BS2-X10 Problems

MaxiOmega

I just recieved my X10 powerline interface, and appliance module. I have tried your simple code out of the manual, and have even tried changing pins, house code, and unit number, and still can't get it to respond.

Here is the code I am using,

' {$STAMP BS2}
' {$PBASIC 2.5}

Mpin PIN 2
Zpin PIN 3
HouseB CON 0
Unit1· CON 0
turnoff:
XOUT Mpin, Zpin, [noparse][[/noparse]HouseB\Unit1]
XOUT Mpin, Zpin, [noparse][[/noparse]HouseB\UNITOFF]

Is there a problem with my unit, or is there something else I am over looking?

Chris Savage

Hello,

·· One thing to keep in mind is that the device you're controlling often has to be on the same circuit, or at least on the same pole of your wiring to respond to commands.· That's one thing to check.· Also, try making changes one at a time.· Don't change too many things at once because it's hard to track down problems that way.· Good luck.


▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
Chris Savage
Parallax Tech Support
csavage@parallax.com

Bruce Bates

MaxiOmega -

The default mode for any X-10 module, when it's plugged in or installed, is OFF. You are then proceeding to turn a module which is initialized in the OFF mode, to OFF in your program: XOUT Mpin, Zpin, [noparse][[/noparse]HouseB\UNITOFF] . What would you like to have happen?

If you would like to turn it ON, to check to see if it's working, then you need to command it ON, like so: XOUT Mpin, Zpin, [noparse][[/noparse]HouseB\UNITON] . Perhaps a more thorough test for a module with the address of House Code B and Unit 1 (make sure your module is so set)might be as follows:

DEBUG "Begin Test"
XOUT Mpin, Zpin, [noparse][[/noparse]HouseB\Unit1] 'Establish which HOUSE\UNIT to address [noparse][[/noparse]B:1]
XOUT Mpin, Zpin, [noparse][[/noparse]HouseB\UNITON] 'Turn the unit ON

DEBUG "Unit ON"
Pause 200 'Wait a moment

' No need to change HOUSE\UNIT since it hasn't changed, default is last used.

XOUT Mpin, Zpin, [noparse][[/noparse]HouseB\UNITOFF] 'Turn it back OFF
DEBUG "Unit OFF"
DEBUG "Test Complete"
END

Regards,

Bruce Bates

Hulk

Does anybody know how to make a circuit that links one leg of the 110 circuit to the other?· I'm guessing it could be done with a suitable cap, but i'd like to copy someone's successful circuit if possible.

Thanks in advance!



▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔


Basic stamp Newbie

Bruce Bates

Hulk -

With plugin-phase couplers/signal bridges less than $20.00 US today it makes no sense to take on the liability of a potential fire, explosion, or knocking out the power to an entire neighborhood yourself. Besides that, the units you buy are also UL Approved. I've done just that above, many years ago, and the power company wasn't very happy about having their power transformer knocked off the telephone pole!

Here is one you might consider: http://www.smarthome.com/4816a2.html

Regards,

Bruce Bates

MaxiOmega

Your programing suggestions have not helped. I am checking into noise on the line as recomended by X10. The unit is currently on, not in a default state of off. That is why the program was written to only turn it off. I am even plugged into the same receptical to eliminate the phase problem. I even tried different BS2's to insure there is no problem with my stamp. There seems to be no comunication between interface, and module. Noise on the line, if to loud, could prevent module for being able to hear the signal. Once this is corrected, I'll deal with the phase issue.


On the dryer module, I like the ease of just plugging it in. Here is what X10.com recomends:

X10 FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS (FAQ)

1. Why do some modules work in some outlets and not in others?

If you are having difficulty controlling a particular module from a particular location, but can control this module from other locations, or if the ability to control a particular module is intermittent, it is possible that the module in question and your controller are on opposite phases of your house wiring.

