Making PCBs with a laser printer
PJMonty
Posts: 983
This webpage shows a simple way to make single sided boards using a laser printer, regular paper, and an iron to create the etch resist:
max8888.orcon.net.nz/pcbs.htm
max8888.orcon.net.nz/pcbs.htm
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Thanks,
PeterM
Comments
That 'iron-on' sometimes become a mess.
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"When all think alike, no one is thinking very much.' - Walter Lippmann (1889-1974)
······································································ Warm regards,····· G. Herzog [noparse][[/noparse]·黃鶴 ]·in Taiwan
Deno
Some of us have junked their inkjets(and bought cheap lasers instead because of their higher reliability and much lower running costs) and doesn't have the equipment necessary for photo-exposures.
PJmonty, Deno: Any particular heat-setting on the iron?
( *, **, or *** )
BTW: anyone else considering junking their inkjets should remember that they are a good source of precision parts(cogs, belts, wheels), several steppers AND matching driver-ICs...
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Don't visit my new website...
http://www.adamthree.com/images/gallery/mmc_io.jpg
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Luke
The perversity of nature is nowhere better demonstrated by the fact that, when
exposed to the same atmosphere, bread becomes hard while crackers become soft.
Each chip mounts in wirewrap socket. Wire wrap makes inter-chip connections other than Vdd and ground. Most chips have pads for smt pull up or pull down resistors and by pass cap. Wire wrap is performed on bottom of board. six pin headers, next to the chips are used to carry wires from and to the board.
This is my most complex through hole board, to date. It was made using cheap laminator, Expresspcb software, pulsar.gs transfer paper and green film, and two ounces of etchant and a sponge.
By the way, I only drill holes as needed. This works if I add new functions working from the center out.
This is intended to give an idea of what you can produce with a lo-tech, low cost approach.
I've made other smt only boards with this method, but not this complex.
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Luke
The perversity of nature is nowhere better demonstrated by the fact that, when
exposed to the same atmosphere, bread becomes hard while crackers become soft.
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Luke
The perversity of nature is nowhere better demonstrated by the fact that, when
exposed to the same atmosphere, bread becomes hard while crackers become soft.
I'm using a GBC 9 inch laminator I bought at Staples, on sale for $30. WalMart has a Duck brand laminator for $24. It might work. I used 10 passes on this last board, just to make certain good toner transfer took place. The board should be too hot to hold when its finished.
Note that these cheap laminators might limit you to .032 thick board. The board above is .032, that's why it has five mount points.
Also note it is a single sided board. The red traces are actually for jumpers.
I use the press-n-peal system (www.maplin.co.uk) direct link (http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=17352&criteria=Etching%20Equipment&doy=11m3)
This is a good guide: http://www.semis.demon.co.uk/PCB/PCB.html
I use a standard iron (it does my shirts as well), a laser printer and a clean piece of MDF (quite thick)
My tips:
1) Iron should be ~300C thats somewhere near *** on mine.
2) Clean the PCB very well first with a PCB polishing block. Clean the residue from the polishing block off with damp kitchen towl - ensure you dry the board well!!
3) Use the MDF (must not be laminated etc - bare wood) on the ironing board. Place the pcb and the press-n-peal on the it.
4) Lightly (very) iron the press-n-peal on so it "sticks" to the pcb
5) Place the iron on the board (most of mine completely fit under the iron). Wait ~20 secs for the board to take the heat
6) Rub the board all over with the middle edge of the iron (makes sure of good connection).· Use the weight of the iron, dont need to press much here.
7) Remove the iron and move the PCB board to another section of the MDF. Allow to cool so you can hold it.
8) Very Gently take the corner of the press-n-peal off. If it hasn't stuck - repeat steps 4 onwards above
And whalla - (old) Picture attached of what this achieves! (I've done better since....)
From the picture from hackman above, I would guess your PCB was dirty, or "shop soiled".
James
Post Edited (Javalin) : 3/11/2006 3:19:33 PM GMT
We all want a quick fix so I read this post in the hope that "Print-Iron-Etch" would give acceptable results but the little board I etched last night using Herzog's method seems neater and less hastle than all the posts put up on this forum except the Maplin system. The tracks on this board are 0.01" 0.25mm. Just one break. Mind you, Photo etching also takes some experimentation.
By the way Javilin, that double sided board must have taken some alignment. I am impressed!!!
Kind Regards from Kwa Dukuza (You know you live in a remote area when you town isn't shown on GoogleEarth)
John Bond
Diagonally [noparse][[/noparse]opposite corners] and farest apart are best. These would be based on two registration marks or actual required holes.
It really is not a big deal and really gives you pride in your workmanship.
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"When all think alike, no one is thinking very much.' - Walter Lippmann (1889-1974)
······································································ Warm regards,····· G. Herzog [noparse][[/noparse]·黃鶴 ]·in Taiwan
Post Edited (Kramer) : 3/13/2006 2:45:13 PM GMT
The trick with the double sided is quite simple!!
Cut the press-n-peal to EXACTLY the edges of the board. Cut the PCB board as precisely.
Use a second bit of wood on the MDF with a straight edge (use a G clamp to keep it still), and use it to align a the film & the PCB edges. Takes a bit of practice, but I get it to within 1/2mm these days.
James
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Luke
The perversity of nature is nowhere better demonstrated by the fact that, when
exposed to the same atmosphere, bread becomes hard while crackers become soft.
http://ilocker.bsu.edu/users/zashutters/WORLD_SHARED/tutorial.doc
Kind regards
John Bond