Three legs = all the same is not a valid assumption (not where I'm sitting.)
The datasheet you linked to showed an application circuit, anyway·-- with a pull-up resistor on the OUTPUT, along with·another resistor on the +V with a cap (looks like a low-pass filter, probably disregard that much for your purpose.)
Try bennettdan's idea with a TV remote.· But, still, you really need the voltmeter.
im not sure what any of that stuff is you guys are talking about, i didnt think it was going to be difficult or anything lol,· the 555 timer? the only supplied i have are the things from the kit WAM and a mosfet. what do i need to buy to make this work?
P8~(Brown-Black-Red)->anode lead
VSS-> Cathode Lead
for the IR
now after that i wrote code that folows
irDetect VAR Bit
DO
FREQOUT 7,1,38000
irDetect = IN6
DEBUG HOME, "irDetect = ", BIN1 irDetect
PAUSE 100
LOOP
You should post your current code. In this code, you are sending FREQOUT to pin 7 which is connected to the IR detector.
I don't know about the Radio Shack IR detector, but the one that Parallax sells doesn't need any external components. It connects directly to Vss, Vdd, and the input pin. Take a look at chapter 20 in the StampWorks manual (downloadable from www.parallax.com/detail.asp?product_id=27220).
I don't think a voltmeter is going to work for measuring the output of the IR detector, you probably need an oscilloscope.
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well thats the thing.. im thinking it just does but im not sure about the resistors? i think it just goes vdd vss and the input pin... im ganna talk to the radioshack guys and see if theres anything else about it... but im guessing it shouldnt be rocket sceince for the damn thinfg
there is my code as of now, like i said the Infrared is working for sure because i connected a LED that i can see with my eyes and it flashes so its flashing...
I think when PJ ALLEN is talking about using a meter he means find the two pins connected to the internal diode then you would know the pinout. A 555 timer can be found at most radioshacks also you can use a universal remote for a TV on most recievers. This 555 curcuit will give you about 38k to your IR led at about 50% duty.
Also here is a good websight on 555 Timers http://home.cogeco.ca/~rpaisley4/LM555.html
Post Edited (bennettdan) : 6/24/2006 6:08:38 AM GMT
okay but what im getting at is what will this do for me... i know that my LED is flashing because i hooked a normal led to it and it flashed... so i know my led is flashing thats in question. the only thing is im hooking the reciever module up wrong, i know this because i used code from the parallax website. now it might not be right becasue im using the three pin receiver instead of the two but i dunno. ill talk to the radioshack guys and see if they know whats up with the IR Receiver.
Given the unknown nature of this Detector and the invisible characteristic of Infra-red "light", the use of a voltmeter would be highly beneficial.· That's the only way that "we" are going to find out what the deal with it IS.· We would also be able to tell if the IR-LED is turning on or not (here, too, you can't tell by looking at it.)
The radio-shack guys·are not (emphasis NOT)·going to pull your bacon out of the fire.
[noparse][[/noparse]Side note -- if you have a webcam or a video-cam, they can often "see" I-R and it shows up on the monitor as like a white-blue light. ]
PJ Allen said...
[noparse][[/noparse]Side note -- if you have a webcam or a video-cam, they can often "see" I-R and it shows up on the monitor as like a white-blue light. ]
I can also see the IR on my digital still camera.
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Let's slow down for a second, and take a deep breath. One thing we don't have at present is a copy of the most recent test program. It has changed a number of times along the way since the beginning of this thread, so it might be wise to get two things:
1. A copy of the test program as it's presently written.
2. A simple SKETCH (rather than a verbalization) of what the circuitry looks like.
Then we'll go on from there. Since we don't have datasheets (apparently) for the I/R transmitter and I/R receiver, we are hard pressed to say they are a MATCHED PAIR!
One other thing. According to previous messages (if I've read them correctly) the I/R transmitter presently has a 1K ("brown-black-red") resistor connected to it. Here are the specs from the Radio Shack web site for that I/R LED:
Model 276-0143 - Voltage 1.2 VDC, Current 29 mA
Presuming it's being fed by 5 VDC, shouldn't there be a 130 ohm resistor in series with it, not IK ohms? I'm just a software guy, so I don't know how that going to impact anything, and PLEASE check my figures!
