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OEM module question... — Parallax Forums

OEM module question...

WhelzornWhelzorn Posts: 256
edited 2004-10-21 16:26 in General Discussion
I have 4 OEM module kits, and I have two left to solder (the completed ones work great by the way, I highly recommend the OEM's [noparse];)[/noparse] ) and I was wondering if it would be safe to use the ColdHeat soldering "tool" for this (coldheat.com/) I raise this question because when using the coldheat on other projects, the tool produces a spark sometimes when you first touch the tool to the component/solder pad. I do not think this is a static spark, but that is not the only problem. I also notice that the tools tip temperature goes from 45oF to 900oF in less than 1 second. This seems a bit scary when your soldering the resonator/power supply/transistors onto the board. Anyway, if anyone has a thought on this, I'd love to hear it!

Thank you,

Justin

Comments

  • BeanBean Posts: 8,129
    edited 2004-10-18 23:46
    Do you recommend the coldheat solding iron ?

    Terry
  • dbpagedbpage Posts: 217
    edited 2004-10-19 01:17
    No. It's low voltage and high current. One wrong move, and poof!
  • Jonny555Jonny555 Posts: 46
    edited 2004-10-19 19:59
    The cold heat soldering iron is very usefull for tinning wires but I find that it has stayed in the toolbox for the above mentioned reason. for about 100 bucks it was a waste of money for me. I think I'd rather use my butane minitorch idea.gif
  • WhelzornWhelzorn Posts: 256
    edited 2004-10-19 20:17
    well, I dont know where you payed $100 for it, but I got mine at the shack for $20... Anyway, thank you, and to answer your question as to wheter or not I would reccomend it, I'd have to say probably not. This is because the two "electrodes" on the tip can get coated with rosin and not work at all. Also the material the tip is made of is very fragile and will break if you get a piece of solder stuck in between the electrodes. Also because it uses electric current to work, it ONLY works of both electrodes are touching the contact at once, and as jonny555 said, this is fine for tinning wires, but not so good for detail work.

    Hope my review helped [noparse];)[/noparse]
    -justin
  • Chris SavageChris Savage Parallax Engineering Posts: 14,406
    edited 2004-10-21 16:26
    I guess it boils down to the old saying about the right tool for the job...I have a friend that uses his Soldering Iron Gun for everything...It does have low and high settings, but I have seen him peel the copper rings off boards when desoldering...Oh yeah, he believes in Solder Braid too!

    I have a 25 Watt Iron, and a 40 Watt Iron...I use each where applicable, and I tend to use Silver Solder on the more important connections.· I also have a Soldapult Solder Sucker, and only use braid if absolutely necessary.

    Oh, and so my post isn't entirely off topic, I too am a fan of the OEM Modules over the standard modules, however I know they aren't for everyone.· My main thing is they easily go into projects without have to add anything for a regulator or programming hardware.· I usually mount the DB9 to the side of the case, and inside the SIP header connects to the rest of the circuitry.· And I can always count on Parallax to have them on Sale when I am getting low on them.

    smilewinkgrin.gif

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    Chris Savage

    Knight Designs
    324 West Main Street
    P.O. Box 97
    Montour Falls, NY 14865
    (607) 535-6777

    Business Page:·· http://www.knightdesigns.com
    Personal Page:··· http://www.lightlink.com/dream/chris
    Designs Page:··· http://www.lightlink.com/dream/designs
    ·
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