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Solderless prototyping system — Parallax Forums

Solderless prototyping system

SK8 4 USK8 4 U Posts: 39
edited 2005-05-04 14:14 in General Discussion
·Hi All....

Yet another question...I just put together a solderless breadboard prototyping system using a nice anodised aluminum chassis and 4 Jamco solderless breadboard units (they attach using double sided sticky tape...ewe).·· I also will be·installing some push button and toggle switches, LED indicators, etc, etc.· I am looking for some solderless pins that I can mount on the chasis next to the various switches and such that I can put the stripped end of a wire into, just like with the jamco units.·They are insulated from the chasis, so they will not short out. ·I have seen these in the past, but cannot find them anywhere.·

Any ideals would be most helpful.·

All the best,

73
Joe

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Cats are the creator's method of demonstrating to mankind that man is not the supreme being.

Comments

  • Chris SavageChris Savage Parallax Engineering Posts: 14,406
    edited 2005-04-29 01:23
    Hello,

    ·· They are called, "Binding Posts."· Perhaps this will help you find them.· I have purchased several from Jameco in Black and Red, so I know they carry them.



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    Chris Savage
    Parallax Tech Support
    csavage@parallax.com
  • SK8 4 USK8 4 U Posts: 39
    edited 2005-04-29 05:26
    Hi Chris...

    I looked at Jameco's web site and didn't see anything that looked like what I remember seeing. I used to use a digital trainer back in college that had these tiny little terminal posts that connected to the switches and·LEDs that were mounted in the chasis. In order to use the switch or LED, you would take a section of 22 wire with about 1/3 inch stripped insulation and it fit perfectly into a hole in the middle of the terminal. The terminal itself was about 1/8 of an inch in diameter and maybe 1/2 inch tall. It didn't use any screw mechanism to secure the wire, only friction. They mounted through the chasis with a small nut, and had an insulating sleeve and spacers to keep it isolated from the chasis. they were real cool, but you had to be carefull not to shove a larger diameter resistor lead into them, because that ruined the contact for 22 gauge wire.

    Thanks for the suggestion!

    All the best,

    Joe

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    Cats are the creator's method of demonstrating to mankind that man is not the supreme being.

    Post Edited (Codecat) : 4/29/2005 6:00:38 AM GMT
  • Chris SavageChris Savage Parallax Engineering Posts: 14,406
    edited 2005-04-29 14:22
    Joe,

    ·· When you mentioned solderless breadboards and Jameco, I thought you were talking about the binding posts that they have at the top of most of their solderless breadboards.· I have 2 of them, and have purchased extra posts.·

    ·· As for the ones you are talking about, I'm not sure I know what you mean, but I have a vague recollection of a college digital trainer having little posts very much like binding posts, but you pushed down on them to open the hole, and when you released, the hole would close via spring tension.· And those I haven't seen since then.· Ah well, Good luck!

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    Chris Savage
    Parallax Tech Support
    csavage@parallax.com
  • Paul BakerPaul Baker Posts: 6,351
    edited 2005-04-29 14:42
    Are you referring to press-fit connectors like this?

    Chris, is this what you were thinking of?
  • Chris SavageChris Savage Parallax Engineering Posts: 14,406
    edited 2005-04-29 16:45
    Paul,

    ·· If you'll excuse the crude drawing I just made in MS PAINT, this is as close as I can get to what I am talking about.· And these are nice connectors too!· Much better than the spring ones we used to use, and that are prevalent on the Radio Shack xxx-in-1 kits.· When the button (top) is pushed down, the hole in the shaft lines up with the hole in the side of the connector.· You put the wire through, and release the top, and a spring pushes up and secures the wire.




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    Chris Savage
    Parallax Tech Support
    csavage@parallax.com
    Wire Connector.JPG
    512 x 384 - 8K
  • Paul BakerPaul Baker Posts: 6,351
    edited 2005-04-29 17:24
    If you consider that to be a crude drawing, Id like to see what you consider is a well drawn figure [noparse]:)[/noparse] The connector you describe is similar mechanically to drawstring clasps used on parkas and other bad-weather clothing, only having an electrical connection as well.
  • Chris SavageChris Savage Parallax Engineering Posts: 14,406
    edited 2005-04-29 17:33
    Paul,

    ·· HOLY COW!· You're right!· I never even thought of that!· But these boards had a header at the top of them using that configuration.· I myself prefer the binding posts, but must admit to not knowing what the OP wanted or was looking for.· I hope someone else can help him.· Take care!

