Does the BS2p require a different Serial Interface for Programing than other BS
LoopyByteloose
Posts: 12,537
Hi,
I tried to program my BS2p-24 in a board that is supposed to be compatible with all BS products, but it cannot be recognized.
I turned to the schematics and low and behold, the BS2p shows two 0.1uF capicitors configured with one·from DTR to pin 3 and one between pin 3 and pin 4.
The older BS-2 carrier board is all straight runs into the BasicStamp.
So, am I correct in assuming that the BS24p requires a different interface to be programible?
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G. Herzog in Taiwan
I tried to program my BS2p-24 in a board that is supposed to be compatible with all BS products, but it cannot be recognized.
I turned to the schematics and low and behold, the BS2p shows two 0.1uF capicitors configured with one·from DTR to pin 3 and one between pin 3 and pin 4.
The older BS-2 carrier board is all straight runs into the BasicStamp.
So, am I correct in assuming that the BS24p requires a different interface to be programible?
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G. Herzog in Taiwan
Comments
The DTR is used to reset the BASIC Stamp so that it can be programmed. The BASIC Stamp IDE handles the DTR line properly so that there are no trouble after the program is downloaded, but if you connect the programming port to a terminal program (like HyperTerminal) then that isn't the case and there will be problems. The caps in the DTR - ATN line eliminate these problems.
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Jon Williams
Applications Engineer, Parallax
Dallas Office
Any pins get bent?· But the other stamp back in and try the board again (broken wire).
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Steve
http://members.rogers.com/steve.brady
http://www.geocities.com/paulsopenstage
"Inside each and every one of us is our one, true authentic swing. Something we was born with. Something that's ours and ours alone. Something that can't be learned... something that's got to be remembered."
Yes, I put the Stamp in the right way, but after all the trouble I've had with my Digtal Mutimeter [noparse][[/noparse]blown fuse causing the ampmeter to not respond & a weak battery causing the voltage indicator to falsely climb] I imagine that you think I am a bit unobservant.
I am getting better at double checking and testing continuity and power supply polarity BEFORE powering up.
Also, I am trying to not run to this forum for every little problem.
And, I did try to search to see if the question was already answered before posting a New Topic.
Nonetheless, it seems that we need a Frequently Asked Questons space to give you guys a break from monotony.
ANYWAY....
After thinking it over for a day, I decided that I would use two 9pin serial connectors (one female and one male) to make a device that I can insert in-line.
I can insert one cap between Pins #3 and have the other cap jump from the correct side of Pin#3 to Pin #4.
Thus, I avoid 'board surgery' and have the ablility to revert to the original board configuration if need be.
I do have the BS2p development board with the proper configuration, but the problem is that it has my BS2p-40 and an LCD hooked up to it. With all the bells and whistles on the board, I have tried to set up a compicated program to measure temperature and now I don't want to break it down to use for progaming the BS2p-24.
Also, my 24 pin generic board has a 24 pin ZIF socket available. So I can eventually swap out projects with the greatest of ease.
AND...
I assume Steve must be a golfer. I truly wonder why this metaphysical swing must be remebered if it is so seemingly instictual? [noparse][[/noparse]born with]
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G. Herzog in Taiwan
You'll note this when you use such items like the SRF ultrasonics...(I think it's these), but they require a cap be installed across their power and ground and state it should be as close to the unit as possible.
Did you try the original stamp in this board?!· Are you running off of a battery (on the board)?
I'm a huge golfing fan although I'm not the greatest player, I do enjoy playing.· One of those games where you play yourself and not another team/person.· You're right about trying to remember what's so instinctive; it's more about remembering that you have this one great swing.· Remembering the feel of it; of connecting to the ball and watching it rocket off the tee.·
Ever try to break down your swing and explain it....can't do it.· It's like an opera singer describing how they're able to hit those perfect pitch notes (not to mention annoy the masses
now you got me going!! haha· A swing that's instinctive doesn't mean you can pick up a club and knock the skin off a ball....you still have to find that swing....but I'll tell ya, once you get it, you'll always remember it, even if you can't reproduce it!
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Steve
http://members.rogers.com/steve.brady
http://www.geocities.com/paulsopenstage
"Inside each and every one of us is our one, true authentic swing. Something we was born with. Something that's ours and ours alone. Something that can't be learned... something that's got to be remembered."
The good news is that everything on my bench is now up to snuff for programing.· Up until now, I have been jumping back and forth between hardware and software.· I am ready for some intensive software development.
I got up this morning and wired a couple of DB-9s to insert the capacitors as I mentioned.·
I am aware that adding length to the leads is an invitation for noise, but I figured it was worth a try.
Then it set up the board without the new device for one last try.
Low and behold, it said my BS2p-24 was a V1.4 and required new software to be downloaded.
I am not sure that I saw that yesterday or simply got another less specific·refusal that sent me into the schematics.
Anyway,
With the new software, there is no need to insert the device.
AND, I cannot seem to program with the device inserted!·
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Regarding your suggestion to use a BS2 [noparse][[/noparse]plain vanilla]...
I don't have one except for my Toddler [noparse][[/noparse]that one is embedded into the board with its own interface].· I started with Parallax in about March of this year and it made little sense to acquire less features unless I really have a dedicated application.
Regarding power...· NEWCOMERS - PLEASE NOTE.
I·very conservative because of my own muddlemindedness and Taiwan's funky power distribution.
So I generally run everything from a rechargible battery - especially when programming.· Either a NiCad 9volt or an R/C Litium 7.2volt.· Besides, the more lengthy·wires to tangle up, the more likely you are going to end up with your project on the floor.
The old Yahoo site had tons and tons of e-mails from people that trusted the voltage specified on lable on the wall wart and found themselves burning up their projects.
I have a lot of orphaned 9volt wall warts, but they all read over 12volts on my meter without load and even with load they read in the high 11volts.· So I am only using them with a 7805 which can handle the high end volt (upwards of 24volts or so).·
I am actual thinking of putting together a 7809 'preregulator' to buffer the various wall warts into one standard output·and then I can build using low drop out regulators that don't have the high end regulation ability(their highend is about 9volts, but can tolerate a temporary 'double input' of about 12volts).· The low drop out regulators are are great for conserving batteries in a micropower project and have polarity protection built in.
Regarding golf...
I guess I will have to take up Zen archery to get into the swing that you mean.· Still, at 57 I can rappel down a 25 meter rock face for fun.· I took my English class to do it, but they all backed out and left me doing three demo runs.· At least it is cheaper than green fees.·
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G. Herzog in Taiwan
Post Edited (Kramer) : 12/24/2004 8:09:46 AM GMT