The resistor is to limit the current through the LED. The Stamp pin, like most CMOS outputs, is designed to supply 10-20 ma max. and the resistor should limit the current to probably 20ma. 5V - 1.2V = 3.8V. Roughly, that gives a current of 3ma with a 1K resistor which is quite reasonable. I would probably use no smaller than a 220 ohm series resistor. Keep in mind that, if you're driving several LEDs or other "high" current devices, there's an upper limit on the total current output of the Stamp and on each set of output pins (0-7 and 8-15).
· I have tested one of these radioshack ir modules (276-640) with a Vcr remote control.· It has a normally high output, with or without a pull-up.· · Looking at the output with an oscillscope I see low-going pulses with button pushes.· So, you need to be looking for zeros.·
· The outputs have sharper corners with a 4.7K pull-up.
okay so you bought one qand tested it your self... what type of resitor should i be using for the OUT? and how do you know what to tune the remote to? i have a UNIversal remote just dunno what i need to set it to.
· Tuning, what tuning?· No tuning, just doing.· What, you have a remote with a freq adjust?· Press the PLAY button or something, for crying out loud, whatever'll work.· [noparse][[/noparse]Don't make me come over there.] · I suppose that a 1K resistor between the output and the STAMP's input should suffice.· Don't use the FREQOUT part of the program if you're using the vcr remote. · Use P15.
' {$STAMP BS2}
' {$PBASIC 2.5}
irDetect VAR Bit
DO ·irDetect = IN15 ·DEBUG HOME, "irDetect = ", BIN1 irDetect ·PAUSE·200
LOOP
In fact, here's a program that I like a whole lot better:
' {$STAMP BS2}
' {$PBASIC 2.5}
irDetect VAR Bit
INPUT 15
Check:
FREQOUT 14,1,38000
irDetect = IN15
DEBUG "No infra-red emission", BIN1 irDetect,CR
PAUSE 50
IF irDetect = 0 THEN GOTO IRdone
GOTO Check
IRdone:
DEBUG "Infra-Red emission Detected"
END
PJ ALLEN , the LED is in wrong my bad I will change it and upload it tonight I drew it late last night after work. Also did your IR from the shack care What code you had in the TV remote?
Willthiswork89 I built a simular 555 curcuit to test IR projects, I just suggested you use and outside source of IR so you could focus on makeing just the reciever work and know the code is not a problem.
The radioshack IR receiver module "doesn't care" -- it's looking for 38-kHz center-frequency and results the data stream (intelligence) received from the remote.·
If you want to use that first program, not my program, you need to change that PAUSE to a lot smaller number to increase the sample rate, or it'll seem to work intermittently (it's not, it doesn't go looking often/fast enough as it is.)
I just made mine so that once it sees I-R, it cashes out.· Somebody could modify it to increment a counter.
im just trying to get the led working, i used my digital camera and looked and the IR isnt flashing, so i got a AAA battery and put a resitor on the positive and connected it directly to the IR and it turned on... so i thought it was maybe the port damaged but i replaced the IR with a normal LED and it flashed on the same circuit. somthing isnt right?
alright guys for the record i solved this puzzle, somthing was the matter with the LED flashing, come to find out the IN stays high until it detects the frequency then it turns low. heres the code im using... thanks for the help guys i owe you all...
' {$STAMP BS2}
' {$PBASIC 2.5}
irDetect VAR Bit
DO
FREQOUT 15,1,38000
irDetect = IN14
IF irDetect = 0 THEN
HIGH 13
PAUSE 100
ELSE
LOW 13
ENDIF
LOOP
again thank you guys your life savers...one question though... if im not mistaken it doesnt detect EVERYTHING because the frequency drops from the distance it needs to go...so since this IR detector only detects a frequency of 38k how can i make it detect things from a farther distance? thanks
More distance with greater IRED current, possible use of lenses/optics.
If you look at the program that I made you will see that I have irDetect=0, I also mentioned this fact in my write-up featuring the pin-out drawing of the I-R Module.· Cripes!