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    Chris Savage
    Parallax Tech Support
    csavage@parallax.com
  • David BDavid B Posts: 592
    edited 2005-04-29 20:59
    I have an old National Radio Institute solderless breadboard that is equipped with what seems exactly like what you're describing.

    Around the perimeter of the central solderless connector grid, there are about a dozen of the same type socket as the solderless breadboard itself, except that each socket has only about 4 holes, they accept 22 g. wire, and they electrically connect through their bottom to external sources - gnd, +5, TTL IO, etc; any external periferal.

    When you're wiring a solderless circuit, you stick hookup wires into these sockets for power and IO, exactly like you stick hookup wire into the breadboard itself. These aren't what I'd call "pins", but they sound like what you're talking about.

    Is this what you have in mind?

    I searched around Jameco a bit but didn't see any of these specifically for sale. You could always use a DIP socket, I suppose, even cutting it into small sections for individual wiring connection points.
  • SteveWSteveW Posts: 246
    edited 2005-04-29 21:33
    If you go to
    http://www.tycoelectronics.com/
    and search (in the part code finder, not the general search) for
    796463-2
    you'll get a nice 2-way (although available in other widths) 0.2" pitch connector, which you can insert & remove wires from by pressing a button. It doesn't look like the earlier picture, but it's functionally the same. Good for 10 amps, and good to use. I use them all over the place for prototypes - Farnell (Newark / InOne in the US) sell them - they're robust, easy to use, and not expensive.

    Steve
  • Chris SavageChris Savage Parallax Engineering Posts: 14,406
    edited 2005-04-30 21:23
    Paul Baker said...(trimmed)
    If you consider that to be a crude drawing, Id like to see what you consider is a well drawn figure [noparse]:)[/noparse]
    Paul,

    ·· Yeah, it was kinda crude.· In retrospect I remember that Radio Shack used a similar (In function) connector on one of their kits.· It was plastic and square.· Anyway, on the subject of schematics, I remember trying to find some decent symbols when I was creating a schematic the other day and couldn't find any.· Each time I go through this.· So last night I created a table of symbols I hope will help others.· These were created in MS Paint.· If you open 2 copies of it, you can COPY/PASTE the symbols from one window into the other and rotate/flip them to get what you want.· They're free so don't complain!· tongue.gif

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    Chris Savage
    Parallax Tech Support
    csavage@parallax.com
    zip
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    Circuit Symbols 1.zip
    30K
  • SK8 4 USK8 4 U Posts: 39
    edited 2005-05-01 03:58
    You could always use a DIP socket, I suppose, even cutting it into small sections for individual wiring connection points.

    Hi David....

    I think that this is exactly what I will do...Now I have to figure out how I will mount the DIP socket through the aluminum chasis and attach it in place...my first thought is to nibble out little slots for the pins and used epoxy glue to attach them with.

    Thanks for the ideal...BTW, I have finalised the design... three solderless breadboard sections, four N.O. push buttons, four N.C. push bottons, four SBST toggle switches, ground post for ground wrist strap, red and black binding post for 5 volt Vss and Vdd, and a USB BOE mounted on standoff things. I find that device with a plain old BS2 green stamp (no pun intended) to be the most handy thing for all kinds of control design! Any thoughts on this desing would be most welcom. Also, any ideals on a good 5 volt powersupply design would be helpfull...I am really only doing digital things.

    All the best, and thanks again for the suggestions and help...I know I ask a lot of questions!

    BTW...did any one catch Johnny Weir skate in corpus??? OMG, it brought a tear to the eye!!!

    Joe

    ▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔▔
    Cats are the creator's method of demonstrating to mankind that man is not the supreme being.
  • Tom WalkerTom Walker Posts: 509
    edited 2005-05-04 14:14
    Another idea is to use speaker "spring clips" such as those used on the backs of home audio equipment. They should give you the same functionality and should be easy to find.

    Good luck!

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    Truly Understand the Fundamentals and the Path will be so much easier...
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