Simple metal fab
One thing I am doing with the Hexcrawler project is bringing power switches and some charging jacks out to a small panel I plan to mount on the crawler.
My outdoor workshop is still in a bit of disarray as far as any kind of serious metal fabrication, and while this wouldn't be too difficult (I envision a small metal plate, with a bend allow me to mount it...holes drilled for switches and jacks..), it's easier for me right now to see if I can find someplace that will do a single peice for a reasonable price.
I know I have seen Servo and Nuts/Volts with ads for these kinds of services, but haven't looked to deeply into either magazine.
Hoping someone can point me to someone who they've already dealt with and had good results.
My outdoor workshop is still in a bit of disarray as far as any kind of serious metal fabrication, and while this wouldn't be too difficult (I envision a small metal plate, with a bend allow me to mount it...holes drilled for switches and jacks..), it's easier for me right now to see if I can find someplace that will do a single peice for a reasonable price.
I know I have seen Servo and Nuts/Volts with ads for these kinds of services, but haven't looked to deeply into either magazine.
Hoping someone can point me to someone who they've already dealt with and had good results.
Comments
Take a look in an auto parts store (aka red front store) for an under-dash mounted accessory switch panel. You may have to mount it upside dwn, but I don't see that as any particular challange. Usually they come with 1, 2, 3, 4 or 6 openings for ordinary "bat handled" switches (aka "appliance switches"). Shouldn't cost more than a few bucks.
Regards,
Bruce Bates
If it is as simple as you describe it - a right angle bracket with some different size holes drilled in it - then I can do it for you with a DXF/DWG file. You can e-mail it to me at kgracey@parallax.com. We have mills, drills, shear, brake at Parallax.
Ken Gracey
Parallax, Inc.
kelvin
http://www.emachineshop.com/
Also, take a look at the Virtual Machine Shop web site - Google for it.
And, you might try aluminum rather than steel. In addition to being 'lightweight', it is much softer [noparse][[/noparse]thus easier] which allows hand work.
There is a reason I put the quotes around lightweight, aluminum actually weighs more per cubic foot that concrete. It is the tensile strength that eliminates the need for a lot of it and makes it so useful.
By the way, having done construction accounting in the State of California, the State Industrial Accident Insurance, the Union Dues, and all the rest is of the payroll taxes, benefits, and insurance are where your costs climb sky high.· Machine shops are high accident rate environments and California is suffering from too many rules and regulations.· Even if Parallax wants to get into providing such services, I suspect they would have to do it elsewhere·and 'drop ship'.
Ken just happens to·be a very generous, hands-on businessman.·
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"When all think alike, no one is thinking very much.' - Walter Lippmann (1889-1974)
······································································ Warm regards,····· G. Herzog [noparse][[/noparse]·黃鶴 ]·in Taiwan
Post Edited (Kramer) : 10/22/2005 3:14:32 PM GMT
kelvin
maybe^not likely <= 0
If your going to go into robotics, it might be a good idea (and cheaper) to invest in a little "workshop" of your own:
Cordless drill (variable speed, easy to use) $30 - look for good brands like B & D
Table clamp $10-a MUST for holding stuff, useful for bending too
Drill bit set $5-for a decent one, skip on those $.99 sets at the dollar store
mini-hack saw $3
metal file (set) $3-you MUST file edges and holes after filing
hammer + nail- come on, you should have these...
You should also have, of course a ruler, a good screw driver, pliers. A carpenter's square is also helpful (I think thats what its called).
These tools are ALL you need to work with the aluminum you can find from Home Depot or Lowes (usually between 1/16" and 1/8") and screws/washers/nuts. To drill aluminum, tap a dent with a nail and hammer first, so when you drill it, the drill bit will be guided in on the right spot. Always clamp the piece your working with. File all cut edges and drilled holes.
Its surprising what can be done with such simple tools and materials and a lot of imagination. Now add some lexan ($4 a sheet for paper size), spray paint, and back lighting LEDs for a cool clear/protective/backlit twist to your robot. Of course, if you're building a combat robot, you might want to seek construction methods other than these, althought the only difference is that you are using heavier duty materials. Check out
www.geocities.com/robotbuilding/tank/
for a robot-in-progress I'm making using these contruction methods and tools (and a javelin stamp).
Post Edited (bulkhead) : 10/23/2005 5:38:58 AM GMT
Curious if..
you have had a bad experience with emachineshop..?
have the time and tools to avoid having to have a third party do it?
other..??
As noted above...the workshop isn't in the shape it needs to be for me to create something like what I need...with some upcoming time off..I hope to change that situation...but for now, it is something I need to "send out"...
Bulkhead..thanks for the comments also..would love to look at your bot, but your link doesn't work...
kelvin
www.eastwoodco.com/shopping/product/detailmain.jsp?itemID=1566&itemType=PRODUCT&iMainCat=1406&iSubCat=1408&iProductID=1566
Looks like it would be good for most hobby work. Not bad price, would probably cost more to make one yourself.
kelvin
The economics of technology is what attracts us to it. Since not everyone can understand and afford it, we try to use our brains to build equity and get rich.
But at some point the simple economic production fact of 'economies of scale' begins to enter the picture.
Proto-types require you to go to a lot of auctions and buy yourself a shop or to depend on 'proto-type services' If you don't like what you see on the web, try the Yellow Pages, as any big city has a few. Sometimes you have to travel a bit [noparse][[/noparse]in San Francisco, it is best to go to Berkeley or Oakand], but they are around and enjoy doing a good job.
These shops can also solve a lot of material problems. Often metal is not necessary and you can do a lot more, a lot faster on a milling machine in polyethlene or other plastics.
Also, don't rule out brass. While heavier than aluminum, it is in somecases a good compromise between steel and the softer grades of pure aluminum [noparse][[/noparse]there are higher strength air-craft alloys]. The Vitural Machine Shop explores the properties of materials when machined. Alot of high strength alloys are very difficult to work. Often epoxy is a good alternative to welding or threading.
Also, don't rule out pipe and conduit. A lot can be done with a hydralic bender to build excellent lightweight structures. Newer welding technology will allow you to easily weld thin material into a high strength joint.
Go wood. Masonite and marine plywood [noparse][[/noparse]no voids in the core] are excellent proto-type material as they allow you to visualize not only the finished product, but the real problems of assembly.
Casting and drilling plastic can work well for small hubs.
As you can see a machineist is a special type of person that moves between many kinds of materials and processes to get the best fit of availablity, cost, duriblity, and resources.
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"When all think alike, no one is thinking very much.' - Walter Lippmann (1889-1974)
······································································ Warm regards,····· G. Herzog [noparse][[/noparse]·黃鶴 ]·in Taiwan
Although I've never used one, and its use is very gauge limited (12 gauge aluminum as I remember) you may still want to do a search for "Bendito" on the Internet. Physical size was limited as well, as would be expected of a small brake.
Regards,
Bruce Bates
http://www.ares-server.com/Ares/Ares.asp?MerchantID=RET01229&Action=Catalog&Type=Product&ID=82817
(you may have to paste that back together).
They (http://www.micromark.com is the home page) also haver a couple other small breaks and other metal working tools. You can also check other "Model Railroad" or "Modeling" supply houses.
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John R.
8 + 8 = 10
www.engineersedge.com/sheet_metal_design.shtml
kelvin