When to use what type of capacitor?
XNOR
Posts: 74
Greetings!
I am confused about all the different types of capacitors out there
(Mylar, Polyester, Ceramic, Monolithic Multilayer, Electrolytic,
Tantalum, Epoxy Dipped, Metallized, Silver Mica).
When does one use which type? What are the differences?
Thanks for any insight!
I am confused about all the different types of capacitors out there
(Mylar, Polyester, Ceramic, Monolithic Multilayer, Electrolytic,
Tantalum, Epoxy Dipped, Metallized, Silver Mica).
When does one use which type? What are the differences?
Thanks for any insight!
Comments
Thank you!
That's a very informative webpage!
But I think SMD capacitors (comes in Stripes) are missing, from the list (in which I am interested)
I just found a less lengthier version of this (including SMD), if some dont want to get into theoretical detail.
Types of Capacitors
Now these two articles are enough to get the decent knowledge about Capacitors.
There is also SMD aluminium electrolytics as well but they look almost identical to their through-hole counterpart, just with pads at the bottom rather than legs.
EDIT: Actually, Rame was probably just googling the subject and dredged it up. Or maybe he's trying to direct traffic to his link ...
Hand soldering of ceramics is a hap-hazard affair with tweezers and a mounted magnifying glass.
Leon,
Have you got a model name or link to product that you use?
I rarely would ever use an iron for SMD, I always use solder paste and toaster oven, always works, even 0603s are fine. Clean non-magnetic tweezers and room temperature solder paste in a syringe which I have loaded into a gun as it is much easier to dispense. Paste, load, check and realign, oven preheated, pop em in for 4 mins, and gently out to cool. Always works. Also I just run beads across pads for any fine pitch including Prop chips and it actually helps to smudge the Prop chip down as the reflow will suck up the bridging solder unless you panic and take it out before it is fully reflowed (don't). The same with resnets. I've posted plenty of "tips" (or non-tips, just ovens) like this over the years, don't know why anyone thinks it is hard or more complicated than that. You've seen my assembled boards, that's how they're done.
I use a second hand Model 200 power supply (old but cheap) and new handpiece and cartridges. That's the 200, not the SP200, which isn't as good.
It'll cost about £120. You will also need a handpiece holder and sponges.
It uses RF heating at 13.56 MHz.
Latest new equipment costs about £600.
This really helps to take my research in right direction. Oven soldering is new to me and will definitely fill some pages of my report regarding SMD capacitors
Although I m researching on SMDs but your expert opinions are welcome, on "What is currently going on w.r.t to advancement of SMD capacitors". I just want some input, rest i will search.
The number of layers that can economically be built into a multilayer ceramic chip capacitor has increased dramatically, leading to 100 uF ceramic chip capacitors...unheard of a few years ago. OTOH, one has to consider carefully the specific dielectric being used. Some ceramic dielectrics have terrible voltage coefficients such that at 100% of rated voltage, the capacitance has dropped to less than 10% of nominal.
Also, back in the day, the initial metallization layer used in ceramic chip cap construction was a precious metal alloy. Economics has forced the switch to a much cheaper nickel alloy, but that has exacerbated the voltage coefficient problem.
Bottom line is that nothing is perfect, and there is always research being done on better and cheaper materials and processes.
BTW I can hand solder (soldering iron, thin solder, flux pen, tweezers) SMD parts down to 0603 with no trouble at all. The 0402 are getting a little on the too small size, and be careful you don't sneeze.
But, I now have a nice IR Oven so boards look really good using solder paste and a stencil
Oh, and Jewellers Glasses to see when placing parts (by hand).
In fact I realized that at that scale building up SMD by hand is quicker and easier than messing with drilling holes in boards and poking wires through.
I'm not ready to go really small, if I need to mess with solder paste and a reflow oven it all gets to much around here.
Some decent tweezers for placement and a Jewellers Loupe for inspection are essential.