The Launcher looks slick. At least, I would assume it's a model rocketry launcher. [noparse]:)[/noparse]
It looks slick, and in that design, it makes perfect sense to allow the screws for the LCD mounting to be visible from the outside, but I'm trying to make mine NOT visible from the outside.
I want to have a minimal amount of screws on the outside.
I'm trying to build something you (and your wife/significant other that is VERY picky about his/her house) would allow inside the house on the wall. I have played around with all kinds of idea's, and right now I've got another idea that I'm toying with, and I'll post results when I get to finding some results to post.
So far I can get everything but the hidden "boss"'s. And I don't want to invest in a large batch of 10,000 enclosures, made to my spec's.
We'll see how things go.
The biggest reason I started this thread was because of the lack of ready made solutions. Nothing seems to have just a simple bolt in solution. [noparse]:([/noparse]
I know, I know, I'm a picky bastard.
Knight.
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How did you do the labeling on that sheet of aluminum?
Knight.
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For anyone else interested, I was able to find a case that CLAIMS to be very LCD usable, however the pictures look like a case that I already have that I purchased from Digikey, and it's certainly not designed for a LCD. The link is below:
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reference the lettering. I used to use a leroy drafting lettering set and letter directly on aluminum (sp) with india drafting ink then cover with a art suppy product called fixatif.
another thought. If those cases are pvc, how about making a mount the would glue inside with pvc joint adhesive, used to join two pices of pvc pipe together. Glue in the mount made to release the lcd's with screws on the inside.
·· I know what you were looking for...My message was directed to John in the point of countless cases out there while all the while trying to find what you were looking for.· If you read back through you will see, I know exactly what you're looking for just because I've been there myself.· And so far, everyone that has said they have a case ready-made for LCDs still doesn't have mounting posts to mount it to!·
·· Now, in defense of these companies I do see one inherent problem with the posts.· Even though most LCDs have the same mounting hole placements for a given size, then distance the LCD board is from the panel varies, especially among differnt models of the same LCD, say with different backlights.· I once got every configuration of 4X20 LCD from a particular manufacturer.· This was 6 LCDs, and of those, 4 of them had different heights of the panel from the board.· The non-backlit model was the thinnest, followed by the EL-Backlit version.· Next highest was the LED Backlit one and the tallest was the CCFL Backlit version, which was the thickest panel I have seen yet.· But an easy way to overcome this would be to provide mounts for the thinnest panel and then add spacers for anything thicker.· Guess nobody has thought of that yet.
·· Oh, and that wasn't a model rocket launcher...LOL· That panel actually belonged to a prototype bed for an Alarm System I designed around the BS2 back in 2001.· I needed something I could get at easily and kill power if the alarm wouldn't shut off.·· Nice try though!
▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔ Chris Savage Parallax Tech Support csavage@parallax.com
I know what you were looking for...My message was directed to John in the point of countless cases out there while all the while trying to find what you were looking for. If you read back through you will see, I know exactly what you're looking for just because I've been there myself. And so far, everyone that has said they have a case ready-made for LCDs still doesn't have mounting posts to mount it to!
Now, in defense of these companies I do see one inherent problem with the posts. Even though most LCDs have the same mounting hole placements for a given size, then distance the LCD board is from the panel varies, especially among differnt models of the same LCD, say with different backlights. I once got every configuration of 4X20 LCD from a particular manufacturer. This was 6 LCDs, and of those, 4 of them had different heights of the panel from the board. The non-backlit model was the thinnest, followed by the EL-Backlit version. Next highest was the LED Backlit one and the tallest was the CCFL Backlit version, which was the thickest panel I have seen yet. But an easy way to overcome this would be to provide mounts for the thinnest panel and then add spacers for anything thicker. Guess nobody has thought of that yet.
Oh, and that wasn't a model rocket launcher...LOL That panel actually belonged to a prototype bed for an Alarm System I designed around the BS2 back in 2001. I needed something I could get at easily and kill power if the alarm wouldn't shut off. Nice try though!
It looks like a model rocketry launcher......
