Charge rate specifications CYCLON batteries
metron9
Posts: 1,100
I nee some help understanding how to read 2.5C10 is that 10 colulombs, what is the table for 40min at 2.5C10 inrush current in milliamps? 250?
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Think Inside the box first and if that doesn't work..
Re-arrange what's inside the box then...
Think outside the BOX!
Comments
That is just a guess.
Bean.
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the "C" in this case is Capacity
I believe Q is the symbol for coulombs..??
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Steve
"Inside each and every one of us is our one, true authentic swing. Something we was born with. Something that's ours and ours alone. Something that can't be learned... something that's got to be remembered."
Hmm. To me, what is really interesting here is the term INRUSH.
Traditionally, charge rates are a fraction of the AH capacity.
I had thought that a one to one rate was a physical barrier.
A higher rate could be a huge convience with 'opportunistic charging' from wind or solar power.
I guess technically any charge rate might be inrush, but the term is usually used with identifying problems of huge current surges in unseen directions when something is intially turned on or shut down. The implications are that thoughtful design is required to avoid damage down the line. Supercapacitors seem to be a case in the extreme [noparse][[/noparse]along with large capacitor banks].
Is "inrush" a misnomer in this context?
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"If you want more fiber, eat the package.· Not enough?· Eat the manual."········
They often doesn't last as many charge-cycles as batteries charged slowly. It all comes down to what your priority is.
RC-car enthusiasts use them extensively. After all, they can't drive their cars while the pack is being recharged.
(Some even has two packs, one being recharged while the other is in the car. If you ever wondered what 'hot-swapping' meant, you should try to swap the packs for them... )
I have no idea what the '10' is for, but it definitely isn't for 'one tenth' capacity.
(Generally, it has been an accepted formula that a .1C charge for 15hours will completely recharge a battery, which makes the 1.5C at one hour sound like a feasible result, if it can take the heat... )
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I suspect the battery manufacturers love this. It is an ideal market. People buy a lot of expensive batteries thinking they are economizing with recharge, but actually shortening the recharge batteries life as much as possible via thermal and electro-chemical stresses.
How does the useful life compare to using non-recharging batteries in terms of $$$$?
And how does it compare to higher capacity, slow recharge lead acid?
I suspect it is nearly impossible to find out.· But Lead Gel Cells can go for 10 years on trickle and the average auto battery is good for 3 or more years.
And yes the really primary charge·limit is at that rate which the battery explodes.· So don't go there.
The secondary limit is the high end of a curve that represents having any useful life.
The whole thing about batteries is that the technology is a bit voodoo. You can never truly know if the manufacturer chooses to provide the optimal chemistry incremental to costs or they just attempt to create consumers that are so confused that they adhear to a brand loyalty out of fear and frustration. So many of the new battery technologies appear to be fluf to make us dependent on a higher unit cost.· That is why I prefer low technology generics whenever the device isn't mobile or can be fed a trickle charge instead.
The last thing I want to do is have to constantly juggle batteries and chargers only to find out I am actually wasting money. My digital camera does that with a $60 Lithium battery.· I would have loved to use Alkaline AA cells.
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"If you want more fiber, eat the package.· Not enough?· Eat the manual."········
Post Edited (Kramer) : 12/15/2006 3:52:38 PM GMT
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Think Inside the box first and if that doesn't work..
Re-arrange what's inside the box then...
Think outside the BOX!
I read what you posted at that web page and what i got out this is if you want max· battery life then you would have
to·keep these·all in mind when using these batterys· heat, rate of charge, overcharging, undercharging, depth of discharge constant voltage charging, constant current charging etc... and how· fast your· discharge rate is at what temp and so on
··
If you want to use these battery·HARD then you will NOT·have LONG LIVE out of them
If· you·LONG LIFE then you must NOT over heat them or over charge them or under charge them or over discharge
That· might be too many thing to think about if you what i mean
I want OK LIFE that is BASED cost vs how much shorter life not following the rules
·i want to get out of these battery
Here is my two cents worth of thoughts in to this matter and might not be worth much···
Thanks for sharing that info on batterys
San
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I am leaning toward SLA 6V batteries for the solar project I am doing. A small 1.3AH or the 4.5AH size is only 5 bucks. AGM sealed battery like used for battery backups.
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Think Inside the box first and if that doesn't work..
Re-arrange what's inside the box then...
Think outside the BOX!
You can go to this web site and look at there "Size F" metal nicad batterys 13 amp hour battery
that is not a misprint
I have never bought from this company before
www.all-battery.com/index.asp
Once you open·the page then go to· Advanced Search then look in· located in category look for size F
I have bought from Sunn Batterys before and have bought the 7 amp hour Size F
they are a littte prices but they are good batterys and they last the ones i have are over 3 years old
If you want the part # i can give that to you
I hope this helps you in what you want to do
Sam
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