trying to run MM5480 LED driver... giving up
pixlo
Posts: 6
this is my last ditch effort to ask for help on this problem.
i know very little about electronics and hoped that by following the amps and volts on the datasheet for the ins and outs on the MM5480 3.5 digit display driver, I could get it running by sending a 36bit shiftout, but i cant and I've been banging on it for three days straight.
HAS ANYONE WORKED WITH THESE DRIVERS BEFORE?
they are based on the MM5450/MM5451, I think, but they dont have an enable.
if you have and you would like to help, please respond. I have the feeling I'm not hooking it up right. i am a programmer, but not with picbasic.
i mean, whats the deal? do i need to hook capacitors up to the data and clock in or something? ive built the circuit on the brightness control like it said in the datasheet. I get the feeling the datasheet is not what i should be looking at for how to hook this up.
argh
i hate this.
-nick
Post Edited (pixlo) : 7/2/2006 8:31:21 PM GMT
i know very little about electronics and hoped that by following the amps and volts on the datasheet for the ins and outs on the MM5480 3.5 digit display driver, I could get it running by sending a 36bit shiftout, but i cant and I've been banging on it for three days straight.
HAS ANYONE WORKED WITH THESE DRIVERS BEFORE?
they are based on the MM5450/MM5451, I think, but they dont have an enable.
if you have and you would like to help, please respond. I have the feeling I'm not hooking it up right. i am a programmer, but not with picbasic.
i mean, whats the deal? do i need to hook capacitors up to the data and clock in or something? ive built the circuit on the brightness control like it said in the datasheet. I get the feeling the datasheet is not what i should be looking at for how to hook this up.
argh
i hate this.
-nick
Post Edited (pixlo) : 7/2/2006 8:31:21 PM GMT
Comments
·· On the contrary...The datasheet is definately needed for the connection.· Of course you have to know how to handle the BASIC Stamp side connections as well.· 3 days isn't much for people on this forum.· Not everyone checks in that often so you could be giving up prematurely.
·· On the other hand I think my fellow Tech Support Staff would agree I have quite a considerable collection of parts covering many areas of electronics, and yet I have never heard of these drivers, nor do I have any.· The electronics shops that are local do not seem to stock it or I would try to help you.
·· I guess what I am saying is hang in there.· Also, maybe you should take a break from this for a few days and start fresh after your head is cleared.· That works for me.· Sometimes if I can't get something working I take a break for a while and just hit it from a different angle.· Sometimes that's all that's needed.· I hope this helps.· Take care.
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Chris Savage
Parallax Tech Support
csavage@parallax.com
SHIFTOUT 14, 15, MSBFIRST [noparse][[/noparse]%1111111111111111\16, %1111111111111111\16, %1111\4]
puts big, like byte-sized spaces where each comma is. so the above looks like so on the scope:
(data top, clock bottom)
but the clock ticks for each 16bit string sent by shiftout- it doesnt tick in the spaces between the data sends.
I dont know how this would effect the MM5480's data and clock ins.
The MM5480 doesnt use an enable or load pin as far as I can tell. This is weird because it is based on the MM5450/51. One of these, the 50 or 51 HAS an enable in and one does not. the one that doesnt expects a high start bit and then 35 bits. It latches when it gets a high bit on the 35th bit.
I found an interesting site where a few guys were using MM5450s to build a cockpit simulator:
www.viperpit.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=38&highlight=&sid=f0547ea6df1c2c7a7a41fa20ddf374f8
they post the following wiring diagram:
I thought this diagram strange as the datasheet specs a max power supply current of 7mA. I see no resistors or voltage regulators on the above wiring diagram. I've hooked resistors and an LM317 voltage regulator to a 9V battery for the brightness control (max V 4.3V, max I .75mA) I tried hooking my MM5480 up to a bare 5V and 6V regulated supply and probably destroyed it doing this, but I didnt smell any magic smoke, so I hope for the best. I have another one as a backup. I've also hooked up a pot and .001uF cap to the pot as listed in the MM5480 datasheet (see MM5480N datasheet). But I dont know if it works unless I have good data running to it.
So... I cant help but think I have it hooked up right. I'll post a photo and diagram later tonight so you all can see it.
I really think the problem is with my code, simply:
DO
SHIFTOUT 14, 15, MSBFIRST [noparse][[/noparse]%1111111111111111\16, %1111111111111111\16, %1111\4]
LOOP
END
I have three LEDs hooked up to the driver, pins 12, 11 and 10.
I've put together a quick diagram. The values on the resistors aren't definite, I've done some quick calculations to get what I think i needed. for example, the power needs to be 7mA, I remember my multimeter tellimg me it was something like 136mA so I added resistors until I got it just below 7mA. I've put a 1k resistor here because 7V (approx what i get when i meter the power) 7V/.007 = 1000.
Im getting better at this, but still a newbie by a long shot.
The resistors on the LM317 are again what fits into the formula on the datasheet: Vout = 1.25 * ( 1 + R2 / R1). I want 4V as the brightness control takes between 3 and 4.3V.
I cant remember what the pot's resistance is. It's the pot that ships with the HomeWork board.
Oh, and my LEDs on the schematic above are backwards.
Thanks so much. I'm sticking with it. It's just so frustrating getting into something new sometimes.
-nick
Post Edited (pixlo) : 7/3/2006 9:09:36 PM GMT
·· One thing you could do to get the bits there with no difference in timing would be to write a loop to "bit-bang" the data out to the device.· That will at least help you figure out if that is what's causing the problem.· Just an idea.
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Chris Savage
Parallax Tech Support
csavage@parallax.com
after a ton of time googling, I got things working.
First big mistake: I assumed the anodes of the LEDs connected to the output pins and the cathodes to ground. WRONG. Once I turned my LEDs around, everything lit up, but flickered quite a bit which I thought had to do with my code, but it didn't.
I had two batteries hooked up to the circuit and I'm sure it was causing all kinds of trouble on the driver chip. I hope I didnt fry my microcontroller- dont think I did tho, as after hooking Vss and Vdd from the stamp breadboard to the MM5480, everything worked EXACTLY how it's supposed to.
I am using the MM5480 to close triac switches through optoisolators to turn on and off segments of electroluminescent wire. With this wire I am making giant (4'x2') 16 segment displays (five of them).
If I finish it I will certainly post photos, code and schematics.
The code I am using: (this lights up the first and third LED)
' {$STAMP BS2}
' {$PBASIC 2.5}
OUTPUT 4
OUTPUT 5
LOW 4
LOW 5
DO
SHIFTOUT 4, 5, 1, [noparse][[/noparse]%1010100000000000\16,%0000000000000000\16, %0000\4]
LOOP
END
·
·· See, you take a break, clear your head, and find your answer.· Sometimes stuff is obvious, and sometimes it's not.· At least you learned something from it.· Take care.
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Chris Savage
Parallax Tech Support
csavage@parallax.com