I know you know what I'm lookin for. [noparse]:)[/noparse]
Earlier, I posted that I might have a solution, didn't work. I tried taking an aluminum stock bar and glueing on a screw head onto it, this would be the back of the panel, however it didn't work. All the types of glue were too easily pulled off, and it didn't matter how "scratched" the surface was, it just couldn't grab it. I probably tried around 30-45 different glues, everything from 5 minute epoxy, to 60 mintue epoxy, wood glues (yeah, I know.... I was desparate), Gorilla glue (polyurethane), JB Weld glue. Just about anything I could think of. If it was a steel panel I'd pull out the welder and weld the post on.
I do know of a option that would work, but I can't get ahold of the fasteners. You can make a "blind hole" in the AL, then "press" it in with a huge amount of force (something like 8,000 lbs). The front of the sheet would be still pristine, yet you would have a "boss". The screws that would press into this are called either, "Conceald head studs", or "self clinching fasteners". Their head is not really a head but a star looking thing, and this head gets inserted into the AL with force, the pullout force is something like 200 lbs, so that would be sufficient. [noparse];)[/noparse]
I didn't know that all of the mounting holes were the same, I assumed everyone had their own size's and own holes. In light of that, I might be more adversed to creating a box and selling it, I didn't want to do that because of the specific nature of having to have the precise mounting holes, etc.
Chris, You still failed to mention how you did the labeling. [noparse]:)[/noparse]
Spence, I think at the moment, I'm going with an Aluminum front, and I can't seem to find ANY form of glue that will hold a steel screw onto an aluminum front.
Knight.
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knightofoldcode said...(trimmed)
It looks like a model rocketry launcher......
I do know of a option that would work, but I can't get ahold of the fasteners. You can make a "blind hole" in the AL, then "press" it in with a huge amount of force (something like 8,000 lbs). The front of the sheet would be still pristine, yet you would have a "boss". The screws that would press into this are called either, "Conceald head studs", or "self clinching fasteners". Their head is not really a head but a star looking thing, and this head gets inserted into the AL with force, the pullout force is something like 200 lbs, so that would be sufficient. [noparse];)[/noparse]
Chris, You still failed to mention how you did the labeling. [noparse]:)[/noparse]
Knight,
·· As for your first point...I guess you're right, it does look like a·model rocket launcher.· We'll pretend that it is if it will make you happy!·
·· Second point...Aren't those called PEM Studs and PEM nuts?· I've seen quite a few products, including the Hex Crawler that uses them in certain spots (It's Aluminum too).
·· Third point...You're right!· I forgot!· I used rub-on lettering...Once the metal has been cut, brushed and polished, I rub on the letters and then clear-coat the surface using acrylic.·· Works on painted surfaces too.· As long as you clear-coat it seals the lettering in and adds a nice glossy finish.
▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔ Chris Savage Parallax Tech Support csavage@parallax.com
As for your first point...I guess you're right, it does look like a model rocket launcher. We'll pretend that it is if it will make you happy!
Second point...Aren't those called PEM Studs and PEM nuts? I've seen quite a few products, including the Hex Crawler that uses them in certain spots (It's Aluminum too).
Third point...You're right! I forgot! I used rub-on lettering...Once the metal has been cut, brushed and polished, I rub on the letters and then clear-coat the surface using acrylic. Works on painted surfaces too. As long as you clear-coat it seals the lettering in and adds a nice glossy finish.
lmao, of course it'd make me happy, then I'd be right.... wait, nevermind.
I don't know, I've only seen them called what I mentioned, doing a google on PEM studs and nuts might get me better results on finding someone that doesn't want me to buy 10,000 of them at a time. The minute they ask for you to submit a quote before they even give you a rough idea of price or minimums, I'm gone.
Interesting, I've toyed with the Pulsar system of transfering toner to the surface, then sealing, and it seems to work great. My front panels will be engraved though, and they (my manufactoring company) will fill in with dye's. So for this project, I won't need to play with that stuff. I was interested in your method, it looks really professional.
Knight.
