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Protoboard Toner Transfer Question — Parallax Forums

Protoboard Toner Transfer Question

bobledouxbobledoux Posts: 187
edited 2005-06-02 04:27 in General Discussion
I'm working on an altimeter that employs a 6 pin SOP 16-bit A/D converter (ADS1110). I need to make up a board to help maintain the 16 bits of resoution.

I'm looking at the iron-on toner transfer techniques. I've found two products. Press-N-Peel is a transfer film that costs about $12 for five sheets.

Pulsar sells a similar system, but they also have a second green film that seals the toner transfer for better etching without pits.

Has anyone compared the two systems?

Comments

  • Paul BakerPaul Baker Posts: 6,351
    edited 2005-05-31 15:10
    If you are still in your prototype stage get an SSOP to dip adapter, there are availible here for $2 (8 pin SSOP, just leave two pins open) click on "breakout boards" and scroll to the bottom of the page. If your past the prototyping stage, get a professionally done PCB board. The site listed above has boards availible for $2.50/sq in, or you could use another house such as www.expresspcb.com
  • bobledouxbobledoux Posts: 187
    edited 2005-05-31 21:08
    I use ExpressPCB, but this project has a number of "unoptimized" elements I need to work out before I'm willing to get three boards made, all containing the same mistakes.

    Sparkfun's breakout boards and Surfboards are good when mixing through hole and surface mount components. For my application I think better results will depend on minimal trace lengths and careful layout. Through hole may not be the way to go. I'm trying to stay with surface mount as much as possible.

    My experience has been that its not difficult to get a circuit to work, but it takes lots more effort to get a circuit to work well.
  • bobledouxbobledoux Posts: 187
    edited 2005-06-01 17:40
    The Pulsar Toner Transfer System has some interesting characteristics. It starts with an iron-on toner, just like Press-n-Peel. But it has an additional green film that adheres only to the toner. This protects the porous toner from etching damage.

    The real difference in their process is the etching technique. By using the green film, ferric chloride etchant, soaked into a sponge is rubbed over the board, removing the excess copper. They say the process typically takes a minute or so. The hand rubbing is said to be superior to bubbling, heated etching tanks because the sponge removes the exhausted etchant that is in immediate contact with the copper surface.

    They have additional film products for silk screen and silver plate of the copper surfaces.

    http://www.pulsar.gs/1_PCB/a_Pages/3_Direct_Etch/3b_The_15min_PCB/The_15min_PCB.html

    Any comments?
  • PLJackPLJack Posts: 398
    edited 2005-06-02 04:27
    bobledoux said...
    Any comments?

    That process looks very nice.

    This image is impressive.
    www.pulsar.gs/1_PCB/a_Pages/3_Direct_Etch/3c_How_Fine_A_Line/Copper_Silver_Green.jpg

    ▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
    Jack
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