{$STAMP BS2}
' {$PBASIC 2.5}
freqSelect VAR Nib
irFrequency VAR Word
irDetect VAR Bit
distance VAR Nib
roll VAR Nib
DO
FOR roll = 0 TO 4
LOW roll
NEXT
roll = 0
distance = 0
FOR freqSelect = 0 TO 4
LOOKUP freqSelect, [noparse][[/noparse]37500, 38250, 39500, 40500, 41500] , irFrequency
FREQOUT 15, 1, irFrequency
irDetect = IN14
distance = distance + irDetect
DEBUG CRSRXY,4, (freqSelect + 3), DEC5 irFrequency
DEBUG CRSRXY,11,freqSelect + 3
IF (irDetect = 0) THEN DEBUG "Yes" ELSE DEBUG "NO "
PAUSE 100
NEXT
DEBUG CR,
"
", CR,
"Zone ", DEC1 distance
FOR roll = 0 TO 4
IF(distance = 5) THEN
distance = distance - 1
ENDIF
IF(roll = distance) THEN
HIGH roll
PAUSE 500
ENDIF
NEXT
LOOP
my new code it works amazing. i was proud of my self for this one...well the LEDS at least [noparse]:)[/noparse]
haha yes it was i nthe wrong one i duno how i ended up doing that
Comments
The datasheet you linked to showed an application circuit, anyway·-- with a pull-up resistor on the OUTPUT, along with·another resistor on the +V with a cap (looks like a low-pass filter, probably disregard that much for your purpose.)
Try bennettdan's idea with a TV remote.· But, still, you really need the voltmeter.
Post Edited (PJ Allen) : 6/24/2006 3:25:30 AM GMT
I don't know about the Radio Shack IR detector, but the one that Parallax sells doesn't need any external components. It connects directly to Vss, Vdd, and the input pin. Take a look at chapter 20 in the StampWorks manual (downloadable from www.parallax.com/detail.asp?product_id=27220).
I don't think a voltmeter is going to work for measuring the output of the IR detector, you probably need an oscilloscope.
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OS-X: because making Unix user-friendly was easier than debugging Windows
links:
My band's website
Our album on the iTunes Music Store
' {$PBASIC 2.5}
irDetect VAR Bit
DO
FREQOUT 14,1,38000
irDetect = IN15
DEBUG HOME, "irDetect = ", BIN1 irDetect
PAUSE 100
LOOP
there is my code as of now, like i said the Infrared is working for sure because i connected a LED that i can see with my eyes and it flashes so its flashing...
Also here is a good websight on 555 Timers
http://home.cogeco.ca/~rpaisley4/LM555.html
Post Edited (bennettdan) : 6/24/2006 6:08:38 AM GMT
is your LED/IRED backward in that drawing?
w.t.w.,
Given the unknown nature of this Detector and the invisible characteristic of Infra-red "light", the use of a voltmeter would be highly beneficial.· That's the only way that "we" are going to find out what the deal with it IS.· We would also be able to tell if the IR-LED is turning on or not (here, too, you can't tell by looking at it.)
The radio-shack guys·are not (emphasis NOT)·going to pull your bacon out of the fire.
[noparse][[/noparse]Side note -- if you have a webcam or a video-cam, they can often "see" I-R and it shows up on the monitor as like a white-blue light. ]
▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
OS-X: because making Unix user-friendly was easier than debugging Windows
links:
My band's website
Our album on the iTunes Music Store
Let's slow down for a second, and take a deep breath. One thing we don't have at present is a copy of the most recent test program. It has changed a number of times along the way since the beginning of this thread, so it might be wise to get two things:
1. A copy of the test program as it's presently written.
2. A simple SKETCH (rather than a verbalization) of what the circuitry looks like.
Then we'll go on from there. Since we don't have datasheets (apparently) for the I/R transmitter and I/R receiver, we are hard pressed to say they are a MATCHED PAIR!
Reagrds,
Bruce Bates
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<!--StartFragment -->
One other thing. According to previous messages (if I've read them correctly) the I/R transmitter presently has a 1K ("brown-black-red") resistor connected to it. Here are the specs from the Radio Shack web site for that I/R LED:
Model 276-0143 - Voltage 1.2 VDC, Current 29 mA
Presuming it's being fed by 5 VDC, shouldn't there be a 130 ohm resistor in series with it, not IK ohms? I'm just a software guy, so I don't know how that going to impact anything, and PLEASE check my figures!
Regards,
Bruce Bates
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<!--StartFragment -->
· Looking at the output with an oscillscope I see low-going pulses with button pushes.· So, you need to be looking for zeros.·
· The outputs have sharper corners with a 4.7K pull-up.
· See attached drawing.
· I suppose that a 1K resistor between the output and the STAMP's input should suffice.· Don't use the FREQOUT part of the program if you're using the vcr remote.
· Use P15.