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I've been in the circuit assembly business about 5 years and have always called them PEM nuts and PEM studs - though I'm sure Knight is using the technically correct term for products from www.pemnet.com/
Many of their products don't require 8,000 pounds of force. I've pressed many pressed in many PEM nuts and studs using a table top Arbor press that you can buy for $30-$50
Interesting, I've toyed with the Pulsar system of transfering toner to the surface, then sealing, and it seems to work great. My front panels will be engraved though, and they (my manufactoring company) will fill in with dye's. So for this project, I won't need to play with that stuff. I was interested in your method, it looks really professional.
I don't know about professional...That picture isn't very big, so you probably don't notice how some of them are crooked!·· But it's what I've always done.
▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔ Chris Savage Parallax Tech Support csavage@parallax.com
Chris Savage (Parallax) said...
I don't know about professional...That picture isn't very big, so you probably don't notice how some of them are crooked! But it's what I've always done.
I just wasn't going to comment on the crooked ones. [noparse];)[/noparse]
Knight.
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One of my favorite adhesives for steel-to-aluminum is Click-Bond CB200 acrylic adhesive.· It comes in small 2-part squeeze packs for $1.00 each.· Just Google Click Bond.
Use proper ventilation.· The stuff really smells toxic.
·· The clear-coat I use is simply clear acrylic enamel from Wal-Mart or a hardware store where you'd buy spray paint.· If you're adept at the rub-on lettering (Which I am not), you can get extremely professional looking results.· Simply spraying on the clear-coat seals it in and makes it look like part of the metal.· When I used to design and built prototypes using these enclosures I had a partner who was really good with the lettering.· Of course, he always drew pencil lines and stuff on there, then tediously removed those after the letters were done.· Perhaps I was just too lazy to go through that?
▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔ Chris Savage Parallax Tech Support csavage@parallax.com
Regarding mounting of LCD's, the PEM (stud or nut) is the way to go. We use thousands of them, including threaded stand-offs, and weld-on types. Those use a capacitor discharge spot welder, and adhere without the use of any hole.
For the hobbyist, the "thu-hole" types can be readily pressed into aluminum (steel not as well) in small quantities by using just a simple bench vise as a press. As long as the work is carefully done, all pieces ligned up square, and using a flat steel plate as an "anvil" against each vice jaw to eliminate the jaw ribbing, one can get very professional results. The "reach" of the vise of course needs to be large enough to accommodate the desired spacing, and it's best to press in the center of the jaws to counteract any pressure imbalance.
Regarding mounting of LCD's, the PEM (stud or nut) is the way to go. We use thousands of them, including threaded stand-offs, and weld-on types. Those use a capacitor discharge spot welder, and adhere without the use of any hole.
For the hobbyist, the "thu-hole" types can be readily pressed into aluminum (steel not as well) in small quantities by using just a simple bench vise as a press. As long as the work is carefully done, all pieces ligned up square, and using a flat steel plate as an "anvil" against each vice jaw to eliminate the jaw ribbing, one can get very professional results. The "reach" of the vise of course needs to be large enough to accommodate the desired spacing, and it's best to press in the center of the jaws to counteract any pressure imbalance.
Cheers,
Peter (pjv)
PJV,
They look like some really slick fasteners, but everyone I can find that will sell them to me, wants me to buy 10,000 of them at a time! For a initial investment of $400! Yeah, it's a lifetime supply, but still!
Do you know of anyone else that might sell them to me for at least as low as 1,000 at a time? I could probably bring myself to buy 1,000 at a time.
Also, can't the style that are used for blind holes, be intserted with a hammer and a anvil? (Using the proper tool that fits around the stud)
Knight.
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Comments
The Launcher looks slick. At least, I would assume it's a model rocketry launcher. [noparse]:)[/noparse]
It looks slick, and in that design, it makes perfect sense to allow the screws for the LCD mounting to be visible from the outside, but I'm trying to make mine NOT visible from the outside.
I want to have a minimal amount of screws on the outside.
I'm trying to build something you (and your wife/significant other that is VERY picky about his/her house) would allow inside the house on the wall. I have played around with all kinds of idea's, and right now I've got another idea that I'm toying with, and I'll post results when I get to finding some results to post.
So far I can get everything but the hidden "boss"'s. And I don't want to invest in a large batch of 10,000 enclosures, made to my spec's.
