Large current 12V power supply.
Boris
Posts: 81
For one of my projects, i need a 40A, 12v DC power supply. Voltage does not need to be precise or smooth. So I can basically take a 120v->12v Transformer, and then use a bridge rectifier and a capacitor. Does anybody know where i can get a cheap 120->12 transformer, that coud handle 40A?
Thank you,
Boris.
Thank you,
Boris.
Comments
Cheap would be to find one pulled from something at a surplus store.
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Beau Schwabe - Mask Designer III
National Semiconductor Corporation
(Communication Interface Division)
500 Pinnacle Court, Suite 525
Mail Stop GA1
Norcross,GA 30071
Bob
Your taking a raw transformer would require a transformer that puts out more than 12V AC in order to recify it to 12V DC, AC->DC transformation always ends up with a DC voltage less than the AC voltage out of the secondary windings. And be sure to place a proper fuse or GFI circuit and proper heat dissipation measures. I have a SLA brick charger rated at 30A and charging my 50AH cell from a·dead state makes the unit quite toasty.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=42881&item=3872545210&rd=1
what im·looking for for $5.95+ shipping.
What exactly does Enclosed Transformer 120V - 12V 50VA (New) mean?
Is 50 the current in amps???
Now here's the caviat, there are different ways of expressing the voltage of an AC signal: Peak, Peak to Peak (P-P), Average, and Root Mean Square (RMS aka Effective). Heres a link that explains them: http://www.bcae1.com/voltages.htm· V(RMS) = .707xV(Peak), V(Avg) = .636xV(Peak). Performing AC->DC arrives at V(Avg) in ideal conversion, but all electrical systems have a loss (mainly through heat dissapation). It has been a decade since I took power theory, but if I remember AC is ussually expressed in RMS. So if the voltage from the wall is expressed in RMS and the transformer is 10:1 the voltage out is 12V(RMS). Accounting for losses conversion of the 12V(RMS) could get you in the ballpark of 12V DC, depending on the quality of the transformer, rectifier bridge and the capacitors.
A regulator takes some DC voltage in and produces a lower DC voltage which is clean and stable and very close to the specified Vout. But there is a required headroom needed for this conversion to take place which is typically on the order of 1-3V (with the exception of Low Dropout type, but LDO is more common on low current type regulators). This means to get a good clean 12V DC with lots of current, your going to have to feed it with 15V DC or more. In this type of application the regulator will need a good heatsink to operate properly. You can also place more than one regulator in parallel to get higher currents (you could take 2 12V/20Amp regulators and get 12V/40Amp).
Hope this answers some of your questions,
Paul
I still suggest getting an off the shelf part to do this unless you really can't afford to do so. And if you do build your own, I would test it first for an extended period of time using power resistors equivalent to the resistance of your load which are capable of handling the current and measure voltage, current and temperature of the parts, if your parts get too hot, depending on thier design they can get into a runaway thermal condition causing more and more current to flow until something burns, this is why a fuse is important, if the fuse blows you know you designed it wrong.
I found this Transformer:
"Transformer
Not exactly a center-tap, but close -- this chunky chassis-mount transformer accepts 120 VAC and puts out 12 VAC and 6 VAC simultaneously, or 18 VAC if output is tied together. (Ignore the label that lists the AC voltages as DC.) Maximum current at 12V is 10A, and at 6V is 4A. Measures 2-5/8" x 2-3/6" x 1-9/16" with (8) 5/16" leads. (4) mounting holes.
·34080 120 V TRANSFORMER $2.00 / EACH· "
at
http://www.sciplus.com/category.cfm?category=138
can 5-6 of these be connected in parallel to provide the required amperage?