Looking Motor driver with PWM
TC
Posts: 1,019
This might sound a little dumb but I need to find A motor driver for 10 ( yes ten ) 80mm cooling fans .37A each. that has PWM control. all 10 fans are hooked together. I am looking for at least 4 step control ( 0%, 25%, 75%, and full speed) it must hook up to a BS2p, and handle 12V
thanks
TC
thanks
TC
Comments
You neglected to mention whether it's AC or DC? If it's DC the Parallax HB-25 should be able to handle that with it's eyes closed
The Parallax Part Number for the HB-25 is 29144, and additional information can be found on their web site..
Regards,
Bruce Bates
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Well well, I'm seeing things, three of them.
-Stanley Blystone
Moe,····· I am not that grate with electronics. and as I explaned to Bruse I cant aford to waste the BS2p's time controling the fans.
thanks for the replys
TC
That still doesn't disqualify the HB-25, but you may not need anything quite that sophisticated.
Regards,
Bruce Bates
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Thanks
TC
I think I have a good curcuit for you it is easy to build and cost very little. When I get home tonight I will post it on here for you. Also it will tie up the processor and has 0-100% control with 128 steps. To free up a pin for use on your fans you can take the wire from pin15 and run it directly to pin 1 on the 74HC132. Thi curcuit only uses 3 components minus the stamp and just use a mosfet big enough to handle your load.
Post Edited (bennettdan) : 7/28/2006 1:17:35 AM GMT
Thank you for the reply. I will try that out and I will let you know how it went
Are you building a battery charger?
No it is to cool my amplifiers. I am working on a little project that will monitor & control·my hole audio system and display it on Parallax's VFD display in my dash board, and the stamp is going·to control it all.
TC
To sense your temp use a thermistor they interface with the stamp with just the RCTIME comand.
TC
How is the PWM curcuit going?
Well I could not find a cheep motor driver. So I am going to try and build my own using a LMC555, a MOSFET, a shift-register. I have not worked with electronics for about 10 years and I hope I will be able to figure it out. And if I get it worked out I will place what I found here. Or I might use a BS1. I dont know what I am doing yet. But I would like to thank everyone who tryed to help.
TC
I think I would be better off using your curcuit. I am just blowing up parts (been aloooong time). but I do have a few questions if you could help
1) What value did you use for the AD5220 ?
2) Would R8 & R9 change if I change the IGBT to a IRF510 MOSFET (Have one laying around)?
3) should there be a restior between the 74HC132 & 4N25?
Thank you for all of your input and help
TC
Sorry about that it is an old diagram...
1)The AD5220 is a 10K same as the one in the WAM parts kit..I but mine from Digi-Key.
2)The value for R8 and R9 should work fine for you R9 can be less if the 4n25 starts to heat up, R9 makes the mosfet or IGBT turn off faster you can use a 10k for R9 if you wish.·Also if you plan to use a mosfet instead of a IGBT change the 15v going to the 4N25 to 12V.
3)Yes their should be a resistor between the 74HC132 and the 4N25 I use a 470ohm.
Sorry about the mistakes I will modify the schematic and repost it on the original (man that was a terriable schematic).
ALSO for the C2 try using a .1 instead of the .01 this will lower your frquency and shoul work better for your fan.
D1 needs to be able to handle your current so find a 10 amp if you use the If510
the D3 and D4 can be a 914 diode if you have them ....
you wont need the stiffening caps I dont believe...and dont use 144vdc to power the fans..LOL...lower it to 12v
The entire setup should only cost a few dollars to build and heasink the mosfet...and put it behind on of your fans to keep it cool if you have room..Good Luck.
I have some code to get you started when you get it built..hit me back
Post Edited (bennettdan) : 7/27/2006 11:45:01 AM GMT