We'll see how things go.
The biggest reason I started this thread was because of the lack of ready made solutions. Nothing seems to have just a simple bolt in solution. [noparse]:([/noparse]
I know, I know, I'm a picky bastard.
Knight.
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How did you do the labeling on that sheet of aluminum?
Knight.
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www.basicmicro.com/Product.aspx?productID=90&CategoryID=16
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reference the lettering. I used to use a leroy drafting lettering set and letter directly on aluminum (sp) with india drafting ink then cover with a art suppy product called fixatif.
73
spence
k4kep
another thought. If those cases are pvc, how about making a mount the would glue inside with pvc joint adhesive, used to join two pices of pvc pipe together. Glue in the mount made to release the lcd's with screws on the inside.
73
spence
k4kep
·· I know what you were looking for...My message was directed to John in the point of countless cases out there while all the while trying to find what you were looking for.· If you read back through you will see, I know exactly what you're looking for just because I've been there myself.· And so far, everyone that has said they have a case ready-made for LCDs still doesn't have mounting posts to mount it to!·
·· Now, in defense of these companies I do see one inherent problem with the posts.· Even though most LCDs have the same mounting hole placements for a given size, then distance the LCD board is from the panel varies, especially among differnt models of the same LCD, say with different backlights.· I once got every configuration of 4X20 LCD from a particular manufacturer.· This was 6 LCDs, and of those, 4 of them had different heights of the panel from the board.· The non-backlit model was the thinnest, followed by the EL-Backlit version.· Next highest was the LED Backlit one and the tallest was the CCFL Backlit version, which was the thickest panel I have seen yet.· But an easy way to overcome this would be to provide mounts for the thinnest panel and then add spacers for anything thicker.· Guess nobody has thought of that yet.
·· Oh, and that wasn't a model rocket launcher...LOL· That panel actually belonged to a prototype bed for an Alarm System I designed around the BS2 back in 2001.· I needed something I could get at easily and kill power if the alarm wouldn't shut off.·
▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
Chris Savage
Parallax Tech Support
csavage@parallax.com
It looks like a model rocketry launcher......
I know you know what I'm lookin for. [noparse]:)[/noparse]
Earlier, I posted that I might have a solution, didn't work. I tried taking an aluminum stock bar and glueing on a screw head onto it, this would be the back of the panel, however it didn't work. All the types of glue were too easily pulled off, and it didn't matter how "scratched" the surface was, it just couldn't grab it. I probably tried around 30-45 different glues, everything from 5 minute epoxy, to 60 mintue epoxy, wood glues (yeah, I know.... I was desparate), Gorilla glue (polyurethane), JB Weld glue. Just about anything I could think of. If it was a steel panel I'd pull out the welder and weld the post on.
I do know of a option that would work, but I can't get ahold of the fasteners. You can make a "blind hole" in the AL, then "press" it in with a huge amount of force (something like 8,000 lbs). The front of the sheet would be still pristine, yet you would have a "boss". The screws that would press into this are called either, "Conceald head studs", or "self clinching fasteners". Their head is not really a head but a star looking thing, and this head gets inserted into the AL with force, the pullout force is something like 200 lbs, so that would be sufficient. [noparse];)[/noparse]
I didn't know that all of the mounting holes were the same, I assumed everyone had their own size's and own holes. In light of that, I might be more adversed to creating a box and selling it, I didn't want to do that because of the specific nature of having to have the precise mounting holes, etc.
Chris, You still failed to mention how you did the labeling. [noparse]:)[/noparse]
Spence, I think at the moment, I'm going with an Aluminum front, and I can't seem to find ANY form of glue that will hold a steel screw onto an aluminum front.
Knight.
▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
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This message transmitted with 100% recycled electrons.
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Gravity doesn't exist. The Earth sucks.
-=-=-=-=-=-
Make a man a fire, and he will be warm for the night.
Light the man on fire, and he will be warm for the rest of his life.
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=--=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
·· As for your first point...I guess you're right, it does look like a·model rocket launcher.· We'll pretend that it is if it will make you happy!·
·· Second point...Aren't those called PEM Studs and PEM nuts?· I've seen quite a few products, including the Hex Crawler that uses them in certain spots (It's Aluminum too).
