Problem Using Pulsar TTS System

hcwong

I do not have good·luck using the Pulsar TTS paper and Green TRF film despite so many success stories I have read from this forum.

I am using EagleCad to do·my layout drawing. I bought some TTS paper and Green TRF Film from Digikey. I am using a Canon MF5650 Laser Printer set at 600 DPI to print the circuit onto the TTS paper.

The problem I·had is that it is very difficult to iron the print·from TTS paper onto the blank PCB. I had cleaned the PCB surface with 3M Scorchbrite as instructed·in the Pulsar guide·before ironing on the print. I need to put on very high heat on the iron (clothes iron) and press very hard to get the print over. Most of the time, some of the tracks will not stick.·I had moved the iron around the PCB during ironing so that I get even heat and pressure on the paper/PCB but still no luck.

The same goes to the Green TRF film. I had turned down the temperature of the iron a bit before ironing but I get smearing of the Green·stuff out of the tracks.

I had bought a laminator, which is not the brand recommended by Pulsar to do the transfer but I found that the temperature of the laminator is not high enough to do the transfer for both TTS and Green TRF.·I did not get the Pulsar laminator because the laminator is only good for 32 mil·PCB while most·of the PCB available in the market is 64 mil type and is cheap. The 32 mil PCB from Pulsar·is at cut throat price. I can get 20 pcs 64 mil PCB for the price I pay for 1 piece of 32 mil PCB from Pulsar.

Could this problem be from the laser printer toner? Anyone can give me some pointers?

Bean

I use the laminator from Pulsar and it works great. One thing I do is "pre-heat" the copper board before the actual lamination. I run just the PC board through the laminator then give it a minute to cool a little, then put the TTS paper on top and run it through again. This keeps the copper from "sucking-up" all the heat.

Bean.

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·

bobledoux

Clean the board with 220 or 400 wet or dry paper under water. Dry and clean with acetone and a cotton swab. A clean surface is critical.

Run the board through the laminator multiple times to get good adhesion. I use 10 passes.

The green film sticks only to toner. It won't stick to itself or bare copper. If it doesn't all stick on the first pass, try a fresh film a second try.

Cleanliness and adequate heat are critical.

hcwong

Bean,
How many passes did you run·for each of the following :
1) TTS Paper
2) Green TRF
Which brand and model of laser printer are you using?
Thanks.

Bean (Hitt Consulting) said...
I use the laminator from Pulsar and it works great. One thing I do is "pre-heat" the copper board before the actual lamination. I run just the PC board through the laminator then give it a minute to cool a little, then put the TTS paper on top and run it through again. This keeps the copper from "sucking-up" all the heat.

Bean.

hcwong

I have open-up my laminator and I found that there is a thermostat inside preset to 157 deg C. Any idea what is the thermostat setting of Pulsar laminator?

Which brand and model of laser printer are you using? I suspect part of my problem is because of the printer toner.


Post Edited (hcwong) : 9/21/2005 9:18:40 PM GMT

Bean

I use two passes for the toner (after the initial "warm-up" pass) and 1 pass for the film. If the film gets a wrinkle I use a new piece and try again.

I uses scotchbrite and alchol to clean the copper board.

I have an HP 1012 printer.

Bean.

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"I'm a man, but I can change, if I have to, I guess"
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·

bobledoux

Some people have had poor adhesion using refilled printer toner cartridges. I have a cheap Samsung printer and it works fine.

Here is a group that deals with PCB topics.

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs/

hcwong

The thing is I am using an original toner cartridge from Canon.

bobledoux said...
Some people have had poor adhesion using refilled printer toner cartridges. I have a cheap Samsung printer and it works fine.

Here is a group that deals with PCB topics.

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs/

Oliver H. Bailey

There are two differences the laminator that Pulsar supports and others.First, the laminator can be modified to handle the thickness of circit boards without damaging the feed mechanism. Second, the temperature sensor is fixed at a higher temperaure and the sensor is situated such that it maintains very close temperture control. I don't think Pulsar sells the laminator anymore but it is made by General Binding (GBC). The key is to clean the copper so water beads on it and don't touch any part of the area you will be transfering the toner to or it won't stick under any conditions. The TTS method works great but does require some practice before getting a good board every time. I've used it with Eagle CAD for almost two years without a problem but it did take some getting use too. There are also other cleaning agents that will smooth the pores of the copper making it easier to use.

Oliver Bailey