' {$STAMP BS2}
' {$PBASIC 2.5}
irDetect VAR Bit
DO
·irDetect = IN15
·DEBUG HOME, "irDetect = ", BIN1 irDetect
·PAUSE·200
LOOP
In fact, here's a program that I like a whole lot better:
' {$STAMP BS2} ' {$PBASIC 2.5} irDetect VAR Bit INPUT 15 Check: FREQOUT 14,1,38000 irDetect = IN15 DEBUG "No infra-red emission", BIN1 irDetect,CR PAUSE 50 IF irDetect = 0 THEN GOTO IRdone GOTO Check IRdone: DEBUG "Infra-Red emission Detected" ENDPost Edited (PJ Allen) : 6/24/2006 8:07:10 PM GMT
Willthiswork89 I built a simular 555 curcuit to test IR projects, I just suggested you use and outside source of IR so you could focus on makeing just the reciever work and know the code is not a problem.
The radioshack IR receiver module "doesn't care" -- it's looking for 38-kHz center-frequency and results the data stream (intelligence) received from the remote.·
If you want to use that first program, not my program, you need to change that PAUSE to a lot smaller number to increase the sample rate, or it'll seem to work intermittently (it's not, it doesn't go looking often/fast enough as it is.)
I just made mine so that once it sees I-R, it cashes out.· Somebody could modify it to increment a counter.
' {$STAMP BS2}
' {$PBASIC 2.5}
irDetect VAR Bit
DO
FREQOUT 15,1,38000
irDetect = IN14
IF irDetect = 0 THEN
HIGH 13
PAUSE 100
ELSE
LOW 13
ENDIF
LOOP
again thank you guys your life savers...one question though... if im not mistaken it doesnt detect EVERYTHING because the frequency drops from the distance it needs to go...so since this IR detector only detects a frequency of 38k how can i make it detect things from a farther distance? thanks
If you look at the program that I made you will see that I have irDetect=0, I also mentioned this fact in my write-up featuring the pin-out drawing of the I-R Module.· Cripes!
' {$PBASIC 2.5}
freqSelect VAR Nib
irFrequency VAR Word
irDetect VAR Bit
distance VAR Nib
roll VAR Nib
DO
FOR roll = 0 TO 4
LOW roll
NEXT
roll = 0
distance = 0
FOR freqSelect = 0 TO 4
LOOKUP freqSelect, [noparse][[/noparse]37500, 38250, 39500, 40500, 41500] , irFrequency
FREQOUT 15, 1, irFrequency
irDetect = IN14
distance = distance + irDetect
DEBUG CRSRXY,4, (freqSelect + 3), DEC5 irFrequency
DEBUG CRSRXY,11,freqSelect + 3
IF (irDetect = 0) THEN DEBUG "Yes" ELSE DEBUG "NO "
PAUSE 100
NEXT
DEBUG CR,
"
", CR,
"Zone ", DEC1 distance
FOR roll = 0 TO 4
IF(distance = 5) THEN
distance = distance - 1
ENDIF
IF(roll = distance) THEN
HIGH roll
PAUSE 500
ENDIF
NEXT
LOOP
my new code it works amazing. i was proud of my self for this one...well the LEDS at least [noparse]:)[/noparse]
haha yes it was i nthe wrong one i duno how i ended up doing that
'{$STAMP BS2} '{$PBASIC 2.5} freqSelect VAR Nib irFrequency VAR Word irDetect VAR Bit distance VAR Nib DO LOW OUTA distance = 0 FOR freqSelect = 0 TO 4 LOOKUP freqSelect, [noparse][[/noparse]37500, 38250, 39500, 40500, 41500] , irFrequency FREQOUT 15, 1, irFrequency irDetect = IN14 distance = distance + irDetect DEBUG CRSRXY,4, (freqSelect + 3), DEC5 irFrequency DEBUG CRSRXY,11,freqSelect + 3 IF (irDetect = 0) THEN DEBUG "Yes" ELSE DEBUG "NO " PAUSE 100 NEXT DEBUG CR, "--------- --------", CR, "Zone ", DEC1 distance FOR freqSelect = 0 TO 4 IF(distance = 5) THEN distance = distance - 1 ENDIF IF(freqSelect = distance) THEN HIGH freqSelect PAUSE 500 ENDIF NEXT LOOPGood job on getting it up and running.
Ryan
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Ryan Clarke
Parallax Tech Support
RClarke@Parallax.com