Best Way to Fab a PCB

crgwbr

Hey Everyone,
I've been working on a few projects for a company that are finally ( ) ready for production.· Quantities won't be to big (maybe 25 a year).· We can have ExpressPCB do it for around $7.00 a board (if we buy 50), but I'd like to FAB the boards myself.· Is it possible to get good quality from stuff like tonar transfer?· If so, how?· The smallest traces are 20 mil, the board is 2.5 x 3 inches.· I've heard the stuff from "Pulsar" works well, does it?

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NerdMaster
For
Life

Bean

One big problem with making your own boards is how to do plated-thru holes ?

I have used the Pulsar kit and I like it alot. It works very well.
Now I have an LPKF PCB milling machine, so I don't have to mess with the chemicals and stuff.

Let me know if you interested in me making you a small quantity of boards (10-12).

Bean.

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Cheap used 4-digit LED display with driver IC·www.hc4led.com

Low power SD Data Logger www.sddatalogger.com
SX-Video Display Modules www.sxvm.com

"People who are willing to trade their freedom for·security deserve neither and will lose both." Benjamin Franklin


Post Edited (Bean (Hitt Consulting)) : 10/18/2006 4:18:28 PM GMT

Baer

I use the Pulsar TTS at work for prototypes and it works very well, provided you don't rush things.

Of course, you are limited to single or doublesided boards - no multilayer! I try to minimize through-plated holes by using component holes as vias and solder the component on both sides. If that's not possible, I use very small holes and thin wires (e.g. strands of AWG22 or 24 stranded wire) as my connection between sides.

Use clean blanks and sufficient heat to transfer the patterns (I bought one of the laminators recommended by Pulsar and modified it according to their instructions - it works like a charm and the modification was easy!).

For best results also use the GreenTRF to fill in all the imperfections. I found that it improves the results dramatically and is well worth the money and extra time.

Baer

crgwbr

Thanks, I going to buy the Pulsar stuff in a few weeks. What is the modefacation you are talking about, Baer. I didn't see anything about that with the "Creative Lamenater." Do you have a link to an instruction set or anything like that?

Thanks

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NerdMaster
For
Life

Bean

The laminator that comes with the kit does not require modification, but only does 0.031" thick boards.
You need to modify a different laminator to do 0.062" thick boards.

Bean.

▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
Cheap used 4-digit LED display with driver IC·www.hc4led.com

Low power SD Data Logger www.sddatalogger.com
SX-Video Display Modules www.sxvm.com

"People who are willing to trade their freedom for·security deserve neither and will lose both." Benjamin Franklin
·

stamptrol

I use the Pulsar materials for prototype boards and have been quite pleased so far. Really pays to use the Creative Laminator....available in the kit or at your local big-box office-supply store.

Also, the use of the etchant by sponging as opposed to soaking is highly recommended----saves time and chemicals.

My only caution is to not try to get ultra thin traces; at least until you've found a really good photocopier that gives consistent solid coverage. I agree that the green overlay material is worth the effort.

Cheers

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Tom Sisk

http://www.siskconsult.com
·

crgwbr

Thanks Guys,

The place I work for has, like a $5000 copier, so thin traces shouldn't be a problem.

Thanks Again

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NerdMaster
For
Life

Baer

Regarding the Laminator:

When I got into it, Pulsar recommended buying a GBC HS200 or HS300 Laminator. Since I use 0.062" boards, I did need to modify it. The step-by-step instructions from Pulsar tell you how to do it and no extra parts are needed. You just have to switch a couple of parts to be able to handle the extra thickness and reduce the speed a bit. It was really very easy and worked perfectly at first try.

I usually run the boards through 2 or 3 times to make sure. You also have to give it a bit of time on start-up to make sure the temperature is high enough (a red light in the laminator goes off when you reach operating temperature).

Regards,

Baer

Baer

Further to my previous answer, here is the URL for the modification instructions for the H-200 (seems to be the same as the "HS200"):

http://www.pulsar.gs/PCB/a_Pages/4_Products/4d_Toner_Applicator/Toner_Applicator.html

You will need to download both, the instructions and the photos.

Baer