Most houses are fed from a 220 volt service which is then split into two phases of 110 volts each in the circuit breaker panel. The X10 signals, which are transmitted onto the house wiring (onto one phase), will normally couple across to the other phase through the breaker panel, pole transformer etc. If however, due to loading, you do not have enough coupling, you may couple the signal from one phase to the other by having a qualified electrician install a 0.1 microfarad, 240V AC or 600V DC capacitor across your 220 volt line from hot to hot, i.e. across any 220 volt breaker. This will couple the signal from one phase to the other. The capacitor should be rated for "across the line connection" such as part number P4603 available from the Digi-Key catalog. This part can be purchased from Digi-Key by calling 1-800-344-4539.

Alternatively, you may be able to solve the problem simply by moving the controller to another outlet. If the controller is plugged into the same outlet as a TV its output may be reduced. Moving the controller away from the TV may also solve the problem.


The cap is only $1.44, less expensive, more labor intensive.

Bruce Bates

MaxiOmega -

You're not required to follow my advice or any one else on this forum. Just make sure you follow ALL of the indicated requirements that X-10 recommends, INCLUDING having the PROPER capacitor installed by a "qualified electrician". THEN come back and tell us all that "The cap is only $1.44, less expensive, more labor intensive"! Around these parts, it costs $75.00 just to have a licensed electrician walk in the door, and that's CHEAP insurance!

Regards,

Bruce Bates

allanlane5

Once upon a time, I did wire in a capacitor across the two 'hot' lines in my switch panel, and it did couple X-10 signals for a while. Then there was a loud 'Bang!' one day, and white smoke drifted out of the panel. It turns out you MUST have a capacitor rated for 250 volts AC, 600 volts DC, AND that lightning or power surges can destroy it.

I didn't buy the Digikey part, though, and that might have worked better. Be very careful if you do this yourself, it is not fun to get yourself across 220 volts. Oh, and if you DO manage to burn your house down because you did it yourself, your fire insurance company will not be amused. Or pay for it.

Hulk

OK guys. I'm Adequately scared. I'll order the $19.95 production part. Thanks for the replies!

▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔


Basic stamp Newbie

Vern Graner

MaxiOmega said...

I just recieved my X10 powerline interface, and appliance module. I have tried your simple code out of the manual, and have even tried changing pins, house code, and unit number, and still can't get it to respond.

Ok, stupid question, but have you tried to control the X-10 module without using the stamp, but instead using an X-10 controller like one of these?:

RadioShack Home Automation Mini Controller Catalog #: 61-3001

This would allow you to verify that 1) the x-10 lamp module works and 2) the power line is clean and coupled enough to allow x-10 to work. Next I would look very carefully to make sure the X-10 power line interface is correctly connected to the stamp and that the module # and house code have been correctly set. I have gotten a stamp to control an x-10 module and it shouldn't be too hard. If you are getting no response, and have never actually gotten it to work, it could be the power line interface is bad? Just tryin' to help...



Vern

▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔

Vern Graner CNE/CNA/SSE    | "If the network is down, then you're
Senior Systems Engineer    | obviously incompetent so why are we
Texas Information Services | paying you? Of course,if the network
http://www.txis.com        | is up, then we obviously don't need
Austin Office 512 328-8947 | you, so why are we paying you?" ©VLG

Post Edited (Vern) : 7/18/2005 6:51:39 PM GMT

MaxiOmega

Vern, Thanks for the advice. The mini controller works great, now if I can just get the stamp to interface with the module. A BS2 should be able to control it right? What I am working on is an alarm clock with unlimited alarms, and adjustable snooze time, along with connecting it to my coffee pot, and the thermostat, radio, and lights, so it will start my coffee 15 minutes before alarm time, amd start adjusting the room temp 30 minutes before alarm time, regaurdless of what alarm time is on alarm #1, and the possibilities of using it with later alarms. Light and radio times to be determined later.

Forrest

Click here www.parallax.com/detail.asp?product_id=70013 and download the January 2000 column - interfacing an X10 Firecracker. This project will let you control X10 modules wirelessly with a Basic Stamp.