that since 1997! Anyway, to answer your question directly the Super Carrier Board already has traces connecting certain points on the board as well as two power busses. It’s kind of hard to see but if you looked closely at the board (large view) or at the schematic you could see where traces connect. I try to place components such that they complete circuits by default. But in the case of the Solder Pot controller I had a lot of connections so if you look at the board you will see standard 22 gauge wire jumpers I created to connect circuits. That is all I use. I have seen some people use wire-wrapping wire underneath. The problem is that you have to be very careful with that. The insulation is very thin and delicate and the heat from a soldering iron melts is quickly. I have seen many a board like that fail prematurely due to shorts in the wiring.

    ▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
    Chris Savage
    Parallax Tech Support
  • SSteveSSteve Posts: 808
    edited 2007-03-15 15:56
    Ok, now I see. I didn't initially notice the connected points on the Super Carrier. But the SX 48 Proto board doesn't have those (likewise the Propeller Proto board). But I think I'm getting this thread too far off-topic so I'll do some searching for answers and if I don't find any I'll start a new thread in the Sandbox.

    ▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
    OS-X: because making Unix user-friendly was easier than debugging Windows

    links:
    My band's website
    Our album on the iTunes Music Store
  • Chris SavageChris Savage Parallax Engineering Posts: 14,406
    edited 2007-03-15 16:28
    Steve,

    Got to the following web page and click on the larger picture view. Also check out the Schematic lower on the page. I have always found the Super Carrier Board to be great for small one-off projects because it includes most of the necesseties and makes it easy to add several external components. If you look closely at the third picture of the Solder Pot Controller opened up you can see where we cut out an exact hole for the DB9 to protrude through the cabinet. This allows for easy code updates without having to take the unit apart. Take care.

    http://www.parallax.com/detail.asp?product_id=27130





    ▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
    Chris Savage
    Parallax Tech Support
  • Twisted PairTwisted Pair Posts: 177
    edited 2007-03-17 19:01
    Powered up the Solder Pot Controller today. Wired as per the Schematics in this forum. Using the BS2P-24 chip. Ran the code used in this forum except used the BS2P code to allow for programming. I can't get the led to turn off when applying heat to the thermocouple lead regardless of where the encoder is set. This led indicates when the SSR is on or off and should go off when the temp set point is equal to or over the set point. I'm wondering if the problem is in the way the code was run when going from the PX to P chip. Any suggestions would be appreciated....

    Thanks,

    Twisted Pair....
  • Chris SavageChris Savage Parallax Engineering Posts: 14,406
    edited 2007-03-17 22:43
    Twisted Pair,

    Did you change the Set Point range from 450-550 to the range you’re going to be in? Did the displayed temperature increase as you applied heat?

    ▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
    Chris Savage
    Parallax Tech Support
  • Twisted PairTwisted Pair Posts: 177
    edited 2007-03-17 22:51
    Chris,
    Didn't change anything other than when running the program to the BS2P. As far as displaying the Temp, I haven't connected the one wire SLED-C4 because I'm unsure of what or where to change from Shiftin to Serout, so I cant see anything, Just watching the Led....

    Twisted Pair....
  • Chris SavageChris Savage Parallax Engineering Posts: 14,406
    edited 2007-03-17 23:49
    Well if you didn't change anything then there are two possibilities...One is that your source is not within the 450 degree to 550 degree range. Another possibility is that since location 0, 1 is not initialized the Set Temp is in an indeterminate state...The temperature could be 10000 degrees in that case. You need to initialize the Set Temp, which means either you will need to see what you're doing or you will need to write a small program first to set the EEPROM locations 0,1 with a WORD variable of the set temperature. The following should work to initialize it to 100 degrees. Then reload the main program and try again...

    setTemp VAR Word
    SetTemp = 100
    WRITE 0, Word setTemp

    ▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
    Chris Savage
    Parallax Tech Support
  • Twisted PairTwisted Pair Posts: 177
    edited 2007-03-18 00:08
    I didn't realize that the encoder would allow that temp range. If I could get the SLED-C4 up and running, my problem would go away. I read the Shiftin, Shiftout. Serin and Serout, but just can't make it work. Any suggestions as far as getting it done ?

    Thanks once again Chris,

    Twisted Pair....
  • Chris SavageChris Savage Parallax Engineering Posts: 14,406
    edited 2007-04-10 20:59
    As promised here is the code that uses your display to show the Current Temp/Set Temp in the Solder Pot Controller. This is very simple in the sense that since the SLED-C4 display only provides 4 digits and 4 decimal points there is no degrees symbol. So the temperature will always read xxx.0 but you get the idea. Remember, you also need the KTablePos.bpx to run this code.· Take care.

    ▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
    Chris Savage
    Parallax Tech Support
Sign In or Register to comment.