·· Third point...You're right!· I forgot!· I used rub-on lettering...Once the metal has been cut, brushed and polished, I rub on the letters and then clear-coat the surface using acrylic.·
▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
Chris Savage
Parallax Tech Support
csavage@parallax.com
lmao, of course it'd make me happy, then I'd be right.... wait, nevermind.
I don't know, I've only seen them called what I mentioned, doing a google on PEM studs and nuts might get me better results on finding someone that doesn't want me to buy 10,000 of them at a time. The minute they ask for you to submit a quote before they even give you a rough idea of price or minimums, I'm gone.
Interesting, I've toyed with the Pulsar system of transfering toner to the surface, then sealing, and it seems to work great. My front panels will be engraved though, and they (my manufactoring company) will fill in with dye's. So for this project, I won't need to play with that stuff. I was interested in your method, it looks really professional.
Knight.
▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=--=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
This message transmitted with 100% recycled electrons.
-=-=-=-=-=-
Gravity doesn't exist. The Earth sucks.
-=-=-=-=-=-
Make a man a fire, and he will be warm for the night.
Light the man on fire, and he will be warm for the rest of his life.
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=--=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
Many of their products don't require 8,000 pounds of force. I've pressed many pressed in many PEM nuts and studs using a table top Arbor press that you can buy for $30-$50
▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
Chris Savage
Parallax Tech Support
csavage@parallax.com
I just wasn't going to comment on the crooked ones. [noparse];)[/noparse]
Knight.
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This message transmitted with 100% recycled electrons.
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Gravity doesn't exist. The Earth sucks.
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Make a man a fire, and he will be warm for the night.
Light the man on fire, and he will be warm for the rest of his life.
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=--=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
One of my favorite adhesives for steel-to-aluminum is Click-Bond CB200 acrylic adhesive.· It comes in small 2-part squeeze packs for $1.00 each.· Just Google Click Bond.
Use proper ventilation.· The stuff really smells toxic.
I've also had good success with Goop.
Chris I.
·· The clear-coat I use is simply clear acrylic enamel from Wal-Mart or a hardware store where you'd buy spray paint.· If you're adept at the rub-on lettering (Which I am not), you can get extremely professional looking results.· Simply spraying on the clear-coat seals it in and makes it look like part of the metal.· When I used to design and built prototypes using these enclosures I had a partner who was really good with the lettering.· Of course, he always drew pencil lines and stuff on there, then tediously removed those after the letters were done.· Perhaps I was just too lazy to go through that?
▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
Chris Savage
Parallax Tech Support
csavage@parallax.com
Regarding mounting of LCD's, the PEM (stud or nut) is the way to go. We use thousands of them, including threaded stand-offs, and weld-on types. Those use a capacitor discharge spot welder, and adhere without the use of any hole.
For the hobbyist, the "thu-hole" types can be readily pressed into aluminum (steel not as well) in small quantities by using just a simple bench vise as a press. As long as the work is carefully done, all pieces ligned up square, and using a flat steel plate as an "anvil" against each vice jaw to eliminate the jaw ribbing, one can get very professional results. The "reach" of the vise of course needs to be large enough to accommodate the desired spacing, and it's best to press in the center of the jaws to counteract any pressure imbalance.
Cheers,
Peter (pjv)
PJV,
They look like some really slick fasteners, but everyone I can find that will sell them to me, wants me to buy 10,000 of them at a time! For a initial investment of $400! Yeah, it's a lifetime supply, but still!
Do you know of anyone else that might sell them to me for at least as low as 1,000 at a time? I could probably bring myself to buy 1,000 at a time.
Also, can't the style that are used for blind holes, be intserted with a hammer and a anvil? (Using the proper tool that fits around the stud)
Knight.
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This message transmitted with 100% recycled electrons.
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Gravity doesn't exist. The Earth sucks.
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Make a man a fire, and he will be warm for the night.
Light the man on fire, and he will be warm for the rest of his life.
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McMaster-Carr has a wide assortment of PEM nuts.· Low quantities.
Chris I.